stocklgt Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Just a quick update, decided to keep the car, it will be a weekend car so - it is still sitting, can't decide if i want a stage 2 or 2 tuff block from IAG. $350 price difference, but don't know if its worth it or not. Decided to go with HKS Equal Length Headers for the build as well. Going to keep everything else the same and see what kind of power i put down before i decide on flex fuel and bigger injectors for E85. I think i'll be happy ultimately with this turbo on meth. Also considering doing some head work so i can rev out the motor a bit more, but not sure if its really worth the extra cost. ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 That $350 is nothing compared to what your total cost will be...do it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 So here is the next question - since ill have the heads off to redeck anyway with new valves and springs...should I install a set of 264 kelfords? I don't want to shift the powerband too much to the right, but I'd love to rev out to 8000. This STi 6 speed with the gearing is killin me - I think ill be happier being able to rev it out, but im concerned about losing more power down low. I think if I were to do cams I wouldnt go any bigger than the 264 - 272 isn't too streetable from what I hear. No porting, just cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 You could go with GSC 272s but it's a lot of extra cost. That's what I have in my car and I had the 264s before that. The mid range with both is still very good. I have an EFR7163 which is close to the same as your 3076 -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Since im redecking the heads and doing valves and springs anyway, I figure why not spend an extra ~$1000 to rev out to 8. I think the 3076 would hold power up there. Total cost will be around $1900 for the heads, not terrible. Not porting, silly under 600whp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 Going with IAG for heads and block Kelford 264s with stock valves, upgraded springs and retainers. multi angle valve job, hot tank and redeck, Stage 2 tuff block. They are going to ship it back to me as a long block. Getting the heads pulled this week, should be back in business by mid-september. Cant wait to rev to 8 grand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 just went with ID1300s bc Im worried ill be at max idc with this 30R. Also bought an AP ELH and the Snow Performance Meth kit. Ready for this motor to go in already. 450 seem like a feasible # to shoot for on 93? Might be a little optimistic. Also went with 1300s incase i decide to go E85 in the near future. Build List so far: ID1300s top-feed Aeromotive FPR IAG Fuel Lines and Rails IAG AOS P&L Motorsports 44mm EWG Uppipe and Dumptube Tial 44mm EWG IAG Overflow Tank Aisin TBWP Killer B Oil Pickup STI Intake Manifold NGK One Step Colder Plugs Tial Q 50mm BOV TGV Deletes Grimmspeed ECBS Hallman Manual Boost Controller Perrin 3" Inlet Short Ram Intake DW 65c fuel pump AMR FMIC Custom Piping IAG Stage 2 TUFF Block B25 heads with Kelford 264s valves and retainers, stock port Invidia Catless DP Stromung Exhaust Agency Power ELH Snow Performance Boost Cooler Meth Kit STi 6 speed swap with DCCD, Spec B axles and R180 diff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Thinking about sending the turbo back to ATP for them to upgrade it to the GEN2 CHRA. Any opinions, or just keep the GEN1 GTX3076R and see how it does? Was really looking into the BCP X500+ as well. Really trying to stay stock location for now, rotated is a waste of $$ to me if im only shooting for 450-500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 Motor will be here next week! Stage 2 Tuff Block, Heads redecked, new valves springs and Kelford 264s. Hoping for 450 on pump and meth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 That will open the eye's on a lot of Mustang owners... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Unfortunately my buddies Phase 1 Stang he got from Lebanon Ford would still smoke this car...but a stock or bolt-on 5.0 will prob have trouble keeping up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Better to have a good-looking slow car than an ugly fast car... ...not that 400+ is slow. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 15, 2017 Moderators Share Posted September 15, 2017 Better to have a good-looking slow car than an ugly fast car... ...not that 400+ is slow. That's pretty subjective--a lot of people would argue the opposite. Better to prioritize what you enjoy: speed, looks, or a combination. It all comes at a price, both time and materials. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 true My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Agreed, and I'm of the opinion the 17' Mustang looks pretty damn good too. But I have my heart set on an SS 1LE, i've been shopping for them for a long time and I'm ready to pull the trigger next spring. I'll prob end up selling the Legacy for a cheap winter beater and get the 1LE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Longblock has arrived! just need to dress it and drop it in! Went with a new ELH and 1300cc injectors. considering flex fuel but have the meth for now. can't wait to get it back on the road for break in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I guess this weekend it goes in ? got to sell it to save for the SS 1LE....trader.... How will the SS be in the winter time... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbrawley Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 SS 1LE, as in Camaro? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Yep 1LE Camaro So I am now super confused. The IAG break-in procedure states drive at varying rpm and engine braking for first 50, then change the oil. But Cam break-in states to run the motor at around 2K RPM for 20-30 minutes, shut it off change oil then follow engine break-in procedure. By keeping RPM steady for 20-30 minutes, isn't that exactly what you shouldn't be doing to seat the rings properly? I am so confused, and heard so many different things about breaking in motors, from babying it for 1000 miles to running it easy for 50 miles and then beating the shit out of it with a dyno tune. IAG states at 800-1000 miles it will be ready for high boost and a tune, which i will most probably follow as they built my motor, but what about the cams? HELP! Was going to call IAG but want to see if anyone has advice on here 1st. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Yep 1LE Camaro So I am now super confused. The IAG break-in procedure states drive at varying rpm and engine braking for first 50, then change the oil. But Cam break-in states to run the motor at around 2K RPM for 20-30 minutes, shut it off change oil then follow engine break-in procedure. By keeping RPM steady for 20-30 minutes, isn't that exactly what you shouldn't be doing to seat the rings properly? What they want for the cam break-in is lots of oil pressure, which means higher RPMs. In other words, they want you to keep the RPM at least 2K for the first 30 minutes. You can vary the engine speed, but you should keep the revs up. Go for a nice gentle 30 minute drive on a deserted highway and vary your speed, downshift on hills to get some engine braking. Don't lug the engine, keep the RPMs up. Come back home and change the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 Gotcha. I figured i'd vary rpm from 2k to 3k for the first 20 minutes or so while its at the shop and others can keep an eye for any leaks, then change out the oil and go for a drive for 50 or so miles. The issue is i'm in NYC, which means no deserted anything lol. Ill cruise out to suffolk on LI after the first startup and see if I can't find some less populated area to do this. I may even tow it out east so I can break it in properly. A buddy of mine did his build and followed the cam break-in guide, then drove about 20 miles and got right on the dyno for a tune and beat the piss out of it after changing the oil 2x. Car is still solid 20K miles later. While I am not an advocate of this, it seems like different strokes for different folks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 ...The issue is i'm in NYC, which means no deserted anything lol... Good point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 "Cam break-in states to run the motor at around 2K RPM for 20-30 minutes, shut it off change oil then follow engine break-in procedure. " That's been the normal rebuilt engine process for decades. Most follow that process. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stocklgt Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 Motor is finally in! Doing some last minute things, then time to fire it up! Needed a new clutch too -_- old owner installed it in backwards!? Project just crested the $9000 mark. What a disaster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 9k! Id like to know what you put in it! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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