SWP XT Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 (edited) Anyone by chance know the part numbers for those or seen the diagram anywhere? I'll pull the Subaru diagrams later unless someone knows which ones they are. Also what is the deal with the inlet tear that's pretty common. I would think with 58k mine would be OK but I certainly want to check as I remember the AZP guys swearing at JaseJase's during the install many years ago! Also thanks for advice on Oil Pickup - Ordered the Moroso 24965 Pickup. Edited March 31, 2017 by SWP XT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 You've got to be kidding me. Oh, wait, maybe you're not. Oil line was a 1k dealer job. Free for me.... But book cost was 1k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP XT Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Ordered the King Rod and Main bearing kits. (Got enough of each size to mix and match for proper clearances to the crank just in case. ) Added Rod Bolts to my list of regular parts to acquire from the local dealer. I'll order the rest of the stuff on Monday (clutch etc). Surprised nobody knows of a better clutch that is close to factory feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 After markets I've driven are the opposite of oem in feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 I enjoy the Spec 2+ clutch with the 5mt. Others like the Southbend. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 How is it compared to oem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 (edited) There's this one from exedy that should basically be a good replacement for oem: model FJK1001FW Edited April 2, 2017 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP XT Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 The oem with my dealer discount is only like 300 with new throwout bearing. I was hoping for like a quiet stage 1 clutch upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 That's without the flywheel though right? Complete package is $567 through rockauto I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWR Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I went single mass flywheel and southbend stage 2 DD the pedal feel is amazing. Nothing like the stage 2 in my 6 speed swapped fozzy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP XT Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Yes that's without the flywheel but resurfacing mine is easy enough unless there is a good alternative that isn't $1000+. I know the factory clutch can take the power as its been doing it for 45k+ but if a reasonable replacement cost wise exists I don't mind spending a little more to make it better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Well then, look at the one I just suggested. Same kit and it comes with a solid flywheel. $567 right now. A fellow member just got it too. I am about to get it as well I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 There's this one from exedy that should basically be a good replacement for oem: model FJK1001FW That's without the flywheel though right? Complete package is $567 through rockauto I think. Yes that's without the flywheel but resurfacing mine is easy enough unless there is a good alternative that isn't $1000+. I know the factory clutch can take the power as its been doing it for 45k+ but if a reasonable replacement cost wise exists I don't mind spending a little more to make it better. I've been doing some clutch upgrade reading, so I'll throw out my zero experience 2 cents: From what I've been reading Spec 2 should hold the power easily. The Spec 2+ would allow the future owner to play around with E85, too. Both around $700 + resurface your flywheel. They are both hybrid semi-puck designs, and can get shuddery, but seems rare to my reading. The Exedy Stage 1 (15804) is super cheap at $390 on amazon and would also certainly hold the power, and is similar to the stock disk in that it's full face. The pressure plate is stiffer, but not overly so, as I've been reading. Well then, look at the one I just suggested. Same kit and it comes with a solid flywheel. $567 right now. A fellow member just got it too. I am about to get it as well I think. That Exedy comes with a lightweight fly wheel. Some people don't want that in a DD. I have to do a ton of low rpm first gear creeping, so I crossed the kit with FW off my list. But you can get the same disk and resurface the oem SMFW, or buy a new oem SMFW for under $600 still. Check out the EXEDY FJK1001 on Amazon. $290, 32 reviews and No Haters. That's rare. "I just had my car tuned and the dyno numbers were 322 HP and 344 ft-lbs. The clutch doesn't slip at all so if you're stage 1 or 2 and concerned about clutch slip, don't be. This will work just fine" "It broke in quickly and holds 360 hp/ 400 tq just fine." Similar the power levels the OP is making (dynojet? mustang?). pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Don't chose a Spec 2 for these cars. Mine lasted 50,000 miles. When I talked with Spec, they said, they do not recommend a Spec 2 for these cars, they say a 2+ is what they say to use. So based on your power level start with a Spec 2+ if your going with them. The trusted Vendors on here can get a Spec 2+ for around the $500 range or so. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 That Exedy comes with a lightweight fly wheel. Some people don't want that in a DD. No, that's the thing. It comes with a solid flywheel. Ask Rhitter or check out his build thread. He just got one and provided pictures. Here is the link from rockauto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2392030&jsn=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP XT Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) I'll check the availability of both. Thanks for the great info on clutches. I'll go either spec 2+ or the exedy since both are holding appropriate power levels. I thought the 05-09 didn't have the single mass flywheel I'll check mine when I get hone today. I didn't really pay attention to which one it is. That would be nice if I can just have it resurfaced. Edited April 4, 2017 by SWP XT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 4, 2017 Moderators Share Posted April 4, 2017 Your '09 will already have a SMFW. 05/06 had the DMFW. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 4, 2017 Moderators Share Posted April 4, 2017 Also, the FJK1001 is a stock clutch, you just buy it from anywhere but the dealer. Same parts though. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 He gets a nice oem discount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWP XT Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 I would just get the OEM clutch vs the exedy if they are the same. The OEM clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing is less than $300. I'm looking at the SPEC 2+ clutch. if that's $500 I'm fine with spending a couple hundred bucks in the spirit of doing what's right for the next owner. My factory clutch held the power without issue unless you were beating the hell out of it on a hot day. If its 95 degrees out and you were taking some launches and really pushing the car and shifting a lot you could get some slip on the 3/4 shift and toward peak power in 4th. Daily driving and mashing the throttle once you were already rolling to pass some cars on the highway or a couple hard downshifts to blow by someone or just have some fun were not a problem. That being said a couple hundred bucks to make that concern go away would be worth it so long as the drivability doesn't become miserable. Personally as a DD I would much rather a smooth and low effort clutch and know that beating it to death is a problem on hot days than live everyday with a clutch that makes driving in traffic a nightmare. So all of you Spec 2+ clutch owners how would you feel about driving it every day in traffic? Max Capacity - how was the spec 2 on a DD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 I drive it everyday, a few times in stop and go traffic on the highway for about 4 miles. On the back roads it's fine. I don't find the pedal much stiffer then the stock clutch in my Spec B. (After tomorrow I won't be able to say that anymore. Its getting a Southbend stage 1 HD.) It does make a howl sometimes when letting it out in 1st great. That's normal for a carbon/ Kevlar disc. It can chatter sometimes if I baby it to much. Just run it through the gears with some good power or just side step the pedal with the tranny in neutral engine running. It grabs to same place most every time. About 3" off the floor, then it's pretty much fully engaged, just meter in throttle at the same rate your lifting your left foot off the pedal. To launch the car, pull the hand brake, let the clutch out until you feel the car pull against the brake, give it some rpm, when the light turns green, release clutch and brake, go to WOT. Hold on. LOL You do know that on the drag strip if you see the green light your to late. Leave on the last yellow. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 You do know that on the drag strip if you see the green light your to late. Leave on the last yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 4, 2017 Moderators Share Posted April 4, 2017 Keep in mind that clutch reviews are different for everyone. You might want to ask Max what his racing experience / past vehicles have been. His "normal" might not match yours. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Heeeeey BMB, what's up with your car man? don't tell me 'same old same old' ok? sorry, hijack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 (edited) Keep in mind that clutch reviews are different for everyone. You might want to ask Max what his racing experience / past vehicles have been. His "normal" might not match yours. Back in the late 1970's I had the shop Foreman at McCloud Clutch build me a pressure plate for my 1970 Duster 340. It had 284 duration 450 lift cam, headers, single plane intake manifold, Holley 700CFM double pumper, Accel ignition, Hurst super shifter, 7" slicks. That 3000lbs pressure had a nice light feel because of the long style fingers and the combination of springs he used. On a power shift you thought the dash board was going to come out of the car, it hit so hard. Here's some old school for you. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/071107184227.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/071107183639.jpg The white Duster behind mine had a 440 and torqueflight tranny. A buddies car. more story, I learned how to drive a stick on a 1970 VW bug. In Feb 1973 bought a 1970 GTO with a 400 and a 4 speed. After crashing that a few months later bought the Duster. Had that till 1982 when it was replaced by a 1982 Honda Civic FI with a 5 speed and 60HP, great mpg. Than had 1985 300ZX, then the 92 Civic Si in my avatar. In 98 bought my first Subaru GT wagon, than a 00 GT wagon then the 05. The Spec 2+ is not a stock clutch, it is a high performance one, but doesn't have the stiff pedal a lot of them do. Edited April 4, 2017 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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