Perrin steering damper lockdown on 3.6R

[XT-sub]

Finally got mine installed,took 15 min didn’t have to loosen shaft bolts ...

... Only difference is steering is a tad stiffer ...

It shouldn’t be any stiffer at all, mine isn’t. It sounds like there may now be side pressure on either the steering column or the rack. Doing the installation by undoing the bolts then re-tightening them following the correct procedure re-aligns everything (see my earlier posts).

 

See below one part of the caution from the 2015 Legacy/Outback service manual part that covers the steering universal joint:

 

“Tighten the bolts on the gearbox side first, and then the column shaft side."

 

“Be sure to follow the tightening order and tightening torque of the universal joint assembly steering to avoid the steering effort from becoming heavy. After confirming that the steering column position is in the neutral position, tighten the universal joint assembly steering.

 

Always place the tilt lever to the lock position after the steering column is adjusted.”

Edited March 6, 2018 by XT-sub

[GTEASER]

There are 2 specific reasons I can think of: 1) So that the bolt that's left in there is flush with the lockdown itself, preventing it from catching on anything that may or may not be in there while the rack itself turns. 2) Since the long bolt is being used to pull the two halves and is under considerable stress, it's prone to be damaged. For instance, I ended up bending mine during installation. So, replacing that with an unused bolt that sits flush is definitely what you'll want.

 

Besides, 90% of the work is squeezing the two halves of the lockdown together with the long bolt. Removing the long bolt and installing the short bolt is easy.

Well said.

 

Follow the instructions gents. Use the little bolt and loosen/retighten the shaft bolts as recommended by the experts. (ie Perrin and the Subaru engineers)

[PATS4LIFE]

It shouldn’t be any stiffer at all, mine isn’t. It sounds like there may now be side pressure on either the steering column or the rack. Doing the installation by undoing the bolts then re-tightening them following the correct procedure re-aligns everything (see my earlier posts).

 

See below one part of the caution from the 2015 Legacy/Outback service manual part that covers the steering universal joint:

 

“Tighten the bolts on the gearbox side first, and then the column shaft side."

 

“Be sure to follow the tightening order and tightening torque of the universal joint assembly steering to avoid the steering effort from becoming heavy. After confirming that the steering column position is in the neutral position, tighten the universal joint assembly steering.

 

Always place the tilt lever to the lock position after the steering column is adjusted.”

 

Drove the car around for 15min and steering is normal now,and my front tires were a little low on psi,but not enough to trigger TPMS light,so everything is good,,

[fullah]

Yea when I said heavier in my last post I put it in quotes. Steering doesn't require any extra effort like something is binding or not moving freely. I don't know about you guys but I feel a slight difference in steering feel..due to less movement rather than something binding

[tamtrum]

Drove the car around for 15min and steering is normal now,and my front tires were a little low on psi,but not enough to trigger TPMS light,so everything is good,,

 

Did you do any adjustments to have your steering back to normal or did you not change anything?

[PATS4LIFE]

Did you do any adjustments to have your steering back to normal or did you not change anything?

 

No I didn’t have to do any adjustments,I just added air on all tires cuz it was a little below psi spec,all I did was drive the car for about 10-15min making turns and also took it to a frwy and that’s it..it’s really worth it I’m glad I did this mod you really tell the difference combined with my 20mm RSB.

[fullah]

Has anyone seen any info floating around whether the sti steering knucle will fit on our car? I guess I'm asking since this seems like a bandaid but if the sti part fits then maybe we will get better steering response.

[MrCobbs]

I found a couple of links that show that the STI is about 1-2 inches shorter than the one for our Legacy/Outback and we would need to install the Lock Down.

 

 

This is for a different gen legacy but it's showing some information.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/underdog-motorsports-2015-sti-steering-rack-swap-234351.html

[fullah]

Thanks for the info. I'll have to read thru that entire thread but I'm assuming due to the different length it won't be a bolt on affair? What do you mean install the lock down? I don't see the same design on the sti steering knuckle.

[GTEASER]

Thanks for the info. I'll have to read thru that entire thread but I'm assuming due to the different length it won't be a bolt on affair? What do you mean install the lock down? I don't see the same design on the sti steering knuckle.

Yes, they are different lengths. Short of cutting, extending and re-welding the STi unit, your best bet is to just use the Perrin lockdown.

[PATS4LIFE]

I found a couple of links that show that the STI is about 1-2 inches shorter than the one for our Legacy/Outback and we would need to install the Lock Down.

 

 

This is for a different gen legacy but it's showing some information.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/underdog-motorsports-2015-sti-steering-rack-swap-234351.html

 

Is it possible to switch out the bottom piece out?

[GTEASER]

Is it possible to switch out the bottom piece out?

No. It's welded together and the u-joint is mot serviceable, so it can't be swapped.

 

A 5th Gen owner, FLlegacy welded his damper IIRC. You may try PMing him.

[Pronto]

This is definitely on my to do list. Not exactly sure when I'll order one, but I'll definitely do it this summer.

 

Can someone with the Torque Solutions version confirm if this is the one they installed:http://www.torquesolution.com/Subaru-Steering-Damper-Lockdown-p/ts-su-310.htm

[fullah]

Looking at it it might make sense cutting and welding the legacy bottom to the sti damper. One weld instead of two it you extend the shaft but the real question is is it worth the headache? Is it that much of a difference compared to just the damper insert?

