bobbydd21 Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Right side DRL wire taps to the blue wire on the harness, left side DRL taps into the green wire on the harness. No purple wire is used. Installed the iJDMtoy kit in under 30 minutes using this method. Quick, easy and works great. Zipped tied resistors to bumper beam, wire loomed everything and wrapped in electrical tape to keep moisture out and everything secure. Sorry I meant blue not purple. This is what I tried, but I didn't use wire taps. Instead I just put the bare wires into the corresponding green and blue sockets on the DRL harness in order to test them. I got nothing doing that. Perhaps I'll just try to wire tap them instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 So I finally found the problem and got them working! The issue was I have LED high beams. For SOME reason, these switchbacks do not work with LED high beams. The LED high beams just flickered and the switchback DRLs would not turn on. So I'm back to halogen high beams. I ordered the Nokya H7 Arctic White 7000k bulbs to replace my halogens, as suggested by someone else on this forum. Hopefully this will at least make them whiter than the OEM ones! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeastCoast Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 So I finally found the problem and got them working! The issue was I have LED high beams. For SOME reason, these switchbacks do not work with LED high beams. The LED high beams just flickered and the switchback DRLs would not turn on. So I'm back to halogen high beams. I ordered the Nokya H7 Arctic White 7000k bulbs to replace my halogens, as suggested by someone else on this forum. Hopefully this will at least make them whiter than the OEM ones! I've got the Arctic Whites and they're basically a direct match to the "C" LED light. Your high beams should be a 9005/HB3 bulb though unless the H7 is the same? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk @BeastCoast1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1692 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 So I finally found the problem and got them working! The issue was I have LED high beams. For SOME reason, these switchbacks do not work with LED high beams. The LED high beams just flickered and the switchback DRLs would not turn on. So I'm back to halogen high beams. I ordered the Nokya H7 Arctic White 7000k bulbs to replace my halogens, as suggested by someone else on this forum. Hopefully this will at least make them whiter than the OEM ones! Did you connect to the correct side of the DRL harness? I know quite a few people that have LED headlights and got this to work with no issues at all. I had to make connectors to fit into the proper side of the harness since the included wiring harness would not plug in at all to the connector. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h174/firemn1692/20160321_171029_zpsialhl4pu.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Did you connect to the correct side of the DRL harness? I know quite a few people that have LED headlights and got this to work with no issues at all. I had to make connectors to fit into the proper side of the harness since the included wiring harness would not plug in at all to the connector. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h174/firemn1692/20160321_171029_zpsialhl4pu.jpg Yup, I did! I actually used quick splices to connect directly to the blue and green wires on the harness so I know the connection is good. Also, I know I connected each light to the correct side of the harness because the correct side DRL goes off when the blinker goes on. My LED low beams work fine. Perhaps it is just my specific LED highbeams that are causing the problem? Do you know who got this to work with LED high beams? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1692 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 With mine, I left this part disconnected so that only the switchbacks would be the DRL lights, and the high beams would work just when I put the high beams on when the headlights are on. Might be worth testing to see if that fixes the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 With mine, I left this part disconnected so that only the switchbacks would be the DRL lights, and the high beams would work just when I put the high beams on when the headlights are on. Might be worth testing to see if that fixes the issue. This is exactly what I did. The harness is not plugged in and is just taped up. But strangely enough, when the LED highbeams are installed and the DRLs are on, the highbeams flicker dully and the DRLs don't turn on. I don't know how this is even possible since like I said before the harness is not even attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1692 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 This is exactly what I did. The harness is not plugged in and is just taped up. But strangely enough, when the LED highbeams are installed and the DRLs are on, the highbeams flicker dully and the DRLs don't turn on. I don't know how this is even possible since like I said before the harness is not even attached. Well, I'm lost! I have no idea then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Well, I'm lost! I have no idea then! Haha I am too! I bought these to try: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GIUIGHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These come with many more expensive LED high beams, so perhaps those who got it to work had these installed as well. If that doesn't work I guess I could try different LED high beams/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1692 Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Haha I am too! I bought these to try: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GIUIGHO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These come with many more expensive LED high beams, so perhaps those who got it to work had these installed as well. If that doesn't work I guess I could try different LED high beams/ Might be worth a try and see if it will make a difference! Good luck, and keep us updated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TTG Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 This is exactly what I did. The harness is not plugged in and is just taped up. But strangely enough, when the LED highbeams are installed and