TheMonaLisa Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 That is crazy and badass. Did the front AVO brace help with the "shudder" at low rpm in first? IE stop and go traffic. Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk Haven't driven the car yet, getting it aligned Saturday. Not sure what shudder your talking about however. Do you have a manual trans?... Maybe your RPMs are too low during 1st gear take off... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 I plan to do a brake brace when I upgrade my motor; EWG, VF52, Grimspeed TMIC, etc. Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk He meant a whole OEM master cylinder out of an STI, not a master cylinder brace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 It is more pronounced in my 03 Legacy, there is a bit of a lurch in 1st. https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/comments/3l1887/easy_and_10_modification_to_all_subaru_models_to/ Does the AVO Front Lower Underbody Brace do the same as the above reddit thread? Is the OEM STI master cylinder a worth while upgrade? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160919/5f974aaf56bf18c902e11be8ad4007b9.jpg Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Some people say that for brake FEEL, the STI master cylinder is as important/more important than upgrading to Brembos.. If I was going as all-out as you, I would definitely do it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Some people say that for brake FEEL, the STI master cylinder is as important/more important than upgrading to Brembos.. If I was going as all-out as you, I would definitely do it.. I looked into this when I did my Brembos, however there are some fitment issues with the Legacy (with my VDC-equipped '08, at least). Having driven my setup back to back with a few different STis, I can't say that I noticed any difference with the larger MC. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 It is more pronounced in my 03 Legacy, there is a bit of a lurch in 1st. Does the AVO Front Lower Underbody Brace do the same as the above reddit thread? Is the OEM STI master cylinder a worth while upgrade? http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160919/5f974aaf56bf18c902e11be8ad4007b9.jpg That Reddit thread is a DIY to stiffen the rear differential. The AVO brace stiffens the control arm mounting points. Drivetrain stiffening vs suspension stiffening. Whiteline makes actual bushings that do the same thing as the DIY thread. In fact they make bushing to stiffen the whole entire drivetrain. I did not upgrade to the STI master cylinder so I can not comment about it. People who have really seem to like it. It's not crazy expensive but probably a pita to install. I did do the master cylinder brace however which definitely gives you better feel under intense breaking. I like it and for less than a hundo, I think it's worth doing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 Is replacing the entire bushing better than the inserts? Thank you for telling me about this... It has driven me nuts for years. Whiteline Rear Differential Positive Power Front Kit: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fits/2009-subaru-legacy-gt-limited-2-5/bushings/whi-kdt905-whiteline-rear-differential-positive-power-front-kit Whiteline Rear Diff Positive Power Kit Inserts: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/fits/2009-subaru-legacy-gt-limited-2-5/transmission-and-differential-bushings/whi-kdt927-whiteline-rear-diff-positive-power-kit-inserts Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 The full bushing replacement will be stiffer and more involved to install than the inserts. Below is a diagram from Underdog.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160923/13772d787a4b569b2003e457aed1ebeb.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Alright, so I'm a little late to this thread, but this is an epic suspension thread already, so I need to contribute. That is a great looking setup you have listed OP. Very similar to what I've got going on with my autocross ready 2005 LGT wagon. In fact, you seem pretty set on putting a pretty serious suspension on there. If you really want to go to these lengths, let me just be the first to tell you that you better go autocross that sucker. In fact, autocross it without the stuff installed and then do it again after. At any rate, I ran Kartboy end links for about 4 years and while they were nice and stiff, over time, the rubber bushings wore out and split and they are now pretty much junk. I actually ended up going back to OEM endlinks, which are stiff enough, though they may be a little more prone to breaking. I figure they're cheap enough to just replace when/if they do. Skip Kartboys and try OEM or something else. The Moogs get good reviews, but no personal experience with 'em. If you are going to replace a bunch of bushings anyway in the front lower control arm and