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Underdog Motorsports - 2015 STI Steering Rack Swap


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I think I might just take it into a shop and have them straighten the wheel during the alignment... or would it be as simple as me unmounting the steering wheel and reinstalling it to correct the angle?

 

 

 

You can do it either way.

I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here.
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Then yank the wheel out, straighten, and refit. 10-minute job. But if you still need an alignment you might as well wait till that's done.
I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here.
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Is there anything that needs to be considered in the steering wheel when recentering it? Can it be spun around as much as possible? Or is there a spring or wires that need to be considered?

 

I ask because I removed the u joint and it's freely spinning now and I'm about to recenter it.

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

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OK I've never removed a Legacy wheel, but I'm assuming it's like other cars I've messed with. If you remove and unplug the airbag/horn completely, there'll be this little plastic thingy that isn't connected to the wheel but spins with it; the airbag plugs into it. You wanna make sure that plastic thingy doesn't spin around, if possible. It'll probably have a few turns each way in it, just put it in the center before you put the wheel and airbag back in. What I'd do is reconnect the U-joint, then drive the car back and forth till you know the wheels are pointed straight, then remove the airbag, remove the lock nut on the wheel, spin the wheel, see if you can center the plastic spinner, then put the wheel on correctly and drive it a bit to confirm it's straight before you put everything back together. There's no springs or anything to worry about in the column, the only thing you need to mess with is the wheel and the plastic connector.
I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here.
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  • 2 weeks later...
This seems to be the procedure. Requires the Subaru select monitor

 

http://i.imgur.com/RE0A5UC.png

 

I got this done at my local dealer. I told them in installed the 2015 STI rack and wanted the VDC reset. I gave them a print out of this procedure.

 

They charged me $60.

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Did it help with the VDC issues? I can reliably turn VDC on in a few areas near my house. Because of that I typically just drive with it off all the time now.

 

It has not kicked on since I had the dealer do the VDC Reset. I haven't tried that hard to make it kick in. There are a couple of exit ramps where I could get it to kick on. I'll provide update in a few days of driving around.

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It has not kicked on since I had the dealer do the VDC Reset. I haven't tried that hard to make it kick in. There are a couple of exit ramps where I could get it to kick on. I'll provide update in a few days of driving around.

 

This is great news if it actually works. Please do keep us posted.

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This is great news if it actually works. Please do keep us posted.

 

I hit one sharp exit ramp today pretty fast and VDC did NOT kick in. It was slightly uphill. There is another steep ramp I want to hit that is downhill I want to hit which VDC had kicked on before.

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I hit one sharp exit ramp today pretty fast and VDC did NOT kick in. It was slightly uphill. There is another steep ramp I want to hit that is downhill I want to hit which VDC had kicked on before.

 

I have noticed I can get it to kick on sooner if I am covering / lightly pressing the brake. This will cause it to kick in even with VDC off.

 

I haven't had the reset procedure yet though. When I get my airbag replaced I'll do it.

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I hit one sharp exit ramp today pretty fast and VDC did NOT kick in. It was slightly uphill. There is another steep ramp I want to hit that is downhill I want to hit which VDC had kicked on before.

 

Patiently awaiting results. Thanks

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Correct, at which point any old LGT rack would also be an upgrade as well. Not sure about track width and inner tie rod stub thread (where it attaches to rack, not outer tie rod) sizes for your Foz - something you may want to consoder before spending $$$ on a rack.
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Read this thread in it's entirety. Good info here guys!!!

 

Turns out my 2009 FXT rack is 3.2 turns from lock to lock (16.5:1), so the 2013 STi rack that I am considering would be an upgrade at 2.8 turns lock to lock (15:1). And it seems that it would cause fewer issues with the VDC than what people are experiencing going all the way from 16.5:1 to 13:1.

 

What is a fair price for a used 2013 STi rack, including inner tie rods/boots, with less than 5k miles on it? Is $200 low balling?

Edited by GTEASER
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The LGT steering rack is 15:1 also. They might try and get more money because "STI", but really I don't think there is any reason to pay more than whatever a used LGT rack goes for.

 

The STi unit has beefier inner tie rods. ;) 20mm vs 16mm if I read this thread correctly.

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Ok so I got to give it a good test today. Hit an off ramp at a good speed and it had a sharpish turn. VDC kicked on. I'm so disappointed.

 

So am I, I was really hoping for good results.

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It seems like the majority of the VDC issues here is the massive change from a 16.5:1 rack to the 13:1 rack, that's like 26% difference in the angle when the car thinks VDC should come on. Whereas going from 16.5:1 to 15:1, or 15:1 to 13:1 would only be a 10% or 15% difference, respectively, and may not show up as readily during daily spirited driving to the point where VDC erroneously interrupts. Edited by GTEASER
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