twisty Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 ya i bought my set of 02 wrx wheels with a nice set of goodyears on them for $120, but they were 225/55, a bit too wide for stock struts. tires rubbed on the inside, so i got some 5mm spacers all around for a while. but really, the 225 is too wide for a 6.5" wide wheel so i went down to a 215 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 well they fit! I got the wheels one on the front and back to check clearance and its all good. they have basically brand new (under 3k miles) Michelin Pilot Alpin PA3's, this guy either had a lot of money to spend of just really wanted his garage space I feel like I robbed him for 250, he did have a pretty sick build in the works on his car, story was he bought these new oem struts and these tires drove it for 2-3k miles decided it wasn't the level of performance he wanted bought the new wheels, coilovers, turbo upgrade fmic the whole 9 yards here are the tires basically new http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150206_174739_zps413de9fa.jpeg and the wheels http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150206_180302_zpsa6c9435e.jpg oem struts (say Subaru, some Japanese symbols and are made by kyb) already have the front and rear driver side struts installed, went in no problem, zip tied the brake lines into their holders like everyone else http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150206_180247_zps2fcf709c.jpeg and the best part about the machine shop is seeing your parts come home looking like they just rolled out of the factory http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150206_174707_zpsaa90022c.jpeg also picked up the 95 legacy 4eat just to be sure all the sensor wiring and such was all the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 really productive day today spent my entire day and most of my night out working on the car. finished swapping over to the wrx struts, swapped out to my new transmission and got everything out back together for that, put on the new wheels and got it sitting back on the grouund, got the heads, intake, wiring, etc back on the engine. need to check on the torque on the keepers for the rockers not sure if the machinist torqued them or not but the engine is otherwise ready to roll. while i had everything apart i went to oreillys and picked up 10' of that small diameter vacuum tubing that is all over the intake and engine compartment and replaced every one of them i had found a couple leaking and all of the hoses were stiff and some really brittle, also took off and cleaned out the tb and cleared out the vacuum ports, took the clogged egr pipe sprayed pb blaster in it and spent a few minutes whacking it on the ground and it cleared all the blockage out, took off and resealed the oil pump and the front main. pretty much ready to put it on the hoist and lower it in tomorrow morning, should be able to try out the new suspension/tires tomorrow afternoon. i really like the ratings and description of those tires they are perfect for living in the NW any time of year but especially in winter. i took a couple pics today but im way too tird to deal with photobucket so i will add those tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Alright got everything back together in the engine compartment today, replaced a few more vacuum hoses along the way. new tranny cooler hoses, new brighter healight bulbs, am going to do the tcu wire mod with a toggle switch for power mode also Filled the radiator with a very very slow syphon with a small restrictor in the end so should be good. Will check after it gets up to temp tomorrow. Filled the new to me trans with new valvoline dex 3 and a quart of their import atf, used the t/c that came with it since the trans has about 100k less miles hopefully it lasts Tomorrow all that is left is to put on the oil filter, fill it and let the car warm up. I reset the ecu by pressing the brake a good few times with the battery disconnected. Taking it straight to get an alignment when im done with the warm up and check the fluids Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 It lives!! ended up having to fix a couple things, i forgot the intake manifold ground so it didnt start at first and somehow my dumbass only installed one of the cam seals so i got to remove a bunch of stuff but i got it done and started the car and let the new trans work fluid thru all the gears. Pics in morning So when i started it i have a lot of valve noise, i am pretty sure i read i am supposed to let it idle for a half hour to prime the lash adjusters and everything but i want to be sure before i do that in the morning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 another quick update with a few pics from before the fun process of pulling the trans http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150208_132542_zpscaf1740d.jpeg after all the madness was dealt with http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150211_204116_zps7883c17c.jpeg here are a couple pics of the mangled pass side control arm with the new one first one you can see the big kink in it http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150211_142212_zpse4f3af7c.jpeg and this one is with the ball joint hole and the front mounting point lined up perfectly, took quite a while to make sure it was dead on before I took this... pretty easily explains why getting an alignment didn't do $h!t for the horrible wheel wobble http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150211_142247_zpsc7e74c53.jpeg speaking of alignment I am getting it done at noon, probably going to go with the corner carver specs listed in the suspension FAQ for 1.5* front and 1* rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 just got the car back from the alignment shop. im taking it