with this level of suspension build, you might want to consider aluminum spec.b lower control arms. They are not cheap, but boy do I covet some. Looks like you're heading in the right direction with bushings and such. The front lower control arms have three mounting points and Whiteline makes a bushing/ball joint/whatever kit for all of them. I have them all. You should get them all. Didn't those coilovers come with a top hat? I actually have Konis and Epics (Eibach repop), which is an OE style Macpherson setup, but I needed additional camber adjustment to fit wide wheels so I got the RCE OE style top hats with camber/caster adjust. Yes to the rear OE toe lockout kit. Relatively cheap and tightens things up back there and prevents idiot alignment techs from monkeying with the wrong adjustment point. As far as the AVO rear swaybar bracket brace, that is really an absolute must. The OE mounting tabs are much too flimsy to handle and upgraded swaybar. Your suspension will significantly increase the load put on those tabs which are basically a long strip of thick sheet metal. Take a look at 'em under the car and then compare the brace that mounts to it and you'll see what I mean. They are much much beefier and you need that extra strength as a solid base mounting point for the bigger sway. And one final thing that I think nobody has mentioned yet is that the number one performance modification that you can make on any car on the road is better tires. With this suspension, I hope you are planning to run a nice sticky summer tire. If you want something absolutely ridiculous, go with an autocross tire like the Bridgestone Potenza RE71-R. They will be amazing, but they won't last two years on a daily driven car, so take that into account. Michelin Pilot Super Sports are a highly recommended daily driver summer tire, but they are spendy. Go check out some of the tire threads so see some great cheaper options than those. But get something decent at least. Have fun. Great setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Didn't those coilovers come with a top hat? When I bought my Tarmacs new they didn't come with top hats, they were an add-on. On Myles' recommendation I just went with new spec B hats. OP, my suspension and braking setup is very similar to yours (if not quite as extreme, rather than doing WL poly bits I just did new OEM rubber), and it really transformed the car, you're going to love it. Definitely recommend the spec B. aluminum bits, too LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 Definitely recommend the spec B. aluminum bits, too I thought the Spec B aluminum were thought to be weaker than the steel, just lighter? Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Aluminum is weaker than steel, sure. But there is a lot more material, so strength is not an issue (or you wouldn't see so many sports cars using aluminum). The lightweight advantage is huge. No rust to worry about, either. Where did you read/hear that your stamped steel arms are stronger than the cast aluminum B arms? LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 Where did you read/hear that your stamped steel arms are stronger than the cast aluminum B arms? I will link the page I saved once I get home from work today. Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Spec B Aluminum vs. Steel suspension Front Control Arms: Steel 7.5 lbs Aluminum 6.5 lbs Rear Trailing Arms: Steel 17.8 lbs Aluminum 11.2 lbs Rear Upper Lateral Links: Steel 4.9 lbs Aluminum 3.3 lbs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Both rear lower control arms on the Spec B are stamped steel but those are the ones replaced by the Whiteline control arm kit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 I will link the page I saved once I get home from work today. Sent from my SHIELD Tablet using Tapatalk Well, I have searched high and low on my favorites, along with google. I cannot find where I read that the aluminum parts are weaker than steel. If I find it though, I will post it for sure. I am also compiling a revised parts list. Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 This is my updated list after a lot more research and information. I swear this is an addiction Again, thoughts, comments, ideas, and reviews all welcome. Already Purchased: RCE T1's with custom 500lb rates f/r, GTworx camber plates (add 0.8 degrees caster), and spec.B rear tophats. Scoobyscoodle, thanks again! MOOG K750023 Rear Endlinks MOOG K750049 Front Endlinks Spec B Aluminum Front Control arms - Thank you Kamakiri Spec B Aluminum Rear Trailing Arms - Thank you Kamakiri Spec B Aluminum Rear Upper Lateral Link - Thank you Kamakiri Note: For 5mm spacers, extended studs will be added if required. The rest is yet to be ordered. Brakes: Stoptech ST-40 Big Brake Kit 332mm Red Slotted Rotors (Front) Stoptech ST-22 Big Brake Kit 328mm Red Slotted Rotors (Rear) GrimmSpeed Master Cylinder Brace Suspension: AVO Rear