Max Capacity Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 PM underdog, he can get you what you need. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 PepBoys has 30% off all online orders right now and free shipping for orders over $100. They don't have the go-fast-bits that rallysportdirect has, but for 30% off and free shipping it's almost worth it just to stock up on coolant + oil + filters. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Now's a good time to get in there and take care of the consumables - any hoses, gaskets, etc... that might need to be done. Could also consider replacing the turbo inlet hose as the stock ones are known to develop leaks, and it's a royal pain in the ass to change with the intake on the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 And I feel your pain - my valves were cooked too (Cobb Stage 1 for many years). Unfortunately I was between a rock and a hard place and there wasn't any time to put a parts list together, so all that time and money I'm still at a stock engine. Do what you can now, you'll thank yourself later. Oh, make sure the water pump is an OEM Subaru one, and not something you get in a Gates timing belt kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 ssbtech- thanks for the advice, and the understanding. It does suck putting money into a rebuild that could otherwise be spent on go fast parts. This is the second car in a row I've had to take the heads off. My Jeep Liberty had a cracked valve and 2 years later the transmission was rebuilt. So this is the last problem I thought I would have with a subaru. I'm trying to look on the bright side, that it is an opportunity to make it better and faster. I'm doing some minor upgrades after the heads are back on and will get a proper tune this time. The turbo inlet hose will get looked at. It would be nice to spring for a perrin unit but I'm trying to stick to a budget (key word, Trying). The shop is currently planning on using the Gates timing belt/water pump kit. I've read that the gates pump is "bad", but is this a "serious risk of failure bad", or just not as nice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Reports on the Gates pump are all over the place, which to me suggests one thing - shoddy QC. And don't get me started on the paper gaskets they ship with them. Oh, and have you done the Killer-B oil pickup tube yet? I suspect Subaru resolved the spotty issues with the oil pickup tubes that were cracking (I don't recall any problems with them after about 2006) But now is the time to do that if you want. Removing the oil pan with the engine in the car is a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Joe at Rich's replaced my Gates water pump after it had 20,000 miles on it. You can use a Dayco timing belt kit and have Rich or you can stop by Suburban Subaru in Manchester and pick up a OEM pump and inlet. IMO you don't need a Killer B pick up. Have Eastwoods inspect your for cracks at the braze joint. It was a issue with late 05 to mid 06's. Both Rich and Mark work with Suburban Subaru. Rich has had me call to order parts at times. They have even delivered the parts to him. I'll try and stop by after work on Monday and touch base with Rich and Mark. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 I'll call Rich first thing Monday as we'll see if he can cancel the gates kit order and go that route. I plan to swing by maybe Tuesday or Wednesday and visit Eastwoods as well once they have the heads. I work in Manchester and can pick up the oem pump on the way. I owe you for all this help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Yeh, I didn't think the pickup tubes were an issue after 2006. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Just a quick update: The heads are back from the machine shop and are going back on the engine today. As expected, they found that the exhaust valve in #4 was burned and wasn't sealing. They ground that valve and you could see it was not even. They replaced that valve and I kept the old one The rest of the valves were ok and they machined everything and cleaned it up. They also machined the face that mates to the block so I don't have leaking head gaskets later on. I don't know if this means I'll have slightly higher compression now or its so little it won't make any real difference. The shop should have everything put back together today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Thanks for the picture. Did you see that piston on the counter with the valve stuck in it ? I love to stop by there, always so many interesting things to see. Great bunch of guy's too. Was Angelo there ? he's my tranny guy, lives in Windsor Locks. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 I DID see the piston with the valve in it! Crazy. Also a bent valve from a vtec. I guess someone put in too aggressive cams and when the vtec engaged the first time it destroyed the valves. Mark is a really nice guy. I did not meet Angelo but he probably was one of the guys working on the bench. I met Mark's dad. Its a cool old mill building. Lot of history in that place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Do you know what exhaust valve clearance they are going to use? The manual says 0.35 +/- .05mm. I just had this discussion on the forum, and some people advise to set the clearance a tiny bit on the higher side (e.g. 0.36mm-0.375mm), since clearance gets tightened over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldmemberXT Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 And I feel your pain - my valves were cooked too (Cobb Stage 1 for many years). I'm trying to decide whether to go with Cobb Stage 1 tune (2006 OBXT 5M) - most of what I've read says it's an improvement over the OEM tune, but are you suspecting the Cobb Stage 1 tune contributed to burning the valves in your motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 No, the Cobb tune fix's the OEM timing flaw. That damage started to happen long time ago. My wagon was on Cobb AP from 8000 miles. At 154,000 miles the valves were all ok when the heads were rebuilt. I didn't go stage 2 till 142,000 miles. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbc84 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Let me know about what was the cost to do that work? My 05' wagon might have same issue but on cyl 2. Compression was around 35psi on cyl 2 and didnt change after adding a little oil to that cylinder so prob valves as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Let me know about what was the cost to do that work? My 05' wagon might have same issue but on cyl 2. Compression was around 35psi on cyl 2 and didnt change after adding a little oil to that cylinder so prob valves as well. The cost for that will be a new short block, gasket set, rebuild the heads, and labor. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Let me know about what was the cost to do that work? My 05' wagon might have same issue but on cyl 2. Compression was around 35psi on cyl 2 and didnt change after adding a little oil to that cylinder so prob valves as well. did they do a leakdown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbc84 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 did they do a leakdown? No we just did the quick compression test at home ourselves. The cost for that will be a new short block, gasket set, rebuild the heads, and labor. Can I get away with just getting the heads machined and new valves if needed? + gasket kit, is new short block really needed? Been thinking of swapping the entire motor from my 08' sedan, since i have a new motor being built for the sedan in progress or if I should cut my losses and just get rid of the wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Well, I don't see why you would need a new SB if it's just valves. I would still do a leakdown before tearing that thing down. But that's just me. Were you consuming lots of oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbc84 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Almost 0 oil consumption. I do have leaky valve covers and had leaky oil filter mount. but nothing noticeable oil loss between oil changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Lets not high jack this thread. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I did stop by both shops today. Talked with Joe and Rich. The block was it Eastwoods when I got there at 4:20 PM. Mark's brother Mike was telling me they had another ej25 last week with the same issue, he even said it's pretty common in there circles. Mark came over and said, that was Rich on the phone, he said "I" just stopped by and mentioned ARP studs, Mark thought that was a good idea. See if you can get some quickly. Other stuff is in the PM I sent you. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 No, the Cobb tune fix's the OEM timing flaw. That damage started to happen long time ago. I don't know. I think I went COBB Stage 1 back in 2006-7. Mid 2012 is when the CEL came on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Sorry for not updating in a while. Max Capacity is talking about the issue that came up today. Fresh back from the machine shop, the heads were getting torqued back on the block with new OEM head bolts. one of the bolts on passenger side would not torque to spec. it was only getting to ~60 ft/lbs or so. After trying different bolts and calling the machine shop, it was determined that the threads in the block were stripped or otherwise compromised. They had to pull the heads back off, take the block out and sent it to the machine shop to drill out the threads and put an insert in that has the same threads. Once this is complete the heads will go back on and the engine bolted back in. I am ordering ARP studs this time instead of the OEM bolts as suggested by Max C. and the machine shop. With the block out, a new clutch also makes sense but I dont want to blow the budget more than it is. I was having no issues with the clutch prior...but I will be increasing my torque soon with parts and tune... hmmm.. A lightweight flywheel is tempting as well. Suggestions? BTW: It is worth mentioning that underdog has been a big help with getting parts to me quickly and at a great price. Reach out to him if you need anything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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