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Thomistopheles' 06 OBXT Limited - Baller Husky Hauler III


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It's very chunky. Never had an issue with my DWS either. But started hitting that edge only on the driver side on hard bumps, even with .75" top hat spacers (which, are now removed).

 

I have banged on it and tried to push / pry it away with a crowbar and it's better. Hard hits I am still rubbing though.

 

I wanted to go to 245/45/18 right now I would be completely unable to run them. Need to make room.

 

I'm planning on going to 245/45/18 soon. I have these on my Konis that will be installed in a couple weeks:

 

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/top-hats/whi-kca409-whiteline-com-c-caster-camber-adjusting-strut-mount

 

Should these provide enough camber, to avoid front fender work?

 

New summer setup will be 18x8.5 +33.

 

***Camber/caster newb here***:confused:

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These advantage of top plates is you can add negative camber without pushing the wheel closer to the strut. The fitment secret of top hats is you can dial in positive camber on the camber bolt to get more tire/wheel to strut clearance, then add the camber in with the top hat.

 

The disadvantage of this Whiteline style is you have to unbolt the hat and rotate it. Then again it probably makes a lot less noise than slotted top hats. Also, the nuts on slotted hats are prone to slip.

 

I've never run either kind on a Subaru but have run slotted hats on other cars.

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Couple stupid questions:

What did you use to cut the fender flare? Does an Exacto knife work or do I need a saw / dremel etc?

 

How far down did you cut the flare? Just on the fenders or down into the bumper (blue line)?

I might have some stupid answers ;) I did some trimming with a razor, cleaning up certain areas, but the majority should be done with a dremel. Safer that way. I cut down to that line, no trimming of the bumper or the spot where it meets the flare/fender.

 

Stopped by Topshelf to drop some headlights off and see some of my shiny new parts, one of the guys had his wife's OBXT for the day. I like the height hers is at, might have to go down to legacy sized tires eventually so I can go lower.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/2016-04-12%2015.21.30_zpsgtgzhfcj.jpg

 

Trans showed up, short block is being assembled right meow. One of my dad's coworkers traded in his WRX, so I got a smoking deal on some freshly rebuilt FHI 4 pot calipers, pads, and a no name top mount he had lying around. Pads were sold off right away since I plan on running something more aggressive.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160422_150655_zpsbstm1utk.jpg

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160422_185350_zpsl67fhzhl.jpg

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160422_235603_zpskwrnurmj.jpg

 

I went ahead and painted them racekor red, because 4 pots look weird bare... and red makes things faster. It's science or something. I am also doing stoptech sport rotors in all 4 corners, braided lines, and something along the lines of Hawk HPS or EBC red stuff pads.

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Stopped by Topshelf to drop some headlights off and see some of my shiny new parts, one of the guys had his wife's OBXT for the day. I like the height hers is at, might have to go down to legacy sized tires eventually so I can go lower.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/2016-04-12%2015.21.30_zpsgtgzhfcj.jpg

 

Also, if you decide to go lower like the black OB, your exhaust isn't going to work. Trust me, I know. You'll need to cut holes in the bumper and pull those cans up, get a JDM bumper, or just hack off the tips, tuck up the cans and go with turn downs.

 

For me, going from 225/40/18s to 225/45/18s made a huge difference in scraping the tips. With the 40s I was always scraping them. With the 45s it's a rare occurrence, and fender to ground measurement went up just +5/8".

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I can attest to Rebourne's advice as well, at my height I scrape my tips all the time on steep grades, etc. having stiffer springs makes it a rare occurrence elsewhere, but being that low with big low hanging cans (hehe) really reduces your departure angle.

 

Also, don't even bother with the hawk pads. I'm a total hater after using the HPS 5.0 pads. They glaze easy, bake after just a few hard stops, and don't feel to good either(pedal wise).

 

If I were to do it again I would go with StopTech, Ferodo, or Carbotech. Probably Carbotech because you can mix their street and aggressive pads on the same rotor, I believe.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Yep, planning on hacking up the bumper to tuck them up when I go lower. It's not just the cans, the Y pipe hangs low too. Need to switch to legacy rear upper control arms if I go any lower too. Snagged a spec B ABS module off a local parts car, from what I've read on the webbernets that should put my speedometer in the right ballpark when I drop down to the 225/40r18s. Difference of 2% or so between that size and the stock 215/45r18 spec B size.

 

If we spin it up to 7k, gears should top out at these speeds with the 25.1" tires:

1-37 MPH

2-60

3-88

4-118

5-138

6-177

 

2961 RPM in 6th @ 75 MPH

 

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160427_152254_zps79u8m68m.jpg

 

Shiny.

 

Might be ditching the ID1000s. My buddy wants to buy them off me, and I was already on the edge about bumping up to 1300cc so I can push into the high 400s... And if I'm doing that, some radium fuel rails would look nice in there... and if I'm doing rails, I should convert it over to parallel with nice black braided lines and fittings... and a stock fpr would be silly with all that, an aeromotive AFPR would do a much better job... :spin:

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Well, didn't take me long to convince myself to get all that... this should be it for the list of new stuff:

 

New OEM case halves

OEM nitrated crank

Manley pistons

Eagle H beam rods w/ ARP bolts

King XPG bearings

11mm STI oil pump

New OEM oil cooler

OEM STI gasket + seal kit

Killer B oil pickup

Killer B oil baffle windage tray

ARP CA 625+ head studs

Gates timing kit w/ WP

SEVI-1010 exhaust valves

SIVN-1010 intake valves

GSC Beehive valve springs + Ti retainers

Brian Crower 272/272 cams

ACT Xact streetlite flywheel

Xtreme Duty 6 puck clutch

08 STI trans

R180 diff

Stage 5 Driveshaft Shop Spec B axle + hub kit

OEM spec B shift linkage bits

Cobb Spec B stage 1 drivetrain package

OEM Spec B axles (temporary use during break in, DSS axles are 5 weeks out)