Stabilizer Mount Brace (Swaybar) Whiteline Front Sway Bar 22mm (Adjustable) Whiteline Rear Sway Bar 20mm (Adjustable) Swaybar Spacers (If needed) Whiteline Rear Lateral Link Kit Whiteline KCA307 Rear Control arm - lock bolt kit Whiteline Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit Bushings/Mounts: Whiteline Gearbox Positive Shift Kit Whiteline Rear Diff Positive Power Front Kit Whiteline Rear Diff Positive Power Rear Kit PERRIN Pitch Stop Mount STI Group N Transmission Mount STI Group N Right & Left Side Engine Mounts Whiteline Street Version Anti Lift Kit Whiteline Front Inner Lower Control Arm Bushing Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Looks right to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 Looks right to me. I was surprised you didn't scoop up those aluminum Spec B parts before I did. Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Looks really solid to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 I'm trying to put a moratorium on things I really don't need, especially considering that I'm gonna have to have the motor pulled to deal with leaky valve covers, leaky transmission tail housing, leaky oil pan, disasterously oxidized motor mounts, still need timing belt, etc, etc. I have already easily paid for this car twice. Aluminum control arms just aren't high enough of a priority for me right now. I already have all three Whiteline bushings mounted and installed on the car in steel control arms. I don't need to go swapping that stuff out even though I covet aluminum control arms. That said ... good thing you saw the thread before I did and scooped 'em up or I might have been sorely tempted. Early bird gets the worm ... but the second mouse gets the cheese. Good for you for being on top of it. Enjoy your new suspension setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 I thought the Spec B aluminum were thought to be weaker than the steel, just lighter? Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk I've heard it's the opposite - rally teams often use the steel control arms instead of the aluminum ones because the aluminum ones are strong enough to bend the frame of the car in an off-course excursion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Do you plan to pick up the third and final aluminum arm? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 Do you plan to pick up the third and final aluminum arm? Are you talking about the one in your picture? (Arrow for reference) Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Just something to consider that will save you a ton of cash, (but reduce bling points LOL). Many out there may disagree with me but hear me out. If you're not tracking your car you really don't need those Stoptechs. The stock Legacy brakes are actually plenty for daily street driving as well as spirited fun on a weekend canyon flog. I get it, they don't look nearly as sexy as having a big fat red Stoptech caliper poking out from under the rim but it really is overkill. I ran 4 seasons at the track with from '06-'10 with an upgraded stock system, (stainless lines, track pads, decent rotors, race fluid) and under extreme use they held up well. Your DD will never see abuse like this. It was only until I became a better driver and bumped up to stage 3 power levels that I noticed the need to upgrade. At that point I bought a used Wilwood front kit from another forum member and added that to the system, (still using stock rotor size), still keeping the stock rears. Again ran that another couple of seasons until skills, power, and suspension kept getting upgraded. Finally two years ago it was time to upgrade again and now I'm running the StopTech trophy kit front and rear, (its the track version of what you're looking at). Can I beat on it all day long and have it still laugh at me? Yes. Would I see it ever utilize its capacity to the fullest extent on the street. Never. My '05 is now a dedicated track car and rarely driven on the street as I have a stage 2 Outback for a DD, (with the stock Outback brakes, which admittedly are not that great, well ok, they suck...) Just something to think about. The stock calipers with better pads, decent quality OEM sized rotors, good fluid, and stainless lines is more than enough to get you what you need on the street. That literally leaves you with a few grand to put into something more worthy. If you really feel that you need a BBK, I'd suggest just doing the fronts as the rear really don't do jack to up the performance as there isn't really much weight in the back of our cars. Its not going to throw your brake bias off to the point where you'll notice it or affect the car adversely. Even the new Cadillac ATS front brake upgrade thats being offered to Suby enthusiasts would be a better call for your wallet than a full on Stoptech kit. Just my .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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