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Just another misfire/rough idle thread...


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So the numbers suggest that I may have a vacuum leak.

I smoke tested the engine and found a leak from under the intake manifold, but I haven't identified exactly where it's coming from. Thousands of dollars are on the line (if #inansb) so taking off the manifold is no doubt worth the trouble.

 

I really appreciate your help.

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Then, perharps check valve clearances now. tools and parts needed:

feeler gauge

10mm socket/wrench

22mm socket to turn the crankshaft

appropriate ratchets

new valve covers gaskets+ spark plug hole gaskets

permatex ultra grey sealant

 

That's about it I think.

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Today's news:

"This past weekend a tentative agreement was reached between the labor union (me) and the family's emotional management (wife) regarding the amount of overtime (car stuff) that the labor union is currently being limited to. Details of the tentative agreement have not yet been released, but an unnamed source has been quoted as saying 'I think she's gonna to let me get about 10 hours a week, but I bet she'll totally throw it out the window whenever she wants her vehicle worked on.'"

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Finally some good news!

 

I just checked the valve clearances on cylinders #2 & #4 and found that everything is within spec except for my cyl #2 exhaust valves. The clearance between the cam lobes and the buckets only measures .008" (.0085" won't go). This seems to be pretty consistent with everybody ragging on the stock tune for burning exhaust valves, so I'm gonna adjust my out-of-spec valves and pray for the best.

 

Special thanks to xt2005bonbon for convincing me to check my valves.

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Found your other post in heiche thread. Glad you found the issue! I now hope your exhaust valves are still OK. I am somewhat in the same boat. As you'll see in my thread, this job can be done in the engine bay if you don't mind some lower back muscle work out :).

Technically, if you do the job yourself it will only cost you the price of a few buckets, new valve cover gaskets, probably timing belt components, and a couple cam bolts and cam oil seals. So it shouldn't be too pricey really. This is assuming of course that the valves are still in good shape.

Good luck my man.

 

Take this opportunity to check (and probably disgard) the banjo bolt filter located behind the driver side timing belt cover.

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Yesterday I read all of your valve adjustment thread and I'm definitely keep the engine in the car. I've never completely pulled an engine and I certainly don't want to do it just for this.

 

I'm due for a timing belt change this summer anyways so that cost doesn't really bother me. Gaskets, seals, bolts... mere drops in the bucket that I would have spent (knock on wood) on a new/built shortblock. I think I'm going to suck it up and buy the company 23 intake/exhaust sprocket tool here. I hate spending $50 on a tool I only plan to use once, but the PITA you went through sounds like $50 may be worth it this time.

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I've seen that tool. Although that tool will only help you hold the sprocket in place. The problem is that the bolt metal is soft and will most likely chew itself up when you'll try to loosen it. That's why I used the bolt extractor method. Only 22 bucks at HF, and you use your old timing belt to hold the sprocket in place. Either way, good luck.

 

Also, if I am not missing anything, this tool will only help you hold the exhaust cam sprocket. You would still need to find a way to hold the intake cam sprocket in place to loosen its bolt.

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The threads are ruined on one of my turbo>DP studs, so I guess I should go with the extract-o method for my cam sprocket bolt since I need to buy an extractor kit for the turbo stud anyways. I can't imagine how I'll get my drill all the way down into the engine bay to make a hole for the extractor. Maybe I'll get lucky and my bolt wont smush.

 

I can be convinced otherwise, but shouldn't a firm hold on the sprocket help prevent screwing up the bolt? In the past when I've jacked up bolts it was from when the socket kept slipping off the bolt head, thus rounding off the corners.

 

FYI that particular Company 23 tool is different on each side, so one side for the intake and the other side for the exhaust. They also make tools that can only do the intake or exhaust sprockets. Why would anyone buy an intake OR exhaust tool instead of an intake AND exhaust tool? :iam:

Edited by StkmltS
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The threads are ruined on one of my turbo>DP studs, so I guess I should go with the extract-o method for my cam sprocket bolt since I need to buy an extractor kit for the turbo stud anyways. I can't imagine how I'll get my drill all the way down into the engine bay to make a hole for the extractor. Maybe I'll get lucky and my bolt wont smush.