[PATS4LIFE]

This is definitely on my to do list. Not exactly sure when I'll order one, but I'll definitely do it this summer.

 

Can someone with the Torque Solutions version confirm if this is the one they installed:http://www.torquesolution.com/Subaru-Steering-Damper-Lockdown-p/ts-su-310.htm

 

That’s the one I have on mine.

[ammcinnis]

... it might make sense cutting and welding the legacy bottom to the sti damper.

Cutting and welding on a safety-critical component is generally a VERY bad idea. (I say this as someone who has survived an abrupt, total steering system disconnect due to a known [except to me] defect in a 1991 Buick Regal. If my house were located 200 yards further east, in Missouri, the car would have been subject to a mandatory NHTSA recall.)

Edited July 25, 2018 by ammcinnis

[GTEASER]

Welding the damper together is much different than cutting and re-welding the shaft itself. Just welding the damper doesn't compromise the original and existing structure and strength of the part.

[MrCobbs]

Instead of welding, cutting and what not how about we use an older one that doesn't have any defects.

 

I found this one for a '99 Legacy from another forum.

 

34160AC030 is the part number.

 

Is it possible for someone to measure the Legacy Universal steering joint to see is this will fit?

 

 

 

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[UGCspawn]

it,s not just about the OAL. Check the splines and the size of the shafts going in/out.

[Beamercub]

My 2016 Liberty 3.6R has eyesight but has lane departure alert instead of lane departure assist (lane departure assist came in the later model I believe). So I don’t know how this mod would change the feel of lane departure assist feedback through the steering wheel. I don’t like lane departure warning or lane departure assist & have my lane departure warning turned off, but that is just me & I realise some people like that feature.

 

If the 2017 SJ Foz XT has lane departure assist, you could ask Fate on subaruforester.org forum if this mod changed any of the lane departure assist feedback. But I don’t know if the 2017 SJ XT had that option. See here for one of Fate’s posts on the steering dampener lockdown.

 

If you have a look down where the steering column uni-joints are on your car you should be able to tell what the access is like, especially the bottom uni-joint clamp bolt closest to the rack & pinion. That was the most difficult on mine to loosen & re-tighten.

 

Looking at my RHD engine bay & trying to relate it to your LHD engine bay I would guess that the engine bay fuse box could make access a little bit more difficult, but you won’t have to worry about removing the air filter case to throttlebody hose pipe. On my RHD 3.6R the CAT prohibited access from under the vehicle but I don’t know about the LHD 3.6R.

 

Just in case they changed the steering column un-joints between the RHD & LHD Liberty/Legacy (very unlikely IMO), check to make sure you have the required minimum gap of 0.53” (13.35mm) as shown in the last (10th) image at Perrin’s website here. If less than that, it isn’t going to fit.

 

There are a couple of YouTube videos about fitting the dampener lockdown to the current model LHD WRX that may also help.

 

I understand the instructions tell you to but based on where the damper is being installed-personally I didn't see how loosening those bolts would make a difference. The two sides moved very easily into the slot without those bolts being loosened especially after I added some lubricant. FYI I also have the longer bolt still in there because being that I didn't loosen those bolts I didn't want to loctite in the smaller Allen bolt as yet. The shorter bolt would only make a difference for cosmetic purposes imo. I don't see how the shorter bolt would affect the operation of the part.

 

Also even though using the Allen socket and a ratchet would be easier I would say it's best to install by hand with the Allen key. You get a better feel if it's going in the right way and only takes a few more minutes vs. using a ratchet.

 

Awesome post.. I have been on the fence about choosing the perrin or TS lockdown.. I'm going with the TS.. It seems like a better fit.. As no one has had to loosen any bolts to get it in.. I'm not about to mess around with that. The perrin model seems a little bit thicker.. Hopeful this cures my PROBLEM.

[MrCobbs]

I should have updated everyone on this but this ended up damaging my steering rack and a piece on the column. Both were replaced under warranty by my cool dealer after the car kept wandering to the right.

 

It may have been installed incorrectly but please be careful.

 

 

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[GTEASER]

I should have updated everyone on this but this ended up damaging my steering rack and a piece on the column. Both were replaced under warranty by my cool dealer after the car kept wandering to the right.

 

It may have been installed incorrectly but please be careful.

 

 

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Sounds like it was installed incorrectly. Perhaps by not loosening the clamps on the rack/column splines and forcing the lockdown into the damper.

[XT-sub]

Sounds like it was installed incorrectly. Perhaps by not loosening the clamps on the rack/column splines and forcing the lockdown into the damper.

 

Yes, I agree. Even only loosening one of the two uni-joint clamp bolts would almost certainly do that. Unfortunately MrCobbs may never know because someone else did the install.

 

I can’t stress enough how important it is not to take any shortcuts from Perrin’s instructions & the Service Manual’s tightening sequence when installing the dampener lockdown.

[MrCobbs]

It was the Torque Solutions one I had to install since the Perrin one didn’t fit and the installer told me today that they did follow the correct procedure in installing the lockdown tool.

 

I may just look into the solid STI universal joint since the splines and everything match up.

 

 

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[XT-sub]

Ah ok, I didn’t know that, I thought you were using the Perrin one. Did your installer offer any information as to why it damaged the rack or the part on the column?

 

I wonder why the Perrin one didn’t fit. Does anyone know what is different between the Perrin & the Torque Solutions one? For example is the Torque Solutions one a bit thinner than the Perrin one?