legacyshawn Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I just ordered 4500lm 5000k VLEDs LMZ H7 for low beam and the 3500lm 9006 LEDs for the fogs. Should be here soon and will let you all know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatcrapp Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 I just ordered 4500lm 5000k VLEDs LMZ H7 for low beam and the 3500lm 9006 LEDs for the fogs. Should be here soon and will let you all know how it goes. The VLEDs - those are Philips modules, right? funny how the world is divided into cree or philips for LEDs. For my flashlights, i preferr cree - but for house lighting, i prefer philips... better CRI and more even (imho) - for the car world - who knows looking forward to your results! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn164/amm203/DSC07393_zps0v97rtjl.jpg Why is the end of your plug like that? I clicked the link you provided. All the same info but when I received it and went to install it that end is different for me. The end of mine is covered and I can't insert the conector from the car. I have an 05 but shouldn't matter. Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Well, I ended up taking a dremel to OPT7 connector and making it llok like the one above. The prongs are also different, smaller but I made it work. Wrapped it up in electrical tape and secured with a zip tie. Also a tip. Since we aren't having the ring seated around the bulb properly to obtain the east to west. You can install the ring first, close the metal clip and then install the bulb. This will help eliminte the chance of breaking the plasitc on the housing. which unfortunately always happens as the cars get older. Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 The VLEDs - those are Philips modules, right? funny how the world is divided into cree or philips for LEDs. For my flashlights, i preferr cree - but for house lighting, i prefer philips... better CRI and more even (imho) - for the car world - who knows looking forward to your results! Yes they are. Phillips LMZ chips (45w per bulb for the 4500lm) I'll throw up some before and after pictures of the light throw comparison Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 Well, I ended up taking a dremel to OPT7 connector and making it llok like the one above. The prongs are also different, smaller but I made it work. Wrapped it up in electrical tape and secured with a zip tie. Also a tip. Since we aren't having the ring seated around the bulb properly to obtain the east to west. You can install the ring first, close the metal clip and then install the bulb. This will help eliminte the chance of breaking the plasitc on the housing. which unfortunately always happens as the cars get older. That's very strange. Are you sure you got H7s? Doesn't make sense as to why the connector would be different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 Yes they are. Phillips LMZ chips (45w per bulb for the 4500lm) I'll throw up some before and after pictures of the light throw comparison Looking forward to seeing how these look! You're absolutely right that 6K is a bit too much. 4500-5000K would be perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 That's very strange. Are you sure you got H7s? Doesn't make sense as to why the connector would be different. They should be. I'll have to double check when I get back home. Drove the car today no issues. They where plug n play, save for the connector and the dust cap. Big thanks for the thread and write up. I am very happy with the savings and being hassle free of having to rip apart the housings. This should be a sticky. Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Got my VLEDs in today. I replaced the VLED VX3 3000k bulbs with the newer VLED 3000lm 5000k bulbs because of the better warranty and I'm not too blown away but my reason was because my old Nokya hyper yellows burned through my yellow laminX film on my fogs. These are the older VX3 3000K LEDs with yellow LaminX This is what it's like with the new 5000K LEDs with the yellow laminX. Really a weird color but brighter for sure and much more even color Next for the low beams, I was honestly disappointed especially because the depth and rotation of the LED is adjustable in the VLED LMZ's. I just couldn't get the hotspot to match even close to factory. Here are some variations: LEDSs on the right side 4 year old OSRAM Rallye's on the left Maximum depth (collar screwed on all the way) with LEDs in veritcal position (up and down) Max depth in horizontal position Minimum depth (collar screwed on by only two threads) in vertical position Min depth in horizontal position I liked the minimal depth at up and down position SURPRISINGLY so that's what I did some further pictures with. It was a foggy/misty night but it kinda actually helps to show the beam pattern of at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprezkid Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 So how was output of the lows compared to the osrams as far as distance and use ability in night driving? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Osram 65W Rallye bulbs will always throw farther in the stock projector/housing... End of discussion. The LEDs light up more foreground and sides better. Also, keep in mind my Osrams were 4 years old and they lose much of their brightness after a year. But..... Since I never had and issue with my far distant light throw but more so the lack of light spread, I'm going to keep the LEDs. One more thing to note with the a VLEDs LMZ lights is that you will need to heavily modify the dust cap to the size of the heat sink. I bought rubber caps to modify my stock caps leaving the heat sink open to the engine bay. Till then, back to the halogens for a few more day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatcrapp Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Are they passive or actively cooled? Also - what rubber caps did you wind up getting? I was thinking a while back about something like that - an accordion style boot similar to a CV boot but less deep, of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 If your asking me, they're actively cooled and I just bought the VLED boots in the clearance section. They'll be here soon and I'll put up pics of the dust cap setup. Hopefully it works! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 If your asking me, they're actively cooled and I just bought the VLED boots in the clearance section. They'll be here soon and I'll put up pics of the dust cap setup. Hopefully it works! Wow just google searched those boots and came across these.. http://www.vleds.com/vx3-seal.html Is this what you're getting? I'm guessing using these work for the OPT-7s too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 That's exactly what I got. I'll report back once I get them installed. Probably next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuclear Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Guys, what do you think about this type 9006 in B13 Outbac's fog lights: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1PAIR-30W-led-ETI-Chips-headlights-All-in-one-car-9005-HB3-9006-HB4-LED-head/32306077813.html?spm=2114.031010208.3.64.bPisaj&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_9,searchweb201644_2_10001_10002_10005_301_10006_10012_10003_10004_9905_62,searchweb201560_2,searchweb1451318400_6149 or this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/371304206027?item=371304206027&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuclear Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Founf