Zombaru Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 My Vf46 was on its way out. Shaft play in and out was getting to a point I was worrying for my engine. So? I swapped it out for a td06-20G With 1000cc injectors, EWG, fuel pump, MBC. The basic stuff. I'm at 20psi making 300~whp/300tqish and its fun as hell... Just too lagy. I mean I can downshift when its necessary for some boost. I live on the prairies and the open roads and high end feels awesome however, I spend much more time taking off from stop lights. I drive to work and back primarily. I miss the quick response I feel in the girlfriends (stock) 5th gen but HATE... no... loathe the wheezing top end. I feel a td05-18G Or even a 52 would be a better. My 1000cc are probably over-kill for a 52 but it also hits -35C here in the winter often. (before any wind chill) Looking for just some outside observations, tips, or personal experiences etc. ALSO make sure you Really know what you want before you go ahead and buy something completely car altering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Good to hear first-hand observations. Not envying you the -35 degree weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 I imagine that setup must be pretty nice for passing semi-trucks on the highway. Did you notice gas mileage improve with that turbo? How did the cold weather play into your injector choice? I know you're looking for observations so please forgive the questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombaru Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 Nah nah I was hoping for this too. At only 20psi I feel I'm not doing this turbo any justice. That said pulling strong to 6500 with the ewg screaming is amazing. So passing semis is quite fun. Fuel economy is meh I mean I'm arguably not in boost as much as I was with the vf46. you need to make sure that you have able room in front of you because that space closes quick. So you could say I'm saving fuel by not being in boost as often as I used to be. Regular cruising mileage is the same as when I was stage 2. However I'm also using a lot of fuel just spooling up damn thing just to have to let off right away for what ever reason may present itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need bb Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 When do you make full boost? I would think a TD06-20G would make full boost around 4000RPMs and be closer to 330-350WHP at 20psi. I am running a TD05-20G and usually see full boost by 3500 RPMs in 3rd gear. I don't think the turbo is laggy, and I actually wish I went slightly bigger. That being said the LGT platform isn't good in general when it comes to turbo lag. A tuned MK7 GTI can make 300lb-ft of torque by 2500 RPMs which is in a totally different league compared to the LGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 When do you make full boost? I would think a TD06-20G would make full boost around 4000RPMs and be closer to 330-350WHP at 20psi. I can usually get the 8cm2 TD06-20G to full boost by 3k6rpm in (my benchmark) 4th gear, unless there's something like a weak actuator, loose BPV, big-tube header etc. to slow things down. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 When do you make full boost? bump. I can usually get the 8cm2 TD06-20G to full boost by 3k6rpm That would certainly be ideal on a 20g. coupled with a 6MT this would be pretty impressive street turbo setup, I'm sure. Your setup is a little more "involved" I think with forged internals though. I've read elsewhere that the TD06- can spool rather low. OP, a 52 is definately the most popular choice it seems though in terms of reliablity and research abundance that is available from the many threads. It's basically the spool characteristics of the 46 down low but more tunable power later on in the rev range and ability to hold boost compared to the 46 which tapers off boost much faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 You want an equal length header and/or twinscroll:) The neck snapping torque of a small turbo is fun, but your car is still faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Boost junkies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 May I recommend a KillerB Holy header, and a Blouch Dominator 1.5xtr? Seems the Dom1.5, with a quality header, is really the way to go for a stock location turbo in a Subaru if you want good spool and gobs of power without going twin scroll EFR. I've got a VF52. Spools noticeably later than my VF40 did... but it makes increasing power all the way to 6,500. I personally love the linear power delivery much more than the "punch" of a smaller snail. Truthfully though... that power is only useful at 80+mph when your dragging the taller gears. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 I've got a VF52. Spools noticeably later than my VF40 did... but it makes increasing power all the way to 6,500. I personally love the linear power delivery much more than the "punch" of a smaller snail. Truthfully though... that power is only useful at 80+mph when your dragging the taller gears. Mimics my experience moving to a a VF52. Although, I am calling it "quick" not fast. The M4 is fast, this is just reasonable. Something similar to the Dom1.5xtr and KBHH are my long term goals. Everything else seems to give up a lot in either spool, power, or both. However, based on dyno graphs the HTA 68, seemed to have a slightly later spool than a VF52 (not much) and hold power to redline a lot better. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 As the owner of a HTA68 and a PW tmic, 19.2lbs was more than enough. Motor made 335lbs of tq from 4k - 7k. I kept the revs around 5k whenever I drove it (so mostly 3rd or 4th gear). 1000cc injectors are too big, as you want the injectors running 95% most of the time. If your car accelerates slow, you need lighter wheels & tires. 7lbs per corner really changes how the car moves (went from 18x8 rpf1 to 19x8 rays). Depending who tuned your car, you might revisit for a more useful tune, too. Tell them what your 90% driving is, not your 5% wishful thinking is. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombaru Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 you need lighter wheels & tires. Haha, im still using the stock 08/09 Spec.B rims. could probably lose a few pounds. When do you make full boost? I would think a TD06-20G would make full boost around 4000RPMs and be closer to 330-350WHP at 20psi. Full boost in 4th gear is 3600-4000 in there. However all I have is virtual dyno to tell me power so who knows what the power really is. I was at 276 stage 2 (17psi) so even if my numbers are off the gains are there. Nearest actual dyno is 8 hours and across the US Border. I've been doing all my tuning with Nemesis Performance. Local guy, knows his stuff. I digress, possibly like how I got used to the Exxedy stage 1 HD I can get the hang of this turbo, the daily drive is just mostly boostless. thanks for all your replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 As the owner of a HTA68 and a PW tmic, 19.2lbs was more than enough. Motor made 335lbs of tq from 4k - 7k. I kept the revs around 5k whenever I drove it (so mostly 3rd or 4th gear). 1000cc injectors are too big, as you want the injectors running 95% most of the time. If your car accelerates slow, you need lighter wheels & tires. 7lbs per corner really changes how the car moves (went from 18x8 rpf1 to 19x8 rays). Depending who tuned your car, you might revisit for a more useful tune, too. Tell them what your 90% driving is, not your 5% wishful thinking is. This is complete nonsense and will blow your car up when it gets cold. 95% IDC during the summer is 105%+ in winter. Edit: aren't you the one that blew up his car and hasn't had a running LGT in a few years? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Edit: aren't you the one that blew up his car and hasn't had a running LGT in a few years? Hey, just a noob question here. Is it necessary to headline an Edit: on a post that does not appear to have been posted and edited as it usually shows at the bottom said edited post:redface:. Or is it that you got excited about your comment and decided that Edit: would capture the point you're attempting to make a little better? See that thing down there with the edit mumbo jumbo, where is that thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need bb Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 It looks like you are spooling right around the target RPM, but you should be expecting much higher in virtual dyno. A TD06-20G should be 60-80WHP more than the stock VF40/VF46 with the proper intercooler and fueling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 This is complete nonsense and will blow your car up when it gets cold. 95% IDC during the summer is 105%+ in winter. Edit: aren't you the one that blew up his car and hasn't had a running LGT in a few years? Uh-huh - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/injector-headroom-required-summer-vs-winteri-255508.html . It depends on the tune, hence, why I suggested contacting the tuner to get it fixed? I blew my HG about 3 years ago and then went thru a series of heads/machine shops getting it fixed. However not sure what this has to do with this thread or your input to it? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Uh-huh - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/injector-headroom-required-summer-vs-winteri-255508.html . It depends on the tune, hence, why I suggested contacting the tuner to get it fixed? I blew my HG about 3 years ago and then went thru a series of heads/machine shops getting it fixed. However not sure what this has to do with this thread or your input to it? Fuel flow increases up to 103%. That does not mean that you should be running your injectors at 95%idc. Change in temp, elevation, etc can all change your fuel requirements. What was ok at 70* and 5000ft will now run lean and blow your car up at sealevel and 32* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Edit: aren't you the one that blew up his car and hasn't had a running LGT in a few years? Hey, just a noob question here. Is it necessary to headline an Edit: on a post that does not appear to have been posted and edited as it usually shows at the bottom said edited post:redface:. Or is it that you got excited about your comment and decided that Edit: would capture the point you're attempting to make a little better? See that thing down there with the edit mumbo jumbo, where is that thing? If you edit and save immediately after you post, the box indicating an edit will not show up. I think there is either a couple minute grace period or it is based on if someone else has viewed the post since you posted, but before you edited. Edit - Did this after I posted... Edit 2 - Did this after I posted the above edit... Edit 3 - Did this after I posted the above edit... Edit 4 - Now I'm just curious... Edit 5 - I'm done