StkmltS Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 (edited) I finished putting everything back on the car last night and I drove it around for a few minutes after disabling all 12,000 TGV codes. Geesh, I would have thought it'd only be 4 codes (2 motors + 2 sensors). Now that I've seen the crack in the piston I'm a little paranoid to get into boost... or even drive it at all. I have a new sucking noise coming from the MAF/inlet area. It sounds like a vacuum hose is disconnected, but it idles fine (all things considered) and felt good (relatively speaking) on the road. It's pretty loud and it sounds alot like the noise you get from a cold-air intake. I searched, and searched, and searched, and searched... everything appears to be securely connected. The spray-carb-cleaner-everywhere trick didn't find anything either. I'm praying the epoxy+bolts in the TGV assembly aren't leaking. Does deleting the TGVs increase intake noise? Even without stomping on the throttle last night my butt dyno showed a 17 hp increase (12 for the TGVs + 5 more because they're painted red). I can't imagine what it would feel like if I would have CF vinyl-wrapped them instead. Edited December 14, 2015 by StkmltS My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Even without stomping on the throttle last night my butt dyno showed a 17 hp increase (12 for the TGVs + 5 more because they're painted red). I can't imagine what it would feel like if I would have CF vinyl-wrapped them instead. I don't have an answer to your question, but your statement above is hilarious . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 To my knowledge, deleting the TGVs shouldn't increase intake noise. I deleted mine before ever hearing my engine run, so I can't say from personal experience. Can't remember, have you done boost leak tests before? I ask because I've never had luck with the carb-cleaner trick myself. I've even intentionally sprayed it on a pulled vacuum hose that was hissing, and the spray didn't change the idle quality at all! I'm sure it works in other conditions, but seemingly not for me. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 I can safely say that deleting my TGVs made no real impact on my intake noises. The only negative effect it had on the engine was a slightly wandering idle in cold temperatures during warm up. How liberal were you with the epoxy on the bolts? I quite literally drowned mine in JB weld, and then used a dremel with a stone to remove the excess when it cured. Edit: Also, CF wrapped TGVs are good for at least 32.7hp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 I'm sure yours are fine and the plugs won't fall out But for anyone reading this, you can get a nice interference fit by only tapping the threads about 3/4 of the way through, so that the set screws (I used 3/8"-24 x 1/2" allen head set screws) will actually tighten/bottom out as they nearly poke into the tgv barrel (try them, tap more threads, try, etc). Then in addition, apply a good amount of loctite (or jb weld) to the set screws and tighten them in one last time. If the "point" of the set screw slightly pokes into the tgv barrel, then just grind it down until flush. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 How liberal were you with the epoxy on the bolts? I didn't drown the bolts like you said you did, but I put a solid bead around the circumference of the bolt in two places, in addition to all of the way around the bolt right under the head. I'm sure yours are fine and the plugs won't fall out But for anyone reading this, you can get a nice interference fit by only tapping the threads about 3/4 of the way through, so that the set screws (I used 3/8"-24 x 1/2" allen head set screws) will actually tighten/bottom out as they nearly poke into the tgv barrel (try them, tap more threads, try, etc). Then in addition, apply a good amount of loctite (or jb weld) to the set screws and tighten them in one last time. If the "point" of the set screw slightly pokes into the tgv barrel, then just grind it down until flush. I used Gorilla glue, which looking back on it might have been a mistake. I know everybody talks about JB Weld, but using the glue I already had saved me $6. Gorilla glue expands, which means it probably has tiny bubbles in it = not a solid material when it hardens. BUT even if my TGVs aren't absolutely air-tight there's no way they would make this much noise, even with just the bolts and no glue it wouldn't be this loud. Worst case scenario is keep it as-is, and redo the bolts with proper epoxy when #ynansb time rolls around. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 How are your fuel trims? Did they significantly change since the tgv mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 great pic! BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 How are your fuel trims? Did they significantly change since the tgv mod? I haven't had any time to investigate the new sucking noise so I haven't driven the car any more than I did right after putting it back together. I pulled the LVs but apparently didn't save them. It was only a < 1 mile drive so they're pretty useless at this point anyways. I may drive the car tomorrow, if I do I'll post my LVs. I've done some MAF scaling so I expect them to be well within the ± 5% range. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 You may be surprised though. I view my long term fuel trims live and I can tell you that they can change very very quickly. But yeah, less than a mile is not much for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 Good news: Santa came to work today and handed out Christmas bonuses. I'll be out of debt by this time next week! Also, Star Wars tonight. Bad news: My car turned itself off multiple times on the highway this morning. Each instance only lasted about 1/3 of a second (per logged data), and they happened in quick bursts of 3 or 4 'flutters'. Out of nowhere the gauges & dash lights turned off and the engine went totally dead. BtSsm logging wasn't affected, which is great because I have data for the 'off' times. There was an unusual clicking noise coming from the glove box area that sounded like a relay switching on/off, and it definitely corresponded to the motor jolting off and back on. The attached graph is the first time it happened. Nice gentle acceleration rudely interrupted by all kinds of funky crap happening. Look for the drops in Injector DC (%), that's exactly when it happened. The crazy reactions in MAF (g/s) and Throttle plate (%) were probably caused by the sensors turning off/on so quickly. It's going to take me a while to sort through the data and find anything meaningful. I'm hoping it's something simple like a loose connection at the main engine harness. My new LVs reflecting the first 50 miles post-TGV circumcision. