hometown104A Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 I re-read that. I'm not suggesting the OEM bolts had anything to do with the threads stripping. I have no clue why this happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 If I did go with a light flywheel, it would probably be the ACT at 14.4 lbs. The others (exedy 12.7lbs, and SPEC 12.5lbs) may be too light and through a CEL..? Especially since I am running a lighter crank pulley as well. Please confirm or call B.S. on this. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Just a pic of my car being discussed. This is from May 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Do not put a LWFW on the car. With the LWCP you will get a CEL. Besides that, the drive line increases. Don't do it. Save you money, just buy the clutch have Mark turn the FW, that's what we old guy's call resurfacing the FW and brake rotors. I went with a Spec 2+ clutch from "underdog" because my Spec 2 began to slip at 50,000 miles at my power levels. The pedal feel is like stock. I was talking with a Tech at Spec, he say's they recommend a 2+ for turbo cars. I now know why. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 With the block out, a new clutch also makes sense but I dont want to blow the budget more than it is. I was having no issues with the clutch prior...but I will be increasing my torque soon with parts and tune... hmmm.. A lightweight flywheel is tempting as well. Suggestions? From the research I did, the impression I walked away with is that many (but not all) of the people who get CELs from their LWFW also have lightweight crank pulleys. This past winter I replaced my OEM dual mass FW with a 12lb LWFW from Competition Clutch (WRX replacement). I don't have a LW crank pully, I haven't thrown a code even once, and I have no rattle noise like some people experience. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 If you're going to change the clutch, you should then install a TSK3 kit. It is a throw out bearing kit which prevents the transmission snout to get destroyed in case the throw out bearing gives up on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Joe the Tech at Rich's knows to put grease on the tranny snout. That's the trick the factory missed. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I don't think it is the issue IMHO. The issue arises when the throw-out bearing seizes and grenades in there. It will take the trans snout with it, whereas the tsk3 has that sleeve to protect the snout from getting shrouded. anyways, fyi.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 xt2005- Thanks for the input. Hopefully with a new TOB and clutch, I wont have an issue with this. I plan to take it easy and not ride the TOB. A quick search on FredBean: Subaru Legacy GT Tranquil TSK3 Replacement Bearing $95.00 Legacy GT Tranquil TSK3 Sleeve Kit $165.00 I would only need the sleeve kit if my new clutch comes with a new TOB, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 The sleeve kit comes with a new bearing to fit over the sleeve. Factory TOB will not work with that kit. The replacement bearing is for those who already have the sleeve kit and need the bearing only. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 You don't need the TSK3 kit just keep it stock, you'll be fine. It's ARP heads studs you need and a clutch kit. As I said before Joe will grease the snout and pilot bearing. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 I got the car back from the shop today finally. It feels really good. Nice to have no CEL, and my SI drive, cruise control back! The ACT clutch feels great. Lower engagement as expected, only slightly stiffer feel, other than that pretty normal. Just had the stock SMFW resurfaced for $65. I had Group N engine and trans mounts installed which cleaned up the shifting alot. I ended up getting the TSK3 kit just for extra insurance. I noticed no chatter so far. I gave them the Perrin turbo inlet to install and they said even with the intake manifold off it was a total PITA. I may be the only one running an after market inlet with the stock air box. It does not fit perfectly! The stock accordion hose from air box to inlet is a bit scrunched up due to the size of the inlet but it seems to work 'ok'. I'll post pics tomorrow. Time to install my bullet proof TMIC kit, new DP, DW fuel wiring upgrade (already installed the DW pump), and EBCS, and get a tune! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Great news! Now that you have your car back, if you don't own an AP I would strongly advise that you use a device/software similar to this to make sure your engine is always healthy, free of knock and stuff. Knock kills engines. see: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-bluetooth-adapter-app-229709.html This app has helped me fix issues before it got worse, or damage my engines (e.g. catch boost leaks, failing MAF sensor, failing injector, etc..) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Glad to hear that. I was thinking about you while driving to work today. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 xt- I do have an AP and I am running the COBB OTS Stage 2. I am scheduling a dyno tune within the next 2 weeks to make sure the engine is strong and healthy for years to come. The Bluetooth dongle and app look really cool. The AP has all that info but it would be nice to see all at once on a big screen! Update on ACT HD clutch: nice and smooth still. no complaints other than it takes 2 tries to get it into 1st gear from a stop. Does this indicate a clutch adjustment is needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 OK good. Then, do track your A/F fuel learned values (A through D) regularly, as well as FKC, FLKC, and IAM at the very least. Those are in my opinion very important to keep an eye on. Something I like about this app is the fact that it has audible alarms that can be set up for almost anything: in my case, I set up an alarm if/when the car begins to knock. So for instance, if my car is knocking between 2500rpm-3500rpm while i am accelerating, the alarm would go off during that rpm range. Then it gives me a knock event report with all the engine conditions, for further analysis later on. I do love these features a lot. Very helpful. Anyways, good luck with everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 12, 2015 Share Posted June 12, 2015 Give the clutch a few day's. I seem to recall my Spec 2+ was a little funky for a few day's. It's been fine for over 6000 miles now. I think my car wanted to move forward while starting it a couple mornings. Another thing that might help is side step the clutch pedal in neutral with the engine running. Just try and move your off the pedal as fast as possible. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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