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Just hit guard rail


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total it? are you mad? take it to a body shop and get them to bang that frame back where it should be, then do the rest yourself. you already know what needs to be fixed, fenders and the bumper. these will cost 50 - 300 per piece, you need new fog lamps and headlights, just found a set of headlights for 275, fog lamps from 30-75. new aftermarket grille 75, and fixing wrinkled hoods is not difficult, plenty of videos on how to do that. you screwed up, oh well, it happens to us all at least once. who cares if its 10 years old, its stage 2 tuned and its obviously your baby. get out there and fix it! i would have also advised saying to hell with insurance, seeing as the total out of pocket cost wont be more than 2 grand, but with insurance your rates will rocket.
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total it? are you mad? take it to a body shop and get them to bang that frame back where it should be, then do the rest yourself. you already know what needs to be fixed, fenders and the bumper. these will cost 50 - 300 per piece, you need new fog lamps and headlights, just found a set of headlights for 275, fog lamps from 30-75. new aftermarket grille 75, and fixing wrinkled hoods is not difficult, plenty of videos on how to do that. you screwed up, oh well, it happens to us all at least once. who cares if its 10 years old, its stage 2 tuned and its obviously your baby. get out there and fix it! i would have also advised saying to hell with insurance, seeing as the total out of pocket cost wont be more than 2 grand, but with insurance your rates will rocket.

 

Also, remember OP's location... Everything costs more in places like NY and Boston...

 

The cost of the repair would obviously depend on the extent of the damage, but if OP was moving at 50mph during the accident, it might be better to scrap it. Even if the rest of the frame did not bend during impact (unlikely at that speed), fitment issues are going to be a PITA unless you have all the right equipment for bodywork. Plus, with a second project car, I assume that the subie is the primary mode of transportation here.

 

OP, ultimately it comes down to what your body shop friend says about the damage. Take his advance with a grain of salt and go from there.

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  • 1 month later...

$3200 to fix with no paint. New fenders, radiator support, bumper, plus frame bench stuff....

 

Damnit, there goes my engine build money.... eh, could be worse, I could be dead.

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Man, I read your entire thread and some of you should come to Michigan and see what high insurance rates really are. We have No-Fault that has unlimited medical coverage on it and are the good old #1 in the country for the highest automobile insurance rates. We get to pay for good old Detoilet because of the huge car theft over there and everyone is rated in the state because of their asses.

 

I, too, by the way, have full coverage on my 2005 LGT because I simply want the damn thing fixed if it gets crashed. Perhaps, I'm deranged? LOL

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Insurance would have totaled it most likely and I put a lot of wrench time into that car.... every bushing from front to rear is whiteline polyurethane, even whiteline tophats and control arms, pressing out/in the rear subframe bushings for diff was a nightmare, so I dropped the entire subframe to do it. Koni struts/tein springs , hotchkiss swaybars, kartboy endlinks the list goes on, I didn't even get into the sound system or performance mods. I really didn't feel like starting over, i couldn't part with it after dropping all that coin and time.

 

After they told me the damage was all cosmetic and the frame bent way in front of the wheel I decided to keep it and move forward. I was really about to buy another one and swap parts over, but I don't have that kind of time.

 

But a part of me does wish I had full coverage lol :lol: My rates at the moment are obnoxiously high, I tend to speed and hit stuff :rolleyes:

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I was on 287 heading towards tappan zee bridge, in 3rd lane going about 50-60 mph. The rain was really coming down, really bad visibility. Rear passenger side kicked out into middle lane, I spun banged the center divider with driver side rotated banged it with passenger side and ended up on the other side of highway. Tbh I could have died very easily, thank god I was not hit by a car behind me!

 

 

That's weird. Is your tread depth the same front and rear?

EDIT: reason I asked is, I just read a report from Michelin indicating best tires go on rear. "On a rainy day (or if a sprinkler system is irrigating the pavement), even a small puddle could cause your car to spin out if you have worn tires on the back and new tires on the front." They say half worn; to me that is about 6/32 tread depth on the worn tires, if 10/32 is new and 2/32 fully worn. The blogger said he has experienced it at 2/32 difference. I realize most Subaru owners only ride tires of same tread depth, but this is useful knowledge in the real world. I will set up a separate post on this.

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If it was me I'd strip the front end down to the rad support then have a bodyshop pull the body straight again. Then source the bolt-on parts from a junkyard - bumper bar, bumper cover, fenders, hood. OBP matches very well.

 

Example - I paid 250 for a junkyard door in OBP and bolted it on in an hour. Bodyshop quote 900 to source a door and paint it. Fenders were $100 each.

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That's weird. Is your tread depth the same front and rear?

EDIT: reason I asked is, I just read a report from Michelin indicating best tires go on rear. "On a rainy day (or if a sprinkler system is irrigating the pavement), even a small puddle could cause your car to spin out if you have worn tires on the back and new tires on the front." They say half worn; to me that is about 6/32 tread depth on the worn tires, if 10/32 is new and 2/32 fully worn. The blogger said he has experienced it at 2/32 difference. I realize most Subaru owners only ride tires of same tread depth, but this is useful knowledge in the real world. I will set up a separate post on this.

 

 

I have summer tires sumitomo htr z 3's, the thread was low! Plus my suspension is very stiff so that probably doesn't help either.

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If it was me I'd strip the front end down to the rad support then have a bodyshop pull the body straight again. Then source the bolt-on parts from a junkyard - bumper bar, bumper cover, fenders, hood. OBP matches very well.

 

Example - I paid 250 for a junkyard door in OBP and bolted it on in an hour. Bodyshop quote 900 to source a door and paint it. Fenders were $100 each.

 

 

Thats what I was planning at first, but for 3200 its not so bad. Considering most of that cost is the frame bench hours which is just plain expensive. I'd say most of the cost is labor. Plus the shop I brought it to does very good frame work which is my most important concern.

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Strip it yourself, get the subframe straightened, reassemble it all yourself (look for correct color used parts but if not...) get it painted.

 

If most of the cost of your estimate is labor, then take most of that out of it by doing everything except the frame straightening and painting yourself. I would bet that you can bring it down by half that way.

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If it was me I'd strip the front end down to the rad support then have a bodyshop pull the body straight again. Then source the bolt-on parts from a junkyard - bumper bar, bumper cover, fenders, hood. OBP matches very well.

 

Example - I paid 250 for a junkyard door in OBP and bolted it on in an hour. Bodyshop quote 900 to source a door and paint it. Fenders were $100 each.

 

Sorry...LOL. I was really tired when I posted that COMPLETE REDUNDANT REITERATION OF WHAT YOU SAID and then added to it this morning WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT THE REST OF THE THREAD...:ohhh:

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Sorry...LOL. I was really tired when I posted that COMPLETE REDUNDANT REITERATION OF WHAT YOU SAID and then added to it this morning WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT THE REST OF THE THREAD...:ohhh:

 

 

Great minds think alike?

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