the DRLs are on, the highbeams flicker dully and the DRLs don't turn on. I don't know how this is even possible since like I said before the harness is not even attached. Yes in deed. If you have LED high beams, the switch backs won't work. We ran into this problem as well and removed the LED high beams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Yes in deed. If you have LED high beams, the switch backs won't work. We ran into this problem as well and removed the LED high beams. I figured this was the issue. I will update on if the canbus module works though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Update: I tried these canbus modules out (https://www.amazon.com/review/R1XZAJELL67A8U/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm) and they eliminated the flickering LED high beams and the switchback DRLs now come on. However, they are very dull. Next I am going to try a newer model of LED high beams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 So I got the LED high beams to work! Bought these resistors (plug and play right into the high beams): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01APBNFVE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Now the LED high beams work perfectly with the switchback DRLs - absolutely no dimming or flickering. I mounted the resistors on the same metal cross bar where the switchback resistors are. Does anyone see any reason this could be bad for the car? At least its all working haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 Sorry to dig up an old post, but I finally got the IJDMToy switchbacks as a Christmas present. Looking at my 2016, I see no DRL harness to tap into, there is just one large harness that seems to feed the DRL/high beam, turn signal, and LED low beams. The amber turn signals work fine plugged into the bulb socket. I tested on the bench with a 12V source and I know I need power on the extra lead for the DRL portion. I take it I need to tap into one of the blue / green wires going to the high beam to get the power for the DRL portion of the switchback? My other question is: when the bulb has power on both the DRL and the turn signal input, the turn signal overrides and the amber will come on? Take a look here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5478763&postcount=10 And yes, the white leds will turn amber for the signal when everything is setup correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbydd21 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Thanks for the drawing. I have the HID headlights and there is no separate DRL plug as shown in the picture, just a single large plug for the headlights, high beams, and turnsignals. I need to find a wiring diagram to figure out how to disable the halogen DRL and use the LED version instead. More to follow I guess. I may be wrong, but as far as I am aware all of the models have this DRL plug. This plug is pretty far down under the battery and is easy to miss. Again, I could be wrong but I would definitely double check that this harness is not there. The pictures everyone took of this harness are taken after they unplugged it and pulled it up. The harness is not actually located right near the headlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavySubsSS Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I may be wrong, but as far as I am aware all of the models have this DRL plug. This plug is pretty far down under the battery and is easy to miss. Again, I could be wrong but I would definitely double check that this harness is not there. The pictures everyone took of this harness are taken after they unplugged it and pulled it up. The harness is not actually located right near the headlights. All the models use the high beam as the drl so this harness should be in all models Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavySubsSS Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I had the battery out and did not notice that connector. There was a wire bundle that continued under the battery tray, I will follow that to see if I can find the DRL connector you mention. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170103/7d1d26f8af51f0560d62fd1d644abbb3.jpg Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 reviving an old thread... I'd like to do this mod, but have a couple of questions. I'd like to use the turn signals as the DRLs, but I'm not a fan of the switchbacks with the white DRL bulb. I'd like to just disconnect and tap into the DRL harness and use that as a power source to then connect to the turn signal. I'll swap out the filament bulb with some amber LEDs and use one of these connectors. https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Hyper-Wiring-Adapters-Signal/dp/B00TXRWTF0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1508201733&sr=8-9&keywords=7440%2Badapter&th=1 I'll connect the DRL tap to the bulb bypassing the load resistor (that way the low voltage DRL is able to power the LED bulb at full power) and normal turn signal connection goes through the load resistor (preventing rapid flash). What I'm trying to get at is, when in DRL mode, both sides will be lit amber. When the turn signal is on, the corresponding side will flash and the other side will be steady. [Wiring schematic attached] Would this work? Has anyone tried this or someone more savy in auto electricals care to comment? Or am I completely crazy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 reviving an old thread... I'd like to do this mod, but have a couple of questions. I'd like to use the turn signals as the DRLs, but I'm not a fan of the switchbacks with the white DRL bulb. I'd like to just disconnect and tap into the DRL harness and use that as a power source to then connect to the turn signal. I'll swap out the filament bulb with some amber LEDs and use one of these connectors. https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Hyper-Wiring-Adapters-Signal/dp/B00TXRWTF0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1508201733&sr=8-9&keywords=7440%2Badapter&th=1 I'll connect the DRL tap to the bulb bypassing the load resistor (that way the low voltage DRL is able to power the LED bulb at full power) and normal turn signal connection goes through the load resistor (preventing rapid flash). What I'm trying to get at is, when in DRL mode, both sides will be lit amber. When the turn signal is on, the corresponding side will