doublechaz Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 I use two nuts. I also run with two nuts as I've always had trouble with exhaust leaks at that location which reverts air and makes the car run super rich. Running two nuts has helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 I use two nuts. I also run with two nuts as I've always had trouble with exhaust leaks at that location which reverts air and makes the car run super rich. Running two nuts has helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Did you have it happen where the nut rusts solid to the stud so that it now unscrews from the head instead of the nut coming off the stud? You can always find a new stud and the nut is an m12-1.5 I think so as long as the heads are in good shape, I would just hammer the stud out of the header or heat it up and try to unscrew/wiggle it free The car is 100% rust free, it was an Arizona original sold/driven vehicle so we're blessed with minor surface rust that doesn't usually rust bolts where they sit. The nuts came out very easily the first time (but I could tell this was probably the first time the engine was removed before me). The engine I'm using came from a back east car, so I assume the nut and stud came out with the exhaust manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 I've noticed a lot of time it's not really rust that gets the nuts stuck onto the studs, it's just after hundreds of heat cycles, they eventually just weld themselves together. My old set of heads had that happen and with the new heads on my car I coated the studs with anti seize to help and stop that from happening again, having the helicoil the head would be a nightmare in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 I've noticed a lot of time it's not really rust that gets the nuts stuck onto the studs, it's just after hundreds of heat cycles, they eventually just weld themselves together. My old set of heads had that happen and with the new heads on my car I coated the studs with anti seize to help and stop that from happening again, having the helicoil the head would be a nightmare in my opinion. I extracted all the studs out of my old heads. I am kinda pissed that one of them completely stripped out the threads as it came out. I guess that one will have to the drilled and tapped after I send out the motor and heads to the machine shop. On a lighter note, I got the new engine mounted and installed. I love having a Phase 1 block, only 2 bolts and 2 nuts need to be fastened to the transmission. http://i.imgur.com/0GPOuzo.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choover1101 Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Is that your dinner table? Looks good, and clean. Also, could you give us the stud length size and thread pitch? (If they are still loose.) Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 The thread pitch is m10-1.25 for the stud, if my memory is right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Today, I have the engine about 90% installed. http://i.imgur.com/pripoC1.jpg What's left: - tensioner - belts - heater core hoses - fuel lines - blowby hoses - air box bracket - radiator and hoses install - fill with oil and coolant - attach header to existing exhaust - few miscellaneous things I should be firing first key on Thursday or Friday, weather permitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Ugh, now you need blue plug wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Ugh, now you need blue plug wires. I like the contrast between with the red and blue. It's not overpowering and the plug wires match my lightweight pulley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 True, the pulley makes it a "point, counter point" kinda thing. Plus this way your bay won't look exactly like mine. (number of cams notwithstanding...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 I'm about 95% ready for go time. Yesterday afternoon, I buttoned up all the pulleys, belts, and vacuum hoses. Installed the exhaust system with new headers, which were a very tight fit, but with the bolts loosely fastened all the way to the catback connector, it made it easier to install. Today, provided the weather cooperates, I am finishing the radiator hoses, checking all my connections, filling it with all it's vital fluids, and firing it up. I'm a little nervous. I have never heard this engine run in person and the only thing I found wrong with it during initial disassembly was a bad head gasket. I'm guessing that I will need to break in this motor easily for the first few hundred miles to give all the new seals and gaskets time to break in properly. Problems I need to take care of soon: - I have a slight power steering leak from the pump reservoir that I didn't have before and the power steering rack needs to be rebuilt as it is leaking from some of the seals around the bellows. I have a rebuild kit for the rack and new bellows to go along with it - Both CV axle inner boot are completely worn out and have separated. There isn't any dirt inside the joint and the grease is still inside the joints, so I have new boots and synthetic CV grease that I will be rebuilding them with. - Transmission needs a fluid change. I don't know the service history on the transmission and I want to do it for better piece of mind. Since it has 146k miles on the clock, drain and refill the transmission, replace the filters, and I should be good to go. I don't have any transmission issues, and I don't want to in the future. - Both differentials are going to get some attention. I intend to drain both the front and rear and replace the fluid with some high quality synthetic gear oil for longer life and cooler temperatures. - Rear shocks need help. They're bouncy but not overly bouncy. Too much for my tastes. I'm looking into a good coilover setup, but I don't want to lose any of my ride height. The essentials, like tires, brakes and bushings, are in good condition. The tires have less than 3,000 miles on them. They were new when I bought the car. It's a shame because I am planning a WRX brake upgrade and H6 rear brake upgrade because I am not completely satisfied with the braking performance. I'm going to need 17's and these are stock 15's. Anything else you guys can think of that I should look over in the short term? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 The vehicle lives. Here's an update video: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedeadhp Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 yay! Good job! glad it's running again! Sounds good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 After a solid 3 days of testing, there are some minor issues I need to tend to. First, the power steering pump is leaking. I believe its from the reservoir fitting to the pump. I need to take care of that because it is dripping onto my headers and causing excessive smoke some times. Second, I need to figure out the P0325 code issue I am getting intermittently. I was able to read the code and get it to show once. I've had issues in the past with the knock sensor throwing a code when it got wet. This happened right after it was raining pretty good on Wednesday and Thursday. My hood scoop blocker plate is removed exposing the back of the block to the elements. I reset the code on Friday night and within 2 miles it came back. I attempted to read the code and my code reader said no stored or pending codes. What?!?! Not to mention, I couldn't clear the codes because the reader showed no codes. I am getting a bit of hesitation on acceleration and it seems to be running very rich on startup. I don't think I cleaned the mating surface on the block after I painted it, so it could be a false reading. I've also heard a common issue with the knock sensor could be a short in the wiring harness, so I'm going to check that as well because this is the same engine harness from the old engine that I had issues with that knock sensor too. Today, I went out for a drive with the check engine light on. There was some spitting and sputtering on acceleration and noticeable popping and light back fire out of the exhaust. I noticed it was smoking a bit so I stopped and checked it out and saw power steering fluid leaking onto the header. When I got back in and started it up, the light was off and it was running like normal again. So I am really confused as to what it is temperamental about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 It's Tuesday and I got some things accomplished and some things still undone. Today I went on the hunt to fix the power steering leak onto the front of the block and prevent it from dripping on the headers. See my thread here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fix-your-power-steering-reservoir-leaks-good-261083.html I also removed the knock sensor and cleaned the sensor and mating surface and retorqued the bolt. On my test drive the P0325 code came back within a few miles, so tomorrow I will be testing the circuit and/or replacing the knock sensor. I found a great deal for one on Amazon with a 5 star rating for $10, so I guess I will test it to see how it works if my sensor is bad. I found the diagnostic testing instructions in the FSM on how to use a multimeter to test the circuit and the sensor. Looking underneath the car, I know my steering rack is leaking. I am probably going to order a reman unit and be done with it. I also see oil drips underneath the car. I sure hope they're remnants of the old engine, but after I replace the rack, I'm going to degrease and steam clean the whole bottom of the car, just to make sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 Well, all the parts I needed to make it perfect again were ordered and most came in. I'm missing just the new rack and pinion. http://i.imgur.com/T9NtTA4.jpg I've got the new knock sensor to end my P0325 code, new front speakers because the old ones sound like garbage, power steering pump rebuild kit, header wrap, whiteline rack and pinon bushings, new axle boots, synthetic CV axle grease, evolution sport brake kit, and brand new AC Delco tie rod ends. For those looking for an affordable viable replacement for their rack and pinion, Detroit Axle makes a very nice setup. I found mine on eBay through their online store for $140 shipped. Official Link: https://detroitaxle.com/shop/steering/complete-power-steering-rack-pinion-assembly-subaru-impreza-forester-legacy/ eBay Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151202399756 They're remanufactured in Detroit and they provide a lifetime warranty on the rack when you ship the old one back. I'm going to just ship back the rack on my parts car as part of the warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 I wish I had know about that when I did my rack. re-Made in USA. I'm sure mine was re-made in Mexico. This one has been ok, but the first reman I got started leaking right away so I had to do the job again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 I wish I had know about that when I did my rack. re-Made in USA. I'm sure mine was re-made in Mexico. This one has been ok, but the first reman I got started leaking right away so I had to do the job again. Not trying to start a debate but just because it's made out of country doesn't necessarily mean it's junk. At my job at a parts place, we sent back like 3 pallets worth of brake pads one time because it turns out the Mexican plant slightly overheated them in manufacturing, they can be made out of country and held to the same standards. They wouldn't sell shit stuff if they know there is a problem with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 True, Zeiss is made out of country, and they're pretty good. I do prefer to shop local, though. Even if local involves 50 different states. