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bad wheel bearing but which corner?


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There's always someone with something better. Thanks for the video FJuan. I have heard about that for many years but never tried it. Acetone is cheap for me too and I have ATF in the shed. I would have to buy a new metal oil can...;)

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I actually tried this a few years back when a forum member started talking about it. Believe or not, it works way better than any OTC penetrating oils. Just like the video, most bolts can be removed in 5 mins.
My wife's balls are delicious.
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Trust me, it's awesome. Once you replace your hub, just spray the area down with brake cleaner to remove any of the residue. Then again, it could act like a rust preventer for a little while.
My wife's balls are delicious.
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I remember when my wheel bearing let go on the highway.. at 60 MPH.. the funny thing was I jacked up the car and never got really any in and out play.. but when I used my cam pointed on the wheel you saw it..

 

ended up changing the wheel bearing while it was snowing and like 24F outside.. for the first time it was not that hard TBH I was not sure amazon was going to make it so I got a moog local and the timken came in the same day.. I never did the drivers side rear yet.

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I just replaced my right rear WB after driving 11,000 miles on a no-name brand one I replaced last fall. Learned my lesson there. Anyway, just wanted to add that all three other corners are original and these things wear unevenly so don't do more work than you have to. Lastly, I live in the north east but get the car rustproofed every fall which helps immensely when doing these kind of jobs.
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I just replaced my right rear WB after driving 11,000 miles on a no-name brand one I replaced last fall. Learned my lesson there. Anyway, just wanted to add that all three other corners are original and these things wear unevenly so don't do more work than you have to. Lastly, I live in the north east but get the car rustproofed every fall which helps immensely when doing these kind of jobs.

How did you diagnose which bearing was bad?

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I ran into a problem a while back that I thought was a wheel bearing. Replaced a front bearing, no change, one rear bearing had already been replaced so I replaced the other. Still no change. As I was trying to readjust the parking brake a week or so later, I noticed a grinding noise as I was turning the wheel. OH GREAT, HOW THE *&%$ DID I SCREW UP A NEW BEARING?!? I took the brake rotor/drum back off and the grinding disappeared. Upon close inspection I noticed the lip of the parking brake drum was dragging on the backing plate of the wheel. The lip of the drum had actually worn into the backing plate somewhat so it had been going on for a while. I finally figured out that water/salt had caused two overlapping sheets of metal in the backing plate to push apart far enough that the one plate had started dragging on the parking brake drum. Checking the other side I found the exact same condition. I made precise adjustments using a 12oz. ball peen hammer and viola, no more noise.

 

I guess I should have been tipped off as this wasn't the typical whirring, droning, airplane-taking-off, kind of sound that changes frequency as speed increases that I've usually had before with bad wheel bearings. It was just a rumbling kind of noise that started around 40 mph or so and was very difficult to locate. Just figured maybe it was a Subaru thing. Part of the difficulty in locating it was probably because it was affecting both sides.

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