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Loose ground somewhere? Loose battery terminals? I would recheck every single wire you touched when you did your TGV delete mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 Loose ground somewhere? Loose battery terminals? I would recheck every single wire you touched when you did your TGV delete mod. ... every wire in the engine bay. Yep, I can't wait. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Just the ones you messed with. I guess you may have touched all of them . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 I fiddled around with most of the connections in the engine bay and the problem hasn't recurred. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 Spoke too soon, it happened again today. Why do I still like this car? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Looking closely at your log graph, it almost looks like MAF starts dropping first. Have you checked/reseated that connection? BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 (edited) My car died in the middle of the street coming out of the parking lot at work, now I'm getting the "ER HC" error and it won't start. I disconnected the battery and the main harness, let it sit for 10 minutes, still nothing. When I plug in my Tactrix (usually always connected to the ECU) the center display flashes "ACC" and the passenger airbag light is on, even without the key in the ignition. When I unplug the Tactrix cable the "ACC" goes away and the airbag light goes off. The Tactrix cable isn't lighting up like normal, so maybe it's a battery issue. My multimeter shows the battery is at 12.1v, but jumping it didn't help. To add injury to insult, it's raining and my shoe has a hole in it so my foot is soaked. My enjoyment of this car is getting low. Edited December 28, 2015 by StkmltS My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 I got the car towed home a couple days ago and it's been sitting in the driveway since then. Before it got towed I noticed a subtle gasoline smell around the car. The tow guy noticed it too and asked if i have a gas lesk. Now there's a puddle of gas on the ground in front of the rear passenger wheel. Great, another thing to keep me from driving the car. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/01/5d9a197c78935fb944cfac927eb63452.jpg My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Related issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Probably an issue going back to when I connected the fuel lines at the IM after deleting the TGVs. The car is parked on a decent incline so I'm guessing it's leaking in the engine bay and dripping it's way down something to the rear of the car. After I figure out how to get it up the rest of my driveway and into my level garage I'll have a good idea of where it's coming from. I probably shouldn't use my torpedo heater in the garage for the time being [emoji91] Sent from inner space. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Probably an issue going back to when I connected the fuel lines at the IM after deleting the TGVs. The car is parked on a decent incline so I'm guessing it's leaking in the engine bay and dripping it's way down something to the rear of the car. After I figure out how to get it up the rest of my driveway and into my level garage I'll have a good idea of where it's coming from. I probably shouldn't use my torpedo heater in the garage for the time being [emoji91] Sent from inner space. that gas leak you have looks exactly like what I ran into when the seal between the pump carrier and fuel tank went bad on me. it is pretty easy to fix. access is through the rear seat. just pull the the clamp ring off, clean off any rust (jacking up the ring), swap the rubber seal and torque the fasteners to spec in the order listed in the FSM. that last step is important if you don't want to redo the job. also, you will want to spray the brake pipe union infront of the tank after this is done. when I had the fuel leak it washed off the coatings on the union. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 one more thing... if you are pulling the pump, make sure your fuel level is below 3/4 tank or you will have fuel everywhere. if you start with a full tank, you will dump about 1.5 gallons of fuel before the flow stops. probably a good idea to do this outside, with fire extinguisher handy and grounded to the chassis with an ESD wrist strap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 that gas leak you have looks exactly like what I ran into when the seal between the pump carrier and fuel tank went bad on me. it is pretty easy to fix. access is through the rear seat. just pull the the clamp ring off, clean off any rust (jacking up the ring), swap the rubber seal and torque the fasteners to spec in the order listed in the FSM. that last step is important if you don't want to redo the job. also, you will want to spray the brake pipe union infront of the tank after this is done. when I had the fuel leak it washed off the coatings on the union. Spray it with what? one more thing... if you are pulling the pump, make sure your fuel level is below 3/4 tank or you will have fuel everywhere. if you start with a full tank, you will dump about 1.5 gallons of fuel before the flow stops. probably a good idea to do this outside, with fire extinguisher handy and grounded to the chassis with an ESD wrist strap... Yeaaaah, the ER HC error happened (car died) about 20 miles after I filled up... so my tank is ~99% full. Do you know if I'll be able to push a hose/siphon all the way down the fuel filler pipe and into the tank? I've heard that some cars have an anti-siphon device in the filler pipe to prevent gas from being... siphoned. Looking at the FSM I should be able to get a hose all the way into the tank. I pushed the car into my garage a couple days ago, and whew! What a terrible idea that was. After only a few minutes the whole garage (attached to my house) stank like something fierce. Obvious safety issues aside, the stink was way too much to handle and the car went back outside. I just ordered a fuel tank gasket from my local stealership. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Tempting find on craigslist... https://dayton.craigslist.org/pts/5355208587.html My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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