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Stumbling/hitting a wall in lower rpms


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Not really a update since I haven't gotten my sti fpr in the mail yet

 

But I did notice while driving the car yesterday and getting into full boost, my boost gauge is no longer accurate at all, I know a few people reported swapping the vac lines and putting their boost gauge line into that 4th runner and seeing fluctuations, but it is most definatly confirmed that my boost gauge is all over the place now lol

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Not really a update since I haven't gotten my sti fpr in the mail yet

 

But I did notice while driving the car yesterday and getting into full boost, my boost gauge is no longer accurate at all, I know a few people reported swapping the vac lines and putting their boost gauge line into that 4th runner and seeing fluctuations, but it is most definatly confirmed that my boost gauge is all over the place now lol

I have the same problem. But idgaf because my ap reads fine but my gauge fluctuates. I heard thinner hosing helps but cannot confirm as I HAVE NOT DONE IT YET.

 

Sent from my LGLS755 using Tapatalk

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I have the same problem. But idgaf because my ap reads fine but my gauge fluctuates. I heard thinner hosing helps but cannot confirm as I HAVE NOT DONE IT YET.

 

Sent from my LGLS755 using Tapatalk

 

 

You guys can tee both the gauge and the FPR into the same location and just cap off the cyl #4 nipple. That line will be more unstable since it's got the pressure fluctuations of just one cylinder instead of all 4 averaged together.

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Yup, I reset it, car idled for a solid 20 minute before it was drove, the battery was disconnected during the entire install to ensure it fully got reset

 

Just idling won't help the car learn. Once it's warm, it will learn how to "idle" very quickly (a minute or two). Actual driving is necessary for the ECU to learn various conditions after a reset. After a couple days of normal, varied driving, the ECU should have stabilized on its learning assuming the car is mechanically sound and the weather hasn't changed drastically.

 

From my understanding, the stumble is helped by the FPR/reference line mods, but also heavily influenced by tune. Without logging it's really hard to say what the cause is or what can be done to fix it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I found 2 boost leaks, one on the ebcs, and one on a purge Solenoid, replaced both if them and the problem is still there

 

I'm wondering I've I'm just chasing a ghost at this point, no cel, it really only does it when the engine is cold and not at operating temp, but I'm officially lost, maybe something internally? I read somewere that people forget to put a O ring on the top of the fuel pump (which I recently replaced mine with a dw65c, but the problem was there before I even replaced it anyway, and I'm 99.9% sure I put the O ring in place anyway)

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Thing is 50% of the time once the car is fully warmed up it'll kinda drive weird, it'll litterally feel like some things clogged at times, only other thing I could maybe think of is I have a injector tick that seems to be a lot louder than most people, but I have no idea how to physically check if the injectors may need to be cleaned or anything
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Mite of missed it, but have you tried fuel injector cleaner. I had really bad stumble between 3500 &4500rmp's. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner, cleared it up in less of 1/4 tank. My injector are original & never been removed. But if I don't remember to use fuel injector cleaner at least once a year, the old girl like to reminds me of my neglect :redface:

:rolleyes:.

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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OK, nothing more to say, good luck.

But if you like to try, here's the three I recommend.

 

Techron® Fuel Injector Cleaner

Berryman® B-12 Chemtool

AMSOIL P.i.

 

I been using AMSOIL P.i. for 12 years (314k+). At least once a year & never had a injector problem, when I remember to put it in.

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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