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Just another misfire/rough idle thread...


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Somehow it *appears* that your ECU got reset between 3 and 4. I mean look at your learned values: they are all almost zeros. How can they become zeros like that? That is very strange. You sure it did not get reset between 3 and 4?

 

Also, when the ECU gets reset, does your IAM become 0.5 and then slowly goes to 1.0? I believe this is how the stock ECU are set up. But your tuner can change that (mine did).

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I guess the ECU could have been reset somehow, but how often do ECU's spontaneous reset themselves? I didn't tell it to reset and the battery didn't get disconnected. My wife can't drive a manual so I know she didn't do anything.

 

When my ECU resets the IAM does go to .5, but I've never seen it at anywhere between .5 or 1.0. After a reset it usually stays at .5 for about ten to twenty minutes of driving and then it goes right to 1.0.

 

Last night my wife said "You aren't going to like this, but maybe you should think about selling the wagon".... ahhhhh!

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Sometimes these events happen. Maybe there was a quick burst of knock for some reason and the ECU dropped the IAM. What's important is that it recovers back to 1.000 fairly quickly, like you've observed in the past. If it lingers there and struggles to get back to 1.000 for several drives, that might be more of an issue.

 

Sometimes doing an ECU reset will actually get it to climb back to 1.000 quicker - but sometimes not if there's underlying knock.

 

One time I was driving down the highway and an alert went off because my IAM had dropped. I immediately started sweating, and pricing a new shortblock in my head... About 1 minute later it was back up to 1.000! Very odd. Again, if it recovers quickly, it's not TOO big of an issue.

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BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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I guess the ECU could have been reset somehow, but how often do ECU's spontaneous reset themselves? I didn't tell it to reset and the battery didn't get disconnected. My wife can't drive a manual so I know she didn't do anything.

 

When my ECU resets the IAM does go to .5, but I've never seen it at anywhere between .5 or 1.0. After a reset it usually stays at .5 for about ten to twenty minutes of driving and then it goes right to 1.0.

 

Last night my wife said "You aren't going to like this, but maybe you should think about selling the wagon".... ahhhhh!

 

My wife went to start the 07 LGT one morning and it would just crank. She took the other car. Looking at 07 I realized the ECU reset itself, first time this had ever happened, and not sense. IAM at .5, lv cleared, very odd.

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^ wow :confused:

 

I had unplugged the o2 and turned on the car to test something, obv got a code, which I never cleared. Thought that might have something to do with it, but I hadn't ever read about having a code resetting the ecu. Don't know what happened. I turned the key to acces for a few sec, then cranked and it started fine

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My leaky OCV has been fixed for a while now, but even with that leaking and smoking for several weeks my oil level hasn't dropped. I'm getting close to my next oil change, which means my oil consumption between OCIs (3k) is still as close to zero as can be measured via the dipstick.

 

For the love of spending money on this car I'm probably going to get an oil analysis done to see if it tells me anything new. I noticed the color of my coolant is a little murky so I may send some of that to get checked too. At this point I'd be pretty excited to find out I need a new head gasket.

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  • 2 weeks later...
In the sadistic "a Subaru owns me" kind of way I'm hoping it comes back with abnormally high aluminum content.

 

Great line. Totally relate :)

BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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It runs the same as usual. The misfire is still present, but it otherwise drives fine as long as the LVs stay where they shouldn't be... should be... whatever.

 

It's been sitting in my garage for about a week now with a halfway completed oil change while I've been waiting for my local dealership to call me back saying I can come pick up my new valve cover bolt. Once that shows up I'll recheck the valve clearances, fix the broken bolt, finish the oil change, and change the TB + goodies.

 

Several weeks ago I replaced all of the 4mm & 6mm OEM vacuum hoses with new silicone ones. I've also replaced the broken grounding strap.

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Measured valve clearances post-VJ:

Cyl#2 intake: .007" (unchanged)

Cyl#4 intake: .007" (unchanged)

Cyl#2 exhaust: .014" (was .008")

Cyl#4 exhaust: .013" (was .012")

 

Broken valve cover bolt is out! What a pain in the butt. I need to clean up the threads a bit, other than that I'm surprised how cleanly it came out considering the funky angle I had to use to get to it.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/24/26ac78cd60ff2cec213da703a27e7f91.jpg

 

Sent from inner space.

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wow, no "red flags" came back in the analysis? no "found half-inch chunks of piston"? In all seriousness, I'm not familiar with the numbers, and there's no acceptable range given for them, so I'm just going by the diagnosis paragraph.
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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wow, no "red flags" came back in the analysis? no "found half-inch chunks of piston"? In all seriousness, I'm not familiar with the numbers, and there's no acceptable range given for them, so I'm just going by the diagnosis paragraph.

Same here, I was hoping for off-the-chart coolant or aluminum content.

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This past weekend at a local Subaru meet I talked to the owner of a highly modified OBX about my misfire. After explaining my symptoms and talking about everything I've already tried, he was certain that my turbo inlet is the problem. He said my #2 cylinder only looks like the problem because it just happens to be the cylinder most affected by the un-metered air entering the inlet somewhere it shouldn't. He's a Subaru ambassador so he's gotta know what he's talking about, right?

 

A problematic inlet seems like it would explain everything:

 

  1. The misfire goes away under boost
  2. Engine temp doesn't change the symptoms
  3. Good compression & leak down results
  4. No change after swapping plugs / coils / injectors / orings / gaskets
  5. The engine doesn't consume oil
  6. Acceptable UOA results (for the newbs: Used Oil Analysis)
  7. Positive LV's in all four ranges

 

I haven't thoroughly inspected my inlet, but with just a quick glance it's obvious that the turbo end of the hose looks pretty ugly. It's visibly deteriorated enough that I wouldn't ever dare take it off and hope to reuse it. A new inlet was already on my #YNANSB shopping list, so...

 

I ordered a new inlet and hopefully I'll find enough time to get it installed this weekend. I didn't buy an OEM inlet because why replace an OEM part with an OEM part? What do I look like? A silly fuddy-duddy person who thinks aftermarket parts are a waste of money? I went with a blue Mishimoto (MMHOSE-SUB-08IH).

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