Need help with 05 OBXT sleeper build

[OBXTrunner]

Yeah ive done a bunch of research on running lgt exhaust, ultimately would love to pick up a jdm outback bumper but they're hard to come buy and pricey.

[CloudSeed777]

Benjamin M i really admire that build on your XT, i like how clean it is and i really like the stance too. And ive actually got another set of TGV's sitting around so ill probably do the TGV delete on them, im curious to if someone took out the flaps, and the divider, and then still ran the rod, and maybe shaved it down a bit, i wonder if you can still see the power but not have to worry about that CEL you'll typically see, i however also wonder if leaving the rod will effect the air flow much. What are other options to get rid of the CEL? i know a tune can take care of it, just curious if theres other options.

 

I did the TGV deletes. I got rid of my CELs using my AccessPort. It's simple and much better than trying to leave the shaft in the TGV. There's a free program you DL from Cobb called AccessTuner Race. You transfer your tune MAP to your computer and open it in AccessTuner Race and simply uncheck the CEL's you want the MAP to ignore, save it, then flash your car's ROM.

[WRX USA]

Yeah ive done a bunch of research on running lgt exhaust, ultimately would love to pick up a jdm outback bumper but they're hard to come buy and pricey.

 

You're half right, https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/14106

 

Easy to come by, just expensive.

[OBXTrunner]

Yeah not completely set on spending $900 on a jdm bumper, but never saw that site so thanks And okay very good to know, i have to get an access port anyways, im not really a computer guy but if i have it tuned by a local shop when i get my main tune can they clear the cel? Also what do you do with the rest of the tgv set up (Everything that hooks up to the actual TGV body)?

[OBXTrunner]

Also was there a noticeable difference? Im assuming with the bigger Turbo and injectors it should make a pretty big difference over just doing a TGV delete on a stock or stage 1

[Rhitter]

No reason to do them on stock through mild stage 3 (VF52) unless they break.

[OBXTrunner]

Well isnt more flow better? I mean i understand that the purpose of the TGV is for emissions and smoother idle on cold start, but if im running a 20g turbo im thinking that it would improve HP numbers seeing ive read theres a 10-15 hp boost doing the TGV delete (havnt seen dyno proof though)

[Benjamin M]

And as far as exhaust, i do want some sound... which im not really set on what to run, i do alot of highway driving and want something that wont be TOO loud at a lower rpm like on the highway, but still would like good flow.

 

 

Nameless definitely has some sound and does drone on the highway, but it doesn't bother me. Also on the highway I'm at 3k-3.5k rpms.

 

I got the nameless because it was specifically designed for the OBXT. Adding in a resonator would probably help quite a bit.

 

I've set off car alarms driving down residential streets.

 

Edit: I changed out my catback all at once. It may be more beneficial to change out a component at a time to try and get the note/loudness just where you want.

 

Unfortunately I let some homeless guy on a bike take my oem exhaust when I knocked it off to put on the nameless pieces, so I couldn't go back and experiment.

 

It was rusted to shit, cursed many a time getting it off. I didn't bother separating it, mid pipe to cans all off at once lol. Was pretty funny watching the guy take it away in his bike.

 

 

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[Benjamin M]

Any dyno graphs with of your set-up?

 

 

Somewhere I have one. Not handy with me - offshore working currently. I should have taken a picture with my phone.

 

 

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[Benjamin M]

My tuner removed the tgv codes

[OBXTrunner]

Yeah great info, thank you very much man. I actually really like the sound of the nameless axleback system, and thats the one im leaning towards honestly

[OBXTrunner]

Is an V3 cobb access port practical for this build? Can tuning shops install custom maps to a AP, say if i wanted a custom high power map and a more conservative every day map? Will i be able to switch between the two with an AP?

[Rhitter]

Yes.

 

3 main ways of tuning car

- EcuTek

-Cobb Accessport

- OpenSource

 

Each has benefits and drawbacks, I went opensource.

[magnusonsubie]

Yes a tuner can write maps for an accessport but I would just go with having 1 map rather then constantly switching between maps. If you have a good tune you can retain decent mileage when you drive reasonably but then when you drive hard you will get the power you want but mileage will suffer

[Max Capacity]

You should contact my Tuner, Mike Kinsman, www.tuningalliance.com in Vernon CT.

Also read my "click here" link for ideas about the small items to replace.

 

Where in CT are you ?

