93ej22 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 well I had an alignment done today since I got the different wheels and tires on and im not real happy about it, I got the before and after readout of where it was at and it seems like they half assed it I mentioned that I was worried the front passenger control arm was likely bent and I wanted it looked at because of how completely destroyed the wheel was when I bought the car. they didn't look at it and didn't say a word about it when I picked it up, it is definitely bent the caster is at 1.6* on that wheel and 3* on the other where its supposed to be, since its not adjustable it must be bent, and even with an alignment it still shakes hard on that wheel on the freeway and pulls to the right, none of the settings on that wheel are the same as the other front wheel. at the very least im going to replace that control arm and go back for another alignment within the 30 day warranty period with a very exact list of angles I want from the suspension sticky thread but on the plus side I have one of the few 95 legacy L's that does have a rear sway bar so I have less work to do when I swap in a stiffer one. looks like I also have both front struts leaking slightly so those are on the list. I went into a freeway to freeway ramp a little quicker than usual today because some jackass in a lexus isf tried passing me to get onto it first like a jackass and holy body roll batman! this thing feels almost dangerously unstable under hard cornering at speed, gonna need to get some better struts and stiffer bars under it asap here are the new snow tires I put on for the winter and the impreza? steelies I picked up right after I got the car http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20141206_141912_zps1967e849.jpg they came painted all in that forest green color and I really didn't like it so I just taped off the indents and sprayed them black real fast http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20141206_141928_zpse236ed4e.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 so I went out and tried to ground pin 30 last weekend or so... well it turns out that slot in the ECUs harness is already occupied. so it isn't pin 30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 dang another dead end. hopefully someone figures it out, how hard is it to bring over the ecu from the manual trans donor car? my car is being a huge p.i.t.a right now, thinking I need motor mounts I have a lot of shaking/vibration at idle that goes away completely when im moving. its pretty strong and at its worst it shakes the hood pretty good, and sometimes in neutral when warm it isn't that bad but it is still there. I have that new cv axle but haven't got around to putting it in, don't really want to until I have a different trans ready to go in while I have it on stands. still need to grab a front lca and buy some new struts. apparently my ring & pinion for my steering is leaking as well. always something to do at least Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 going to get some starting spray and see if I can find a vacuum leak, that shake seems pretty extreme to be just the mounts, they are probably shot too tho huge to do list with this car, I bought a bit of a basket case clearly. is it a serious headache to swap to the manual trans ecu when you swap the transmission over? seems like it would keep a lot of gremlins away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 car finally threw a code for the egr. what are the chances of taking it off and cleaning it out solving the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 and so it begins.... got the car into the garage and got the hood off, started labeling wires and getting ready to pull the engine/trans. its about tax return time so i gotta get the tranny taken care of and do some maintenance on the engine while its out... and change the brakes... and axle shaft.. gonna be a long one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 So i have been doing a lot of searching but i cant find what i want to know... Im looking into wether or not the single cam ej25 cams will fit in my 22 heads and make any noticeable difference. Not looking to swap the shortblock right now but i figure while the engine is out i will do some porting and polishing and i can probably get used stock cams for almost nothing. Every thread i find is about swapping heads cant find the cam swap info Getting my last car i sold back today because of some serious bs the lady i sold it to pulled but at least i will have it back and have a commuter while i play with my scoob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 the cam shafts will not interchange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 dang was worth a shot anyway. not a big deal I have a few ideas for the build going to do the wire mod to put the trans in sport shift and see if its any less boring to drive, will go ahead and port my heads a bit when I get them off and replace all the gaskets. if I could find a good condition ej25 at the yard I would do the hybrid with my heads but will see what happens, probably not right now. if I go nuts with a swap I will shoehorn a eg33 in there with a lot of exhaust porting and maybe a cant be much harder than the overdone swap I did putting a 4.3 in my LUV.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 managed to get the engine out and on the stand today and pulled the bad cv axle on the driver side and tossed it out going to run a on the stand compression test and see where im at, give it a quick pressure washing and start disassembling the accessories and manifolds. see what all i need to do to get this engine to run well for a little while until i decide on what to do next for it. found a couple vacuum leaks during the disassembly so that should help a bit, going to clean everything up do a little porting and at least do a full gasket kit with head gaskets. looks like it was running pretty lean on 2 of the cylinders and a little rich in one so no huge surprises there. took a couple pics but its late and im doing this on my xbox so not gonna post tonight edit: didn't want to keep posting a new reply every time so im adding on.. got the rear driveline pulled, the hub and brake off the passenger side about ready to pull that cv axle. have to do some work for a bit but am hoping to get back later and get the transmission out of there and find a new one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 alright so my engine is not in real great shape. took my breaker bar on the crank bolt with the manifolds off and ran a compression test with a lot of turns on each cylinder. #1 90 #2 