now... Edit 6 - Notification finally showed up after Edit 5 BTW - I fixed the quote for you in my quote. The OP has an excellent point when picking a turbo. I remember there was a guy from Hawaii looking at turbos a while back. There are not many straight roads there. A 20G made little sense due to the spool time. Why put something on you are not going to use. In his case, a faster spooling turbo made sense, along with good brakes. One could argue not to get an HTA68 if you are not going E85. (I swear I'm not picking on you Boxkita. I had one in my car and had a lot of experience with it) They really don't start to shine (IMHO) until they are in the higher boost range(>20psi). I'm not saying it is a bad turbo. I loved mine with pump gas, but I didn't see a lot of benefit from it until I switched to E85. It was life changing after that. My only regret was not putting on a header to see how it affected spool. I really think that would have helped. That brings me to another point. Supporting mods are huge when it comes to choosing a turbo. In my case, with an HTA68 on E85, I didn't get full spool until after 4K. The tune did everything it could to try to get it spool as quickly as possible. I'm guessing that my factory headers were holding it back slightly and I could have picked up a couple hundred RPM on the low end. At the end of the day, you need to determine if you want your car to be quick or fast to determine what turbo you get. I'm not sure they make a turbo that will do both for this car. Although you can always argue the definition of "quick" and the definition of "fast" too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 the LGT platform isn't good in general when it comes to turbo lag. A tuned MK7 GTI can make 300lb-ft of torque by 2500 RPMs which is in a totally different league compared to the LGT. yes, the mk7 gti and new golf R are beasts indeed. I watched an R take off from 60-100mph like a supercar on the freeway a couple months ago. Those things can run in the 11's with the basic exhaust/fueling upgrades and tune. If you edit and save immediately after you post, the box indicating an edit will not show up. I think there is either a couple minute grace period or it is based on if someone else has viewed the post since you posted, but before you edited. Edit - Did this after I posted... Edit 2 - Did this after I posted the above edit... Edit 3 - Did this after I posted the above edit... Edit 4 - Now I'm just curious... Edit 5 - I'm done now... Edit 6 - Notification finally showed up after Edit 5 BTW - I fixed the quote for you in my quote. Nice one, thanks. I figured it was a good learning oppurtunity and would help diffuse some incoming drama A little scenario here for *cough* field research purposes. I was stuck behind a semi entering an on ramp and gave him plenty of space. I knew there was a second lane opening so meh, did'nt phase me. An Evo came up and got within two feet of my rear bumper, pressing me like a douche driver would. The lane opened up and I was ~4 car lengths ahead with the pedal mashed in third. He tried to keep up too. Slowed back down to normal highway speed and upon inspection of the emblems, it was 2015 final edition - Mitsubishis' great sendoff to the Lancer platform. I was quite content with my 9 year old stage 2 LGT compared to a brand new $50k sports sedan : ) what's fast and/or quick is a relative matter in terms of what people want out of a tuner car. Different strokes, as they say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 This is complete nonsense and will blow your car up when it gets cold. 95% IDC during the summer is 105%+ in winter. Edit: aren't you the one that blew up his car and hasn't had a running LGT in a few years? somebody needs a sammich. In all seriousness... Boxkita's input is very valued 'round here. He's got a bit more experience pushing this platform than many of the rest of us do. And all of us regulars(I'm sure you included) saw the sh*t storm he went through trying to find somewhere that could machine a set of heads properly. That being said, I do agree with you regarding max IDC, as I never understood why it was optimal to be running injectors at the ragged edge of safety. My ID1000's rarely reach above 66%IDC, and the wagon drives just fine. However, I probably just don't know enough about the subject to make an educated opinion. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 what does 100% idc really mean? Doesn't it mean that the injector is no longer pulsing, meaning it flows fuel without interuption? If this reasoning is correct, then what is the difference between 100% idc and 103% idc? I guess I could google the answer On another note my 06 sees 98% idc at times when I push it in fourth (stock turbo, injectors and fuel pump). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 I believe 100% duty cycle is static(I.e.- open) injector condition. Anything above that is just ECU "calculated" and not physically possible, meaning while the paramemeter may show 105% IDC that's just what the ECU wants and not what it can get. So perhaps a lean condition? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Tldr mtb is right. http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/injector-duty-cycle Another good post. Why over 100 might still work http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2802380-post24.html? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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