back sometime next week the guy completely ignored the settings I told him I wanted and he set the front camber to -.01* and the rear to about the same/ there is only .02* of cross camber but I am REALLY not happy he ignored what I told him to do several times before I left. overall the car feels good, going from blown out 235k mile struts and 14' steelies to almost new wrx struts wheels and tires it feels a bit more planted and a little less wiggly mid corner, would probably be better with the right alignment angles but good for now. on another note I need to pull the valve covers and bleed the HLA's because they are making a lot of noise even after running a while. another problem I just encountered is now that the car is back on the ground something is not right in my steering I didn't have a noticeable problem before so this was since I swapped struts wheels and tires and it is still happening after the alignment.. problem is that about 1/8th of a turn from center, left or right on the steering wheel I get a clunk in the steering and a bit of a spot of resistance, I know my power steering fluid is a little low but that shouldn't bring on a sudden clunky steering system.. im thinking worn out bushing that doesn't like a little stiffer suspension and bigger wheels/tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Here is how you can tell a good HLA from a bad HLA. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn41/henry616/Mobile%20Uploads/CEC1A70D-6153-41A3-88B7-74347B664805_zpsuxsmt3be.jpg Bleeding them helps but as they get old they just aren't as effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 weirdly i drove it around for a little while ticking like a diesel to take my gf to her classes at college and stopped at oreillys on the way back for a quart of oil and noticed the ticking had completely stopped, for some reason it just took quite a while to pump them up. i am pretty sure i got that steering clunk figured out. it also started making a really obnoxious noise from the driver side front brake and a slight clunk when pulling from a stop so i pulled the wheel and my tarded ass didnt fully tighten the tie rod end. gonna take it for a test drive when my son goes to bed and see if tightening it down solved it. overall i like the difference between the old and new suspension/wheels/tires, enough to make my glad i went with wrx parts instead of the stock for sure EDIT: here is how it looked when I got it, stock size tires, 14" steelies, blown out stock struts http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/IMG_20140723_195842_zps9f8f79da.jpg and how it looked earlier today. 02 wrx sedan wheels, struts with 3/8" rear spacers and stock size 205/55r16 tires http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150212_155213_zpsa51bcd6e.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/Untitled_zpsbec0ae00.png she has some cosmetic issues I need to address but no real rust holes its only on the surface around misc scratches from the previous owner, missing that little trim piece on the fender and needs that fat dent on the driver side rear quarter fixed which im planning to do pretty soon. but I am a LOT happier with how it looks on these wheels/tires it changed the whole look of the car I did some math... if the wrx struts actually get you about .5" lower, then I put on the wheels and tires along with them which adds .7" of tire diameter, so it adds .35 to the wheel/tire radius which means if you swap struts along with wheels/tires you will only be getting .15" lower and that is pretty much tire pressure variant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Got my abs codes finally Code 42 abnormal source voltage Code 51 abnormal valve relay Code 52 abnormal motor or motor relay Could this be a faulty ground or something since they are all voltage related? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 you should toss on a 02-03 wrx rear strut bar... <$50 and definitely a noticeable handling feel in the wagons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 you should toss on a 02-03 wrx rear strut bar... <$50 and definitely a noticeable handling feel in the wagons I have been considering getting a front and rear strut bar for a little while now will probably start with the rear and see how it feels, was going to get my alignment redone today for $free.99 since the shop half-assed it last week but will have to do it Wednesday when the service manager is back in the shop I have all of the misc handling and braking stickies favorited on my computer so I can study them on my spare time. really nice to have a "this will and this will not fit" list pre made I would like to swap out to the wrx front and h6 rear brakes now that I have the 16" wheels, on valentines day me and my fiancée took a trip up to larch mtn to play with the new setup a bit and man did it feel good on the paved corners on the way up there, but on the way back I came around a real tight, blind uphill corner a little too hot and there was a deer in the middle of the road a little past mid point in the turn, I about put my foot thru the floor and I barely stopped in time, bambi just about took a trip over my hood so my brakes are definitely high on my list just wondering what part of our great green PNW are you from? anywhere near the Portland area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 need to figure out my suspension as well, It isn't terrible as it sits now but I still have a little ass sag, I used a few washers on the rear struts they came in just BARELY under 3/8" but I still have a noticeably bigger front wheel gap, any more of a spacer and I would need to get longer studs on my struts, may have to find a set of used 1"-1.5" lowering springs for up front so I can remove the rear spacer washers and give myself room to bolt on a