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2012 GT engine trouble


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As with most things, I find the vast knowledge that is here in forums of enthusiasts out strips any dealer, even Subaru themselves at times.

 

I feel they are burying their head in the sand, and I'm the one paying for it. Brief history: started getting engine code for misfires... Replaced ignition coil on cylinder 4 (corroded) kept happening. Replaced ocv on cylinder 4, kept happening. Developed a rough, shaky idle, they performed compression test, FAIL on cylinder 4 needed new short block and one of the ignition valves was warped and burnt. After going round and round with Subaru corporate, they write the whole thing off, ECM AND ALL $5500 they paid the dealer outside of warranty. Awesome, right?

 

2 weeks ago, got another engine misfire this time in cylinder 2, also noticed the same uneven idle. Since the block was replaced, car will bog down and often stall during the warm-up cycle once I start driving. I took it back, they flashed the ECM to address strange idle during warm-up, as it jumps around. Still keeps happening, took it last week and they performed a "chemical induction cleaning", no change. I have contacted corporate again, and waiting for a loaner to take back.

 

I don't want a new car, I have a great car that you can't even get anymore. I JUST PAID IT OFF.

 

What I need to know is, what is the root issue with the rough idle and stalling? I have seen multiple examples of this, but Subaru will not admit to any kind of systemic issue. How do I get this fixed? I hope one of you knows.

 

Much appreciated,

Lex

 

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Welcome leximus!! Sorry to hear about your engine problems. I am going to move this to the 5th Gen section so you get more pertinent feedback and exposure to your issue. The guys there will have plenty of ideas.

 

Please fill out your use info under your avatar so we know what region you are located in and that members responding to your posts in the future know what car you have.

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Welcome! Sorry to hear of your troubles. As someone who has experienced a few of my own, maybe a couple things to check out:

1) Clean the MAF - a dirty sensor can cause poor idle and performance

2) Check the intake vacuum at idle. It should be around 20" Hg after a minute or two of running. If the vacuum less than this, you may have a leak somewhere in the intake tract. This can also be checked with a boost leak test or smoke test.

3) If intake vacuum at idle is rough and no leaks are found, verify that the timing belt hasn't jumped 1 notch. These are zero clearance engines but in my case, 1 tooth was enough to cause poor performance but not enough to cause the valves to hit the pistons (thankfully).

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Welcome and sorry for your troubles. As Jackal stated the vac is a super easy way to look for problems. I never really thought about it until he noticed his was off. Then I started looking at my vacuum and noticed it is always right at 20 as he found out.

 

How long between the engine replacement and the new misfire situation?

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Not the best feeling to see someone else experiencing trouble. As stated check for leaks and vacuum, as silly as it sounds check spark plus gaps. Check all the intake lines running into the manifold, check for any loose electrical bits they may not tightened. Sometimes it's just the odd little bits and pieces overlooked causing bigger problems in a healthy engine
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Welcome and sorry for your troubles. As Jackal stated the vac is a super easy way to look for problems. I never really thought about it until he noticed his was off. Then I started looking at my vacuum and noticed it is always right at 20 as he found out.

 

How long between the engine replacement and the new misfire situation?

The rough idle almost right away, the stalling after about a month...

 

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Thanks guys I will make these suggestions if the damn dealership ever gets a loaner back for me... One note I was using a KN filter before, is it true the oil can foul the maf?

 

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It has been noted as a problem, but many will say that as long as its "properly" oiled, its not an issue. But then again, are you ever sure it's "properly" oiled. Many of us moved away from K&N since there are some really good reuseable dry filters out there now, like the AEM DryFlow. They are washable with soap and warm water.

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It has been noted as a problem, but many will say that as long as its "properly" oiled, its not an issue. But then again, are you ever sure it's "properly" oiled. Many of us moved away from K&N since there are some really good reuseable dry filters out there now, like the AEM DryFlow. They are washable with soap and warm water.

 

I used to use K&N Air Filters on my cars. Once I realized they were oiling my MAF sensor, I start moving away from them. I currently only used it on my truck, which is MAP based and has no MAF sensor. After washing and oiling them, I would use compressed air (from a distance) to get rid of the excess oil, the paper towel I put underneath would end up being half oiled. I would also clean my MAF sensor about a 1000 miles later after oiling. I think the air filtering of K&N isn't the best either.

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Update for those that care, no vacuum leak (sprayed brake cleaner all over, no revving... Is that normal??) But did a leak down test and found 10-20% drop, and threw a misfire code cylinder 2. So prognosis is do the exhaust valves. Could that be the issue with stalling during warm-up and shaking at idle?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
So the Valvoline guy is coming in on Wednesday to show them a new product process for cleaning engines of carbon deposits. Free for me! Guess worst that can happen is they blow it up and buy me a new car right?

 

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Ended up solving the problem?

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I highly doubt the carbon cleaning is going to fix your issue. The short block was already replaced, so the pistons should be clean, any mechanic should have clean excess carbon (if it was that bad) off the head. Also carbon build up doesn't cause the issues you are having in non Direct injection motors.
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I highly doubt the carbon cleaning is going to fix your issue. The short block was already replaced, so the pistons should be clean, any mechanic should have clean excess carbon (if it was that bad) off the head. Also carbon build up doesn't cause the issues you are having in non Direct injection motors.

Yeah I know. So will a valve job fix it? I don't understand how 10k miles ago he had the whole thing apart, and inspected, then replaced 2 of the valves and not the rest... Regardless the leak down test did isolate the issue to exhaust valves on cylinder 2. What what would cause that?

 

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You don't just replace every valve because one or two had an issue, that just isn't how engine rebuilding works, unless you know the cause of the failure is something that will likely cause a valve failure in another cylinder. However, a competent shop should have at the very least bolted a plate to the head for a leak-down test once the repair was made. And of course cleaned the heads to be sure there were no other issues.

 

It is impossible to say what would fix it at this point without a thorough diagnostic, which isn't going to happen on the forum, lol. If keyboard mechanics were that good real shops would be out of a job.

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