LegacyKid5 Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 I am getting ready to install front and rear brembos on my 05 LGT and have a few clarifications and question. Never swapped brakes before but the process seems pretty straight forward from my research, but I want to make sure I have all my bases covered prior to starting. 1. Given I am removing all the calipers, I'm assuming the system will be always completely flushed out in the process. When it comes to bleeding the system upon installation, should I pick up something like the Might Vac Kit or is a bleeder catch bottle and pumping the peddle with a second person sufficient? 2. Any recommendations for brake fluid on our cars with brembos? 3. I have seen people recommend putting anti seize on the bolts, backs of pads, and the hub between the rotor. Is this all recommended and if so will any anti seize do the trick? 4. Any special tools I will need for the job or may make the job easier? EDIT: A little bit of research points to ATE Super Blue fluid for the brake fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 1) Pedal & second person is sufficient. Once set up, it should only take 5-10 minutes max. There are bleed screws on both the inside and outside of the calipers (not like the sliding legacy calipers), so make sure to bleed both. Make sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry! It's a PITA to bleed - keep the reservoir topped up throughout. 2) How hard are you using the car? ATE Type 200 is a safe, affordable bet for pretty much all uses. 3) Copper anti-seize should be used on the caliper mounting bolts, there are many horror stories of stripped threads from people removing stuck bolts from aluminum calipers. Brake lubricant can be used on the backs of the pads, I wouldn't bother with the hub-rotor surface. Just make sure it's clean when you install the rotors. 4) A flare wrench is advisable for the bleed screws to make sure you don't strip them. New banjo bolt washers (x8) need to be used to make sure you don't leak after, and make sure to follow the surprisingly low torque spec for the banjo bolts. Some people might recommend a brake pad spreader, I've always just used my hands with a paper towel so as not to contaminate the pad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 You can't get ATE superblue anymore in the US. Blue is only the color of coolant or water. ATE type 200 is like the same thing but Amber. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 You can't get ATE superblue anymore in the US. Blue is only the color of coolant or water. ATE type 200 is like the same thing but Amber. Yep, only downside is that you can't see when you've bled through the lines completely (unless your old fluid is dirty). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Just replaced the calipers on both cars, the GF did a great job on the brake pedal. I did make a hole in the top of an old peanut butter jar and stick a hose in it and put the other end of the hose on the bleeder. Yes to anti-seize, I put it on all threads, even lug nuts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyKid5 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share Posted June 20, 2017 1) Pedal & second person is sufficient. Once set up, it should only take 5-10 minutes max. There are bleed screws on both the inside and outside of the calipers (not like the sliding legacy calipers), so make sure to bleed both. Make sure you don't let the master cylinder run dry! It's a PITA to bleed - keep the reservoir topped up throughout. 2) How hard are you using the car? ATE Type 200 is a safe, affordable bet for pretty much all uses. 3) Copper anti-seize should be used on the caliper mounting bolts, there are many horror stories of stripped threads from people removing stuck bolts from aluminum calipers. Brake lubricant can be used on the backs of the pads, I wouldn't bother with the hub-rotor surface. Just make sure it's clean when you install the rotors. 4) A flare wrench is advisable for the bleed screws to make sure you don't strip them. New banjo bolt washers (x8) need to be used to make sure you don't leak after, and make sure to follow the surprisingly low torque spec for the banjo bolts. Some people might recommend a brake pad spreader, I've always just used my hands with a paper towel so as not to contaminate the pad. Thanks for the info, very helpful. The car is the weekend toy primarily, spirited driving here and there. Hoping to venture into some autocross eventually, maybe a track day. So my list of things to get is as follows: 1. ATE type 200 (https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/brake-fluid/ate-106256-ate-type200-brake-fluid-dot-4-1l) 2. Copper Anti Seize (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU) 3. Brake Lube - Any recommended brands? 4. Banjo Bolt washers x8 (If the lines don't include them) 5. Brake pad spreader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Good thread and good information. Thanks everyone. I'm also gearing up to do this myself at some point this summer. Got to get busy. I'm tired of stubbing my toe on car parts in my apartment living room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Thanks for the info, very helpful. The car is the weekend toy primarily, spirited driving here and there. Hoping to venture into some autocross eventually, maybe a track day. So my list of things to get is as follows: 1. ATE type 200 (https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/brake-fluid/ate-106256-ate-type200-brake-fluid-dot-4-1l) 2. Copper Anti Seize (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU) 3. Brake Lube - Any recommended brands? 4. Banjo Bolt washers x8 (If the lines don't include them) 5. Brake pad spreader Looks about right! Do you have new pads? They usually come with pad grease - just dab some on between the contact points between the pad and caliper. Also, the torque spec for the front Brembo caliper mounting bolts is 80 ft/lbs (114 Nm). Rears are 48 ft/lbs (65 Nm). You'll need new front caliper mounting bolts if you don't have them already, they're different than the standard Legacy bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigs Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 If you want super cheap pad deals look on Rock Auto , they have a great selection of pads and rotors for dirt cheap prices. I run the centric premiums on my track car with no issues and power stop track day pads. I would however not suggest those pads for a daily as you want something that dusts way less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyKid5 Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Looks about right! Do you have new pads? They usually come with pad grease - just dab some on between the contact points between the pad and caliper. Also, the torque spec for the front Brembo caliper mounting bolts is 80 ft/lbs (114 Nm). Rears are 48 ft/lbs (65 Nm). You'll need new front caliper mounting bolts if you don't have them already, they're different than the standard Legacy bolts Yup, I have Hawk HPS 5.0's on the way. And thanks for those torque specs, that was next on my list of things to look for. I have the caliper mounting bolts off the original car and if I remember correctly they were in pretty good shape. Another question, the calipers have the old pads in them still. Is it best to put them on the new rotor and replace the pads while it's next to the rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Make sure you have the Brembo specific caliper bolts. Brembos use a different thread pitch than the stock calipers. Part numbers....