rear strut bar because right now I don't have any available threads on the studs I am just barely getting the whole nut on the studs as is. if anyone was curious the washers work fine, no weird noises or anything, I got the ones with the biggest outside diameter I could get to fit around the strut without hitting anything so I could spread the load as evenly as possible edit: or a set like this that gives an extra .5" of lowering in the front. that should be enough to make it even without washers because 3/8" doesn't seem to be quite enough and that is all the stock studs an take and still thread the whole upper nut on http://www.redline360.com/tanabe-gf210-lowering-springs-subaru-wrx-TGF045 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 alright I have some miles on my wrx struts and I am definitely liking having them on there, it feels just a little more planted in corners, once I get my camber changed it should grip better. should have that done some time this week gotta make a new apt for that. it seems like they are a bit more stiff over bumps and such but nothing real harsh, definitely worth it for the added stability in the corners and I don't really want to clutter up the forum with posts asking questions that have been asked before because I really don't wanna hear anyone whine about it so im gonna do it here it isn't a real high on my list deal but I figure if I am going to do it it will be over the course of a couple years of gathering up parts and slowly building. so im trying to learn a little more about the dual cam ej22 buildups, I have a real solid 95 ej22, later on I would like to get some 97-98 ej25d heads and intake to swap on, or just grab an ej25, swap on my recently machined heads and sell that ej25e to fund my ej22d. will see when the time comes but I have some question about the 22d I haven't really found a solid answer for. first off, I was reading in a few places that the 25d heads and both intake swap over, but the sensors are basically the same is what I think I was understanding? so you don't have to mess with bringing the sensors from one engine to the other as long as you take the engine harness with the 25d it will plug into the harness end from the 22's ecu? or is there a bunch of change that needs to be made at the plug end Second, people say the 22e on stock internals, sensors ecu etc. is good for 5psi if the head gaskets are good and not on their last leg. is the 22d limited to the same sad 5psi or is there some more room to play with since the comp is lower and the flow is better? i understand that at 5 psi on a 22D i will make more power than 5psi a 22E because of the increased flow thru the heads and intake, but 5psi still isn't much, i would like to run ar least 8 and i know once there its only a matter of time before 10 wants to come around...i have heard claims of some really outrageous power out of a turbo 22D on stock block, also the only other big thing would be tuning options, there is no cobb ap for that early of a ej25, very few off the shelf options to be had to tune with, best options i have seen people using are a piggyback which for low boost is fairly practical, or something fully tunable like a ms2. i get the basics of setting up a ms and most of the information is out there to make it work fine on a subie, probably with something like a 36-1 wheel and edis drop out the odd Subaru ignition system. anyone see a big advantage one way or the other? the ms seems like a pretty sweet setup for the price if i can keep from putting my head tru the wall trying to set it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I will answer your questions in sections as best as I possibly can. 1. The cam and crank sensors are the same and have the same ECU triggers between SOHC and DOHC. 2. If you're using the 25D intake, use the wiring harness and knock sensor for it. The knock sensors are different between 2.2 and 2.5L. 3. The max psi the 25D ECU will tolerate is anywhere from 5 to 10 and the 25D heads flow well, so if you use the right head gasket to drop C/R, you will have a bit of room. 4. The maximum power recorded on a stock EJ22 block is approximately 24psi/380awhp, which hint at more power being had if the wrong heads weren't used. 5. Megasquirt is intensive for what you want to build, but it works well. Very few people have used it, but they have had success. If you want another way, use 205 heads on the 22E, merge harnesses, and use the 205 ecu. It is another extensive way to achieve controllable power, but also very worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 thank you for that info! did a search on the 22 block and 20 heads and that actually looks pretty promising, would take a good deal of wiring time to get a wrx ecu to jive with my harness but no more so then making a new one for the ms2. opens up a lot more options for tuning and from what i was reading if you pull 2-3 degrees of timing from the wrx maps 14psi isnt a lot to ask from it. and the 10% displacement increase over the wrx engine helps lower the boost threshold and reduces lag a bit. looking at the specs of both engines they both use the same crank and forged rods and they both have cast pistons so there really isnt an advantage to swapping a full 205 engine other than the computer that comes with it. we have more displacement and the cylinder thickness is the same. and i havent heard anything about anyone throwing a rod thru a 22 block recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 alright got around a thousand miles on the car since putting it back together now drawback i am having, yesterday when i started it up i noticed i had a CEL. went to oreillys and got it read code is P0400 EGR FLOW issue of some kind. weirdly i got it read, drove home and it was stil on, parked for an hour or so, got back in the car and the