SSpeed Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 What's the latest (and best) way to pull the half shafts? Is it still to pull the ball joint and then wiggle it out? I always seam to tear up one of the two seals that way? Has anyone come up with a new way? I need to find the latest transmssion pulling thread too... It's been two years since I've done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 This is probably the most useful for pulling the transmission. He does it from the top, but you can pull it this way too. Just make sure you have enough clearance to get the bell housing out form underneath. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Crap, I've done it that way, but I'll need to pull the half shafts on this one. I'm having an unknown problem and want more space in there. It's hard to get to the flywheel bolts with just the little space like that and if I have to change that snout sleeve it's almost impossible with so little clearance. I guess I pull the ball joints and then pull the half shafts out. They are always so corroded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Crap, I've done it that way, but I'll need to pull the half shafts on this one. I'm having an unknown problem and want more space in there. It's hard to get to the flywheel bolts with just the little space like that and if I have to change that snout sleeve it's almost impossible with so little clearance. I guess I pull the ball joints and then pull the half shafts out. They are always so corroded. I think there is a way but taking out one or both of the strut bolts and using that as a fulcrum to pop it out. I'm sure if you search around you could find an effective solution. If I get I chance I'll post too. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 You can just remove the LCA and leave the BJ in the knuckle. You could even leave the LCA hanging from the BJ but getting the LCA off the tapered end of the BJ is pretty straight-forward. Either way you will have just enough clearance to get the axles out if you crank the steering to one side and then the other. Disconnect the outer tie rods from the knuckle too if you don't want to have to get out from under the car. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 You can just remove the LCA and leave the BJ in the knuckle. You could even leave the LCA hanging from the BJ but getting the LCA off the tapered end of the BJ is pretty straight-forward. Either way you will have just enough clearance to get the axles out if you crank the steering to one side and then the other. Disconnect the outer tie rods from the knuckle too if you don't want to have to get out from under the car. You can always count on someone who knows what they're doing to chime in Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Thanks all, so Underdog, I'll give that a try. I have a ball joint puller if it comes down to it, but I usually end up tearing at least one ball joint boot. So you are saying just remove the LCA? Interesting, I'll try it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 you can also take off the brakes and wheel hub/bearing and speed sensor wire and then pull the axle out through the hole in the knuckle. this lets you not take apart the ball joint or deal with the LCAs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 That's a good thought too. Not hard to do and would probably give me the best position to not mess up the seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 You should be able to get the LCA off the BJ by giving the LCA a few smacks with a mini-sledge on either side of the BJ (perpendicular to the BJ, not axial). I use OTC 7314A to avoid hammering (especially on aluminum arms). Never ripped a boot with these methods. WT's method also sounds good but IMO there is a lot more risk with brake and wheel bearing hardware, and the small speed sensor bolt, than removing the LCA hardware. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Yeah, use my method if your ball joints are stubborn and you dont have the tools to break it loose. but my method does work great, especially in the rear if you have lower arm bars installed ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 I just remember the first time I did the clutch... 3-4 hours to get the downpipe, driveshaft and all that stuff out and ready for the trans to come loose, and then an entire day trying to get just one ball joint loose. Man I felt stupid. This is clutch #4, ouch.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Remove the cotter pin form the LBJ, all of the cotter pin. put nut back on stud. Hit LCA with a 5lb hammer a few times. Check to see if it's popped free. It install the BJ turn the steering wheel to the right a bit to aid in installing the left BJ back in the LCA turn to the left to install the right BJ back in the LCA. I also had to slide my turbo to the right to get the tranny past it. I also bolt my turbo to the up pipe. I learned the benefit of this when it came time to install my IPR tmic. I stated the 3 bolts in the up pipe at the hot side inlet. stuck the IPR inthe TB hose, laid the tmic so it was close to the turbo flange. Tightened the TB hose. I tilted the tmic, started the 2 flange bolts, started the support bracket bolts. Tightened the 2 flange bolts, then support bracket bolts, then the 3 bolts at the hot side to up pipe. Easiest the tmic has ever gone on. See my thread below, "Lost 5th gear" 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Man, I don't know why I'm so terrible with the ball joints. I tried the hammer to the side method, etc and they would still not budge. I finally put a ball joint puller on them and cranked it down until the puller's threaded rod mushroomed. All of a sudden the ball joint let loose with a bang so loud my ears are still ringing. Anyway, the clutch is out. One of the springs on the pressure plate was broken. I've never seen anything like this. The one beside it was also cracked and on its way to breaking. The flywheel and pressure plate surfaces look good and not abused, but I'm concerned that the flywheel looks to have tiny superficial heat cracks. Can I turn this flywheel with little tiny cracks like that? I'm thinking not, but wanted others to weigh in. http://www.motate.org/clutch/clutch1.jpg http://www.motate.org/clutch/clutch2.jpg http://www.motate.org/clutch/clutch4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 The bang when the BJ unseats from the LCA is normal - happens every time. What brand puller are you using? I used to use a generic "OEM" brand version and it had the same problem you described. I now use the OTC one I mentioned above and it has held up well over 2 years of professional use. The FW can probably be machined. I see those hairline cracks on most FWs that come out of customers cars and they almost always clean up during the machining process. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Thanks underdog, it's the cheap Harbor Freight one. What about those broken springs? I've never seen or heard of that happening before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Yeah I've had a few customers report that type of failure, at least one other on an ACT. How many miles were on that clutch? What type of driving? The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Lots of stop and go driving, not many launches. Maybe 20-30k at most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 I'll be interested to see how my ACT HD looks when I pull the engine and transmission in a few weeks. Similar driving to you (when I used to DD it anyways) and just shy of 30,000 miles. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Can someone tell me where the other side of the ground strap at the pitch stop in my blurry picture goes? I thought it would be obvious, but it isn't. Like an idiot I forgot to disconnect it when I pulled the trans and broke it. A picture would be even better! I'm assuming on the trans somewhere, but can't find it yet. http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/clutch/61a622ad-f048-4091-8ab9-b238e3073952.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 A bolt on the tranny, I just installed it on one of the tranny mount bolts. But I think it came off one of the case bolts. I also known this has been asked before but I can't remember the correct answer. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Thanks for everyone's input. The clutch arrived at 6:30 last night. The car is back together and smoking like crazy due to the exhaust wrap, antiseize and penetrating spray. The new Southbend Stage 3 daily clutch feels WAY different than the ACT, almost stockish, which is strange since they said pedal feel would be 25% harder. TurninConcepts really helped me get it quickly, their customer service was amazing. I also installed Kartboy solid endlinks on the front since I wrecked the hex slot on one of the old ones, I'm very surprised at what a huge difference they make. I've always been in the "how can they be better than pillowball endlinks" camp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Glad to hear the car is back together. Can you elaborate on the huge difference you observed with the KB endlinks? I have them on my LGT and actually prefer a shielded spherical bearing type endlink since there is no bushing deflection that must be taken up before the bar is engaged. However it is has been so long since I installed them that I don't have a clean A/B comparison, as every customer's car comes in with different levels of modification and I don't get the seat time to adequately compare. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Sure, the car seems to be a lot more flat around corners and long sweeping curves. Where I could feel myself leaning excessively in the seat, I don't feel that anymore. I have stock ride height, stock struts and stock swaybars so I'm sure that's part of the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 When using a pitman arm puller to get the balljoint loose, just put a good bit of pressure on the balljoint and then smack the LCA with a hammer. It'll usually pop right out. You don't have to keep cranking on the puller till you've ruined it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.