What fluids do you recommend?

[AZP Installs]

Motul Gear 300 NON-LS is what you want in all subaru MT and Diffs with the exception of IIRC 04-05 or 04-06 STi Rear Diff which had a mechanical LSD. Even on the other models like the LGT and the WRX and the STis that have a viscous LSD, the Motul Gear 300 is the appropriate fluid.

 

05-09 LGT has a Viscous rear LSD.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

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[GhiaAddict]

Revive, I'm finally about to change my transmission fluid with Amsoil. Car has 86k. Going to do Drain n Fill. My question is should I jack up car on all four corners or just the front? Only purchased 5 quarts. Will be doing an oil change as well to Amsoil 10w30 XL. Want to swap plugs but it really seems like a daunting task. Really want to get car tuned but need to get these swapped out first. Damn 3.6R is like a 300zx engine bay.

[FLlegacy]

I just jack up the front. You could also drive it up onto a couple of 2x6 boards.

 

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[GhiaAddict]

Yeah I just ended up jacking up the front. Oil change and Transmission drain n fill both went smoothly. Only had to replace 4 quarts with the transmission. So in about 12-15k miles I'll do another drain n fill. Not sure if it's solely mental but car does feel like it's shifting a lil smoother and the engine has quieted up a bit. I used 10w30 Amsoil XL synthetic this time around. Overall I'm pleased, still didn't swap the plugs, it's killing me though, cause I want to get this thing tuned and I know they require a plug swap to guarantee gap. Anybody have any videos of the process for any Subaru 3.6 vehicle they could recommend to motivate me more?

[FLlegacy]

It's really not that bad, as long as you have some short extensions. But in this heat...it feels like forever. Hardest part is getting the covers and coils off.

 

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[ItalianLegacy]

Ive used mobile 1 amsoil rotella and castrol last 3 oil changes i researched and now use Valvoline max life 10w40 synthetic blend and have been for a while so far its the best performing oil overall in my 3.6 and I would recommend it immediately for anyone to try and see for themselves its great in any type of driving better cold starts and holds temperature the best ive seen so far and trust me i put my ez36 through some tough runs.

 

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[Timothy.B]

Ive used mobile 1 amsoil rotella and castrol last 3 oil changes i researched and now use Valvoline max life 10w40 synthetic blend and have been for a while so far its the best performing oil overall in my 3.6 and I would recommend it immediately for anyone to try and see for themselves its great in any type of driving better cold starts and holds temperature the best ive seen so far and trust me i put my ez36 through some tough runs.

 

Are these all based on Blackstone results? I'm a little confused on these different oil viscosity that everyone is using. Manual says 5w30. Most people run 5w40 since it likes to shear down towards 5w20. You're running 10w40. 10w fine for your winters up there? It has been suggested that I switch from Amsoil since my temps get a little hot under continuous high load. Although I've heard that Amsoil has great OCI based on Blackstone labs.

 

Yeah I just ended up jacking up the front. Oil change and Transmission drain n fill both went smoothly. Only had to replace 4 quarts with the transmission. So in about 12-15k miles I'll do another drain n fill. Not sure if it's solely mental but car does feel like it's shifting a lil smoother and the engine has quieted up a bit. I used 10w30 Amsoil XL synthetic this time around. Overall I'm pleased, still didn't swap the plugs, it's killing me though, cause I want to get this thing tuned and I know they require a plug swap to guarantee gap. Anybody have any videos of the process for any Subaru 3.6 vehicle they could recommend to motivate me more?

 

When I change I usually drain them both and have a pan under them, then lower the car down and wait for it to fully empty. You might be good after a second Drain N' Fill. I just did my second one and the fluid coming out was basically the color going back in. I think I'll stick to once every other oil change now.

 

Get the TCU update for your transmission if you haven't yet. I still need to and hear it helps a great deal, especially from 3rd to 2nd when slowing down.

 

Here is my tutorial for the plugs.

 

It's really not bad at all. Just make sure you have all the right tools. If you can find a 1" 3/8 extension it'll be a bit easier and probably cheaper than the u-joint I got.

[brandon.mol]

I don't see why you would run a 40 in an EZ36D. They have a very low torque per cylinder. I'd say they should use 0w or 5w 30. The EJ255 benefits from 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic oil but I doubt the EZ36D does, and probably the opposite.

[GhiaAddict]

So is 10w30 Synthetic not a viable choice for a 86k mile EZ36D?

[FLlegacy]

So is 10w30 Synthetic not a viable choice for a 86k mile EZ36D?

For our climate, a 10w30 would be good, or a 5w40 or 10w40. Check the owners manual with the operating ranges for different oil weights.

