TickerPyro Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 Have you ever replaced a hub bearing on the car? There is a little magnetic sensor that has an 8mm screw holding it in that is set inside the spindle. It measures magnetic pulse and that thows abs and traction codes. If you unscrew that sensor and clean off all the metal shavings, and make sure the wire is all good, it should fix itself. Same issue popped up on my girls forester and a simple clean fixed it up easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted July 10, 2018 Author Share Posted July 10, 2018 Thanks for the tip I'll give that a shot, would that explain the nav restarting and shutting off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Ended up being a torn wire going from the alternator so now the electronics seem to be a lot better. On the other hand, IAM is still stuck on 0.500 and I can feel that the engine isn’t all that happy. The car idles a little rough on startup and I keep setting off be knock warning in BTSSM. Also the car seems to sit at 24deg of timing... I’m not sure what it should be but seems wrong to me? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 You should only ne at 24° of timing under load at around 3k rpms (kinda tune dependant). Stock tune at idle is -11 i think or close to it. If you are advanced that far just at an idle i would seriously take a read and log of timing over a pull 1st-3rd under hard acceleration, and a 5th cruise. If this is the case, (and your tune has you on a flowing advance) you are def pre-detting at 3K rpms, let alone 5k. I feel sorry for that engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 I didn't really pay attention to the timing at idle but coasting in gear with no load it sat steady at 24°. I feel sorry for it too... as far as I know the tune is stock so something funny is going on. I haven't been getting the car into boost and I'll keep it that way until I figure out what's going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 Had a compression and leakdown test done and the results came back ok... I dont have the numbers with me but it was about 2-5% leakdown which to me sounded good but the compression was +-100psi. To me that seems extremely low, I didn't ask if it was done hot or cold but I'm assuming the shop knows better than to do it cold. My ring end gaps were on the loose side could this be causing the lower compression? Or is it most likely that it was done cold? Guy at the shop said it's most likely that the rings haven't seated yet since the car's only gone a couple hundred miles since the rebuild but I'm not too sure about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Sti end gaps are a bit bigger. I believe around .020. Slightly bigger end gaps shouldn't cause that much loss in compression especially if they were installed 180 degrees away from each other. Most likely the rings have not yet seated. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 So I've been chasing this oil leak for nearly the past year and I finally found where its coming from..... seems to be leaking oil from around this case bolt????? Now I'm at a loss, I reused the bolts but put all new washers. Likewise I'm sure I put silicone on the inside of the block between the halves. And I'm sure I torqued all of these to spec but maybe I missed this one? or maybe I stripped it somehow (although I think I would've noticed this).... Anyone have any ideas of what might've happened or what might be causing the leak? If its stripped then I'm at a crossroads... and tempted to get rid of / part out the spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 (edited) case bolt, isn't that where the head gasket seals ? I'm sure you've check that surface for flatness ? Edited October 13, 2018 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 case bolt, isn't that where the head gasket seals ? I'm sure you've check that surface for flatness ?I think he is talking about the case bolt hiding in the crevice that is circled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 I think he is talking about the case bolt hiding in the crevice that is circled. Yup that’s the one... case halves were decked by my machinist so i know they were flat. I really have no idea what could cause this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 I didn't look...b25 or d25 heads? If b25, it could be the half-moon seals leaking and traveling down to that location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 D25 heads so no half moons did some quick searching and cant seem to find anyone with a similar problem here or even on NASIOC I had the tranny out and started it up and could see the oil starting to flow from that bolt so unfortunately it's definitely the bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 So, can you tighten that bolt ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 So, can you tighten that bolt ? That’s the next step, I’ll see tomorrow. Praying that that’s all it is Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted October 15, 2018 Author Share Posted October 15, 2018 (edited) well tightening the bolts a quarter turn seemed to have solved the issue for the time being but I don't trust the car anymore. I’m really leaning towards selling it in the near future, as long as nothing else breaks in the meantime Edited October 16, 2018 by 200kSpecB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 Quarter turn is a lot, IMO you should be good for along time. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share Posted November 26, 2018 Was working on the spec b and noticed the exhaust was pretty thick white smoke. At first I thought it was just condensation but then after the car warmed up it was still smoking the same as before... pulled the down pipe off and saw that the exhaust side is completely rusted out? Anyone know what could be causing this? My best guess is that a seal went bad in the turbo and it’s burning coolant but I’m not really sure... any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 Have you owned the car since new? and if so ever use Torco, Boostane, Octanium, or similar? Looks like MMT residue to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share Posted November 26, 2018 Have you owned the car since new? and if so ever use Torco, Boostane, Octanium, or similar? Looks like MMT residue to me. Definitely not since new, owned the car for the past couple years now and the turbo didn’t look like this about a month ago... I actually did use an octane booster (can’t remember which brand) a few months ago because the tank had been sitting for nearly a year, could that be the cause? I’m not too familiar with this stuff, is the residue something I should be worried about? Also, would this be related at all to the white smoke in my exhaust? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TickerPyro Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 It is not rusted out where residual water might sit. Are the coolant lines tightened around the turbo or to the TB above it? It can be the reason you had coolant in that groove on the block/head and traveling down the engine like mine does. I have a tiny drip that burns off before it hits the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200kSpecB Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 I’ve been buttoning up some things with the car the past few months, I pulled up BTSSM for the first time in a while and saw this on the LV. Not too familiar with this stuff but looks like the ecu is pulling fuel in high load? Potential boost leak? Worth mentioning is that I’m getting lots and lots of knock notifications but really can’t seem to pin point when or why, they seem to be consistent but random. I’d guess about 20 notifications in an hour of spirited driving (IAM still at 1.000 though?) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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