Whopper Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 dang Nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 (edited) I noticed there was two colors of black interiors, a few of my panels are a lighter black than the others, it's kind of annoying Yeah its kind of weird. I have the passenger door panel out of the Limited (only one worthy of swapping with mine) and it doesn't really match the dash from the same car... In other news I found a brand new driver side panel (94215AC031ML) for a '99 OBW limited for $82 on this website! Mine is looking rough from 20 years of abuse. I also ordered the front windshield top and right and left trim for when I replace the windshield, a new oem gauge cluster plastic glass and a new oem cargo net. dang Nice It's getting there! Not fast enough though. I'm still trying to deal with getting the title straightened out. When it was re-registered in Texas from Colorado they made a 2 digit error with the vin number. My registration expired in november but hopefully I can get the title updated soon and be driving this thing and not worried about getting pulled over. I got the JDM garnish and tails installed but the garnish is a weird color. I think it may be the tinted version. I ordered another non tinted garnish and will be selling this one. Still working on getting the badge residue off... For the life of me I couldn't get the rear window trim to go over the garnish...my buddy at the body shop told me that when we paint the maroon hatch he will remove the rear glass and put it back on after the garnish is in. http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/Subaru%20Outback/IMG_1056.jpg Edited February 15, 2017 by SLW-SVT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Use non-chlorinated brake clean for the residue. It's paint safe and melts that sticky crap away. Apply it to a rag and wipe it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Right on, I'll give that a try. So I really want to put the new carpet in but I have a few things that need to be addressed first. 1. One of the seat bolts on the driver side seat (the one that connects to the transmission tunnel) has broken the threaded portion in the body shell off. the bolt spins but thats it. Not sure how I'm going to address this as theres only a little bit of slop. It will be very hard to get a reciprocation blade in there to cut the bolt off. 2. The carpet on the passenger side front seems slightly damp all the time. It's not soaked at all just not dry either. I can't find anything that stands out or where its coming from. 3 .The seat rails are slightly rusty and I don't want to stain the new carpet with rust like it is now. I would like to take the seat apart and sand the rusty portion down and prime and paint the whole assembly. Any recommendations on what paint I should be using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 For 1 you could spend a lot of time with a dremel cutoff wheel. Is it a blind nut that has come unwelded? I don't know what you can do about the new one in that case. One of my trans mount blind nuts broke off like that and I had to drill an access from inside to be able to put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choover1101 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 For #2 check your coolant often. There is a chance that your heater core is seeping. If your car smells like antifreeze inside and you are loosing coolant that would be my first guess if both are happening. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 +1 for heater core leaking I'd try to drill out that bolt first, it's a pretty large bolt so it shouldn't be too bad to drill through it and use an extractor to remove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Okay I'll check out the heater core. I don't smell anything abnormal in the car and I haven't used the heater...not sure if that matters or not. So now my problem is putting the oil temp needle back in properly. I took it out with the intention of putting the gray overlay from the '99 in my cluster to replace the black but quickly decided against it after i broke the needle... (I tried to swap out the whole cluster but the rpm and oil temp part didn't work) I'm trying to put it back in correctly and set it to the bottom but when I start the car it jumps up to running temp and then goes up from there. I tried putting the cluster in without the plastic cover so that I can stick the needle in when the car is warmed up. I put it in at the running temp position but then it just shoots up to hot right away. Is there a trick to doing this correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 taking the clusters apart is a pain, I've broken two tachs and a bunch of needles by messing with them. What I did with the engine temp gauge is I removed the bottom stopper peg and then installed the needle so that it is slightly below where the peg normally goes, then I move the need upwards until I can get the stopper peg in place, that way the needle won't float about and it should now stop in the OEM place once it reaches operating temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted February 26, 2017 Author Share Posted February 26, 2017 That was the ticket. I think I'm good now. Somehow my Photobucket album for this car got deleted so I may have to go back through and re-upload and edit my post:( I got the title to the car today! I just need to go register it and I can finally drive it to work (legally) again! The projectors are in. I need to restore the driver side still, get new low beam bulbs and wire up the city lights to my parking lights. I'll eventually do the rhd to lhd conversion too. I got two quotes from some retrofitters to do the conversion and one was $300 and the other was $700....so I'll do it myself lol. That's suspension mod money! I went with new male and female 9007 plugs. http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/97%20Outback/IMG_1091.jpg http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/97%20Outback/IMG_1092.jpg