[Nightmaresmk]

keep it simple

ej257 with cosworth pistons

avo FMIC, inlet

ks intake

ID1000's with radium fuel rails.

killer b header oil pan and pickup spoolinator

grimmspeed lwcp

southbend stage 2 daily clutch.

GTX2867R

Decent tuner

350whp with ridiculous spool and torque to move mountains.

[Nightmaresmk]

the wrx crowd run higher numbers and daily than we lgt crowd. we are just more cautious.

[boxkita]

So 350whp is alot. If you drive it like the GTO, you're going to need a 6MT sooner than later. With the turbo you have, TQ will spike and then drop off which will be far outside your normal cruising rpm (unless 5k is normal). If you are looking for the "feeling" of 350 all the time, you should be looking at the TQ number when it comes in and how long its available. Waiting until 7500rpm to get 350hp gives you a dog.

 

FMIC is going to add lag. Big turbo will add lag. ID1000 injectors is going to have an effect on your mpg.

 

With a budget of 5k, your parts list has already priced you out of the market.

 

WRX dd's tend to be that for short periods of time, then they need work. The better builds cost lots of money, and run longer. Unless you are a stellar builder with access to a good machine shop, shortcuts are going to leave you stranded.

 

My link has a 335 WTQ build. It wasn't cheap, however, it was rock solid for 30k miles until a leaking OEM radiator damaged the HG. Be sure to upgrade the supporting systems, too.

[OBXTrunner]

Ive been leaning to ECS tuning in windsor locks, its closer to me up here in Torrington.

Im not completely set on the 20G as i understand its going to cause more lag, just i found a brand new Tomioka 20g for fairly cheep, but ive been considering the 18g. Ive also been considering DW 850cc injectors to improve the fuel mpg over the 1000cc. Im not one to take shortcuts, the reason i want to build a my own short block is because i have a spare ej255 short block all stripped down ready for the machine shop (getting hot tanked and bored .5mm over so i can run 100mm forged mahle 4032's and also new crank, ACL bearings, and manley H beam rods) and my budget isnt 5k thats just what im thinking towards the engine alone, not counting exhaust, intake, or intercooler.

[boxkita]

Tossing around turbo numbers is like deciding which nail to use to attach two 2x4's. As long as the nail goes thru, it will work. If you want the 2x4's to support a house, then you use a specific nail & nailing pattern...always. Same goes for turbo choice. Depending on your goals, a particular turbo will become the obvious choice.

 

Rather than starting with "I found a cheap price", start with what you want out of your build. A 350HP usable (2500-5000) is going to be expensive. 350HP peak could be really cheap. 350HP in an AWD car with great gas mileage...maybe you should be adjusting your HP goal downward?

 

Start with what you plan to use your car for - show, shine, go, drag, race, on a flatbed, etc. Then work towards components that give you that. Doing engine first, then figuring out all the rest is going to leave you with a "flatbed WRX".

 

The most successful builds started with a set of goals and a spreadsheet. The lesser ones started out like yours (reality sucks) - no plan, random components, indifferent approach. A successful build (well thought out and diligent build) will run in the 10-20k range depending on the level of components and tuning. A "random" build can be had for a few grand. Successful builds fail because bad luck, running out of money, or after being built over driving. Random builds fail for random reasons plus bad luck, running out of money, or driving them. The real difference is how hard it is to track down the issues. A random conglomeration of parts is nearly impossible to sort out. A planned build follows plan, which means finding issues is pretty easy.

 

I had a well-planned build, then saddled the builder with a CL block with bad machining. The money I spent rebuilding the block was to have paid for the upgraded radiator. That I'm now paying for plus other work. The money I "saved" on the block doesn't look like savings now.

 

100mm pistons? why? If going with ECS tuning, have you talked to them about your build & goals? Are they onboard with your plan? Have they made any suggestions about your choices meeting your goals?

[OBXTrunner]

Well thats why my title for this post says "need help..." im no expert and im far from being one, im on here to get educated and gain some knowledge from your guys experience, hence why i havnt started buying parts willy nilly yet, 350hp is a goal not one that will be achieved easily i know. And the reason i choose to go slightly over sized is because i could probably just hone it as most the cross-hatching is gone but as i understand the tolerances are pretty important, and ive read something positive about a plus side of building from a 100k short-block because its been through so many heat cycles, etc. Plus i have it sitting in my basement... why buy another? I understand this isnt going to be a quick or easy or cheep build, just trying to get educated instead of jumping in and tossing a bunch of parts together and hoping for the best. I have a parts list together and realize i need to make adjustments to reach my goal.

