wesleyCrowbar Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160930/9d9ff6e51db214c2998ae3c460008975.jpg Top is the day I bought if, bottom is after the springs settled. I'll measure the gap in a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Agreed on the ridiculous install estimate. I can have my coils out and in in 3 hours including setup and cleanup. Ride height Since you're running the normal style camber plates, I'd recommend going about 3/4" higher than magnusonsubie - while his car looks amazing and is still probably fantastic to drive, the everyday comfort and roadholding capabilities are worse since there's so little travel before the bump stops. Depending on the condition of your back roads, you'll want some of that bump travel back. Alignment Depending on your tolerance for tire wear, I'd recommend something along these lines for an aggressive street alignment: Camber: -2.3F and -1.6R. Toe: 0F 0R Caster: between 6 and 6.5 degrees, even on both sides If/when you can, get it corner balanced as well. My Setup (not listing a bunch of braces and hardened bushings): RCE Tarmac 1's 500#F/450#R Springs RCE Forged Lowering Camber Plates (increases bump travel by ~1") Whitleline KCA334 Anti-Lift Control Arm Bushings Whiteline Front Roll Center Kit KCA313 - this is another piece you should definitely consider if you're planning to lower your car as much as you are Whiteline Rear Camber Bushings Whiteline KTA124 Camber Arms Kartboy Endlinks AVO Sway Bar Reinforcement Brackets Whiteline 24mm Adjustable Front Sway Bar (set to the equivalent of 25mm) Whiteline 20mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar (set to the equivalent of 21mm) Full Set of Spec B Aluminum Arms Camber: -2.9F and -2.3R. Toe: 0F 0R Caster: 6.5 degrees, even on both sides I love it, but it's a little more aggressive than I'd choose to run if I didn't have my mind set on Autocross capability. I'll upgrade to Ohlins if money frees up to do so, but the damping on the RCE coils is pretty good as it is. It's definitely a stiff ride, but not harsh (passengers comment but don't complain). Bushings will make or break your ride comfort, the more hardened bushings you add the more 'connected' the car is, but that means you're more connected to bumps as well. My car is a little skittish on rough roads because of this. Ride Height (sorry for the blurry photo): http://i.imgur.com/M5gOPHv.jpg My ride height is increased by 1/2" and my wheel gap is decreased by 1/2" because my tires are a full inch in diameter larger than stock. Not recommended - you'll rub in places you didn't know you could. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Bushings will make or break your ride comfort, the more hardened bushings you add the more 'connected' the car is, but that means you're more connected to bumps as well. My car is a little skittish on rough roads because of this. This is the reason I went with new OEM rubber bushings, and new .B tophats. Fresh rubber is the way to go, if you want to maintain a some legitimate comfort. You're even less cushioned because of those camber plates. Do love the instant turn-in response though LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 That shop estimate seems very high, no way it will take even half the time they quoted. The coils are ready to bolt in aside from setting up the ride height if you want it lower than I had them. You could definitely go a bit lower since the stiffer rates will help you out, but I really don't recommend running KW/RCE's slammed, they're really not designed for that. Somewhere in the 12.75" range fender to hub is the lowest I'd go. 13.5" front and 13" rear is pretty much the ideal spot, performance wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 So after everyone saying that the poly bushings squeak and are not the way to go for a DD street car. I've been looking more at the STI Group N. Supposedly harder than OEM bushings, but not as hard as poly and without the squeaks. I found this: http://www.rallispec.com/mou_bush_legacy05.html Has anyone found Group N for the rear of our cars? Does anyone have a comparison of the Group N bushings VS WL Poly? Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 The Whiteline rear control arms come with poly bushings so if you want that adjustability you don't really have a choice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 The Whiteline rear control arms come with poly bushings so if you want that adjustability you don't really have a choice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Well, that answers that. Would it be worth it to have Group N in front and Whiteline in rear? Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 I guess your front would be guaranteed silent and the rear would have the potential to squeak... My understanding is if WL bushings are lubed sufficiently with the proper grease, they won't squeak. I used the supplied WL grease when I installed mine last week and they make some noise. Just ordered a tub of Energy Suspension polyurethane bushing lube as it has great reviews on Amazon. Maybe someone else who has more experience fighting polyurethane squeaks can post what they've found to work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 I'm currently in the hunt to find either Group N or proven JDM bushings that fit the rear. If anyone has part numbers or websites, please share. Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacybt Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 I'm currently in the hunt to find either Group N or proven JDM bushings that fit the rear. If anyone has part numbers or websites, please share. Sent from my One M8 using Tapatalk You're in luck, I just found this: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-suspension-hardened-bushings-256637.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 You're in luck, I just found this: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-suspension-hardened-bushings-256637.html I emailed them to see shipping cost. We'll see what they reply with. Also got some Spec B parts in today! Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Emailed sales@hardrace.com. This was the reply: Jeremiah, 6843 (4 pc set) $68 6842F (4 pc set) $155 7243 (2 pc set) $55 6841 (2 pc set) $105 6954 (2 pc set) $105 S&H will be about $29 to WA 98370 Those are special order items, it will take about 7-12 days to get to you. Let us know if you have any questions or concern. Thank you $517 total. Considering Whiteline cost, it's not bad. EDIT: I emailed them back with this instead... Part Numbers: 6843 7243 6841 6833-H 6834-H Of which would be equivalent to the Whiteline KTA124, W63398, W63394, W63397, and W63396. Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 The parts pile is growing... Also decided to go 100% Whiteline bushings after a few PMs and conversations with a few locals. Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Good thread so far. Interested to see about the non poly bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Good thread so far. Interested to see about the non poly bushings. Their reply: 6843 $68 7243 $55 6841 $105 6833-H $245 6834-H $245 Shipping about $45 for all. (To WA) Total $763 shipped. 6843 REAR UPPER ARM BUSHING = Whiteline W63396 & W63397 7243 REAR KNUCKLE BUSHING = Whiteline W63394 6841 REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHING = Whiteline W63398 6833-H REAR REAR LATERAL ARM & 6834-H REAR FRONT LATERAL ARM= Whiteline KTA124 Email them at: sales@buyhardrace.com Website: http://www.buyhardrace.com/index.php Disclaimer: This is for info only. I have not bought from them, since I decided I'm going full poly. Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel_Jeremiah Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 Overdue update: Picked up my car today after getting a few things installed. Oil change = Amsoil 10W-40 Front & Rear Differentials = Amsoil 75W-90 Transmission = Amsoil 75W-90 Group N Motor mounts Left & Right Group N Transmission mount Whiteline Gearbox Positive Shift Kit (Part Number: KDT901) Whiteline Rear Diff Positive Power Kit Inserts (Part Number: KDT927) Whiteline Rear Differential Positive Power Front Kit (Part Number: KDT905) SuperPro Bushing Kit SPF3007K (Had to have small portion clipped) Thoughts: From the short drive home, I noticed the "lurch" going from throttle to nothing has gone down by 95%. It's still there, though greatly reduced. Also, the stop and go in traffic lurch is, as far as I can tell, completely gone. I will be getting the Fluidampr Damper crank pulley at some point to help with NVH at idle. If anyone wants OEM Motor mounts and trans mount (with 59008 miles on them). $25 for all three and you pay shipping. Evolution of a Dream Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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