200kSpecB Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 drop of oil on the turbo return hose? In these two you can see that the up-pipe bracket is wet with oil turbo oil return and gasket... thinking the gasket might be my culprit oil feed looks dry cant feel any oil on the top of the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 Yea, I'd like to see a thicker gasket in there. We used to use this for lot's of Honda civic turbo's. https://www.google.com/search?q=turbo+thunderbird+turbo+gasket+set&oq=turbo+thunderbird+turbo+gasket+set&aqs=chrome..69i57.19527j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 well... bad news I was driving the car today trying to add some kilometers to the break in, drove for about half an hour with no issues... not even any knock notifications from the BTSSM. Then on my way home the dashboard lights up and I pull the codes... guess what? P0011 and P0021........... Oil level is perfectly fine and the oil only has about 50-60kms on it and the engine about 85kms since rebuilding...... While rebuilding I replaced all oil related parts: lines, pickup, pan, OCVs, oil cooler, etc. Why would I be getting these codes now? and both of them at the same time????????? UGH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 well... bad news I was driving the car today trying to add some kilometers to the break in, drove for about half an hour with no issues... not even any knock notifications from the BTSSM. Then on my way home the dashboard lights up and I pull the codes... guess what? P0011 and P0021........... Oil level is perfectly fine and the oil only has about 50-60kms on it and the engine about 85kms since rebuilding...... While rebuilding I replaced all oil related parts: lines, pickup, pan, OCVs, oil cooler, etc. Why would I be getting these codes now? and both of them at the same time????????? UGHI had the same issue. If your logging parameters make sure the AVCS sprockets are adjusting accordingly. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 I had the same issue. If your logging parameters make sure the AVCS sprockets are adjusting accordingly. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk I was logging the whole time, what would I be looking for again? I read up on it a while ago but can't quite remember now. At a quick glance they all seem to be +/- 1 with a couple being +/- 3 deg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 I was logging the whole time, what would I be looking for again? I read up on it a while ago but can't quite remember now. At a quick glance they all seem to be +/- 1 with a couple being +/- 3 deg.Well this is good if they are within +/- 1 maybe 2 degrees. I'm not sure about 3 degrees that seems a bit excessive. Most people clean out the AVCS gears at a minimum. I did not see you mention that you replaced those gears as well. They can contain bearing material from the first failure and cause the problem to happen all over again. Or they could just be smudged up. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 Well this is good if they are within +/- 1 maybe 2 degrees. I'm not sure about 3 degrees that seems a bit excessive. Most people clean out the AVCS gears at a minimum. I did not see you mention that you replaced those gears as well. They can contain bearing material from the first failure and cause the problem to happen all over again. Or they could just be smudged up. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Sorry I guess I never mentioned it but I actually took them apart and cleaned them out as per some instructions I found on NASIOC. I'm wondering though if they might still be the problem, again I don't know what I should be seeing but after looking at some other people's logs online I think it's strange that my VVT timing never exceeded 3 degrees. Again though that might be normal maybe you can let me know if it seems reasonable.... Unfortunately I wasn't logging the OCV duty cycle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Sorry I guess I never mentioned it but I actually took them apart and cleaned them out as per some instructions I found on NASIOC. I'm wondering though if they might still be the problem, again I don't know what I should be seeing but after looking at some other people's logs online I think it's strange that my VVT timing never exceeded 3 degrees. Again though that might be normal maybe you can let me know if it seems reasonable.... [ATTACH]256199[/ATTACH] Unfortunately I wasn't logging the OCV duty cycle...VVT L & R are both showing 0. Which suggests that neither of them are moving. I would bet that is your problem right there. Most likely when you cleaned them out they were not reassembled concentric which is causing them to bind. This happened to me as well so I had to pull them off and re assemble them. Out front motor sports recommends you insert the nose of the camshaft before you tighten them up to ensure they are concentric. You can probably find a YouTube video on this. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 VVT L & R are both showing 0. Which suggests that neither of them are moving. I would bet that is your problem right there. Most likely when you cleaned them out they were not reassembled concentric which is causing them to bind. This happened to me as well so I had to pull them off and re assemble them. Out front motor sports recommends you insert the nose of the camshaft before you tighten them up to ensure they are concentric. You can probably find a YouTube video on this. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk With school started up again I haven't had any time to do anything about the CEL.... I changed the oil but at this point considering my history with these codes I'm too scared to even start the car lol for the timing degrees, whats a typical range? I want to take a look at my logs and see if I can figure anything out and hopefully narrow it down to the intake gears before I crank it and potentially risk another rebuild. Also: we don't have a banjo filter in the turbo oil feed do we? I called a local Subaru performance shop and he assured me we had a third filter but from what I can remember we only have the two AVCS filters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 I'm not certain on the degrees but somewhere around 0-15 Or so for that rpm. I doubt you will risk piston to valve interference since they seem to be seized. I would bet 100$ that your AVCS cam gears are not moving like they should or not at all. Due to improper reassembly ofcourse. You can take a look at my build thread, the last few posts I was experiencing the same exact thing as you. The degrees vary depending on load and rpm. Yours do not move at all, not even 1 degree. They should move very freely. Yes you are correct about the banjo bolt filter. I pulled out both, one on each side from the topside of the heads. Not where the spark plugs are. I think you have to pull the intake assembly and possibly the rear timing cover to get to them or they might just be on top. If you plan on pulling them. Just pull off intake and tgvs first and see if those lines have them on those ends. But like I said earlier I would bet 100$ your gears were not reassembled concentric and that is what is causing them to bind, since your not seeing any movement at all. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 thanks darth I appreciate the help. I guess I'll take it for a quick drive one day soon and log the OCV duty cycle just to be sure then if it turns out to be the AVCS gears I'll just replace them. After 10 years and 200k kms probably the smartest thing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 Car is parked for the winter, didn't finish the break in and don't want to risk damaging anything in the cold. In the meantime I want to waste money so does anyone know if the ACDelco 172-2768 front passenger callipers will fit? I can't find any of the old 172-2587 callipers and it seems they were replaced by these. Amazon says the dimensions for the new ones are: 37.3 x 18.3 x 18.3, while the old ones were: 36.8 x 20.1 x 17 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Any auto parts store will have front calipers, I use bought some from NAPA. I think rock auto has a good price on them. Though I to buy local sometimes. IMO I would not let the car sit and not drive it, but that's just me. My Spec doesn't get used much in the winter but once or twice a month. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesterner Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 Car is parked for the winter, didn't finish the break in and don't want to risk damaging anything in the cold. In the meantime I want to waste money so does anyone know if the ACDelco 172-2768 front passenger callipers will fit? I can't find any of the old 172-2587 callipers and it seems they were replaced by these. Amazon says the dimensions for the new ones are: 37.3 x 18.3 x 18.3, while the old ones were: 36.8 x 20.1 x 17 Thanks Just finished going through this thread and I wondered if this was my old SpecB. Moved from Calgary in 2011, sold to a guy in Coquitlam (25K in cold hard cash--I shit you not!), with what I remember being about 125K km. What a car, miss it and I wish I didn't sell:-) It was stage 2 at the time though.... THAT being said, stage 2 was OK in Calgary at altitude, but I use to get a fair amount of light feedback, and that's when they had E10 94. But that can be pretty common anyway at low RPM or at tip-in. Anyway, Cryo seems to be a good bet as they tune at altitude so they'll know what's up. With my Wagon now I'm trying out Tuning Alliance this week :-D Good luck! PS if Airboy Tuning is still around in Calgary, he's a great bet too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Just finished going through this thread and I wondered if this was my old SpecB. Moved from Calgary in 2011, sold to a guy in Coquitlam (25K in cold hard cash--I shit you not!), with what I remember being about 125K km. What a car, miss it and I wish I didn't sell:-) It was stage 2 at the time though.... THAT being said, stage 2 was OK in Calgary at altitude, but I use to get a fair amount of light feedback, and that's when they had E10 94. But that can be pretty common anyway at low RPM or at tip-in. Anyway, Cryo seems to be a good bet as they tune at altitude so they'll know what's up. With my Wagon now I'm trying out Tuning Alliance this week :-D Good luck! PS if Airboy Tuning is still around in Calgary, he's a great bet too That would be pretty cool if it was your old spec! Any distinguishing features you can think of? I got the car essentially stock besides: Fujitsubo catback, JDM rain visors, a DIY(?) grill, and the interior wrapped in a yellow-orange color. I think Airboy is still around but I honestly haven't heard much about him... everyone always talks about Vex lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awesterner Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 That would be pretty cool if it was your old spec! Any distinguishing features you can think of? I got the car essentially stock besides: Fujitsubo catback, JDM rain visors, a DIY(?) grill, and the interior wrapped in a yellow-orange color. I think Airboy is still around but I honestly haven't heard much about him... everyone always talks about Vex lol. Bone stock looking, with only a Cobb DP. pic was from 2009 (I think). I'm such an idiot for selling it. Funny to think I could not get more than 25K for it in 2011 when our CAD was at par with the USD (the excuse was all the imports coming in)....well NOW look at the prices of SpecB's and period STI's in Canada! It would very high mileage now though.... sigh.... SO Vex is the go-to now? Good to know, as I might be relocating back that way next year.