akaziggy Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 The issue: When I touch the brakes at high speeds (freeway) the steering wheel shakes like a belly dancer. Someone correct me if that can possibly be anything other than lousy rotors. Why I'm pissed: These rotors only have about 20K miles on them - so what the F? I obviously bought crap parts. I can't have that happen again, so... ...my question is: What brands/types of rotors should I look for? My car needs better. Now, I'm a "you-get-what-you-pay-for" kind of guy. I know quality parts aren't free. But I can't get another mortgage to buy rotors. Thoughts?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 It could be brake pad deposits on the rotors, which seems likely given the low amount of miles on the rotors. You can fix it by doing several hard stops in a row from about 60 mph down to 5 mph or so, driving for a minute to let the rotors and pads cool, then repeat 4-5 times. You can search breaking in pads on this site for a more detailed explanation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 ^ That works well I have had to do it a couple times on my cars to get rid of the shake. If you want to get new rotors though - Centric premium rotors - don't need to spend more. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 If it isn't pad dust, the next easiest thing to check is your lug nuts. Make sure they are torqued all the same. I think factory spec is 89 ft lbs. If some are tight and some lose, iirc that can help warp rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip J. Fry Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 The issue: When I touch the brakes at high speeds (freeway) the steering wheel shakes like a belly dancer. Someone correct me if that can possibly be anything other than lousy rotors. Why I'm pissed: These rotors only have about 20K miles on them - so what the F? I obviously bought crap parts. I can't have that happen again, so... ...my question is: What brands/types of rotors should I look for? My car needs better. Now, I'm a "you-get-what-you-pay-for" kind of guy. I know quality parts aren't free. But I can't get another mortgage to buy rotors. Thoughts?? im partial for the dba 4k. the lighter weight reduces unsprung mass and rotational mass. less unsprung feels good on the suspension. more compliant and active. less rotational mass is like the feeling of reducing heat soak. i briefly checked stop tech and the weights seem to be about the same but havent tried them yet AND they are cheaper than dba. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98legwag Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 I have a warped rotor as well. A friend of mine who was a mechanic for a long time recommend Centric Premium rotors to me. I bought them but have not installed them yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KartRacerBoy Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 But were your rotors really warped? Or just pad desposits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98legwag Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Mine are warped. The shop that did my state inspection told me and my friend's shop confirmed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 As other have stated, the 4th Gen's are know to build up brake dust on the pads. The normal fix is to re-bed the brakes. Do 4 or 5 almost stops from 55mph to 5mph, Then drive for a mile without touching the brakes. A few years back after coming down the Mt Washington Auto Road, my brakes felt great for a while. You need to get really hot to burn the dust out of them. That is when the wagon had Hawk Ceramic pads. They were for a DD but like most pads, need a good cleaning every now and then. I currently have Brake Performance rotors and ceramic pads on the wagon, they work good too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rang0 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Good info guys. I'm looking at getting my new brakes and the consensus I've gotten is centric premium rotors, but what pads are best? I'm looking at the akebono PRO-ACT or posi-quiet ceramics. I know there is hawk HPS too. This is for a DD GT wagon with about 280awhp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98legwag Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Good info guys. I'm looking at getting my new brakes and the consensus I've gotten is centric premium rotors, but what pads are best? I'm looking at the akebono PRO-ACT or posi-quiet ceramics. I know there is hawk HPS too. This is for a DD GT wagon with about 280awhp. I just put Hawk HPS on my 3.0R and I love them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 If it isn't pad dust, the next easiest thing to check is your lug nuts. Make sure they are torqued all the same. I think factory spec is 89 ft lbs. If some are tight and some lose, iirc that can help warp rotors. its 90 nm or 66.5 ftlbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip J. Fry Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 its 90 nm or 66.5 ftlbs nano meters? hehe. couldnt resist. Nm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 nano meters? hehe. couldnt resist. Nm? Can't tell if you're just trolling, but Nm is the abbreviation for newton-meters. It's how you specify torque in the SI system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip J. Fry Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Can't tell if you're just trolling, but Nm is the abbreviation for newton-meters. It's how you specify torque in the SI system. wow. uh. ok. the poster typed "nm" LOWER case n. meaning nano meter. capital n "N" would mean newton as in Nm. its 423am here and it can be a bit rough for some this early but im 100% positive i read the post correctly and then correctly teased him. if you want we can use the spring constant then compute rebound with mass and apply it to a cars suspension. it would be super nice to have numbers down to get a rough estimate on how a suspension may actually be. with mass we can reduce some weight and call it unsprung weight. should see some cool things after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Yep, you were trolling per the usual. You capitalize nothing and then attempt to tease the poster above for not capitalizing. You can try to sound smart by rambling on about mass and springs, but freshman level physics aren't going to impress anyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip J. Fry Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Yep, you were trolling per the usual. You capitalize nothing and then attempt to tease the poster above for not capitalizing. You can try to sound smart by rambling on about mass and springs, but freshman level physics aren't going to impress anyone. sounds like you like to eat a lot of cheese. try? its easy when im around people like you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 its 90 nm or 66.5 ftlbs Those numbers are incorrect (too low) and will lead to broken wheel studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fedaykin Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 When I'm bothered, I usually use 100Nm on my cars. That's pretty tight. 90 Nm seems like a factory figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quick4dr Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 80- 85 ft/lb will do the trick 110Nm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonaLisa Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I have always put 90 ft/lbs on my wheels. The spec is actually 89 ft/lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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