Darth SpecB Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 That does look excessive. Glad to see you got those gears off. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted May 15, 2018 Author Share Posted May 15, 2018 I think you guys are right, I’ll take the covers back off this weekend and have another look. I’m thinking the exhaust cam might be the culprit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 I’m completely lost and hoping someone can help me figure this out... I’ve had the timing belt on and off about 4 times today and I just cannot get the marks to line up after rotating the crank by hand. The belt I’m using has marks on it with the correct number of teeth between them and so I’ve used that to help line the timing marks up. Everything seems good until I release the tensioner and crank it by hand and the drivers side looks to be at least a tooth off. What confuses me the most is that the tooth count is still correct but the timing marks are definitely not right... I’m starting to consider that potentially this belt (bando) is slightly longer and that with my block and heads having been decked that there is even MORE slack in the belt than usual.... but I’m really just guessing at this point... any ideas?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 And to make things even more confusing, this is what it looks like when I line up the cams: Sorry for the overload of pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 Last i knew, the directional arrows are supposed to point into the gaps. At least that is how the 01 lgt rebuild went. Did you have it locked down when you changed the belt, or did it advance on you? And pic 1 of this page is def off 1 tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted May 28, 2018 Author Share Posted May 28, 2018 Last i knew, the directional arrows are supposed to point into the gaps. At least that is how the 01 lgt rebuild went. Did you have it locked down when you changed the belt, or did it advance on you? And pic 1 of this page is def off 1 tooth. I was thinking it looks about 1/2 a tooth to 1 whole tooth off but how does that make sense if the teeth count up correctly to the timing marks?? If I move any of the cams to line up the marks it’ll put me off a tooth in the tooth count? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 29, 2018 Share Posted May 29, 2018 IMO you need to remove the belt, line up the marks, put the belt back on. Don't worry about the timing marks on the belt, the belt doesn't care where it goes. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 IMO you need to remove the belt, line up the marks, put the belt back on. Don't worry about the timing marks on the belt, the belt doesn't care where it goes. I'm not against doing this, but what about the fact that the tooth count is right? thats whats really screwing with my head right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 I'm with Max. I think you're being a little too OCD about trying to get the marks to line up perfectly. You already verified that the belt marks are correct, so take the belt off, line up the cams, rotate the crank to where it should be, and slap that bad boy back on there. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 Remember to compress the tensioner very slowly. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 So I’ve been doing some breaking in and it seems alright. My main concerns are: - low oil pressure at warm idle... seeing about 10psi when warm (on a prosport) - VVT R doesn’t seem to be actuating like the left. I got up to 36° today with the VVTL but VVTR only got up to 6°. I didn’t log the OCV but they’re both brand new (along with both the cam gears)... something’s up Forgot to mention that the low pressure is most likely due to the loose main clearances (.0024 - .0036) so I’m gonna try running a heavier oil and I’m thinking about the 12mm pump. While I’m at it, what does a leaky rear main look like? I’ve got some oil dripping off the passenger side subframe which I thought was from the turbo but even after replacing the return pipe and gasket I still got a steady leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Surprise surprise the codes are back! I’m pretty confused though... why would I have P0021 if that one seems to be behaving normally? Maybe someone here has an idea of what is going on? Here’s a screenshot of my btssm... not much help but notice the difference between the AVCS and also note that the IAM is sitting steady at 0.5... And here are the codes I pulled, is this all linked back to the timing belt somehow? I feel really dumb but I just can’t figure this out... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 I believe your getting that code because of the difference in avcs angles are not in sync. You could try to look at everything that has to do with that. Including oil pressure, may be the line has a blockage? Did you remove the banjo filters? Checked the solenoids? Check assembly of the actual sprocket? Start there Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 I believe your getting that code because of the difference in avcs angles are not in sync. You could try to look at everything that has to do with that. Including oil pressure, may be the line has a blockage? Did you remove the banjo filters? Checked the solenoids? Check assembly of the actual sprocket? Start there Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Oil pressure seems alright, banjo filters are gone, and the sprockets themselves are new and were good when I was putting them on... the solenoids are new but worth checking out and there's definitely the possibility of a blockage somewhere... potentially that part of the valve cover that has the tiny passages that can get clogged with rtv... Gonna switch around the solenoids first and also switch to a thicker oil, if that doesn't do it I think I'm looking at a blockage of some sort unless my cam is somehow seized on there again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 Just had a thought, could a cam position sensor be doing something like this? Or would I also be seeing the code for that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 I would think you'd be getting a code for the sensor not reading correctly ? may be reach out to covertrussian and see if he can help 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 Something unrelated but worth mentioning: I put in a brand new 24F interstate and yet the car is really slow to start, similarly I noticed that the wipers and windows are painfully slow. Any ideas? My first thought was bad grounding but I'm pretty sure I reconnected all the original grounding points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 24F is that the correct battery size ? I thought we had 35N's ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 24F is that the correct battery size ? I thought we had 35N's ? Not the correct size, it’s quite a bit larger but I managed to squish it in there. I had this issue before I swapped out the battery though so I doubt thats causing it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted June 30, 2018 Author Share Posted June 30, 2018 Just swapped the OCVs and I think I’m probably the first person in history to have it actually follow to the other side [emoji23] Hopefully a new pair will solve the problem, also a friend said that the -8 vacuum at idle is something to worry about, boost leak? Timing off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted July 8, 2018 Share Posted July 8, 2018 Like Max said.. You would be throwing a sensor code along with the car not starting. A defaulted cam sensor is going to failsafe the car into paralysis. Just like a crank sensor kills all. I noticed in your pics that you go neg11 deg on startup according to your app. I do not see anwhere near a neg 11 timing on my runout. Was this the boost showing -11 or timing? Because my timing is -4 at most and that is cold startup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 Like Max said.. You would be throwing a sensor code along with the car not starting. A defaulted cam sensor is going to failsafe the car into paralysis. Just like a crank sensor kills all. I noticed in your pics that you go neg11 deg on startup according to your app. I do not see anwhere near a neg 11 timing on my runout. Was this the boost showing -11 or timing? Because my timing is -4 at most and that is cold startup. I'll keep an eye on this... I'm thinking its just an anomaly though but we'll see. Only drove it once since then and the phone running BTSSM decided to brick so I wasn't able to monitor the engine but after changing to 10w-40 the oil pressure at idle significantly increased to around 20-30psi... way more than I was expecting (but I might not have let it warm up enough). I'm hearing a metallic scraping noise that sounds wheel speed dependent and I noticed I was driving that last bit with a nearly flat rear right tire, I'm praying its just a sticky caliper and not a diff, the noise went away when I applied the brakes if that means anything lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Metal sound could be a dust shield rubbing, or a hung up pad that has worn lopsided. But the motor seems to be running strong now, or you are not driving it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted July 9, 2018 Author Share Posted July 9, 2018 It hasn't been seeing too much action lately I'm honestly too scared to drive it It seems like everytime I drive it I discover something new and expensive... but I really should get on with this break in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted July 10, 2018 Author Share Posted July 10, 2018 Decided to take her around the block to stretch her legs and everything seemed fine until about 30 minutes in the nav shut off and restarted.... then it shut off again, then the abs light came on with the traction control light and would turn off when I hit the brakes... then eventually everything shut off but the gauges were still moving and the engine was still running. WHAT Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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