Thors Twins Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 Gd evening folks 2010 legacy 2.5 sogc, 138000miles Driving home tonight uneventfully. Going uphill and something happens, check engine and brake light flash, engine loses power, limped into a parking lot, something like a clunking sounds, anything over idle was not good so only applied throttle just enough to avoid clunking sound. Shut off the engine, restarted later, shut off but no restart thereafter. No oil light, engine oil level normal, no observe able leaks from underneath, no loss of coolant, etc. Changed the timing belt, tensioner, with pulleys and water pump in april at 125k miles, Gates kit. What are chances tensioner gave out? Or maybe ignition coil pack, spark plug, maybe a sensor? Will go back and fit the scanner to read codes and report tomorrow morning Any input based on above information much appreciated Thnx Tim P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 14, 2016 Author Share Posted December 14, 2016 Follow up, stopped by car this morning on way to work. Codes P0301 cyl 1 misfire PO301 pd 301 cyl 1 misfire PO304 pd 304 cyl4 misfire Uncertain what the pd indication means especially with the repeat of 301 Engine turns over but no start. Didn't remove t belt cover to inspect belt, tensioner or pulleys yet. Is it possible problem with ignition system? Or if the tensioner failed, the belt has shifted causing a change in timing and the camshaft sensors are no longer synched with the crank position sensor, thus causing misfire? addtional: the plugs were also renewed in kind with NGK iridiums, same time as belt was done. Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nads Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 Is cylinder 1 and 4 on the same bank? Have you checked the oil and coolant for contamination from a blown head gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 1 & 4 are on different sides of the engine. I would visually look at the coils to see if anything obvious looks wrong with them as their have been a few coil around here recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 14, 2016 Author Share Posted December 14, 2016 Oil and coolant normal, head gaskets have not been an issue on this vehicle (unlike my other suby). Will look into coils - thnx this. As far as i know, coils (these are the type that sit on top of the spk plug) are original. Think this is a wasted spark arrangement? If so, would 1 & 4 cylinders work off the same signal? What relation is there to the blinking "BRAKE" light. occuring at the same time as the Engine light lit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 some ideas of things to look at....Crank pulley failed, crank position sensor, timing belt slipped and/or tensioner failed. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVAKeith Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 ...What relation is there to the blinking "BRAKE" light. occuring at the same time as the Engine light lit? Standard happenings that accompany the CEL. It's to get your attention. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dash-trouble-lights-258336.html?t=258336 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 14, 2016 Author Share Posted December 14, 2016 Cleared codes, engine started after a prolonged crank cycle, idles rough, engine knocking noise, removed left side T belt cover, belt not broken and has apparently tension. The coils appear to be in good order Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 Check with the owner's manual, but I think pd in the code reader would stand for a pending code. Misfires can occasionally happen, but the ecu will only throw a code if it's happened enough times to satisfy its programed threshold. I would check plugs, compression, and then injectors. The condition of the plugs may give you a clue as to what is wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nads Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 Engine knocking noise is not good. Is this an interference engine? Tension on the belt doesn't rule out that it slipped and jumped time. Is there a crank and/or cam position sensor(s)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 If the engine is misfiring currently, the cel will flash along with all the other lights to indicate a misfire which will cause damage to the catalyst in the converter if you continue to drive the car. I noticed on our tribeca the misfire would show as pending even while the cel was blinking indicating the misfire was indeed happening and not pending. That is the reason for the blinking CEL the other lights blinking just get your attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 I'd start with a compression test. Sounds like you might be buying a new motor. Pull all t-belt covers to be 100% sure it's not the tensioner prior to the compression test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nads Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 I'd start with a compression test. Sounds like you might be buying a new motor. Pull all t-belt covers to be 100% sure it's not the tensioner prior to the compression test. ^^this or you will get flawed results if it jumped time. I used a Gates kit on my WRX and two of the pulleys they sent were wrong so you might verify they are correct too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 As it is - don't run the engine any more until you have analyzed what's wrong. A clunking sound is never good in any engine. Better take of the belt covers and hand crank it to see if the timing is off or not by checking the markings. Also check all pulleys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 So far, looks like a skipped belt. Main pulley and pass. Side cam line up for TDC, but not the driver side cam. No.1 cyl coil appears to have some arcing. Stay tuned... Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 Engine knocking noise is not good. Is this an interference engine? Tension on the belt doesn't rule out that it slipped and jumped time. Is there a crank and/or cam position sensor(s)? To clarify, it's a misfire tone, no knocking. Re interference, don't think so. A failed CPS doesn't allow engine to fire at all. Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 To clarify, it's a misfire tone, no knocking. Re interference, don't think so. A failed CPS doesn't allow engine to fire at all. Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk That's what I suspected, that it was a misfire or mis-timing. Typically a knocking engine runs fairly smoothly, not like it's jumping out of the engine bay while barely running. Sounds like you're getting this diagnosed and sorted. Hopefully if the belt skipped on one bank of cylinders it didn't skip so much as to bend any valves. A compression test will help you determine if any got bent. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 That's what I suspected, that it was a misfire or mis-timing. Typically a knocking engine runs fairly smoothly, not like it's jumping out of the engine bay while barely running. Sounds like you're getting this diagnosed and sorted. Hopefully if the belt skipped on one bank of cylinders it didn't skip so much as to bend any valves. A compression test will help you determine if any got bent. Fingers crossed [emoji51] !!! Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Real question is why did it jump? Have you checked the tensioner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nads Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Glad your getting it sorted. Sucks when this happens and you have to things all over again. I remember on my WRX I did the timing belt, then had to do the radiator, then had to to the oil cooler seals, all in 5k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Real question is why did it jump? Have you checked the tensioner? Tensioner was renewed in April, approx. 10k miles in use. Why does a tensioner designed for 105k miles fail at a fraction of that? Is it the probability of failure, 1 in batch of 1000 will fail.... Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Tensioner was renewed in April, approx. 10k miles in use. Why does a tensioner designed for 105k miles fail at a fraction of that? Is it the probability of failure, 1 in batch of 1000 will fail.... Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk Can you take a pic of the tensioner? Gates changed up their kits at some point in time and we're putting in junk parts. Unfortunately, new aftermarket parts can be bad right out of the box or fail shortly after. At this point, you can't rule out anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Can you take a pic of the tensioner? Gates changed up their kits at some point in time and we're putting in junk parts. Unfortunately, new aftermarket parts can be bad right out of the box or fail shortly after. At this point, you can't rule out anything. Assume nothing is the course of action. Am gathering all items...With a name like Gates, you'd think you're purchasing top tier goods, simply to avoid this very problem. My forester belt is due soon; have always been DIY, however cannot warrantee my own work and my resources are limited, as well as my time, therefore planning for Subaru dealer to do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08SpecB_DE Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 Assume nothing is the course of action. Am gathering all items...With a name like Gates, you'd think you're purchasing top tier goods, simply to avoid this very problem. My forester belt is due soon; have always been DIY, however cannot warrantee my own work and my resources are limited, as well as my time, therefore planning for Subaru dealer to do the job. A majority of automotive parts are made in China, like everything else these days. Gates is great for certain products but I would not trust their timing belt component kits. Find a reputable independent shop in your area and save some money. Dealers nickel and dime everything. Find the shop who wants to replace the water pump as well as the pullies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thors Twins Posted December 18, 2016 Author Share Posted December 18, 2016 UPDATE....having followed up with the mechanic, he has now verified the Timing is ok and did not shift; since he nearly gave me a heart attack with the initial diagnosis, i went over and looked for myself and now have to direct traffic. so...with the coil on #1 replaced and still running like crap, checked compression on all cylinders; #1 cyl had none. Removed the head and the exhaust valve is broken! As of now, both heads will be checked, valve repaired, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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