Brighton96 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 some non bake oven cleaner works great for the carbon build up. any plans to replace rings and clean the oil drain backs on the pistons? No I don't plan to split the block and do the rings and bearings, that's well beyond my Subaru know-how so I wouldn't do it unless I had a Subaru guru to help me with it. I'm just cleaning up as much of the build up that I can and replace all the other parts I recently used something called Berryman's Chem Dip to clean up some old pistons. Stuff was amazing and worked exactly as advertised--soak for a bit, remove, wipe off. Removed every last bit of carbon build up. Oh yeah that stuff is awesome, it's rather pricey for a gallon though. I ended up cleaning everything by hand, it takes longer but less risk of chemical change (I had issue with strong degreaser on bare aluminum before) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Day 7 Today was mostly spent cleaning, I got as much of the carbon build up off of the pistons as I could be bothered to, I got as much of the old gasket material off of the cylinder head mating surface, I removed the engine mounts and got them cleaned up. I swapped the oil pump but didn't seal it up yet and replaced some o-rings. I flipped the motor on it's side and I have 2 of the pistons soaking in marvel mystery oil overnight so that I can clean the loose carbon out of the rings. Tomorrow I will also have to oil up the cylinder walls and bar the motor over a few times to make sure there isn't dirt anywhere in the combustion chamber and to make sure the rings are freed up (not that they are) Pro Tip -Be VERY careful of the IAC/PVC T fitting, they get super brittle and the part number for a new one is 11821AA450 (I broke mine) Before and after http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0527_zpsh99bgl9h.jpg http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0529_zps29rxlosa.jpg Oil pump surface before and after http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0533_zpszfcccxxb.jpg http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0536_zpskdy8vvyv.jpg http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0537_zpsg0kmauk8.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Day 7 I flipped the motor on it's side and I have 2 of the pistons soaking in marvel mystery oil overnight so that I get the dirt out of the rings that was surely put there from cleaning the pistons. I also noticed my master gasket kit doesn't include the 2 O-rings for the coolant crossover pipe that runs diagonally across the top of the motor. so you did get those pistons out. its easier than you thought huh, no spiting the case just the access holes to get the piston pins out. you're smarter than me for being hesitant i went up shit creek with a turd for a paddle and had to learn engine building 101 real quick when i decided to dive into mine. your light idea is brilliant, my old chevy had one under the hood. i wish subaru had them or i understood witchcraft (aka electricity) enough to do what you're doing yeah you definitely don't want dirt to scratch up your cylinder walls or in the combustion chamber it smells really bad for a minute on start up if you do. accidentally did it on a newer forester on a valve cover job, you have to move the fuel rail out of the way. i tried to vacuum dirt away from the injectors but some still got in the combustion chamber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Next time you have to clean off carbon from anything, go straight for Easy Off, or any over cleaner. It'll do the job quick and efficiently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 so you did get those pistons out. its easier than you thought huh, no spiting the case just the access holes to get the piston pins out. you're smarter than me for being hesitant i went up shit creek with a turd for a paddle and had to learn engine building 101 real quick when i decided to dive into mine. your light idea is brilliant, my old chevy had one under the hood. i wish subaru had them or i understood witchcraft (aka electricity) enough to do what you're doing yeah you definitely don't want dirt to scratch up your cylinder walls or in the combustion chamber it smells really bad for a minute on start up if you do. accidentally did it on a newer forester on a valve cover job, you have to move the fuel rail out of the way. i tried to vacuum dirt away from the injectors but some still got in the combustion chamber. I was under the impression that subarus were like older cars where the piston to connecting rod pin needs to be pressed in, if it is as easy as opening the access port and removing the piston safety clip, I would have done the rings. But I'm running out of time and money so the rings will have to be left alone. On the topic of the light thing, I'll make a write up once I figure out how to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Day 8 Today was pretty productive since I finally found my in-lb torque wrench and I could now get everything torqued down properly. I got the rebuilt power steering pump reassembled. I cleaned up the oil pan and windage tray a little more thoroughly before sealing the oil pan up for good (with the new racing drain pan bolt haha) I got the oil pump preoiled, inspected and sealed in place, both of the heads are now complete, the HLAs are all flushed and everything is torqued to perfect subaru spec so they are ready to go back onto the motor. I cleaned up with oil/air separator area and sealed the new metal plate in place. I lubed up all of the combustion chambers and there was a surprising amount of dirt in the rings from cleaning it yesterday Pro Tip -Use your M6-1.0 and M7-1.0 die and an impact wrench/ratchet to quickly and easily clean the junk out of the threads of all the bolts. -Lube up all the rubber gaskets/o-rings with some clean motor oil (I found out the old valve cover bolt grommets were all cracked in a twisted pattern even though they were installed less than a year ago) Rebuilt power steering pump http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subaru%204_zpsd5hqdf1c.jpg The two heads cleaned up, painted, reassembled and ready to go http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subaru%207_zpsxoe5y520.jpg This was how the windage tray and oil pick up looked after the second clean up, I soaked everything in my purple power solution bucket and it loosed up all the stuff I missed before. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subaru%209_zps5v4nsdst.jpg My car had the infamous plastic oil air separator plate which was installed with tapered screws that sit flush in the plastic plate, and since I went with the metal one, the tapered screws don't seat nicely so I ended up using M6-1.0 1/4in bolts with locktite. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subaru%2011_zpsz4swuesh.jpg Here's the old plate and hardware I was talking about above http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subaru%2012_zpsnmy8sawl.jpg I also found some mystery gunk on my coolant temp sensors, the yellow crap was similar to liquid yellow paint, I have no idea what it was but that's why these sensors are getting replaced. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subaru%2015_zpsetckwqxx.jpg I had the one bank soaking in marvel mystery oil and I noticed none of it got past the rings in a few hours of soaking, I even looked up at the piston skirts through the oil pan and there was no oil to be found. So that's my ghetto way to know my rings are ok, plus if they were sticking before this, they won't now since they have all been soaking for hours. The other side is soaking overnight so lets hope that side is good too. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subaru%202_zpsuhoawof5.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Coolant temp sensors? So there *are* two of them, one for the cluster gauge and one for the ECU? I thought that was the case, but I looked in the FSM and didn't see it. I expect that is why my stuck tstat didn't do anything on the needle, but the ECU through Torque-android showed hot. Where is that smaller one mounted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Coolant temp sensors? So there *are* two of them, one for the cluster gauge and one for the ECU? I thought that was the case, but I looked in the FSM and didn't see it. I expect that is why my stuck tstat didn't do anything on the needle, but the ECU through Torque-android showed hot. Where is that smaller one mounted? Yes there are two, I don't know what each one is for. Everything I can find says they are both for gauges but one says its for brightons only. Both sensors are right next to each other, there is a cross over pipe that attaches to the upper radiator hose and runs diagonally cross the top of the motor, they are screwed in right below where the IACV is. I'll get you a picture tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 these are nice to prime the motor and with it reassembled on your bench you can check for oil leaks on all the new seals before you start it back up and hope for the best.(I wish i did that before i installed the motor back in my car that's why i suggest it). its fairly cheap for the benefits it provides. and you can use it to clean up your engine bay when you don't need it anymore, just choose your preferred degreaser, filling tranny fluid... check it out... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 these are nice to prime the motor and with it reassembled on your bench you can check for oil leaks on all the new seals before you start it back up and hope for the best.(I wish i did that before i installed the motor back in my car that's why i suggest it). its fairly cheap for the benefits it provides. and you can use it to clean up your engine bay when you don't need it anymore, just choose your preferred degreaser, filling tranny fluid... check it out... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html I was going to prime it but I was probably just going to fill it up with oil and turn it over with a drill, but that other method is pretty clever so I'll try it that way first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I know where the multi wire one is. I guess I just didn't notice the other one next to it. Or else Dave is pulling out memory cards again. Ever since the little thing with the door... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 I know where the multi wire one is. I guess I just didn't notice the other one next to it. Or else Dave is pulling out memory cards again. Ever since the little thing with the door... I think this was only a brighton thing.. for whatever reason but here they are http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0531_zpshs3ray9i.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Day 9 So yesterday I soaked the other bank in marvel and only a small amount got past the rings in the 12+ hours of soaking so I'm pretty happy with that. In the final stages now! I got both of the heads installed, I installed the new coolant temp sensors in the crossover pipe and then installed that pipe as well. I swapped over the fans from the old radiator onto the new one (I had to cut two bolts and had the head snap off on a third bolt.. so that was fun) I removed the headers and got a coat of ceramic paint on them, the bolts had to be soaked in PB blaster, heated up with a torch and I had to sit on it with the 400ft-lb impact to get the bolts to come free. Here's how I left he engine today http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0527_zps3pfavkzk.jpg I test fit the intake to see what I had to change and so far so good. I will have to move some wires around and I found out that the new harness is the same as my car, so I get to use the new reloomed and cleaned up harness instead of the crusty one. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0535_zpsywvunrgj.jpg The headers before http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0532_zpsmsyq210j.jpg and after paint. I coated it with VHT Flameproof flat black ceramic paint (it'll smoke during the first heat cycle) http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0536_zpsrlj1u81z.jpg The radiator with all the new shiney hardware, I also wiped down all the plastics with a conditioner to put a little moisture back into it in hopes of keeping it from getting too brittle http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0545_zps2dicl3mc.