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 On a side note, be really careful when rebuilding the PS pump and if you can, do research on how to. They SEEM very simple inside but mine still died after using that same rebuild kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 On a side note, be really careful when rebuilding the PS pump and if you can, do research on how to. They SEEM very simple inside but mine still died after using that same rebuild kit Thanks, I am pretty sure the pump is leaking from the input shaft seal, which is included. I've been looking into tutorials on rebuilding it. It doesn't look too hard, the most troublesome part of the rebuild is the input shaft. The pump is already a remanufactured unit from 2015, so the other seals should be in good condition. The Gates kit was the only one I could find without waiting on the dealer to order it and wait a week and a half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 I fear the is a PS pump rebuild in my near future as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 Problems I need to take care of soon: 1.) I have a slight power steering leak from the pump reservoir that I didn't have before and the power steering rack needs to be rebuilt as it is leaking from some of the seals around the bellows. I have a rebuild kit for the rack and new bellows to go along with it 2.) Both CV axle inner boot are completely worn out and have separated. There isn't any dirt inside the joint and the grease is still inside the joints, so I have new boots and synthetic CV grease that I will be rebuilding them with. 3.) Transmission needs a fluid change. I don't know the service history on the transmission and I want to do it for better piece of mind. Since it has 146k miles on the clock, drain and refill the transmission, replace the filters, and I should be good to go. I don't have any transmission issues, and I don't want to in the future. 4.) Both differentials are going to get some attention. I intend to drain both the front and rear and replace the fluid with some high quality synthetic gear oil for longer life and cooler temperatures. 5.) Rear shocks need help. They're bouncy but not overly bouncy. Too much for my tastes. I'm looking into a good coilover setup, but I don't want to lose any of my ride height. 1.) Done. Ordered a new rack from Detroit Axle and despite taking almost two weeks to get here due to "unknown delays in processing" it is in. I need to figure out how to bleed the rack as it feels like there are some air bubbles in it. Certain turns feel spongy despite the reservoir being full. The new rack was for a 01-05 Impreza and 00-04 Outback, but it bolted right up with minor issues (lines had to be bent down to clear the tunnel on the subframe). I also replaced the tie rod ends with ACDelco Professional ends with a lifetime warranty and installed Whiteline poly bushings with the rack. Steering performance is definitely improved. 2.) Done. CV Axles were a breeze to rebuild. Took me about 20 minutes per axle to rebuild them. Internals were a little worn, but nothing excessive and they don't make any noise or bind up when I did my figure 8 testing after my alignment. 3-5.) Not done yet. Waiting to move into my new house before I do this. I upgraded my front brakes to carbon ceramic pads and slotted/drilled rotors and WOW do they make a difference over the old organic pads and rotors that were in the car. Expensive, but worth it. The pedal still feels spongy so I am going to bleed the system and track down a master cylinder brace. Installed Kicker 6.5 speakers in the front doors to replace the tired old 18 year old speakers. I installed my Pioneer AVIC-5000NEX deck into the car too so now I am further living in luxury with Nav and Bluetooth audio. All I need is my backup camera installed. I had an idea last night while I unloading a bed from the back hatch of my car (entire queen sized sleep number fit in the hatch with the seats down). My car doesn't have a key fob, despite having the keyless entry module under the dash. I have a key fob from a newer Legacy with the Alpine alarm and went through the programming procedure as some 99's had the Alpine alarm. Programming was unsuccessful, I'm unsure as to what I am doing wrong. Maybe my car doesn't have the pioneer keyless alarm system, I digress. My idea is that since the hatch locks with the rest of the doors, I was going to install a power lock switch in the hatch panel where the pull handle is. This way I don't need to walk all the way back to the driver's or passenger door to lock my doors. Older vans and SUV's employed this type of switch, I thought it would be a nice touch to have. EDIT: I no longer have the spongy feeling in the steering rack. I think the air bubbles must have worked themselves out with driving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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