great work of comparsion here http://honda-tech.com/lighting-107/**-official-led-headlight-conversion-thread-**-3224660/page3/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fedaykin Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Post #77 on that thread is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuclear Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Yes , Philips` H4/H8/H11/H16 LED are perfect. But - there is no HB4 (9006).... ;( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatcrapp Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Just ordered one of the newer batches of philips LEDs - 5200 lumens and 55W per bulb. Adjustable collars, etc. Spoke with the vendor (they are all re-boxed chinese made but the guy i spoke to was part of their tech team and made the following claims) - he says they are DRL safe - the controllers scale current as needed, and will accept 9v-20v input. (they aren't just plug-in bulbs, they have a controller, similar to a ballast in HID systems - although with a completely different function. Anyways - some of these kits are bulb only, but the higher power ones seem to be controller + bulb). They will dim in 3 steps, should the heat threshold of the diodes be reached. Even if the fan breaks, they will always provide some light - not get shut off completely. They are 6000k, however with the increased luminance, look perfectly white - no blue fringe or tint. Provided a few customer shots, and this appears to be the case. I will of course test. Mind you this could all just be BS to make the sale. They were a little more expensive than the Opt7s. Money back in the first 30 days if i hate them (again, claimed.). I should be getting them this weekend - hopefully i can get them in if it's not storming. If it is storming, i'll be too busy playing in the snow lol. LegacyShawn - I bought a set of the boots you mentioned. They don't fit in lieu of the dust caps - thats for sure, however it looks like it'll work if you cut the end of the dust caps off, and then use the boot pointing inward... It'll be on my to-do list as part of this. Hopefully these are a viable option, used in that way. *edit - no I'm not expecting these to be a true 5200lm brightness - LED claims are sort of like wattage claims in stereos lol. There's no real standard for measurement that they adhere to. That said - you can look up the efficiency of a diode, and its amp draw and make reasonable assumptions. Most of the 3000 lumen kits are measuring at 2000 or below - mostly matching or slightly exceeding the incandescent they replace. If I can get a true 4000 lumens per bulb out of these, which would approximate HID output - I'd be very happy. Realistically, I'm betting somewhere in the 3's. Also - I bought a snazzy light meter so I can test vs my osram +30s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuclear Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Just ordered one of the newer batches of philips LEDs - 5200 lumens and 55W per bulb. Adjustable collars, etc. Spoke with the vendor (they are all re-boxed chinese made but the guy i spoke to was part of their tech team and made the following claims) - he says they are DRL safe - the controllers scale current as needed, and will accept 9v-20v input. (they aren't just plug-in bulbs, they have a controller, similar to a ballast in HID systems - although with a completely different function. Anyways - some of these kits are bulb only, but the higher power ones seem to be controller + bulb). They will dim in 3 steps, should the heat threshold of the diodes be reached. Even if the fan breaks, they will always provide some light - not get shut off completely. They are 6000k, however with the increased luminance, look perfectly white - no blue fringe or tint. Provided a few customer shots, and this appears to be the case. I will of course test. Mind you this could all just be BS to make the sale. They were a little more expensive than the Opt7s. Money back in the first 30 days if i hate them (again, claimed.). I should be getting them this weekend - hopefully i can get them in if it's not storming. If it is storming, i'll be too busy playing in the snow lol. LegacyShawn - I bought a set of the boots you mentioned. They don't fit in lieu of the dust caps - thats for sure, however it looks like it'll work if you cut the end of the dust caps off, and then use the boot pointing inward... It'll be on my to-do list as part of this. Hopefully these are a viable option, used in that way. *edit - no I'm not expecting these to be a true 5200lm brightness - LED claims are sort of like wattage claims in stereos lol. There's no real standard for measurement that they adhere to. That said - you can look up the efficiency of a diode, and its amp draw and make reasonable assumptions. Most of the 3000 lumen kits are measuring at 2000 or below - mostly matching or slightly exceeding the incandescent they replace. If I can get a true 4000 lumens per bulb out of these, which would approximate HID output - I'd be very happy. Realistically, I'm betting somewhere in the 3's. Also - I bought a snazzy light meter so I can test vs my osram +30s Who is the manufacturer? May i ask for a link? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatcrapp Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Who is the manufacturer? May i ask for a link? They are SNGL - http://www.amazon.com/SNGL%C2%AE-Bright-9000lm-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B00T171AKC They might be totally craptastic, I'm not vouching for them until I receive my set lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprezkid Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I'm very intetested to see this happen and the results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahoseman Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 They are SNGL - http://www.amazon.com/SNGL%C2%AE-Bright-9000lm-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B00T171AKC They might be totally craptastic, I'm not vouching for them until I receive my set lol. Just to be clear, you got the: H11 (H8 , H9) - 110w 10,400Lm 6000K Cool White and these fit into low beam projector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 LegacyShawn - I bought a set of the boots you mentioned. They don't fit in lieu of the dust caps - thats for sure, however it looks like it'll work if you cut the end of the dust caps off, and then use the boot pointing inward... It'll be on my to-do list as part of this. Hopefully these are a viable option, used in that way. Yeah... I rushed it with the boot install in conjunction with the stock dust caps and i drilled in the center of the cap expecting the LED to come straight towards the center. OOPS, should have checked, because the back of the LED is pointed up a little once installed. Now I have a 2" hole in the dust cap but doesnt center on the cap when installing. I'll keep working and grinding untill it works. Otherwise, I called VLED's and they said they offer bigger flexible rubber cups that can be used. Basically it fits on outside edge where the factory dust caps meet the housing and we can just drill a hole, put the shaft of the LED through, screw on the LED collar, mount, and then seal outer edge of the boot with say a ziptie. http://www.vleds.com/rubber-housing-caps.html they come in different diameters... will need to measure and buy appropriately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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