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Brake pads for street use


Smithcraft

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SuperBlue is no longer legal in the US. Something about Blue is only a legal color for water or coolant. I just put ATE type 200, which I think is SuperBlue without the color. No actual feedback on it. Only done sedate driving.

 

 

 

Correct. They eventually made a yellow-colored version of Super Blue for the US market.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Im a fan of the HPS, however, I've learned over time that I use minimal brakes. Even racing the Miata, I had to go to lower temp pads because I never used them enough to heat up.

 

As a track pad, the HPS was about 3-5 laps before fade. As a street pad, they were perfect for how I drive. As always, ymmv. And yours certainly did. :rolleyes:

 

I loathe HPS pads, and will overcook them on an average commute, let alone spirited driving. StopTechs have been fine (aside from the dust). Takes a lot to get them out of range on the street... still, no way I'd run them on the track. Both the HPS and the ST street performance are street pads. If you can get away with running them on the track then you must be driving at a leisurely pace :lol:

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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I loathe HPS pads, and will overcook them on an average commute, let alone spirited driving. StopTechs have been fine (aside from the dust). Takes a lot to get them out of range on the street... still, no way I'd run them on the track. Both the HPS and the ST street performance are street pads. If you can get away with running them on the track then you must be driving at a leisurely pace :lol:

He's Fangio reincarnated. More throttle, less brake.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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He's Fangio reincarnated. More throttle, less brake.

 

Yup, the master himself:

 

1957french.jpg

 

As demonstrated by Fangio and his Maser, the right slip angle provides more grip for cornering. Not so much for braking, tho ;)

 

Plebes like us need to keep the car straight and use the brakes!

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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I like the Hawk Street performance 5.0 pads. Way better than HPS, but not aggressive like HP Plus. they are good enough for autox duty on my MX-5 so they should be more than fine as a daily pad.

 

these - https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Hawk&model=High+Performance+Street+5.0+Brake+Pads&group=High+Performance+Street+5.0+Brake+Pads&partNum=HB533B668&autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Legacy+Sedan+2.5+GT&autoYear=2005&autoModClar=Limited

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Remember that for autox you need great cold bite and only average upper temperature range. I do a lot of canyon roads with long steep descents, so things can get very hot.

 

Interesting alternative though.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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^you should be engine braking more if you are overheating street pads in the canyon. HP Plus are fine on the street too if you dont mind dust or squeaks, but rip your face off when up to temp, and brake like stock when cold.
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The Project MU HC-CS I use now doesn't melt, and it's as streetable as the HPS. Cold bite is actually better.

 

I know people using the HP+ on the street. They seem much like the DS3000. High mu when hot, okay cold bite, lots of dust that's hard to wash off wheels and rapid rotor wear if you let the transfer layer wear off, with a side dish of squealing.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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You should be engine braking more if you are overheating street pads in the canyon.

 

Why? What's wrong with switching to a brake pad that can handle a canyon better. Relying on engine braking to help reduce the heat of the brakes seems questionable to me. But, what do I know.

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I bought the Hawk HPS because of all the positive feedback on this site. I really dislike them now. I have to admit they pulled off something pretty special though, combining the poor cold bite of a true performance pad with the melting point of the stock pads. I'm sure that took a lot of R&D.

 

I find the Stoptech pads mushy for some reason. Have a customer with a GRB using those and doing 4th gear pulls they don't inspire much confidence.

 

Don't forget how quickly they eat the rotors.

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Why? What's wrong with switching to a brake pad that can handle a canyon better. Relying on engine braking to help reduce the heat of the brakes seems questionable to me. But, what do I know.

 

both are needed, but spirited canyon driving is unique in that you are more on the brakes than track driving sometimes during long down hill sections and your brakes dont have time to cool off. this is compounded by the fact that this is street driving so people dont switch to track pads. this is why engine braking matter more to help relieve brake pad heat.

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You guys think it's worth it to just change the brake fluid (ATE)? Looking for a better pedal feel. My stock pads still have lots of life left, so I'm gonna wait until they're worn before I upgrade.
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You guys think it's worth it to just change the brake fluid (ATE)? Looking for a better pedal feel. My stock pads still have lots of life left, so I'm gonna wait until they're worn before I upgrade.

 

It's good to replace the brake fluid on a regular schedule such as 24 months to 36 months. Alternatively, you can test the brake fluid for moisture and change it when indicated by the test. There are test strips and also electronic testers.

 

Moisture over time can lead to corrosion in the brake system. Also, if you are in a situation where you are using the brakes very heavily (racing, mountain driving, and so on) moisture in the brake lines can lead to sponginess in the pedal.

 

If you want a dramatic difference in brake feel, try changing your pads. OEM pads tend to be optimized for low noise and low dust.

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You might consider DOT 5.1 (silicone) brake fluid. The boiling point is astronomical, and it doesn't pick up water. The downside is that it's more compressible than DOT3/4 (glycol/borane) fluids, so the pedal is a bit softer. It's not compatible with DOT 3/4 fluids, so a really thorough flush is needed when changing between them going in either direction.
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I change my brake fluid out at least once a year.

 

Yes, the stock pads are engineered with the following requirements in mind.

 

Low dust, and dust that doesn't eat into paint. Avoid complaining at the service dept.

 

Zero squealing. New car owners have zero tolerance for squeaky brakes and drive service writers insane.

 

Low rotor wear. Can't be buying owners new disks on warranty or spending all day explaining why brakes are wear items and not covered.

 

Low cost. Very low cost, like 'we'd use dirt if it was cheaper and we could document the supply chain'.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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The tally so far:

 

ns400 +1 / -0

HC-CS +1 / -0

ProjectMu (unspec) +1 / 0

Stoptech 309 +1 / -0

Stoptech StPerf +1 / -1

Stoptech (unspec) +3 / -2

Carbotech AX6 +1 / -0

Wagner TQ +1 / -0

Hawk HPS +3 / -2

Hawk HPS 5.0 +2 / -0

EBS Greenstuff +0 / -1

 

SC

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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Really close to pulling the trigger on those ns400s. Anyone have issues with squealing? Stoptech street performance was amazing till I couldnt get them to stop screaming.
Squealing may be an installation issue. Most any pad can squeal, this is caused by the pad vibrating against metal. Did you install new brake shims on the back of the pads and new clips? Did you use sil-glyde or similar hi-temp synthetic grease between the shims and the caliper piston, also on caliper sliding pins? These things can reduce squealing. On my car anyway, the Stoptech pads don't squeal, unless they are worn out and need to be replaced.
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Really close to pulling the trigger on those ns400s. Anyone have issues with squealing? Stoptech street performance was amazing till I couldnt get them to stop screaming.

 

My Stoptechs are running low on pad. I have not had a squeezing issue. I have the NS400s sitting on the floor near me. I really should install them. By StopTechs are really starting to feel like they struggle with the Stop part of their name.

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Really close to pulling the trigger on those ns400s. Anyone have issues with squealing? Stoptech street performance was amazing till I couldnt get them to stop screaming.

Second post in this thread.

 

SC

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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