MrCobbs Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Not really, just a general, it’s not made for your car. I think since it was soooo difficult to install even when following the installation instructions it may be the tension and strain from it over time may have damaged other parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XT-sub Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 Ok, thanks. Looking under the bonnet of my RHD Liberty 3.6R, I have a lot more hoses & pipes on the left side where your steering column would be compared to the right side where my steering column is, so it wouldn’t have been the easiest place to access on your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 has anyone tried to fit a wrx or sti solid piece instead of trying to fit the perrin stiffener? Granted I have a 4th gen, but used a 2015 sti rack with a sti solid piece and it fit perfectly. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 has anyone tried to fit a wrx or sti solid piece instead of trying to fit the perrin stiffener? Granted I have a 4th gen, but used a 2015 sti rack with a sti solid piece and it fit perfectly. Yeah, that doesn't work on the 5th Gen. Our steering shaft coupler is about 2" longer than the solid ones in any other Subaru. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 I think that it’s worth being careful with this, as welding or cutting important parts can do even more harm than before. Believe me, because I know what I'm talking about. Last fall, I had some problems with the car, which I still can’t explain, but which I managed to solve myself. Fortunately, I found a good guide on the Internet that showed me exactly where the problem was and how to fix it. https://prowelderguide.com/ here you can find many answers to those questions that you have been looking for for more than a month. What a no-content, self-congratulating first post. Very odd. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Yeah, that doesn't work on the 5th Gen. Our steering shaft coupler is about 2" longer than the solid ones in any other Subaru. well that's a bummer. Even the non-usdm versions aren't solid? Scanned the thread, saw the pics, still not grasping that Subaru didn't use a standard part. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 What a no-content, self-congratulating first post. Very odd. You know the "report" button is for, well, you know, reporting spammy posts? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kay2DaA Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 Will this work/fit on 2.5L 6th gen Legacy US?I'm years late on this but it does. I have it installed on mine. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kay2DaA Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 Sounds like it was installed incorrectly. Perhaps by not loosening the clamps on the rack/column splines and forcing the lockdown into the damper.I totally agree. I had mine professionally installed with no problems. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3.6R19NJ Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 i installed it on my 2019 3.6R i noticed a quicker steering response and stiffer steering especially at high speeds https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/perrin-steering-dampener-lockdown-281564.html?t=281564 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aki334 Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 I installed it on my 2017 legacy myself, it did fit perfect. It helps if you lube the sides so they slip in easier. Also to be honest I did not notice any noticeable improvements. The best improvement was solid tower brace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrCobbs Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 has anyone tried to fit a wrx or sti solid piece instead of trying to fit the perrin stiffener? Granted I have a 4th gen, but used a 2015 sti rack with a sti solid piece and it fit perfectly. I did look into this BUT saw the WRX and STI version was a bit short. However I found that the 99 Outback has a solid link that is similar in size and design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 By invasive do you mean any long term detrimental issues caused by fitting this lockdown? If so, I don’t know what long term affect it would have on the rubber dampener due to it now being under more compression, but I don’t think it will make a lot of difference. Without the lockdown the rubber dampener flexes as the steering wheel turns & with it it hardly flexes at all, so is that better for the life of the rubber or worse? You can see the difference in compression between the 2nd image & the last image in the install instruction pdf download here. The WRX STi doesn’t have this rubber dampener but I don’t know what differences there are between the steering column & the rack except for hydraulic assist instead of electric assist. One concern was additional kickback through the steering, but when driving over our goat track roads it didn’t feel like there was any more, but if there was it was only very minor. My main concern was how my better half would cope with the now precise steering on the highway. After she had driven the car for a while I asked the question “would you prefer that I removed the dampener lockdown” & got a quick rather stern “Don’t you take this off, it makes the steering just right – I like it” reply. Some information on the install that may be helpful to anyone fitting this: Keep in mind I fitted this to the RHD