Basic Rebuild aka Stupid Question Containment Thread

[cBax]

I'm sure it has to do with the used short block I received. They didn't tell me that for either of the ones I got, but I did anyways after signing for the used one the 1st time. The FedEx guy wasn't happy about it, whatever.

[seanyb505]

Wait Heuberger sent you a used short block? How used? Reconditioned, or literally has seen some stuff?

[cBax]

Used used. Old gasket material, dirty pistons, crap inside... I didn't notice until after a week or so. They corrected the problem quickly. Luckily, it wasn't holding me up.

[Max Capacity]

Nuts and bolts for turbo to up. Right now the plan is to use the grimmspeed TMIC - studs or bolts?

 

I've also seen some recommendations for a Mr Gasket generic water pump(thermostat?) gasket for turbo to IC. Is that overkill with the GS?

 

Yes that gasket is over kill for the GS tmic.

 

Bolt the turbo to the up pipe along with a new oil return hose.

 

How's your intake tube to the turbo ?

[seanyb505]

No idea. Getting a silicone in case

 

Added various oil and coolant line part numbers to the list.

[seanyb505]

Small update. FedEx came Friday AM before I got home from work. Rather than risk missing them on Monday, I requested to pick up the short block package at a local FedEx store. Got there Monday night, and the crank snout had punched through to the outside. Some sweet scuffs on the face of the snout.

 

Didn't bother opening it, just called heuberger to find out options. I rejected the package, and they'll send another. Should be here late next week I'm assuming.

 

Kinda curious if I'll see the same block, or if anything will be different in the packaging so it doesn't happen again.

[Max Capacity]

You were smart to send it back. Your not the first to have issues like that.

 

Tell them to hold the block at the fedex store, you'll pick it up there.

[seanyb505]

Engine arrived yesterday, and took advantage of some black Friday sales. Grimmspeed crank pulley and TMIC, Invidia Q300 exhaust ordered.

 

Originally I didn't want to get any exhaust, but the spring bolts were unbreakable when I did the clutch a while back.

 

I was happy to see Heuberger had packaged the engine better. BBBB Block. Planning on verifying the ring gaps before more parts arrive.

[seanyb505]

Lots of activity over the last 10 days. Grimmspeed TMIC and crank pulley, Q300 exhaust, oil cooler and pump, timing kit, water pump, tstat, oil pressure sensor, cam gear 10mm allen bit all ordered and arrived. Picked up the engine stand this weekend, plan is to assemble that and get the engine on the stand tonight.

 

I had to move some purchases around to take advantage of Black Friday prices on TMIC and exhaust, so assembly is getting pushed back slightly. I'm also realizing that most of the parts I have on the bench now require bolts being used on the current engine. Goal now is to have ring gaps verified and oil pan and windage tray clean and ready for assembly when the time comes.

[seanyb505]

Little bit of a picture diary thus far:

 

July 9:

Picked up a used set of D25 heads (off a 2012 WRX) from nasioc classifieds. Good price, but I probably should have done my homework as to their history. The seller did not treat them nicely. I probably would have passed had I known that. I thought it was a good price considering how frequently B or D heads come up.

 

On the kitchen table:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20150709_175626_zpsmq9tuaqa.jpg

 

$330 later they were cleaned by a recommended local shop, with valve clearances set. I printed off a page from the 2012 FSM and highlighted the measurements to use.

 

Back home in their temporary crib by late August. Free up pipe and later WRX/STi oil pan box in background:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20150827_184140_zpsxa18zqow.jpg

 

This is worry some right now:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/Message_1436480160660_zpsnrz9chre.jpg

 

I'm thinking I may be in the market for some good used cams, or wait and see what mine look like when I get the current engine out. Part numbers between B and D heads are identical for cams on part sites. I might buy an extra set just to have on hand in case. I'm sure that may have an effect on the valve clearances, so I may end up being in the market for buckets as I don't have the tools for the budget clearancing method.

 

In the mean time, gasket set 10105AA720 ordered, received, and laid out:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20150728_202241_zpsokswh83m.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/untitled_zpsavrkbzd2.png

 

Used Grimmspeed EBCS, barbed T fitting, torque wrench (mine recently broke) were purchased. No pics, use google/imagination.

 

Rather than hope my oil pickup was going to work for the next 200k miles, I ordered a Moroso pickup. Significantly cheaper than the Killer B, and looks like it will work nicely.

 

Next I pieced together a full set of back up cam pulleys. Rather than take up time during the swap week, I wanted to have a spare set of AVCS gears to clean in the lead up to March. I ordered the Company 23 tamper proof 5pt T30 bit, but it feels small in the bolt heads. Without the gear wrench tools I'm not able to break the bigger bolts loose. Wrenches will be purchased in about 2 weeks, along with some kroil. If anything goes south, I know I have a working set on the car right now that I can borrow parts from or use entirely.

