ben64 Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 Hi I've just came back from a short "high speed" ride on highway ( 20 miles at around 100/110 mph) and as every time I ask a little more to the engine I check it and even under the car and I've seen the red square pipe ( around 2 inches ) getting easily one inch more in diameter directly after the clamp but no leak ... Is it normal as coolant Legacy system is without a pressurised expansion tank so the circuit gets higher pressure or is it not good ? Thanks by advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Replace you radiator hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben64 Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 Roger Here is a picture of today with 37°C and yesterday the diameter was a little bigger .... http://image.noelshack.com/minis/2016/25/1466595072-img-20160622-131341-1.png In my country (France ) there is few Subaru dealers : any good online shop for Legacy parts ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORULZleggy Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Replace you radiator hoses. Do full drain while your at it, and depending on mile replace the thermostat with OEM Subaru one. It's cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Oh yes please replace that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Hi I've just came back from a short "high speed" ride on highway ( 20 miles at around 100/110 mph) and as every time I ask a little more to the engine I check it and even under the car and I've seen the red square pipe ( around 2 inches ) getting easily one inch more in diameter directly after the clamp but no leak ... Is it normal as coolant Legacy system is without a pressurised expansion tank so the circuit gets higher pressure or is it not good ? Thanks by advance Not sure how the parts supply is in France, but first check your local auto parts store if they don't carry it you can try Amazon France just search for a upper and lower Subaru Legacy radiator hose. If the hoses are that old your coolant probably isn't much better so I would replace that with Subaru Blue coolant and a Subaru thermostat to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben64 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 well I've just replaced the coolant ( by a generic one ) as I'd had a leak at the radiator / hose connection ( clamp not tighten enough :p ) and a lot of rust ( 300 000 km ) into the radiator as you can see over the "bumpy" hose. I'm wondering if I'm not going to change the radiator too but my Subaru dealer works much more with other brands as Subaru is a tiny market in France so the parts are very expensive and auto parts stores have nearly nada ... and I'm a little afraid of amazon as you can find "all and whatever" ( bad meaning in french ) thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben64 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 one another thing : maybe it is not connected but since one or two weeks each morning first ignition ( the engine IDLE ) has lateral vibrations and after less than 30sec still at IDLE the engine stop vibration and there is no vibration at the other ignitions during the day even if the engine keep off during 5 hours ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Amazon has good and bad, read reviews, and plenty of OEM stuff on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Haha! That looks like bingo hag's arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdzowner Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 rogerclarkmotorsports ships worlds wide and has great pricing on samco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flander Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Get rid of those worm clamps on the hose and go with OEM clamps. The worm clamps put pressure right at one point and not all around the hose. They are good for a temporary fix but not long term. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben64 Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 Good advises ! thanks every one Finally I had a big leak but not the inflated pipe ... it is a small one of the left heater ... it is between the intake manifold and engine so impossible to access without removing the intake manifold ... Becareful guys because this pipe touch a " vertical excrescence bar" part of the engine block which seems to be here just to damage the pipe which is horizontaly cut over nearly two inches ... http://image.noelshack.com/minis/2016/27/1468175630-heater2.png curiously I 've just started the engine in order to not let it unused too long ( one week ) and there was no coolant leaking so can you confirm me or infirm that pipe gets coolant only if I turn on the A/C or only at higher temp air flows even if the A/C is off ? Maybe I not run the engine enough time ( 2 min max ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 find that image on opposedforces.com to better help us out since that was the 6 cylinder engine also (sorry literally just realized thats what you have, but seriously check out opposedforces.com). so on our motors it seems like it would cycle constantly since it bypasses the thermostat. it could just be a pressure related problem after the thermostat actually opens and then leaks. you can probably get away with replacing the hose and clamp and just ride on. Questions to the community: due to that hose expansion is it possible that it happens because the thermostat is not opening? things to check are hose temps when you are hot check both hose temps just by touch, if there is a difference there is a problem question to ben: has it overheated yet? hotter than normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 that hose connects to the water pump so maybe that might be do for a nice refresh of gasket maker. the water pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben64 Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 I've just change this last week the 2 hoses and the thermostat and now the hose does not inflate BUT now I have a problem with the coolant which goes to the coolant tank too much : friday I've got overheating and overpressure in the coolant tank and its cap goes off ... ( I'm lucky to not loose it ! ) The mecanic which swaped the hoses and thermostat was not enjoyed by working on a Subaru as they don't know them very well but he has accepted to do it but I've forget to let him the coolant swap process of the service manual so yesterday I've made it and get a good level and no air noises but after a short ride of 10min the coolant tanks level still go up and hear a little noise so I checked the radiator cap and see a gasket between the radiator and its cap ???? it is a little cracked and I don't see any description on the service manual or in this link http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Outback30L-5ATR/_54102_6024065/ENGINE-COOLING-RADIATOR--FAN/B13-450-03.html so maybe the gasket is not a genuine part and the radiator cap is maybe out of order ( the spring seems to work but I don't test it with the pressure control tool ) so I'm going to change it and I'm going to buy this https://allwheeldriveauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Coolant-Fill-Funnel.jpg to purge the air in the coolant system ... Why the Sub does not have a coolant tank pressurised like many other cars ? you are agree that the radiator have to be totally fullfilled by coolant until the radiator cap ? In which case the radiator cap vacuum valve ( not the Pressure valve ) opens ? how can the coolant pressure becomes lower than atmospheric pressure ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 I don't know a lot about cooling systems, but here are a couple thoughts. A new radiator cap is a good start. Yes, the radiator should be filled with coolant all the way. I have that yellow funnel kit, it is great. You might already know how to use that kit, but here's what I read which worked for me. Install the funnel in the radiator using the correct adapter. Fill up the funnel with a little bit of coolant. Not too much coolant, as the car heats up, the coolant level in the funnel will rise. Start the car, and let the car idle until both radiator fans come on, and you stop seeing air bubbles in the funnel. After that, stick the plunger into the yellow funnel, remove funnel from radiator, and put the radiator cap on the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 That huge yellow funnel make burping the car so much easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben64 Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 I've changed the radiator cap and it seems better but I still have level variation ( not always ) and bubble ( always ) in the coolant tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 I'm surprised no one else has said blown head gasket. The coolant level in the overflow tank will raise and lower as the engine heats and cools over night. If you see bubbles in that tank you might have a bad gasket. Can your mechanic do a HC test ? Hyrdocarbon test, that will rule out a HG if it passes. But a bad HG can make the hoses expand. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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