flash and the other side will be steady. [Wiring schematic attached] Would this work? Has anyone tried this or someone more savy in auto electricals care to comment? Or am I completely crazy? It’ll be fine,I have the DD c-lights and have my DRL tapped into those wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Thanks! I started to try to remove the clip today, and for the life of me, I couldn't get it to come off. I didn't want to break any tabs... Is there a trick to this? I got the main plug disconnected, but couldn't get the one below to come off. It also looks a bit different from the other pics. Am I even at the right plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Got it It was dirt and salt binding them together. Un clipped and verified 14v at the connectors in DRL mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Thanks! I started to try to remove the clip today, and for the life of me, I couldn't get it to come off. I didn't want to break any tabs... Is there a trick to this? I got the main plug disconnected, but couldn't get the one below to come off. It also looks a bit different from the other pics. Am I even at the right plug? Yes that’s the right plug,all I used a flat screwdriver to press on the plastic clip to removed that plug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Got the iJDM wiring adapters and decided to get this going and wired up while I wait for the LED bulbs. The first problem that I ran into was that the bulb holder from the harness would not lock correctly like the OEM holder It went in pretty tight, but it wouldn't lock with or without the washer. Anyone else have this fitment issue? I couldn't really tell what was the problem as there is not much room in there to look into the opening. And the hole faces downward.. Figured I'd give it a shot and test. while the light did come on, the resistor got really hot. And since the fitment wasn't right either decided not to go this route and wire tap into the factory wire instead and live with the hyperflash. Set up the wire taps and wrapped everything up in good quality High Heat Wire Loom Harness Insulating Tape. Tested by connecting directly to the battery + and it worked. So I crimped in the pins on the other end to go into the DRL connector. Now came the other problem. When I connected to the DRL pins and started the car (shift lever in N and parking brake off) both indicator bulbs in the headlamp assembly came on along with the dimmed high beam, turn lights in the side mirrors and the instrument cluster lights for the turn signal Not sure if the rear turn signal lights came on too, didn't check. I guessing that by providing power to the indicator light bulb, it excited that entire circuit thus causing the instrument cluster and the mirror ones to come on, but I don't understand how the high beams come on too... Anyone else explore this or have any ideas? I tapped into the green wire going to the bulb, assuming that is the +ve. Is there anything different in how subaru electricals work that is causing this? The end result was not what I wanted so I just have everything taped up for now with the DRL disabled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornichoe Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 After digging into this further, I figured the best way to go about this was to use a 7443 bulb instead of the 7443. With the 7443 having 2 separated circuits it would over come the problem I was having before. So I ordered the JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright PX Chipsets 7443 amber bulbs from amazon. While I was waiting for these to show up, I was mulling over how I was going to wire this. I looked at getting the 7443 socket adapters but I read a lot of reviews that they were larger than the opening (now I don't know if these were just folks that were trying to put it into the housing and the tabs didn't align or if the 7443 socket was really bigger than the 7440). The 7440 wiring harness that I had was already a tight fit, so I didn't want to deal with that. I was staring at the harness, the pin diagram of the standard 7443 bulb and it struck me. The back of the socket from the harness I had was a rubber seal. So I pulled that out. And then cam the idea. I could straighten out the pin from the bulb, make a connector and wire it out through the rubber seal. I had to wait a couple of days before the bulbs showed up to see it all this theory worked. Once the bulbs came in I verified that the resistance between each of the contacts was infinity to make sure I was not going to have the same problem as with the 7440 bulb. Tested both bulbs with a 9v adapter lying around in the house. The bulb itself worked in either polarity, but in one direction, the dim and bright had significant difference. Straightened out one of the inner pins and wired up a little piece of wire with the end tap. Had to flip the outer pin (on the same side of the pin that is straight) to the other side so it made contact to the 7440 socket [if not it will be on the side without the electrical contact]. Got everything taped up, pulled the wire through the rubber seal and pushed the seal back in. Tested again to verify Repeat with the other harness and bulb. I had the rear trim removed, so I thought I'll check the problem I was having before with the tab alignment and fix it. I trimmed down the tabs so they aligned to the rear factory headlight assembly. They didn't align in the front. guessing they are different tab positions. Ended up only keeping the one that locks and the one opposite to it. With the other two tabs completely cut off, I was able to get it in there and twist to get it to lock in place. With the bulb in place gave it a test run to see how it was. It was exactly what I wanted. After that it was just wiring everything with spade connectors and tape over. I couldn't find a place where I could mount the resistors without being in contact with factory plastic, so they are hanging on zip ties for now till I get some other crazy ideas! I've never created gifs, so I have no idea how. And google didn't get me the answer I wanted... Here are some pictures and link to the video. http://tinypic.com/r/6ozrpd/9 View My Video All this was because I didn't want to do the switchbacks. But I'm happy with how it turned out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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