 

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[fredrik94087]

Ive used mobile 1 amsoil rotella and castrol last 3 oil changes i researched and now use Valvoline max life 10w40 synthetic blend and have been for a while so far its the best performing oil overall in my 3.6 and I would recommend it immediately for anyone to try and see for themselves its great in any type of driving better cold starts and holds temperature the best ive seen so far and trust me i put my ez36 through some tough runs.

 

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Different motor, but in the FA20DIT, I started with RP 5w30. Then went to T6 5w40. Then went to Redline 10w40 (great oil but expensive). Now, I am using Mobil1 15w50 (cheap enough and has 1200 ppm of ZDDP...supposedly the higher the content, the less wear)

 

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-in-motor-oil/

 

I let the car idle until I see the oil temp light up at 86F. I change the oil every 2500 miles, so I am not as concerned about gas in my oil. I will not get gas in the oil idling like that because I am not at or below freezing (40F and below is where you get more gas in the oil while idling).

 

Haven't noticed any sluggishness or reluctance to rev.

[ItalianLegacy]

Are these all based on Blackstone results? I'm a little confused on these different oil viscosity that everyone is using. Manual says 5w30. Most people run 5w40 since it likes to shear down towards 5w20. You're running 10w40. 10w fine for your winters up there? It has been suggested that I switch from Amsoil since my temps get a little hot under continuous high load. Although I've heard that Amsoil has great OCI based on Blackstone labs.

 

 

 

When I change I usually drain them both and have a pan under them, then lower the car down and wait for it to fully empty. You might be good after a second Drain N' Fill. I just did my second one and the fluid coming out was basically the color going back in. I think I'll stick to once every other oil change now.

 

Get the TCU update for your transmission if you haven't yet. I still need to and hear it helps a great deal, especially from 3rd to 2nd when slowing down.

 

Here is my tutorial for the plugs.

 

It's really not bad at all. Just make sure you have all the right tools. If you can find a 1" 3/8 extension it'll be a bit easier and probably cheaper than the u-joint I got.

just voicing my opinion and what works for me i dont have any lab results just driving and logging it just out performs what ive previously used.

 

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[brandon.mol]

How are you determining the "performance" of the oil without a UOA? That's literally the only way to know, other than tearing down the motor after many miles and measuring/inspecting parts.

[FLlegacy]

Knock, temperature, subjective feel of smoothness...there are ways lol.

 

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[brandon.mol]

^^^ LOL

 

There is no way in hell you are going to "feel" the difference between a "good enough in theory but not really" oil and a great oil

 

At least not until its way too late and you have rod bearings spun 6 ways from Sunday.

 

Ughk.. I've spent too much time on BITOG. I'm becoming an oil curmudgeon.

[blklgt05]

I just got my kit from blackstone labs, gonna send a sample in at next oc. I recently changed from T6 (after 110k) to Schaeffer's 9000 5w40. Most uoa I've seen on BITOG for this oil is pretty solid, slight better HTHS and TBN than T6.

[FLlegacy]

The way some of you guys tell it, engines seized and spun bearings left and right before UOAs...lol. I will add a little perspective, in this day and age I would say 25 to 30% of the population does their own maintenance of that maybe 1 to 2% of that do UOAs and vehicles manage to survive for the most part.

 

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[wraedeohed]

I just got my kit from blackstone labs, gonna send a sample in at next oc. I recently changed from T6 (after 110k) to Schaeffer's 9000 5w40. Most uoa I've seen on BITOG for this oil is pretty solid, slight better HTHS and TBN than T6.

 

I've been a loyal Schaeffer man for years, as far as oil goes....there's none better!

[brandon.mol]

The way some of you guys tell it, engines seized and spun bearings left and right before UOAs...lol. I will add a little perspective, in this day and age I would say 25 to 30% of the population does their own maintenance of that maybe 1 to 2% of that do UOAs and vehicles manage to survive for the most part.

 

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Heh.. yes. However there is a BIG difference between "engines in general" and "high pressure turbo 4 cylinder engines" when it comes to oil requirements. Particularly Subaru ones, and particularly ones running substantially higher cylinder pressures than stock.

 

If a bad knock event occurs, your ring lands and rod bearings are susceptible. Ring lands are on their own to tough it out but the right oil can be the difference between a spun rod bearing and another day.

 

2009 EJ motors were particularly prone to failure due to poor quality bearing material used.

 

I'm not saying that everyone needs to do UOAs.. but those with turbo Subarus should at the very least use oils with a proven track record, otherwise you are asking for trouble! A naturally aspirated Subaru?.. use what ever random synthetic oil and it'll be fine!