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Installing factory fog/ driving lights in a Legacy L


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How difficult would it be to install factory fog lights in a Legacy that didn't come with them from the factory? Is the wiring to plug in the lights already present, as is the wiring to plug into the switch on the dash?

 

I was just curious on how hard woudl it be to get some used fog light assemblies and the proper dash switch and install them.

 

Subaru made it super easy on later models. For my 2014 Impreza, I just bought the factory kit that included the lights themselves, replacement dash panel and a relay to plug in under the dash- all plug n' play.

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The fog light plugs are not present and I'm sure the front end harness is not the same depending on the cars options. The stock switch has something like 6 different prongs/connections so you'll have to figure out what they all do so that you can wire it up yourself with maintaining the OE switch. I ended up just taping into the low beam harness so that mine are always on when the headlights are on and then turn off when the high beams are on, that way I'm withing state regulation and because I was too lazy to wire a switch.
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the brackets are available, and the bumper beam should have the inserts already in it for the install, so physically it shouldnt be too hard to get them in. cut out the holes in the bumper cover and get the wires all ran. you can find the wiring for the fogs in the FSM linked in the stickies section, thats where i found them. i have yet to install the switch in my own wagon tho, everyone keeps wrecking my car and making me put it off.
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  • 2 months later...

GO with LED and a relay harness. Way better lighting than stock. The cheap $14 4" square Ebay lights work way better than any stock option. A Relay harness is about $5.

 

The relay harness is all ready wired and all you really have to do is put a switch on it.

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I still like the look of the stock 'GT lights. Since my L is a '98, it has the same bumper as the GT. Found a set on Ebay that can be had for $86 shipped that I'm tempted to go for.

 

I wouldn't mind being able to get an OEM switch and use it, but if it's easier to get some other sort of aftermarket wiring kit and switch in order to make them work, than I'd be willing to go that route.

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GO with LED and a relay harness. Way better lighting than stock. The cheap $14 4" square Ebay lights work way better than any stock option. A Relay harness is about $5.

 

The relay harness is all ready wired and all you really have to do is put a switch on it.

 

Is this the type of kit you were referring to? The power switch almost looks like it would fit into the OEM location for it in the dash

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371894983555?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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That is one kit, it should work if you can run wires. Not sure how well the switch would fit in the stock location. My 97 L had fogs from the factory so I had the wiring all ready there. All I really had to do is put in a relay and mount the fogs.

 

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/rabbidvwrabbit/Subaru/IMG_1466_zps6ebfvf44.jpg

 

These were so bright the headlights were pretty useless. I would only have the headlights on for legal reasons.

 

This is what I had. I was in a wreck so I now have the 99 Outback round fog bumper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-4inch-18W-LED-Work-Spot-Light-Square-Driving-Fog-ATV-Truck-UTE-4X4-4WD-/282211857298?hash=item41b5233392:g:OlIAAOSw42dZGnGb&vxp=mtr

 

And the relay harness I used only because I had factory fogs. I had to modify it for the factory plug and used the plugs off the fogs on the LEDs.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-HID-Conversion-Kit-Relay-Wiring-Harness-H1-H8-H11-HB4-9005-9006-9140-9145-/381329940351?hash=item58c9091f7f:g:aycAAOSwyQtVpewq&vxp=mtr

 

I really don't think it was necessary to relay the LEDs. I did it because one was flickering but the relay didn't fix the issue. I only suggest using LED style lights. They are so much better than bulb style, so much brighter.

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Depending on the year, the wiring may be there. I know that in my 99 L that had no fog lights had the wiring harness tucked down and taped up. There was no wiring for the fogs itself, so that leads me to believe the sub harness that leads to the front was omitted.
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Yes, I popped out the blank where the light would go in the bumper of my '98 L and I didn't see any kind of wiring for it back up in there. From other posts in this forrum, I gather the dash wiring may be present for the switch.
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Is this the type of kit you were referring to? The power switch almost looks like it would fit into the OEM location for it in the dash

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371894983555?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I have a spare fog switch and it seems that this is close. I can't really tell for sure. Comparing to a pic isn't easy.

 

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/rabbidvwrabbit/20170620_0845191_zps6p7g5fyz.jpg

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i have a set of GT lights for my 98L, got them cheap on here, maybe $40?

 

There is no wiring present at the bumper for sure. Attachment is there to bolt them up, though.

 

Yep, same with my '98 L. After looking around, just got a set of OEM lights with brackets for $86 shipped. Going to get a wiring kit and see what I can do. Once everything is installed and working, I'll look at getting upgraded bulbs.

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So with the bumper wiring not present, where is the point to wire back to? Is there some blanked out pins in a connector (such as F1) where we could wire to if we have the Sumitomo pin kit? (I do). If I decide to do this mod I'd like to keep things as factory as possible.
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So with the bumper wiring not present, where is the point to wire back to? Is there some blanked out pins in a connector (such as F1) where we could wire to if we have the Sumitomo pin kit? (I do). If I decide to do this mod I'd like to keep things as factory as possible.

 

I have the wiring diagram but I'm not in a place I can easily access the full PDF for it. I believe the harness is in the passenger side or driver side footwell. There is a cluster of 4 or 5 connectors that lead to the fuse panel under the hood om the driver side and 3 connectors that lead to the front on the passenger side. The harness I picked up for my heated seats merges on the passenger side connectors, so my bets are the drivers side being the key

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I have the FSM in pdf. I'll check it pdq and decide on an eta for that project.

 

So if I find the right connectors, and if they are the right size with vacant pins then I'm all set as I have the pin kit and can put correct pins on the end of new wires and lead them up front.

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I went ahead and got an aftermarket wiring kit. Even though very poor instructions, I figured it out and tested it by hooking it up to the battery.

 

Now I have to figure to best place to tap in to power the one live wire from the switch- either when the ignition is on (I figure I could splice into the red wire to the radio which is powered with the ignition switch). I was also thinking of the orange illumination wire to the radio, but I'm not sure - is that powered only when the lights are on?

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Actually it looks like a I can run a wire (the red wire in this case) from the switch to the low beam wire on the headlights (looks like the yellow with blue stripe). If I do this, will the driving lights work on low beam only, like they are supposed to? This connection isn't actually powering the lights, as there is a separate relay with a connection to the battery positive side.
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I'm using a separate wiring harness, not utilizing any existing wiring for driving lights. I'm trying to tap into whichever wire is powered when the low beams are, so I can wire in the switch to the new wiring harness, so the lights can be switched on when low beams are on, and the driving lights will turn off when high beams are turned on.
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The low beams and high beams get power all the time from a run relay. They just don't get a ground unless the switch allows it. Mixing that with a hot switched circuit is likely to lead to all bulbs running dim all the time.

 

You could convert your kit to send hot to the fogs all the time through a run relay and then tap their ground wire into the low beam switched wire. Only trouble there is you might over-current the low beam wire or headlight switch and burn it out.

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Update- I ended up tapping into the positive line to the headlights. All fo the lights are good and bright and the driving lights only come on when the headlights are on and I throw the switch for the driving lights.

 

Next question is- how does one aim the GT style driving lights? I tested them out tonight and the drivers side was shining up in the trees off the left side of the road, where they should shine on the road directly in front of the car.

 

Part of the issue may be the I had to drill holes in the bumper where the two holes of the driving light brackets line up as there is apparently and adapter piece between the driving light bracket and the bumper that is missing.

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