Dawson_LGT Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 So back in August I bought my 05 LGT Wagon. Couple of months later my turbo blew the rear seal I put oil in places it wasn't supposed to be. Which burnt one of my valves causing me to have to get my heads rebuilt at a machine shop. So I got a new 16g turbo and got my heads done. Me and my friend that does Subaru motors put it all back together. So I drove it a few hundred miles. All of a sudden my car would start knocking right when I would start it when it's was cold and would go away within a second. Then as I started driving it, it would knock from about 2600-2900 rpm. Also while I would put the clutch and start slowing down and put my foot on the brake the rpm's would drop lower than normal and the oil light would flicker and sometimes the car would die. Then with that my tgv's started having problems and they wouldn't open so when they were closed it would knock sooner and a little louder. Since they were closed it would also not make any power. So I ask anyone know what could be my problem and where my knocking is coming from and why my oil light flickers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 So was this motor tuned for the new turbo at all? Sorry if it seems like a silly question but the post doesn't mention it. Also have you checked your oil for any metal/glitter since this has been happening? I know the oil light turns on when there's basically no oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dawson_LGT Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 No I was going to get one in the spring. I was told that the turbo didn't have to be tuned right away since it's not a major upgrade. Yes I have and it is clean. I also have good oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Hmmm. I don't know if I can agree with that. Every turbo is going to respond differently and while the ecu can compensate somewhat for different afr's, it's ability isn't unlimited. You could be seeing more boost at times the ecu isn't prepared and a lean/knock situation could ensue wreaking havoc on internals. Are you running just wastegate boost until you get a tune? Or are you just running the stock tune and bolted a new turbo to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dawson_LGT Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Nope just stock tune and just bolted it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Nope just stock tune and just bolted it on. http://jalopnik.com/whats-the-most-nonsensical-car-bullshit-youve-ever-hear-1759240262 Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 So it turns out that your friend that does Subaru motors is an idiot and just cost you an engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dawson_LGT Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 So it turns out that your friend that does Subaru motors is an idiot and just cost you an engine. No he didn't we didn't even touch the block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8lolsubie Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 So let me get this straight. You put a bolt on 16g and was told you don't need a tune for a turbo upgrade (which yes is a major upgrade) and now you wanna know why your motor has given up a rod bearing and is loosing oil pressure hence the noise and oil light right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I almost thought this was trolling till I saw it on legacy owners worldwide. You need to stop driving your car yesterday. You need to perform a compression and leakdown test. You most definitely do need to be tuned for that turbo. Check all your vacuum lines, turbo inlet, intercooler, etc. Perform a boost leak test... I hate to make judgments, but it honestly sounds like you may be in over your head here. You need to spend a lot of time researching these cars specifically. So many nuances and very costly even if you do everything right. Anyway if you perform the suggested tests and compression checks out and you have no boost/vacuum leaks, then you can get a base tune before you start it ever again. If the engine fails those tests, then you tear it down and pray the heads are intact saving $ on the rebuild or new shortblock. These links aren't exactly your situation, but food for thought. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bnr-16g-and-ots-stg-2-tune-213809.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/drive-new-turbo-ebcs-without-tunei-185481.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-just-installed-new-turbo-no-boost-weird-noises-175157.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penguin Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 No he didn't we didn't even touch the block Yeah, he ******* did. You are hearing rod knocking from your rod bearing(s) being hammered out like fresh dog shit on a hot day. This happened because your larger turbo, capable of making a lot more boost than stock over a larger RPM range was in fact making that boost when the ECU was not adding adequate fuel. This caused knocking, which is what happens when the air fuel mixture detonates before your piston hits top dead center and the spark plug fires. This is a surefire way to break stuff in your internal combustion engine. Like rods, pistons, wrist pins, rod bearings, crankshafts, and maybe even main caps and journal bearings depending on the level of stupid. You don't have to "touch the block" as you put it in order to frag the block which you two have managed to do. This will now serve as a really expensive lesson in what not to do with a turbocharged car in the future. If you want a bigger turbo, you need to do the rest of the supporting modifications with it. More boost means you'll need more fuel to keep AFR out of the detonation range, plus running a bit rich at high boost acts as a way to keep the combustion chamber a few degrees cooler. So larger injectors and a supporting fuel pump are a good idea. Tuning the damn ECU for these changes is also mandatory. At this point you should also think about a larger charge air cooler to avoid detonation, keep temps down, and maximize power. There are others mostly for making more power with your larger turbo, but for engine longevity with more boost you need more fuel, and you have to keep charge air cool. Those are the minimums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08 LGT Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 No he didn't we didn't even touch the block Tomorrow, I want you to not drive the car at all, and because I see you are in northern Illinois, call P&L Performance (http://www.pandlmotorsports.com/). You need to explain what was done, what has happened since, and ask for advice as to what you should do next, and in what order to potentially save your engine from grenading. That's a great Subaru shop in your area and knows exactly what it is talking about. You can't just slap a different sized turbo in and start driving. It needs to be tuned, and you will be lucky if you haven't already catastrophically damaged the engine internals. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but your friend doesn't seem to have any idea what he's doing. You should not drive this car an inch until it is sorted out by a shop somewhere. Again, P&L is very reputable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoopMan Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 You need a new engine bro. You are in for a big surprise when the bill comes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 WOW.... poor wagon 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegGTLT Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Mother. Of. God. Please PM joeleodee For All Site Questions. He is the acting Admin and can resolve anything related to LegacyGT.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeleodee Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 This same exact thing happened to my buddy's car after he sold it. It got beat on and the engine blew. Rebuilt engine and upgraded turbo. No ecu tuning and it wasn't until 2 engines later that the new owner finally listened to us and got it properly tuned. These are great vehicles WHEN PROPERLY UPGRADED, MAINTAINED, AND TUNED! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penguin Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Update on your fragged rotating assembly OP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 subscribed for the little boy tears. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Everything that has been posted is correct except for one user's posts which one would it be? I've been wanting to use that emoji for awhile. But, seriously this is most likely going to be expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penguin Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Bump. I want the OP to tell us what happened. Probably already had to sell the car for scrap. To embarrassed to admit it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegGTLT Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Please PM joeleodee For All Site Questions. He is the acting Admin and can resolve anything related to LegacyGT.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Let's see: New 16G turbo to replace OE VF40-Check 2 people with absolutely NO business under the hood of a car installing said 16G-Check No new tune to accommodate HUGE increase of air-Check Death lean conditions on all cylinders but ESPECIALLY on poor #4-Check BIG pounding noise in engine of metal to metal contact-Check MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penguin Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 You forgot step 7.... Profit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dawson_LGT Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Actually my car goes into P&L performance on the 10th. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Actually my car goes into P&L performance on the 10th. Atta Boy:) Best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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