seanyb505 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 Was planning on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Do you have the correct FW bolts for the smfw ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 Yes. Edit for info: Actually I have three sets of flywheel bolts now. I ordered a set when I replaced my clutch about 1.5 years ago, a previous owner had already made the switch, and the used flywheel I bought recently also included a set. p/n 800610740 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Made my last "fun parts" purchase. Southbend clutch, Innovate LC-2, Exhaust wrap & ties, and Group N engine mounts. Need to send out the spare injectors I picked up for cleaning, and resurface a used stock WRX flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Post 3 - I've been watching classifieds for a used lwcp, though lately they've been coming up dry. Has anyone heard of VMS Racing? They have what looks like a decent piece for quite a bit less than the other go-to options. A – Decided not to get this, got tired of waiting for classifieds and funding to line up, bought a GS pulley from Amazon. Post 7 - What to coat the machined heads in? Second question: Is there something I can use that I won't have to wipe down for assembly? i.e. A substance that will protect the polished surfaces for 6 months, and dissolve nicely into the oil upon start up? Third question: Planning on using conventional Castrol 5w30 and Redline break in fluid. A – I didn’t coat them in anything. They look fine now. Planning on coating cam journals and buckets in assembly lube. I haven’t started the engine, but still planning on this oil combo for startup and the first few oil changes during break in. Post 11 - I did ask the tuner I plan to use about the wideband and he said wideband would be helpful, but not necessary. A – Not really a question, but I did decide to add a wideband to the recipe. Innovate LC-2 p/n 3877. Post 13 – I was making mention of the AVCS cam gear bolts being difficult. A – I waited until I ordered the gear wrench from Company 23 to hold the gear while I gently applied pressure with a breaker bar. Worked perfectly. Post 14 - Thinking of how I'll be monitoring engine vitals for the first few months. I like the idea of using the tactrix and BtSsm app, but at the moment that has no oil pressure capabilities. A – Using Tactrix and the BtSsm app. There have been developments in that thread on utilizing the TGV sensor feeds to add oil pressure and wideband sensors. Post 17 – Thinking about what bolts to use for new short block on engine stand. A – The short block came with two bottom studs, so I grabbed two grade 8 10x1.25 nuts, and two grade 10x1.25 bolts for the top of the engine. Length will depend on engine stand used. Washers used all around. Post 23 - Nuts and bolts for turbo to up. Right now the plan is to use the grimmspeed TMIC - studs or bolts? I've also seen some recommendations for a Mr Gasket generic water pump(thermostat?) gasket for turbo to IC. Is that overkill with the GS? A – Going to use bolts for the turbo to up pipe and turbo to TMIC connections. Going to rely on the grimmspeed provided pieces instead of the Mr Gasket piece. I probably would have used it if sticking with stock intercooler. Post 25 - Quick q - I was told by Heuberger to open the package before signing for it. Is FedEx cool with this? A – I rerouted the first engine to a FedEx store after missing the delivery at my house. I didn’t need to open the box, as the engine was making its way out of the packaging! Sent it back after speaking with Heuberguer, and the second block was better. I didn’t open before signing, since the packaging looked better, and I knew Heuberger would be familiar with my order. Turned out okay. I think that’s most of the questions I’ve had through the thread that I’ve come to conclusions on. I’m also planning on putting together my full parts list with p/ns and prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 So when the ARP instructions say to install the studs "Only Hand Tight" does that mean as tight as I can get them by wrapping my fingers around the stud, or by using an allen wrench in the end of the stud and only going as tight as my hand can get it? Probably just my fingers, but I figured I'd ask anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I'd snug them with an allen. That's what I did on the Evo and seemed fine. And it's what I plan to do with the Subie. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Took your advice of just snugging them. I could feel as I was torquing the nuts that the studs were also working their way in. Not a lot, just a slightly different feel for a few degrees on the 90 ft/lb sequence. So both heads are on now. Since I'm missing the very front bolts for the cam caps, I'm pretty stuck now. I don't see much sense in installing the caps if they're going to need RTV, and I won't be able to fully torque one side down before the seal sets. Sounds like a recipe for a leak. I think the rest of the assembly is going to have to wait until I can pull various bolts off the old engine, which still owes me another 24 days of service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 The same happened to me with the studs. I'm also glad I snugged them. But was surprised that they spun a little during the 90lb sequence. I don't recall the ones Ive used previously doing that. They were L19s, but similar design. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Pics: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20160220_143103_zpsmovnshal.jpg http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20160220_155524_zpss3ttw2tl.jpg Shiny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 I've spent the last few weeks cleaning and prepping small things that I have access to now rather than holding everything off to build week. Next Friday in 10 days, I'll drive home from work, have a beer, and start dismantling the engine bay. Last weekend I cleaning the hard oil lines, Back of the passenger head coolant line, scrubbed some surface rust off the oil pan and repainted, and wrapped the first few feet of the down pipe. (Thanks artard for coming over) There are still some parts/assemblies I can make progress on: -Any calibration and set up for the Innovate Lc-2 (thinking at least get the power source wired up) -I think the AEM Oil pressure sensor pigtail needs to be assembled -Install fuel pump -Bolt coolant hard lines to turbo -Verify BtSsm is set up to read from Oil pressure sensor and LC-2, and that all parameters required for logs are getting logged properly. (Some of the parameters aren't default in BtSsm, I just need to set up the new ECU addresses.) -Clean and turn WRX flywheel -Wrap up pipe Can anyone think of anything else I could be doing ahead of time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Sub'd for the fun. Where did you install the oil pressure sender in the block? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Not installed yet, but leaning toward a galley on top of block. Thanks for bringing that up - a quick search for various install solutions learned me that I need more adapters and connections to make it all work. I'll do a little more searching to see whose solution I like best and replicate that. I can't remember why, but I had decided a while ago not to use the stock location. I'd like the stock sensor to retain it's place (one less thing to worry about) and I think I've read the adapters up there can be leaky. Should be able to use this: http://prosportgauges.com/subaru-oil-galley-plug.aspx Basic encouragement found HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 What stock sensor are you talking about? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Oil pressure switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I originally bought the OE galley adapter. Didn't work with my Autometer sending unit. BSPT vs NPT (autometer). It was close, but not enough to satisfy me. I bought the Prosport one and it works great. I don't have the PCV installed yet, but I don't think it's going to be an issue with the Autometer sending unit. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 What are the autometer dimensions? Ordered the prosport adapter earlier today. Took a gander at the lc2 instructions, should be easy enough to have working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 I beleive it's 3/4" x 2-3". May be 7/8. It's not the old style can. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 Measured the AEM out of curiosity: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/AEM_zps1blitsrw.jpg Picked up a bunch of small stuff that others most likely have laying around: wires, M12x1.25 bolt for EGT bung in up pipe, lower radiator hose, various vice grips, copper washer assortment and some hose clamps. Also had a chat with my friendly local Napa clerk on fuel hoses. My plan is to inspect stuff under the intake manifold when I start tearing the engine down and determine what needs to be replaced then. Progress over the last few days: Downpipe wrapped http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Downpipe_zpsauwoglcq.jpg Oil pan cleaned up and painted (there we a few small rust spots I polished down) http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Painted_zps96mqvdun.jpg Magnetic Drain plug. My current plug doesn't thread smoothly all the way down by hand, so I needed a new one anyway. http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Oil%20pan_zpsz0voolf1.jpg Added various hoses to the turbo http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Turbo_zpssq9eorbx.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cBax Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Nice progress! Depending on your BCS setup, you'll want to change the T at the turbo. Are you sticking with the stock bleed style? I just looped mine for now in such a way that I can just cut it and install the BCS. I'll be running way below WG pressure for a while anyways. '05 Outback XT www.facebook.com/baxleysspeedshop www.baxleysspeedshop.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Wonderful...I have the grimmspeed ebcs, so you're right I don't need that little hose assembly at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Are you still on schedule to start the switcheroo tomorrow? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 17, 2016 Author Share Posted March 17, 2016 Best I can tell, yes. I'm sure there will be some hiccup or setback, but yeah I'm still planning to start tomorrow when I get home from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 So the hiccup or setback came in the form of an end-of-day client question as I was walking out the door, and having to drive 30 minutes north to get a stock crank pulley. Originally the plan was lw grimmspeed and stock wrx flywheel. Since I was running a lwfw since I got the car, I purchased a used flywheel from a Subaru shop near atlanta. Upon cleaning it during the week, I found spider cracks all over it - so now I don't want to surface it much less try to install it for the long haul. Next option was to stick with the lwfw I installed a while back. I know how it's been treated, so I'm okay with sticking with it. BUT, I've had enough shops and members tell me a lwfw and lwcp shouldn't be used together. So cheapest option was to call up someone parting out a 15 sti and grab that one for $25. He had a fender bender black on black 08 LGT that I told him he'd have no problem selling the black interior. His response was he was going to use the car to shoot for 700hp to showcase what his shop could do. Hopefully I can keep up with how that build is going. Anyway, I finally got home, relaxed by setting up the garage, and got to work. Her spot for the next several days: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Garage_zpsbb6y0mnh.jpg I don't think anyone has seen this angle before, but for posterity, start of work: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Bay_zpsplnvv2gv.jpg And how it looked when I went to bed: http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Friday%20End_zpsc9w4pqqh.jpg I tried to remove the whole exhaust, but all bolts are seized or rusted solid. Next option is to get the down pipe off the turbo completely, and if that doesn't work, stick a dremel in there somewhere. I also noticed the downpipe bracket near the down stream o2 sensor was/is missing its bolt. Lately I've been hearing some creaking under acceleration. Think the two are related? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 And just now noticed the passenger side grounding strap was severed, and the heat shield isn't secure. I can't wait for what I find next lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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