 

Late September I found a used Invidia two bung downpipe on nasioc for $137 shipped. I had budgeted myself 200 for a used downpipe before I would buy a new CNT for 210 at the last minute.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151003_101915_zpssery1pbt.jpg

 

Next items were a used Cobb heat shield and some JDM TGV deletes. Originally I hadn't planned on either. The shield was only 45 shipped, and at this point it seemed like a drop in the bucket.

 

The TGV delete topic came up through conversation with Heiche about getting various signals through to his BtSsm app I'll be using for all gauges. The app allows for custom user fields if you know the address. With left and right deletes, there are now two open 5v "addresses" to customize. Planning on oil pressure (AEM sensor purchased) and wideband (Bosch 4.9 will be purchased). That solves the wideband monitoring and logging issue.

 

Next fun item was the turbo itself. I've had a lot of conversations with a few people to help me figure what I wanted in a turbo. At the end of the day I decided to go with a low mileage, stock vf52. I was pleased with this showed up after sending $550 to someone who had "never used UPS"

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151029_180212_zpsjwhi7j15.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151029_180440_zpssvzasv9p.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151029_180319_zpsg2nb4y3e.jpg

 

No shaft play, no waste gate crack, and little to no discoloration on the exhaust housing. Cutting back on the turbo plans also freed up some funds..

 

Next was the short block. As mentioned earlier in this thread, the first round of shipping wasn't exactly smooth. The crank snout pushed completely through the single cardboard exterior, and made a 3-4" hole. Called Heuberger and they said send it back, and they can send a new one out. A few more weeks, and this showed up on Black Friday:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151127_094236_zpscxzjyoka.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151127_095130_zpshwswhuir.jpg

Soon...

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151127_095206_zpsdvjdiqtr.jpg

 

Upon inspection, the block was a different one than was sent out the first time, which I am deducing by the lack of the scratches on the face of the crank snout. Of interest, however, it was pointed out to me this is a 10103AA030, and not 050. Still a 257, so I'm not terribly concerned.

 

In a fit of general excitement and anticipation of what would be Thanksgiving meal #3 later than evening, I ordered some more things thanks to some freed up funds:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151202_193759_zpsq7lcvg1n.jpg

 

The UPS man: "Is this for the Outback!?" It's a Legacy, but yes.

 

Q300:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151202_194521_zpsdt2kazzi.jpg

 

UPS man: "Oh this is going to be good!"

 

And many small, uninteresting parts: GS crank pulley, timing belt, Aisin water pump, 10mm oil pump, oil cooler, AEM oil pressure sensor, 10mm cam gear bit, tstat, and a 6 pack of Subaru oil filters. All pictured somewhere in this stack:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151203_074552_zpshrochjnd.jpg

 

I'm close to actually putting tools to use at this point. Though I've realized many of the parts I have require the bolts that are currently in use on the car right now. I go back and forth between just ordered clean, shiny bolts and just going to a junkyard with a list of compatible Subaru options.

 

Progress now, as it....stands:cool:(yeaaaaaaaahhhhhh!!!):

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151208_184744_zpsymuv7m6l.jpg

 

I need to verify piston ring gaps, get a quick idea on the valve clearances (I know they change when heads are fully on, but I'd like a baseline), verify cam journal clearances, and clean the oil pan.

 

The car is ready:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t217/seanyb505/20151210_175857_zpsgdrhcbiz.jpg

[Scruit]

Definitely double-check the valve clearances. Most of mine were out of spec when I got them back from the machine shop.

[seanyb505]

Small update - I cleaned all the boxes off the table so I could set the sb on it while I check the ring clearances. Just need to source a crank bolt before I start that. I could make a junk yard run, or I could wait to order it with my next OEM parts order.

 

The Company 23 AVCS wrench came in the mail yesterday, and I was able to break free the security bolts on my spare gears. I love having the right tools.

 

My last big purchase is the clutch, which won't happen until next month. For now, my big question mark is on various hoses and metal lines. I'm going back and forth on what to purchase beforehand.

 

I think most of the coolant/vacuum hoses are compatible between my current 2005 ej255/B25 and new ej257/D25 engine, but then I think, "Some hoses are visibly newer, and others have been on the car since June of 2004. Just buy new hoses." The easiest solution is to wait until I can take everything apart and inspect to replace as needed, though I'm hesitant as I'd like the swap to only take a week, and running to the local dealership will cost me more than ordering parts from online vendor sources beforehand. I may blend my options and wait, but make my hose runs to Advance/Autozone/Oreilys/Food Lion.

 

The other similar question I'm having is what to do for oil feed lines. I'm not positive about the driver's side, but I know the passenger side D25 head has a different setup than the Legacy B25 head. AZP recommended the IP&T filtered line, and I've started a conversation with Mike about what's included and what OEM lines that replaces, and which ones I'll still need to replace. I had thought about reusing the hard AVCS lines that came with my used heads, though they've close to a year of hanging around and being exposed to dirt and moisture. I'm trying to determine if it's worth it to find an effective way to clean and prep them, or spend the $10-15 on new lines.

 

Decisions, decisions.

 

Hopefully I can start getting some large assemblies together in the next 2-3 weeks, or I'll start to consider myself behind schedule.