CEL was off, a couple miles down the freeway it came back on and has stayed so far. when i had it apart i cleaned out the egr pipe which was clogged completely by the oily residue was hoping that would keep the code from coming back. the egr valve solenoid has new hose so it isnt a vac leak there. anyone know what my issue may be? bad diaphragm on the vac solenoid? clog deeper into the valve i couldnt get to with it on the intake? also thanks to some info from twisty i am on the hunt for a set of 96 gt fogs, or really any 3 1/2" rouund fog light to put in my stock L bumper. will weld up a bracket for them to mount on the L beam and cram them in the stock opening but it is easier and cheaper than trying to modify a 97+ ob/gt cover and beam to fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted September 11, 2015 Author Share Posted September 11, 2015 Back on here it's been a while now.. the 93 sedan my girl's sister was driving got stolen and was never found probably scrapped by a tweaker.. my 95 wagon is still doing okay, needs front suspension work there is something very wrong on the driver side front wheel it shakes and is making noise like a wheel bearing is starting to let go. So that is big on the to do list... still leaks oil. Gave up on fixing it. No matter how many leaks I fix it springs another. I will deal with it eventually but I don't have the time lately it will be seeing road trip duty this winter/early spring at some point. Pulling up the rear carpet to put Bedliner down to keep it from rusting awahy. I am also working on some storage for the back of the car a section that opens up to down where the spare tire well is and some small cabinet ish boxes with it to make organising my sons stuff easier. Will get pics soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Does anyone have the part # for the correct camber bolts for my 95 L? I want to get it dialed in better. I need a new driver side front hub so while it's apart may as well grab some camber bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted September 28, 2015 Author Share Posted September 28, 2015 Well I finally replaced the bad wheel bearing, the race had a chunk that fell out when I pulled the bearing and 2 more big cracks ready to break out. Looking to get a 5th wrx wheel, got a nail in a tire sidewall so I need 4 new to begin with may as well get 5 and have a matching full size spare too. It is also time for suspension bushings looking at the full set of aftermarket urethane bushings to make things less sloppy and get some better handling response from everything I had considered doing a turbo swap but I don't think that is for me.. waiting until 3k+ rpm to get good power is about useless for most driving. So I am thinking supercharger i have seen some of the other builds and decided to do some math.. i used 6k as the redline because thats when my auto shifts so manual trans guysbwill be able to usebthe same basis with added rpm to suit shift points etc.. this was just my spare time running numbers i don't claim this to be gospel just my math Ej22e 5.6875" pulley 2212cc 135ci (full cycle) 1106cc 67.5ci (Revolution) ****************************** M62 s/c 2.55" pulley (91-93 buick) (*94-95 2.8"*) 1016cc 62ci (revolution) ****************************** Pulley ratio: 2.23:1 (*94-95 2.031*) Ej22 6,000rpm redline M62 14,000rpm redline M62 @6k engine = 13,380rpm(91-93) m62 @6k engine =12,186rpm (*94-95*) ******************************* M62 @ 2.23x rpm = 138.26ci/rev (91-93) M62 @ 2.03xrpm = 125.86ci/rev (*94-95*) 138.26/67.5= 2.048x =15.4psi -x for heat losses 125.86/67.5= 1.864x = 12.7psi -x for heat losses For a stock ej22e that is way too much boost so the s/c pulley would need to be changed to lower it to a safe boost level. Considered picking up a ej22t short block and some wrx heads but will see what happens with $$$ I have other projects going with a s/c I would definitely run water/meth once it hit 5psi and probably an air/water ic if I went over 5-6psi biggest reasons for supercharger.. 1 cheap and readily available superchargers from ebay/junkyard 2 minimal modifications and fabrication to attach and plumb up 3 only basic components needed for function.. rrfpr, minor timing control (made up for with meth), fuel pump, parallel fuel rail mod, possible equal length n/a header etc... 4 instant off the bottom torque perfect for all wheel drive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Considering some 225/50r16s instead of the stock wrx 205/55r16 Was reading the initial turn in response may feel a bit less sharp but the grip is better, the diameter is identical but they are .79" wider.. not sure yet, I have some wheel spacers I was given for free they are pretty thin I would say probably 1/8-3/16" I can use to get the 225s to sit better if need be but I was looking on wrx forums and they fit the wheels fine Making my shopping list for suspension work and new tires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 i had 225/50/16 on stock wrx wheels and couldnt use them without spacers, the tires rubbed on the oem struts. i also didnt like how much wider they were than the stock wheels, it made it feel spongy with all that sidewall warping. i'll be damned if i can remember what size im running on that car now, too many different changes since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 That's pretty much what I read on the wrx forum too. They said you get more grip but it feels soft.. sounds like i would at least need the spacers I have not sure which to go with yet will keep searching Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Anyone have a recommendation for tires for the 205/55? Trying to find a fairly cheap tires that has good grip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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