 

I did not use any drill. You just need to tap the bolt extractor into place. Before doing so, I simply grinded the head of the cam bolt so I can fit the 11/16 bolt extractor. Once in place, i used my breaker bar, with the timing belt method holding the cam sprocket. I went very slowly (like a doctor performing a surgery :cool:) and it came off.

 

I can be convinced otherwise, but shouldn't a firm hold on the sprocket help prevent screwing up the bolt? In the past when I've jacked up bolts it was from when the socket kept slipping off the bolt head, thus rounding off the corners.

 

My bolt screwed itself up simply because of the torque I was putting on it. I was using a breaker bar with the 10mm allen socket. I was going very slowly making sure timing belt was not slipping; I also made sure the allen socket was perfectly centered in the cam bolt. Even with all these precautions, the inside of the bolt started to get rounded as I was pushing (hard) on the breaker bar.

 

FYI that particular Company 23 tool is different on each side, so one side for the intake and the other side for the exhaust. They also make tools that can only do the intake or exhaust sprockets. Why would anyone buy an intake OR exhaust tool instead of an intake AND exhaust tool? :iam:

 

They're here to make money I guess :).

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This weekend I managed to get enough time to adjust my two cyl #2 exhaust valves and put everything back together.

Clearance between the buckets and cam lobes for the two cyl #2 exhaust valves measured about .008" instead of the required .0138", so I ground the buckets down to my new desired thickness per the oh-so-affordable Heiche method found here.

 

Good news: the engine runs.

Bad news: the #2 cylinder is still misfiring.

???: It only seems to be misfiring (or detecting a misfire) at a low RPM.

 

Installed new valve cover/spark plug gaskets, new idler pulley, new accessory belts, reused cam sprocket bolts (no problems), reused original TB due to budget constraints :icon_sad:

Pressure washed valve cover, cleaned TB covers.

 

The log is a few minutes of driving around after letting the engine warm up. The file was a little too large to upload so I cut the data in half and made it into two files.

The LV snapshot is after the drive.

1604695582_LearningView_SS_7-5-201595718PM.jpg.4f366b4874738bc2634a88e00f9af0cd.jpg

romraiderlog_20150705_214322_1.csv

romraiderlog_20150705_214322_2.csv

Edited by StkmltS
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Very sorry to hear that. When does it detect a misfire? Cold idle or warm idle? Or any idle conditions?

 

When you rechecked the clearance (after putting the new buckets), you did with the timing belt on right?

The only thought I have at this point is redo a compression/leakdown test. And maybe use a borescope to check whether a valve is burned or cracked.

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Uh... I sorta forgot to recheck the clearance until everything was already back together :spin:

The lower middle valve cover bolt broke off in the head, so when I deal with that problem (asap) I'll check the new clearances. I know I should have taken the extra time and removed the cover and checked the clearances, but I was really frustrated about my broken bolt so I said screw it for now.

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Sorry to hear this as well, that a misfire still exists. At least on a positive note, you did have a clearance issue that you took care of. But why the misfire? :confused:
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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Yeah, clearance should be checked right after the timing belt is put back on.

 

Bump to my question though regarding when it misfires (cold vs. warm idle).

Cold, hot, and everything in between.

The misfire and low idle both show zero improvement after any amount of driving. After this past stretch of sitting in my garage the misfire was [still] present immediately after starting the engine. The valve adjustment does seem to have helped slightly... but most likely it's just me really really really really wanting to see an improvement.

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That sucks man...

 

At this point, I'd recheck valve clearance, redo leakdown/compression test, and maybe borescope...

 

But first, I'd say take a break from working on this car...

 

 

Edit: although, you could always recheck the simple things first (spark plug, coil pack, injectors). You never know..

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So how's the car OP?

No better than before.

A couple weeks ago I thought my cam position sensor was leaking, but it turns out that it's actually my OCV. I took it out (for fun) when i swapped cam sensors so the OCV leak isn't too frightening. I was gonna mess with it at lunch but the rain convinced me otherwise.

 

My LV from last night, about 90 miles post-bucket adjustment.

1337043528_LearningView_SS_7-7-2015102342PM.jpg.3d8458e456c13639f9e5cf35032ebc49.jpg

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