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 Bone stock looking, with only a Cobb DP. pic was from 2009 (I think). I'm such an idiot for selling it. Funny to think I could not get more than 25K for it in 2011 when our CAD was at par with the USD (the excuse was all the imports coming in)....well NOW look at the prices of SpecB's and period STI's in Canada! It would very high mileage now though.... sigh.... SO Vex is the go-to now? Good to know, as I might be relocating back that way next year.... Old_saab.jpg [emoji23] Anyway, I personally am not a fan of vex... I’ve talked to them quite a few times and they’ve treated me like I didn’t know what I was talking about. They also insisted we had 3 banjo filters when I knew we only had the 2. I’ve talked to tunerworks as well and they were always top notch, super respectful guys. There’s usually a couple specs for sale in Alberta at a time and some are a really good deal (low kms and mint condition) and I sometimes hate myself for not waiting but at least I got to learn a lot! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrho Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 VEX performance is hit or miss. Those guys are kind of on a high horse and only promote really expensive and high end brands but they do good work. Probably still your best bet for Subaru stuff in Calgary I'd say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birkhoff Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 VVT L & R are both showing 0. Which suggests that neither of them are moving. I would bet that is your problem right there. Most likely when you cleaned them out they were not reassembled concentric which is causing them to bind. This happened to me as well so I had to pull them off and re assemble them. Out front motor sports recommends you insert the nose of the camshaft before you tighten them up to ensure they are concentric. You can probably find a YouTube video on this. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk The bore in the cover plate is larger than the bore in the body. If you use a cam nose to align, it is better than nothing and will keep them from binding, but you could be a few thou out of concentric. Then, the running surface on the backplate for the cam seal is kind of bouncing around. If I recall, OutFront uses a mandrel to do the alignment to take into account the different diameters. When I did my cam gears I had access to a lathe so I just made up a mandrel for assembly. You can see the setup in my rebuild thread. See post 45 HERE OP, I see you are in Calgary. If you pay postage, I can send you my alignment mandrel from Victoria on a loan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted December 3, 2017 Author Share Posted December 3, 2017 The bore in the cover plate is larger than the bore in the body. If you use a cam nose to align, it is better than nothing and will keep them from binding, but you could be a few thou out of concentric. Then, the running surface on the backplate for the cam seal is kind of bouncing around. If I recall, OutFront uses a mandrel to do the alignment to take into account the different diameters. When I did my cam gears I had access to a lathe so I just made up a mandrel for assembly. You can see the setup in my rebuild thread. See post 45 HERE OP, I see you are in Calgary. If you pay postage, I can send you my alignment mandrel from Victoria on a loan. Thats super nice of you, thanks I really appreciate it. I won't be doing any work on the car until April as that's when school should be wrapping up so I might take you up on that offer some time around then? Any chance you have a 2007 spec B by the way? I was in Victoria this summer and saw someone parking theirs so I told them I had an 08 but they didnt believe me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 I’m stuck and hoping someone could help me out. Just got around to trying to replace the AVCS intake gears and I’ve got the belt off and I’ve also gotten the cam bolts out. Now my problem is that the cam gears won’t budge? From what I remember they slid off pretty easily the last two times I had them off but I’ve tried pulling like crazy and they won’t budge... am I maybe forgetting something? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 This has happened to me and I believe 1 other member. I believe an oil film gets between the camshaft and the gear causing a suction effect. How I got it off was I used a harmonic balancer puller. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 This has happened to me and I believe 1 other member. I believe an oil film gets between the camshaft and the gear causing a suction effect. How I got it off was I used a harmonic balancer puller. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Thanks for the tip! I rented a harmonic balancer puller and bought a few M5x50 bolts and washers and finally got the gears off. I double checked the cams to see if they were damaged and noticed some scratches on them; I'm not sure what the tolerances are like on these? I can feel the scratches on the passenger side cam which has me a little worried. Heres the setup I used for pulling the gears: And here are the cam noses: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted May 14, 2018 Author Share Posted May 14, 2018 Is this worth worrying about? I've read that a half-tooth is typical but this looks more like a full tooth to me... It's confusing to me since the timing marks on the covers line up but the two cams don't line up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 I'm going to say yes, I'd be worried about that. Did you rotate the engine through by hand the correct number of times to verify the marks are correct ? Having said that, then I checked here, see post 26 for pictures, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replacing-timing-belt-94193.html?t=94193 How's something to watch...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYqgBlCrJnU 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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