x__CRASH__x Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I've been doing some maintenance and following it my cruise control is now oscillating. Meaning there are subtle surges of acceleration that sort of pulsate the car along. Just enough to be annoying. I don't know how the cruise control is controlled, so I'll list the maintenance that has been done recently: Transmission fluid drained and filled Transmission fluid filter changed (Battery removed) Spark plugs changed Right axle boot changed (Axle removed) Left axel and hub replaced Before all that it worked fine and was smooth. So is there any mechanical control in the engine that may have been bumped or broken? Or did the disconnection of the battery cause the tune to get lost and the computer to go 'wonky'? The car doesn't seem to be running any different, and this issue is only felt while under cruise control. Any help/information would be greatly appreciated! I commute 80 miles a day and a lot of that is on the freeway under cruise control. So having it oscillate like this may drive me insane!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travrach Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Most likely due to the left bearing/hub that was installed. Read this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x__CRASH__x Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Interesting. The reason I had to replace the bearing and axle is because they were seized to each other, and the knuckle was really rusty. That whole area was rusty. I had to use a lot of torch heat to get the axle out and then the hub out and the busted lower ball joint out of the knuckle. I'm guessing the "fix" is to pull all that apart again and clean the hell out of the knuckle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travrach Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 ^ Some have had good results with that, others no. If it was really that rusty then maybe so, if you had to tap the bearing in at all that's not good, and I 'd recommend taking it apart and re-cleaning. What brand of bearing was installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x__CRASH__x Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 I put in a MOOG bearing. I didn't tap it, per say. I used the bolts to pull it in, but it wasn't the smoothest. I am planning on putting it on a rack Saturday and cleaning it up. I really hope that works because I'm going insane on my commute. To clean up the knuckle, sand paper? Brake cleaner? Anything else? Also, maybe I should pull the ABS sensor out again to clean it? Anything else I should pay attention to with it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travrach Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Yea if you had to use the bolts to pull it in I doubt its straight. Sure pull the sensor and clean the mating surface. To clean the knuckle I'd go with something heavier then sandpaper, can you get a wire wheel on a drill or something, you really want no imperfections and the bearing should just set in and be ready to tighten it down. Hope it goes well, please post results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x__CRASH__x Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 Thanks for the tips. I'll post back, hopefully with positive results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 sub'd. first i'm reading about cc being tied to wheel bearings. i've got cc issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x__CRASH__x Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 I may have been incorrect in using the bolts to pull in the hub. Regardless, I tapped the hub out and it came out pretty easy. I also took out the ABD sensor again and cleaned it. I took a wire brush and cleaned out the seat as best I could. But there is still corrosion in there. However, the hub slipped back in fine. I cleaned it all out with parts cleaner than made sure to tighten down the bolts evenly in a cross pattern. Unfortunately it all didn't help. I've still got the same oscillating issue with the cruise control. Any other ideas that may be causing this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I may have been incorrect in using the bolts to pull in the hub. Regardless, I tapped the hub out and it came out pretty easy. I also took out the ABD sensor again and cleaned it. I took a wire brush and cleaned out the seat as best I could. But there is still corrosion in there. However, the hub slipped back in fine. I cleaned it all out with parts cleaner than made sure to tighten down the bolts evenly in a cross pattern. Unfortunately it all didn't help. I've still got the same oscillating issue with the cruise control. Any other ideas that may be causing this issue? I almost guarantee that the aftermarket hub unit is the problem. I just went thru the same process you did and the solution was that I installed OEM hub units. I don't know if the magnetic rings are weaker or a different pulse count on the aftermarket units, but this a well documented problem. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/success-non-oem-wheel-hub-bearing-units-221269.html I connected my Cobb unit and it showed the throttle plate was fluctuating about 3 %, not enough to vary the speed but you could feel it in the seat. The previously mentioned post shows that some success has been had using Detroit Axle hub units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x__CRASH__x Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Yeah, looks that way. I'll have to get the OEM unit then return the MOOG to the parts store. Hopefully they take it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 Autozone took back their brand, it has a1 year warranty. If the item doesn't work correctly how could not take it back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 Interesting. The reason I had to replace the bearing and axle is because they were seized to each other, and the knuckle was really rusty. That whole area was rusty. I had to use a lot of torch heat to get the axle out and then the hub out and the busted lower ball joint out of the knuckle. I'm guessing the "fix" is to pull all that apart again and clean the hell out of the knuckle? You may have damaged your wheel speed sensor as well. Usually cleaning the hell out of the knuckle to bearing surface is an exceptionally good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 If you didn't clean the hub before putting the bearing in, you will have issues. Most just bite the bullet and buy the OEM Subaru front wheel bearing. The rear has no real issue tied to brand names. Moog has stood behind their product before on this issue, so I would venture to say the error is in your installation. The new hub should slide right in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 Cleaning the mounting surfaces is worth a try, it made no difference for me. The plus is that it comes apart easier the 2nd and 3rd times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KoolAidMan26 Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 I had this happen in september. I got a duralast and the cruise would pulse then shut off and the cruise would flash. Returned the duralast and bought the Timken. Problem was solved. Only the cheaper bearings can be used on the rear, but this was the first and last time I don't get a timken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 talking about your battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x__CRASH__x Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 Just got off the phone with the dealership. They want $300 for the OEM hub. But I can get an OEM for a parts dealership for just under $200. So I'm going to go that route on the 1st. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 Was that 300 for the parts and labor or just the hub ? If parts and labor, that's not that bad. I think the hub from Fredbeans is like $140. Check Heuberger too, both are Vendors here, click on the link up top. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
x__CRASH__x Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 It was $300 for just the part. I'll check that vendor link. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-short-block-time-215312p14.html read post #547 and 548. Also a few post earlier I posted more links. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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