Injector Dynamics 1300cc injectors

Radium fuel rails

Aeromotive A1000 FPR

1.7 boatloads of fittings and braided hose

Mishimoto radiator

HKS equal length header

Blouch Dominator 1.5XTR

 

I did get the Hawk pads, always been happy with them for street/daily use. Carbotech pads are great, but on a car that will see zero autox or road course use I don't need the option to switch back and forth between 1521s and xp8, xp10, etc... and Hawks are much cheaper.

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Excellent! Wow you have a ton of work to do, getting that all installed.
Brakes I'll do this weekend if I have time, 6mt swap and go fast stuff is being done by Topshelf. I've pulled it apart enough times for my current mods, time to let them do it so I can stick to knocking out headlight builds.

 

I was planning on just running the Grimmspeed crosspipe I bought with ported manifolds... but a buddy who used to have a GR a couple years back came across some parts he forgot he had. I was ready to impulse buy the hell out of them, but he would only let me pay for shipping... early birthday present I guess :eek: Now I have to sell the GS pipe I just bought like a week ago lol

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160503_103240_zps2plfocvi.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160504_170650_zps7wb71dar.jpg

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Header and radiator arrived Friday afternoon, a little dusty from sitting so long but they're brand new under there.

 

Did the brakes Friday night, got impreza fitment brake lines by mistake (listed under outback, which was short for Impreza Outback Sport I guess :rolleyes:) so I need to revisit those after I get the right ones. Fronts worked OK but the rears are completely different. I found the spot that I've been rubbing up front... big shiny bare metal spots toward the back of the wheel wells. Rear upper control arms had some real nice impressions from my cut bump stops too. Legacy arms and 225/40 tires have been ordered, and I'm going to cut the bumper and modify the Y pipe and axle back for more clearance, car needs more low.

 

Rental car is reserved, car goes to the shop Tuesday. :spin:

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160507_025000_zpsdlb3skwc.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160507_024937_zpspvymlgwt.jpg

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Tonight I debadged the rear, removed the decade old flaky black vinyl from the chrome trim on the rear, replaced the red/silver L7 overlays with black/silver, painted center caps black, and cleaned the engine bay one last time before it all comes out.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160509_003637_zpso5pcck1r.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160509_003958_zpsf5syu8um.jpg

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I've been down with a nasty bug all week, sleeping like 20 hours a day... and the other night I was about to go get my wife from work only to discover that the UPS guy placed a stack of 4 tires six inches from my screen door, and then stuck the control arms in that gap. UPS is so sick of delivering car parts to my house that they tried trapping me in my own home. :spin:

 

I got a 2016 F150 while my car's gone. I miss my red headed stepchild already.

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I've been down with a nasty bug all week, sleeping like 20 hours a day... and the other night I was about to go get my wife from work only to discover that the UPS guy placed a stack of 4 tires six inches from my screen door, and then stuck the control arms in that gap. UPS is so sick of delivering car parts to my house that they tried trapping me in my own home. :spin:

 

I got a 2016 F150 while my car's gone. I miss my red headed stepchild already.

 

Sucks to be sick! Just keep sleeping.

 

and LOL at UPS! Funny sh*t.

 

I once had a set of tires delivered to work, and the jerks put them right at the secretaries front desk, instead of the load dock in back. The front area smelled of fresh rubber for days. I got hell for that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160523_173547_zpsczgnxgwg.jpg

^The mighty Ferd F-teen thousand in action. Loaded up my old block, trans, and other miscellaneous parts to be hauled back to my shop.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160523_171916_zpsvheyvkxz.jpg

^Long block is ready to go in now, this was taken while Josh was adjusting valve lash and getting things all buttoned up. Heads came back super clean.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160522_190538_zps1zrvxvxx.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160520_211619_zpst7fptthu.jpg

^Next projects once I pick up the car... Legacy rear upper control arms, WRX pedals, S204 lip, and finishing my mesh grille. I decided to wrap the outer part of the grille in carbon fiber instead of paint. If I have any extra CF cloth and resin I'll probably do the chrome trim above the rear license plate too.

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Which WRX pedals are those?

 

You'd need the WRX drive-by-wire pedal assembly. It's super easy to swap in. The clutch and brake covers slide off/on. I used the covers off of my 02 WRX, because I still had them and I swapped in STi pedal covers.

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It's aliiiiiive :spin:

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160527_193639_zpsxnknje2v.jpg

 

Grille is coming along too. I enlisted the help of my buddy Connor since he's done this once before. Brushed on the resin, let it tack up, and he laid down the carbon fiber cloth and the first top coat. After it cures I'll trim the excess material, sand it, put another coat on, let it cure, sand, another coat, let it cure, and so on until I eventually sand, clear, wetsand, polish, and install the hex mesh.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/20160527_221827_zps32suplr7.jpg

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Progress. This is the third coat of epoxy, starting to level out pretty well. One or two more sessions of sanding and coating ought to do the trick.

 

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/13322196_10206602740813672_7705448801979336147_n_zpsh2tragmw.jpg

 

Should be able to pick the car up tomorrow or Tuesday! They just need to finish up some odds and ends and it'll be ready. Mount my new tires, tuck the exhaust, all the finishing touches.

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