Lots of problems from tuning to misfires :(

[Tw33k]

Well I have finally started to finish up my Legacy and well put on a few mods and that is when I start having issues. I installed a Cobb SF intake and had two cylinder misfire codes #2 and #4 cleared them and everything went fine for a week then I threw on a Maddad catless downpipe and when I went to put on the cobb OTS map Stage 2+ for 91, I threw a waste gate code and reached 20 psi at 4k rpm . I should only reach around 16.5 on that map right? so I chickened out of that map and went to the previous stage 1+ SF 91 map and now I'm misfiring on #4 again but only under high load around 4-5k rpm's and still reaching around 20 psi at 4k rpm. pls help.

 

~Could this be because of a Catless downpipe? So uncontrollable boost??? maybe EWG?

~Could an exhaust leak cause these terrible things to happen??? Maybe turbo to downpipe gaskets not tight enough?

~I am starting with a compression test tomorrow for a possible burnt valve

~While I am at it I am replacing Spark plugs

~Then if none of that helps I'll try switching injectors like #2 and #4

~May change coil packs

~After that I'm confused and won't know what to do

 

ANY Help would be appreciated.... This may turn into a engine or a turbo rebuild very fast idk.....

[ehsnils]

Begin with checking fuel pressure, your injectors and also do a compression test.

 

Mismatched injectors leads to misfires and eventually burnt valves.

 

Also look at the spark plugs, keep track of which cylinder it comes from. They shall be identical. Look around the web for how to "read" them.

 

And make sure you pick the correct spark plugs too when installing new. NGK plugs seems to work best.

[Tw33k]

I just bought some spark plugs today and a compression tester and I am just about to do all that in one large project. But it still doesn't explain the over boosting and the codes I've been throwing.

 

These are the codes I am getting

~P0171 Too lean, could possibly be an exhaust leak

~P0244 Boost Control Solenoid Performance, Still scratching my head on this one

~P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire, most likely caused by spark plug blow out

 

Will update when I have finished and I may throw the original map back on the car...

 

Thank you Ehsnils for the help so far!

[08SpecB_DE]

The catless DP will cause you to overboost. You need an ebcs to regulate the boost. You should not run a DP and only be on stage 1 either. You very well could be looking at a rebuild but the compression test will let you know. Smoke the motor and see if you have any leaks which could be causing the 171 code.

[Tw33k]

Thanks and I just finished the compression test all were around the same PSI SOOOOO yay no burnt values

~#1 105

~#2 100

~#3 100

~#4 105

Does seem unlike any other compression test I see on the forums with the compression being really low but then again I had my heads rebuilt and surfaced last December so maybe.... 165K+ miles at 3000' I think it is all fine

 

I have just ordered a Cobb EBCS tonight to help I don't think I'll do any driving until it arrives

 

But when I checked all my previous spark plugs nothing seemed out of the ordinary except for the fact of them all being gapped at .025 hmm.

I'll post pics later tonight but thank you for the help 08SpecB_DE

[rhino6303]

~Could this be because of a Catless downpipe?

 

Yes.

 

~Could an exhaust leak cause these terrible things to happen???

 

Yes.

 

 

Are you using the correct tune for your intake?

 

Are you using the stage 2 low wastegate tune?

 

Also, did you do the compression test on a warm or cold engine?

[Tw33k]

Yes.

 

 

 

Yes.

 

 

Are you using the correct tune for your intake?

 

Are you using the stage 2 low wastegate tune?

 

Also, did you do the compression test on a warm or cold engine?

 

I am using the OTS cobb Stage 2 map with the intake and I can't seem to find a Low wastegate tune

 

When I was driving I did notice my wastegate on the access port read it was -90 without even having any boost does this mean it is fully open?

 

I did it on a warm engine after it cooled enough to let me take things out without burning myself.

[quick4dr]

get yourself dialed in with Tuning Alliance, Bren Tuning, Cryo Tune before you lose her for good.

[Tuning Alliance]

Thanks and I just finished the compression test all were around the same PSI SOOOOO yay no burnt values

~#1 105

~#2 100

~#3 100

~#4 105

Does seem unlike any other compression test I see on the forums with the compression being really low but then again I had my heads rebuilt and surfaced last December so maybe.... 165K+ miles at 3000' I think it is all fine

 

I have just ordered a Cobb EBCS tonight to help I don't think I'll do any driving until it arrives

 

But when I checked all my previous spark plugs nothing seemed out of the ordinary except for the fact of them all being gapped at .025 hmm.

I'll post pics later tonight but thank you for the help 08SpecB_DE

 

 

That's actually pretty low, should be around 130's ..Rebuild is soon in your future

 

-B

[ehsnils]

That's actually pretty low, should be around 130's ..Rebuild is soon in your future

 

-B

Depends on the quality of the gauge too, most gauges measures like butt dynos and as long as the cylinders have similar values it's usually good.

