jonah_ow Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 The rattle is like a clatter that lasts maybe .5 seconds if I depress the clutch quickly when at low speeds in 1st or 2nd gear. It does not seem to happen in reverse. I do have some TOB rattle, which is apparently normal?? I have Cobb the Cobb shifter bushings and short shifter in my car as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 For all the reports of a "push type" I have never actually seen a picture on here of an LGT user with one. There was a great thread a few weeks ago that went into pretty good explanation. While installing my clutch on the bench, I did wonder whether putting the friction plate on backwards would cause the springs to hit the flywheel and give out the symptoms the OP describes ie no drive. WHOOOOOPS. I had it backwards and fixed it above. Push pushes on the throw out bearing against the pressure disc, where the pull pulls on the throw out bearing that is actually held (clicked into) the pressure plate. Here is a pull type with a fork. This is out of a Porsche. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads14/IMG_82371238406057.jpg Here is a push type http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc454/stoeven2/photo-135.jpg Again push on the left and pull on the right. You can actually see the slave cylinder on the left one at the very top and slightly to the right off center. http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w303/06Saabaru/compare2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 That was the thread I was talking about. Looks like I got a little mixed up though - its the pull type I have never seen on here. Mine clearly had the push type - ordered all of the parts from Underdog and it was a pretty simple install. I used this video and the manual for some guidance. The car in the video is a WRX, looks like it has the clutch on the right. I'm still intrigued on how this setup didn't work for the OP - any updates on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I have never seen a pull type clutch in a 5MT LGT, and I have worked on very early MY05s. Not saying there is 0% chance but I have yet to encounter it in the past decade. Can certainly check any ViNs to see if the clutch system is different. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonah_ow Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I am still rather concerned about the rattle when depressing the clutch at low speeds. I have found I can eliminate it by keeping a small amount of throttle applied when pushing in the clutch. What on earth could this noise be? It has made the sound since I drove it off the lot from that hack transmission shop. I also have a faint rattle/whining noise in neutral with the clutch out. It changes with engine RPM if I rev the car in neutral with the clutch out. The noise will go away when I press in the clutch as the transmission spins down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt166 Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I am still rather concerned about the rattle when depressing the clutch at low speeds. I have found I can eliminate it by keeping a small amount of throttle applied when pushing in the clutch. What on earth could this noise be? It has made the sound since I drove it off the lot from that hack transmission shop. I also have a faint rattle/whining noise in neutral with the clutch out. It changes with engine RPM if I rev the car in neutral with the clutch out. The noise will go away when I press in the clutch as the transmission spins down. Didn't you revert back to a dmfw? My old DM had a rattle but only while in gear - when I took the whole thing apart I could feel some play in the flywheel between the two masses. I also had a bunch of shudder and a whistle when depressing the pedal - I thought my TOB was toast but upon pulling it there was just a little play. Now, its early days, but I have no shudder, whistle or rattle. The drivability is much better. I have the TSK also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonah_ow Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 That was the thread I was talking about. Looks like I got a little mixed up though - its the pull type I have never seen on here. Mine clearly had the push type - ordered all of the parts from Underdog and it was a pretty simple install. I used this video and the manual for some guidance. The car in the video is a WRX, looks like it has the clutch on the right. I'm still intrigued on how this setup didn't work for the OP - any updates on it? I believe it came down to me having been sent the wrong parts, combined with an uncooperative and obstinate shop. I had a Subaru master tech go to the shop and see that the clutch components were not compatible. I do believe that whatever SMFW kit they ordered would have worked, but they were too lazy to actually measure up the difference beyond looking at the stackup height and deciding it would not work.... My plan at this point is to save up for a 6mt swap in a couple of years, and ditch the troublesome 5mt for good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonah_ow Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Didn't you revert back to a dmfw? My old DM had a rattle but only while in gear - when I took the whole thing apart I could feel some play in the flywheel between the two masses. I also had a bunch of shudder and a whistle when depressing the pedal - I thought my TOB was toast but upon pulling it there was just a little play. Now, its early days, but I have no shudder, whistle or rattle. The drivability is much better. I have the TSK also. For reference, this is the EXACT noise I have when pushing in the clutch at low speeds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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