(08+ STi Brembos, not goldies) Front 901120103 torque 80 ft/lbs (70 ft/lbs if using anti-seize) Rear 901000326 torque 47 ft/lbs (40 ft/lbs if using anti-seize) I always use anti-seize in all the places you mentioned and on the lug nuts. I also use the buddy system and check the fluid level in the m/c often, you don't want it to go dry. Buddy 1: Pumping (5 times) Buddy 1: Holding Buddy 2: Open...Closed repeat. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Yup, I have Hawk HPS 5.0's on the way. And thanks for those torque specs, that was next on my list of things to look for. I have the caliper mounting bolts off the original car and if I remember correctly they were in pretty good shape. Another question, the calipers have the old pads in them still. Is it best to put them on the new rotor and replace the pads while it's next to the rotor? I've heard some good things about those pads, right on. Easiest would probably be to install the new pads in the calipers while they're off the car. Also, use brake cleaner on the rotors before installing to take the oil off (shipped with a thin film to prevent rust). Once everything is installed, find a quiet road and follow the bedding procedure recommended by the pad manufacturer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyKid5 Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 I've heard some good things about those pads, right on. Easiest would probably be to install the new pads in the calipers while they're off the car. Also, use brake cleaner on the rotors before installing to take the oil off (shipped with a thin film to prevent rust). Once everything is installed, find a quiet road and follow the bedding procedure recommended by the pad manufacturer. Yeah, I am really looking forward to the new setup! Thanks for all the input, looking forward to tackling this project once all the parts arrive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 i use this for sliding parts of the brakes (pins, caliper seals, pistons, pad tension clips etc) it looks like green jelly. dont get it on the brake friction surface. https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-4/ Brake cleaner if you dont have any for rotor surfaces to get rid of any remaining grease or oil or brake fluid spills. You can also clean the oil coating off the rotors with degreaser and dish detergent Vinyl tubing for bleading the brake an s hook or some wire so you can hang the calipers off struts while you are removing rotors if your old rotors are rusted to the hubs you may need to thread a bolt in the rotor to pop it off or wack with rubber mallat/dead blow have a container or tray ready for when you undo the old bajno bolt, fluid will start leaking and the old calipers hold alot of fluid. if bolts are rusted badly consider buying new ons dont forget to burnish the brakes and be prepared for them to not fully work until you do a few stops and they start to wear a little. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Be careful bolting the Brembo caliper on, some people have stripped the threads off the caliper (aluminum) while trying to bolt it onto the hub. Also, a cheaper alternative to ATE is valvoline synthetic fluid - its half the price (esp on sale), available everywhere, and you only loose a little bit of wet boiling point (which is what matters on road cars). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 About to do this myself... Is there a rear adapter that's currently recommended with our backing plate? A lot of post refer to having to grind things down to fit, and the cheap adapters I picked up have too many clearance issues to work at all. Also how do you keep from all the fluid running out while you have the calipers off? Is the vacuum created by the cap enough to keep things from running dry? Also tip to OP: if you have used calipers, build a tread chase to clean them out before install. Take a bolt and cut four long ways slits in it. Run that through the threads a few times and they'll be clean and ready for your new bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I just did this last weekend. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyKid5 Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 What is everyone's thoughts on replacing the seals? A shop told me if the calipers are in good condition/paint has not changed color due to extreme heat that it isn't necessary. Mine came off a car with 70k on it, is there a general life expectancy on the seals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunarx Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 ^ With those miles, I would change the seals. Now is eaaiest time, since calipers are off car and dry. It's peace of mind, if you plan to keep car long term. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gkinslow Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 Dteaser those look sweet! That is the brake upgrade I've been contemplating as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 re: seals - check the wear of the pads that came with the calipers. If the pads are wearing down fairly flat, and the rotor appears to be also have consistent wear from center to the edge, then you're probably ok. If a seal is going bad, the pistons won't push with the same force or one might be stuck. This will cause uneven wear on the pad, and when you brake the rotor will be at an angle - causing vibrations. Imagine the rotating rotor and pushing one side of it with your finger, it will tilt the whole rotor. If you're able to do seals now, it could be better for peace of mind and should last the rest of the time you own the car. +1 to all the other previous advice. The brake pad spreader is super handy, especially if you don't know if the used pistons are hard to push in by hand. Search around for "gravity bleed", there is some debate on whether the buddy method for bleeding is the best. They argue that the buddy method puts undue/unnatural strain on the MBC and could damage the seals/internal parts. I've always done buddy method in the past, but after reading that argument for a gravity bleed I am considering doing it that way. Especially since most of the time I'm working on the car I'm by myself anyways xD Another tip I've read is to wedge a long stick or pole in between the brake pedal and your seat. Holding the brake pedal down will supposedly release less brake fluid when you unplug your brake lines from the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyKid5 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Well you guys talked me in to it, I'm going to replace the seals. I'd be mad at myself if I didn't and then had an issue. And by some stroke of luck I was able to get seals for the front and rear here before installing them on Saturday. I'm sure it's relatively straight forward but does anyone know of a good tutorial on replacing the seals? I have a brake pad spreader being delivered today along with the brake bleeder bottles and fluid. So I SHOULD be all set, fingers crossed. I'll have to look into the the gravity bleed option, thanks for the recommendation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 nice. Have you done the MBC brace yet? I highly recommend that to get the stiff braking feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyKid5 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 nice. Have you done the MBC brace yet? I highly recommend that to get the stiff braking feel. It's arriving today too and will be getting installed with the brakes this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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