version of the USDM LHD Legacy 3.6R so it may be easier to install on the RHD models - I gained more access by removing the air filter case to throttlebody hose pipe. I did the install from the top, the cat on the 3.6R inhibits access from underneath – the service manual actually says to remove the cat to replace the steering uni-joints. The top steering column uni-joint clamp bolt was easy to access & there was plenty of room to fit the dampener lockdown. I found the bottom steering rack uni-joint clamp screw the hardest to undo & re-tighten due to the limited space around that bolt & the way the shape of the uni-joint inhibits fitting a ring spanner to the bolt in the in-line direction. A short socket & small 1/4” drive ratchet wouldn’t fit in the available space so the steering had to turned to just the right position so the spanner & socket could be worked sideways. The engine needed to be running to turn the wheels for bolt access & left/right half turns prior to the uni-joint clamp bolt tightening – a couple of pieces of cardboard under the front wheels helped the wheels to turn on the garage floor. I followed the install instructions exactly except for the following: By applying grease to the two halves’ outer mating surfaces of the lockdown & to the thread of the M6x70mm install screw made fitting the dampener easy. A 3/8” drive M5 hex bit socket with 3/8” to 1/4” adapter & short 1/4” drive ratchet worked much better than the supplied M5 allan key. One half of the dampener caught on the rivet head & started to pull in at an angle when partially fitted, so this required pulling back into line with my fingers so that both sides were pulled in straight with the install screw. I cleaned the grease from the internal threads of the lockdown half with isopropyl alcohol before fitting the shorter M6x60mm screw with the supplied thread locker. The install instructions didn’t mention the order the two uni-joint clamp bolts should be re-tightened. I found the re-tightening order & the adjustment of the steering column tilt position very important. After fitting the dampener lockdown I re-tightened from the two turns undone position the top steering column uni-joint clamp bolt first & the bottom steering rack uni-joint clamp bolt last with the steering wheel/column in my preferred tilt position. This caused a clicking noise in the steering column as the steering wheel was turned to the right when driving forward after a left lock in reverse (two clicks that sounded like it was coming from the blinker cancel mechanism). I found the solution to this in the service manual. The service manual cautions that when the uni-joint clamp bolts are tightened after replacing the uni-joints, the top steering column uni-joint clamp bolt should be tightened last with the steering column tilt adjustment lever locked with the column in the neutral downward tilted position. By undoing then re-tightening the bolts following this procedure I totally eliminated the clicking noise when the steering column was back in my preferred tilt position. So it is very important to follow this tightening procedure as part of the install instead of tightening the top bolt first with the column in the preferred tilt position. I had the same problem with it tilting on the rivet. After multiple attempts the bolt actually bent and stripped. Had to order more bolts for it. Wondering why it didn’t go in. Maybe shaving the rivet channel on the plate will help. Don’t really wanna do that tho. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XT-sub Posted April 28, 2021 Author Share Posted April 28, 2021 ... Maybe shaving the rivet channel on the plate will help. Don’t really wanna do that tho. You shouldn’t have to do that. Don’t force the install screw if the dampener has pulled at an angle after catching on the rivet head. It can take a bit of effort, but pull the dampener back in line with your fingers so both sides are pulled in straight with the install screw. Lubing the install screw threads & the dampener is a must, as is loosening both top & bottom uni-joint bolts (clean any lube from the dampener threads before fitting the final shorter M6x60mm screw). Obviously make sure the screws aren't cross threaded. I hope you have better luck with the new screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ares3985 Posted May 4, 2021 Share Posted May 4, 2021 You shouldn’t have to do that. Don’t force the install screw if the dampener has pulled at an angle after catching on the rivet head. It can take a bit of effort, but pull the dampener back in line with your fingers so both sides are pulled in straight with the install screw. Lubing the install screw threads & the dampener is a must, as is loosening both top & bottom uni-joint bolts (clean any lube from the dampener threads before fitting the final shorter M6x60mm screw). Obviously make sure the screws aren't cross threaded. I hope you have better luck with the new screw. Yeah it went in this time. Still fought me terribly tho. After all that. Not sure if I like it. The 15 STI rack alone was awesome. With lockdown may be too much now. Gonna drive it a few more times before I make a final decision. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XT-sub Posted May 5, 2021 Author Share Posted May 5, 2021 ... The 15 STI rack alone was awesome. ... It would be hard to compete with that. Glad you got it fitted ok - they aren't the easiest to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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