 

Immediate to-dos:

- Clean AVCS gears

- Clean Oil pan and windage tray

- Notate valve clearances on the bench

- Get a bolt and oil/coolant/vacuum line order placed somewheres

- Check piston ring clearances

- ????

- Profit!

[Max Capacity]

Run some clean water or some engine cleaner thru those old hard lines and blow them out.

 

I like to use Acetone. But it will pull any paint off, be careful.

 

Heater hoses and coolant hoses would be a good idea be replaced.

 

I've had great luck with Spec 2+ Clutches. m sprank has had great luck with Southbend Clutches.

[seanyb505]

Yeah, I had planned to go with Spec2+ based on your recommendation and review on the aftermarket clutch thread sticky.

[seanyb505]

Hmm...The AVCS hard lines are $43 and $39...looks like I'll be freshening those up in the garage.

[Max Capacity]

The hard lines should be fine. My hard line to the turbo banjo bolt is frozen at the AN fitting. Its not a big deal. it hasn't ever leaked. I think you can see it in one of the pictures in my link.

[seanyb505]

Finally figured out the hose order. Involved knowing what I had, what I needed, what changed from head to head, and what I wouldn't need if I used the filtered line. Trying to create an exhaustive list without actually getting to take the systems apart and evaluate wasn't easy.

 

If I got it wrong then I've budgeted a decent chunk of dollars for March so I can react to potential emergencies or missing pieces of the puzzle.

[seanyb505]

IP&T Filtered Oil line IPT-FTSV2-SUB ordered.

 

I'm to the point of reassembly on the first cam gear. Hopefully can get the second wrapped up tonight.

[seanyb505]

Finally finished the reassembly of the first AVCS gear. I've been glancing at this thread as I work:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2713834

 

Working out in the garage was literally 7 degrees colder than my refrigerator tonight. I know other people have worked in colder temps, it's just not for me. I'm debating pushing the swap back 3 months to take advantage of wife's July 4th week off instead of first week of April week off. At least with my office there's extreme flexibility, so I can make that call if I get to March 17th and nothing's done.

 

Otherwise, 67 Days until I start removing the current engine.

[cBax]

Ha. Try staying motivated when its much colder than your freezer! I'm leaning more towards pushing mine out until April every day.

[seanyb505]

Yeah I wouldn't even bother if it was anything close to 0 lol. I'm going to push toward the original late March time frame, knowing if I get close and not prepared, I can always go back to work that week, and ask for a later time off.

 

I'm starting to get some decent heartburn about the heads. The cams and cam journals, valve clearances, valve seating, bump in compression...

 

I know the shop I had them done at cut valve tips to get clearances set. I'm thinking they may be tight, so I might be on the lookout for extra buckets laying around.

 

Right now my plan to either justify the heartburn or make me feel better:

- Plastigauge to check cam journal clearances

- Check valve clearances, knowing they are on the bench and will likely get smaller when bolted down

- Quick and dirty valve seat sealing test - Probably use wd40 on the seal and blow some compressed air in to see if any bubbles. Not the most scientific, but should illuminate if there are large sealing issues at least.

- measure combustion chamber volume.

 

Should I coat the cam journals with oil prior to measuring valve clearances? They're dry right now.

 

Anything else I can do to determine whether or not to feel okay with these?

[cBax]

I'm in the same boat regarding heads and valve spec. The machine shop did them twice. Once with cheap ex valves, 2nd time with better ones. After picking them up the 2nd time, I asked about re-checking after they are bolted on the block. They said not to worry about it. I'm not 100% comfortable with that. And I know they trimmed the tips of the Inconel exhaust valves.

 

I also had them polish the cam journals.

 

I hate worrying about motor stuff during assembly.

[seanyb505]

Spent some time measuring the passenger head last night.

 

I also found that putting both cars in the garage at the same time minimizes cold air entry, and the heat from the engines keeps it warm for several hours. But now I have much less space to move around. Like 2 feet.

 

Cam journals were in spec. I found out I'm missing the bolts that hold the cam cap on closest to the cam gears. I took that into account while reading the cam bearing oil clearances. Plasti gauge read like it was on the loose side. I'm sure another few 14.5 ft/lb bolts would tighten it nicely. I was also happy to see most of the valves were in spec. .008in for intake, the two furthest back exhaust valves were in spec at .014. The two front exhaust valves were .017 and .015. Again, I think this would change with the addition of all the required bolts being torqued.

 

I know this will absolutely change once the heads are torqued to the block, but at least I know they're not too tight before going on.

 

Driver's side coming tonight. I can post all measurements later.

[seanyb505]

Hoping to get some actual assembly going on this weekend. I'm curious to see how the new crop of GT cars fare at Daytona, so assembly might take a back seat.

 

I've been reading a lot on clutches and pming with m sprank again. I think I'm going to go the Southbend St2 Daily route. I paid for a used smfw and some injectors to refurbish before swap week.

[Max Capacity]

Have the smfw checked by a machine shop before you install it.