http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/97%20Outback/IMG_1093.jpg Future city lights http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/97%20Outback/IMG_1089.jpg I'll get pics once the driver side is sanded and polished and I get new bulbs. I think I will go with the Philips Xtreme Vision for now since AutoZone has them in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 I may want that center taillight section if the price was right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedeadhp Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I'm thinking the same thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Well good think I kept the box for the second one! I will for sure sell it to one of you two for a good price. So I have $2k to spend on my suspension in preparation for autocross and an eventual STI swap. Here's what I'm thinking so far: BC Racing Coilovers- Great product for the price range. I can get a 1" extended tube for the rear so I don't have to get saggy butt spacers that may cause me to not be able to use a rear tower brace. Front Sway bar- Something from an Imprezza so that it will clear a future turbo subframe brace. Not sure what brand to get? Whiteline? Cheaper alternatives? Rear Sway bar- again what brand is best and I'm not sure if I should get different sizes for front and rear. Swaybar links- Whiteline is super expensive, perrin is about $50 cheaper and I saw some steel ones but can't remember the brand. Strut Braces- I need to research the fronts more to figure out compatibility with a TMIC Cusco chassis brace- I've read that these make a very noticeable difference in chassis rigidity and will definitely be picking one up. Obviously all that I listed is more than 2K so I need to figure out what will be the most beneficial for now and get the rest later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 Oh yeah and I figured out why the CEL has been flashing since the dash install...I had the green diagnostic connectors plugged in. Unplugged it and not CEL now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 I made the mistake of plugging those two together right when I got the car, that gave me a mini heart attack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Check the rules for your organization's AX. Some changes may make you run in a class that you don't want. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 I got some work done on the car today and received some new OEM parts in the mail! I got the top, right and left windshield trim, new instrument cluster "glass" and a new cargo net. http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/97%20Outback/IMG_1112.jpg I was surprised that the cargo net included the mounting hardware and detailed instruction and templates for installing the net so anyone can add a cargo net to their wagon. The part number is: F5510AS011 http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/97%20Outback/IMG_1113.jpg I got the city lights wired up: http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/97%20Outback/IMG_1114.jpg http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/uu48/eocullins/97%20Outback/IMG_1116.jpg And I got some NGK spark plugs installed. I have wires but they were the wrong ones even though Amazon says they will fit my car (NGK 8931). Kind of sucks since I had everything out... I ended up breaking the bolt that hold the fuse box panel and windshield washer reservoir and broke my extractor bit trying to get it out:( I started putting the JDM sidemarker lights in but they don't work well with the stock Outback door trim so I won't be using them until I can find the slim trim pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 Check the rules for your organization's AX. Some changes may make you run in a class that you don't want. O. I've raced with the Houston SCCA in my 03 F150 Lightning a few years ago and they didn't have different classes that I was aware of. I will be sure to check the rules out though. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 2004 STI BBS wheels coming soon!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedeadhp Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Yes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pikachu Posted April 15, 2020 Share Posted April 15, 2020 (edited) I know that this post is from a few years ago, but I was wondering if you remember how you installed the lighted sun visors into the 1997; was the car already prewired? Did you have to go fishing for the wires somewhere in the dash, or were the wires already there when you unscrewed the original sun visors? Edited April 15, 2020 by Pikachu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted April 16, 2020 Author Share Posted April 16, 2020 I know that this post is from a few years ago, but I was wondering if you remember how you installed the lighted sun visors into the 1997; was the car already prewired? Did you have to go fishing for the wires somewhere in the dash, or were the wires already there when you unscrewed the original sun visors? i never wired them up but its only two wires. i was going tap into the dome lights since im running all leds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 My 1995 Legacy L did not have wires for the visors when I had the headliner out. I don't know for sure if that info crosses to your application. Just putting it out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pikachu Posted April 16, 2020 Share Posted April 16, 2020 Thanks for your responses. I guess it must have been a dealer install option or something. I'll have to do a little more research. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 Thanks for your responses. I guess it must have been a dealer install option or something. I'll have to do a little more research. Thanks again. No it was definitely there from the factory on the outback limited. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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