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW-SVT Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 and here I am worrying about changing spark plugs for the first time... nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 and here I am worrying about changing spark plugs for the first time... nice work! Honestly that stuff still scares me, I'm 2 for 3 for having threads strip on this motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Day 10 I had the first pretty big roadblock today, I started installing the timing components and one of the tensioner bolts stripped the threads out of the bracket, gotta love aluminum. But it didn't just mess up the threads, it tore out the material so I can't retap the threads. Guess who's buying a new bracket. Being that the motor is almost ready to go back in, I am running out of other things to do. So I test fit the intake and connected all the wires and hoses to make sure I won't have issues down the road, I did some wiring harness organization and got the harness ziptied up nice and neat. I filled in part of the header exhaust flange since it rusted out, I primed the engine and checked for leaks, so far no oil leaks and no mechanical issues. I used this method to prime the engine. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...nk-214760.html Pro Tip -Buy a box of latex gloves and wear them as much as possible (my hands are shedding from being washed and soaked in chemicals so frequently) I also started replacing all the old OEM clamps in the engine bay and I replaced the bushings on the rack and pinion. I found out that the wiring harness will be touching the crossover coolant pipe, so I used that as a justification to buy 8mm intake spacers. I will also try to helicoil the bracket before ordering a new one. So that'll probably be what I'll be doing most of tomorrow. Don't expect much for tomorrow's write up haha. Here was one of the bolt holes on the flange, it seems to be a common thing for these things to rust out on subarus. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0528_zps3jfxqlfj.jpg After filling it in with a gutless welder and after grinding back a lot of the slag. It looks horrible in my opinion but it's functional. I painted it after this picture was taken so it looks slightly better now. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0533_zps8qgujetv.jpg Everything is mocked up, test fitted and torqued down so this is close to how it'll look in the car http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0536_zpsctzrthua.jpg I also sanded down the mating surfaces of the exhaust flanges. Just 100 grit and a section of 2x4 and a little elbow grease. Hopefully it won't leak. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0541_zpsagnhn9kd.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Great work. On the cars that use two temp sensors, the single wire is for the gauge, the connector goes to the ECU, which reads the coolant temp and thereby controls the IAC etc. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Day 11 It was a pretty short day, I am running out of stuff to do. To get a new tensioner was anywhere from $80-140 but then I'd have to pay extra to get it here in a timely manner, so I found a helicoil kit for the M8-1.25 bolts and I successfully got it re-threaded for $24 so I'm happy with that, I noticed there is room in the bracket for about half an inch more of bolt, so I'm also going to get a longer bolt as an extra precaution. Otherwise, all I did today was degrease the crap out of the engine bay. Here's the engine bay after a few minutes of pressure washing and degreasing. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0529_zpst3ctxvza.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 I would seek out dual port heads or a higher flowing header. Just my $.02c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 I would seek out dual port heads or a higher flowing header. Just my $.02c. Trust me, I seriously considered it. Then I could have gotten read UEL headers. But the company I got the heads from didn't have a set of phase 1 dual ports in stock. I worried I'd have issues with interchangeability of intake, cam gears, timing belt and cams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Trust me, I seriously considered it. Then I could have gotten read UEL headers. But the company I got the heads from didn't have a set of phase 1 dual ports in stock. I worried I'd have issues with interchangeability of intake, cam gears, timing belt and cams. Intake, cams, cam gears, and timing belt assembly will all swap over from Phase 1 22E dual port to Phase 1 22E single port heads. Subaru changed the exhaust ports for cost cutting. Everything else is mechanically compatible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 I wish I knew that earlier haha. That would have been better but extra costs involved with that, decent aftermarket duel port headers are a couple hundred. But I did some old school mods too so I should still get a little extra power out of the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 I completely forgot I had this sitting on the shelf, I'm temped to bypass the stock radiator trans cooler and run this external one instead. I'll pull the bumper off and look at space availability tomorrow. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0531_zpsiipupeat.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I wish I knew that earlier haha. That would have been better but extra costs involved with that, decent aftermarket duel port headers are a couple hundred. But I did some old school mods too so I should still get a little extra power out of the motor. Next time I come back on, I'll give you a list of mods to get the absolute maximum out of the stock EJ22E, even with single port, so no worries. I completely forgot I had this sitting on the shelf, I'm temped to bypass the stock radiator trans cooler and run this external one instead. I'll pull the bumper off and look at space availability tomorrow. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0531_zpsiipupeat.jpg Go or it. This will work well with a 4EAT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighton96 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Go for it. This will work well with a 4EAT. The trans is now rebuilt so I definitely what to make it last as long as possible haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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