[Tw33k]

I just got the cheapest gauge I could find at my local Napa so I would bet that it is mainly the gauge. The only reason I thing that is because not even 6 months ago I had things rebuilt for other reasons.

 

But I need a tune where would be the best place to get a e-tune because the nearest dyno-ing shop is 5 hours away and I have power steering leak that isn't bad but would prevent me from going on a dyno.

[Mike07LGT]

I just got the cheapest gauge I could find at my local Napa so I would bet that it is mainly the gauge. The only reason I thing that is because not even 6 months ago I had things rebuilt for other reasons.

 

But I need a tune where would be the best place to get a e-tune because the nearest dyno-ing shop is 5 hours away and I have power steering leak that isn't bad but would prevent me from going on a dyno.

 

I used Bren Tuning for my etune and have had a perfect running car for 77k miles since it was done.

[Tw33k]

Thanks I'll contact them in a few days for now I am running a Economy tune so I don't blow anything up

[Tuning Alliance]

I just got the cheapest gauge I could find at my local Napa so I would bet that it is mainly the gauge. The only reason I thing that is because not even 6 months ago I had things rebuilt for other reasons.

 

But I need a tune where would be the best place to get a e-tune because the nearest dyno-ing shop is 5 hours away and I have power steering leak that isn't bad but would prevent me from going on a dyno.

 

We do ETUNING man. Have been doing it for years for legacys. Have a nice review thread on here too following. Shoot me a pm can get you on a good tune.

 

-Brian

[Max Capacity]

Thanks I'll contact them in a few days for now I am running a Economy tune so I don't blow anything up

 

Just saying others that have had a Bren tune and then went to TA were impressed with the difference the TA tune made in their car.

 

Mike is that Great of a tuner.

 

Your compression #'s look ok based on the fact they are all close together. Yes 130's or more is normal but other things can effect the #.

 

Make sure you have the correct NGK plugs installed and have a clean MAF sensor and air filter before you begin to data log.

 

Brian can help you out with all the things you need to know. You can also get most any part you need from him too.

[Tw33k]

Thanks for all the help I'll be shooting PM's in a few gotta get some money straight before anything! Thanks again will keep updating when things happen.

[coldsoda]

Just saying others that have had a Bren tune and then went to TA were impressed with the difference the TA tune made in their car.

 

Mike is that Great of a tuner.

 

Your compression #'s look ok based on the fact they are all close together. Yes 130's or more is normal but other things can effect the #.

 

Make sure you have the correct NGK plugs installed and have a clean MAF sensor and air filter before you begin to data log.

 

Brian can help you out with all the things you need to know. You can also get most any part you need from him too.

^ Good info here. FYI, NGK2309 are the plugs you want.

[Tw33k]

PM's Sent!

[Mike07LGT]

Id bet alot of the issues you are having have to do with the intake not being tuned for. Either replace it with the stock intake and get a tune or just get it tuned with the intake on there. But id replace it with stock based on experience

[Tw33k]

I only started to have problems when I put on the aftermarket downpipe.

[Max Capacity]

I only started to have problems when I put on the aftermarket downpipe.

 

Aftermarket DP and a good tune = great running car.

 

 

I will say the car may hick cup once after a tune, when your doing a quick downshift into 3rd and going WOT. Just reset the CEL. Most likely the ECU will relearn. I've noticed that with both cars over the years. Not all the time but it seems when the air temp has a big change from when it was tuned...

[Mike07LGT]

I only started to have problems when I put on the aftermarket downpipe.

 

I understand, but your car will run so much better with the factory intake if you have a stock turbo, and a solid tune. The tune is most important but you really dont need an intake until you get up there in horsepower. Best of luck with everything and get a good tune!

[Tw33k]

Aftermarket DP and a good tune = great running car.

 

 

I will say the car may hick cup once after a tune, when your doing a quick downshift into 3rd and going WOT. Just reset the CEL. Most likely the ECU will relearn. I've noticed that with both cars over the years. Not all the time but it seems when the air temp has a big change from when it was tuned...

 

Thanks I am getting my tune now hopefully everything goes awesomely can't wait to get it on the dirt again!

[Tw33k]

I understand, but your car will run so much better with the factory intake if you have a stock turbo, and a solid tune. The tune is most important but you really dont need an intake until you get up there in horsepower. Best of luck with everything and get a good tune!

 

I understand I didn't need a SF intake till I got higher numbers, but I mainly got it for the sound I guess.

[Max Capacity]

The stock intake with the silencer removed from the bottom of the air filter box, lets you hear the turbo and BOV better and its free.