[magnusonsubie]

Bow down to the man that listens to people and accepts their advice on an Internet forum!! Props to you for not just asking for help and then not listening at all!

 

OT I have started to plan out my eventual build after I graduate school and in just fueling, intercooler, oil pan/pickup, radiator and some other things I'm sure I'm forgetting right now I'm up to $3500 in just that alone. I'm really looking forward to how this all comes together.

[rapture]

So welcome first off

Listen to boxkita

You dont have to convert to 1000s , imo 850s will be enough

Do tgv deletes , cai,bigger turbo inlet,bnr20g,get rid of all cats,

Equal length headers, ltwt crank pully, ecbs,def fmic(unless gs,pw,sparco,)

Id just throw in better pistons, ringlands ,maybe upgrade the bearings, upgrade timing belt kit

Id say just hone that sb real nice no need to go stoker kit style,def upgrade the fuel pump

Maybe an aos system, alum. Rad, ap not needed , oh and add a 1 infront of your budget lol

I hope you have access to a lift, tools, etc. tho your located in a great area for what your trying to do find a good tuner... Good luck and godspeed

[rapture]

And thats not even suspension/ mount upgrades

And yeah start saving for the 6 spd swap

And id say get a cm fx350

[boxkita]

100mm is a bit much as you're getting close to the outer limits of structural integrity. Unlike an iron block (your GTO), aluminum blocks don't need seasoning. A new SB (heuberger @ ~1800) is a better bet.

 

If you have never built a subaru engine, I'd get someone who has and is willing to help you. You can do a "Subaru Mike" build and be ok...for awhile. I'm not talking clean room, however, going for 350 on your first build might be a bit much.

 

I run upgraded OEM injectors. I'm not saying its the best, just you don't need an injector that's running @ 10% duty cycle (ID1000). Again fit the injectors to the build.

 

FMIC/TMIC? How sleeper do you want? Unless really well planned out and matched turbo to FMIC, you'll have lag. At the stoplight or cruising on the freeway (where sleeper really matters), turbo lag makes you look like a chump. FMIC is a giveaway every time unless you do some concealment and replace the hood with a non-scoop version. A TMIC with a stock hood doesn't look like an STI, which is all ppl really look for. Also, a decent sized TMIC (pw, gm, avo) is the size of small FMIC with less piping. Wrapping them in a thermal tape cuts down on heat transfer keeping them cooler. My PW would heatsoak when sitting in line during summer Autox, however after 1st gate, it didn't matter, and I'd finish with a cold TMIC.

 

KillerB Holy Headers with UP and swaintech coating is about the best you're going to find.

 

The lightweight crank pulley needs to be paired a normal weight clutch, otherwise you get chatter. Unless that doesn't bother you. Check out covertrussian's thread on LWCP.

 

AOS? Mostly bling unless you are tracking car.

 

CAI? Mostly bling unless making much more power.

 

DP needs a cat, unless you'll never have any passengers and your nose is non-functional. A high-flow catted DP is more than enough with a 3" exhaust (nameless, etc).

 

Get a high-flow radiator (Koyo or Mishimoto) and good hoses. Infamous has a hose deal going on. Look in GB section.

 

Suspension. Start looking for a LGT suspension take off. You'll need alot of those parts, unless you want to stay lifted. Whiteline & Cusco are your best bets on parts. If you lower, then get the WL bumpsteer kit.

 

Brakes. Stock calipers, Hawk HPS pads, Goodridge lines, RBF600 fluid, Centric Premium blanks. Anything else is bling unless you are going racing. Even then, mostly bling.

 

Wheels/Tires. The sky is the limit. Check out XenonK's sticky in tire section. Violating those suggestions will lead you to replacing wheel bearings faster. 17x8 or 18x8 is a good size. 225 is a good width.

 

Transmission. The 5mt will hold up, assuming you don't jam your gears. The 6mt is better if you are going higher horsepower, however, it does carry a weight penalty and it costs more.

 

Lights. The LGT lights universally suck. Look for upgrades. Especially if you do much night driving.

 

Undercar protection. The hard skid plate pays off, especially if you live on rough roads or potholes.

 

Interior - Gauges. Regardless what you read, if everything is running well, the gauges are rather useless. Get a logger and review later when you are not driving. By the time the gauges give you a warning, you need a tow truck any way.

Interior - Double-Din upgrade. I never did it, as no justification. One of the few things I wish I had done. There are several threads on this.