100 #3 35 with an audible leak from an intake valve #4 70 with an audible leak around an exhaust valve looking like I get to tear farther into the engine and see what all I am going to need to have done while its apart. hoping I can clean the heads up and get some new valve seals and run it but I may be looking at a full rebuild. in which case I am torn between rebuilding this engine completely or trying to find a low mileage 2.5 short block from a wrecked scoob in the yard and put my heads on. either way I need head work and I have 235k miles so everything is pretty tired I did manage to find a 4eat about 150 miles away with 150k on it from a wrecked 95 legacy so its the same year and I definitely wont have any compatibility issues with the wiring. should be able to grab that as soon as my return is deposited made a small list of parts I am planning to pick up NEW kyb gr2 struts for 02-07 wrx USED STI springs, may go with WRX depending on what I find, not looking to slam the car just get it a little lower OB 18mm rear sway bar GT 20mm front sway bar 4eat trans with 150k miles passenger side front control arms, mine are definitely bent maybe strut bars but not decided on that. and will be looking for a good deal on some snowflake wheels I love those on wagons. and a ob hatch wing is on the maybe list then either the machining work and a full rebuild on my 22 or the head work and a swap to a 25 short block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 BEFORE you pull the heads, check the timing. the passenger side is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 BEFORE you pull the heads, check the timing. the passenger side is off. not trying to argue at all just confused how do you come to that conclusion the two bad cylinders are on opposide sides of the engine, specifically because of the one cylinder being so far off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 #1 90 #2 100 #3 35 with an audible leak from an intake valve #4 70 with an audible leak around an exhaust valve the timing is off both sides. 1 & 3 are the passenger side. 2 & 4 are the driver side. compression should be over 150. i seriously doubt that you have 2 bad valves on opposite side of the block. possible , but very doubtful on an ej22. how did this engine run? i still would check the timing, it easy. use the hash marks on the front edge of the cam sprockets, and the hash mark on the REAR tab of the crank sprocket. re-align the timing and repeat the test. if the compression improves, install ALL new timing parts, belt, 3 idlers and and tensioner idler. depending on the year the piston type tensioner does not need replacement, unless leaking or bad. i did mis-read your post and thought 1 & 3 were the bad cylinders. but i still stand by my assessment. check the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 i will take a look at it here in a few minutes and get back to you. i dont doubt that it is off by a tooth or two i had a hell of a time getting it all lined up when i was doing the timing belt replacement. this is also a hand cranked comp test with a breaker bar so im assuming it is still accurate but man does it take a lot of cranking it ran okay, maybe a little down on power it had a lot less pull off the bottom than my 93 sedan does. it has 235k miles now so it is due for a lot of work reguardless, i dont want to half ass the rebuild process and blow a head gasket soon or find out i needed to get into the block so i will see what it looks like when i get into it, the hg's and timing idlers are getting done at the least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 this is also a hand cranked comp test with a breaker bar so im assuming it is still accurate but man does it take a lot of cranking a compression test should be done with all plugs removed. this means only one cylinder will have compression, the one with the gauge. it sounds like you have made up your mind on how much you want to rebuild. and it sounds like you are new to these engines. i don't want to tell you that you are wrong , but i would not assume it needs things it does not. 235k is not an indicator of needing a rebuild. these are 135 hp engines. they are very tough, take a lot of abuse and very reliable. on the other hand if you enjoy rebuilding engines, and have the time , money and tools, have at it. i just don't want you to make a mistake in your diagnosis and spend time and money that is not required for a good daily driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 just checked it and the cam timing is dead on everything lines up perfect and yes all plugs are removed from it to make it easier to turn over i just cranked it quite a few times on each cylinder to make sure it was as high as it was gonna go, used two different comp testers because i was confused as to why it was reading so low looks like at the least i am in for a valve adjustment hopefully no machine work is needed but we shall see when i open that can of worms. i am pretty new to these engines but i do have a good time rebuilding engines in general, i just dont want to not do something and have it be a problem in the next year and have to pull it out again. easy as this engine is to get out of there it would be nice to get it all knocked out before its a problem. but i also dont want to spend a ton of extra time and money on it when it is still running i had a couple times where the engine got real hot, not fully overheated but i believe that was transmission related, i get a nice strong smell of oily fumes when sitting and pretty often out of my vents so at least valve cover gaskets which i know are leaking for sure, everything has a nice thick layer of old oil all over it too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 been reading and whats the possibility of my lash adjusters being clogged up or bad? or is it more likely to be a bad valve seat or worn valve, this engine wasn't well taken care of it had some NASTY old oil in it when I got it. just picked up the 14mm 12pt socket I need to pull the heads but im holding off on that for the moment, just pressure washed the whole long block after hand cleaning the majority of the gunk off. got the valve covers off now as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Alright got the heads off, good news so far, the cylinders look great no serious wear visible on any of them. A little bit of vertical wear marks on one cylinder looks like a piece of gunk rubbed on it you cant feel it at all. Looking like i can clean it up and replace the gaskets and leave the shortblock alone. The heads don't look bad the only cylinder that has much gunk deposited near the valves is 4, judging by the exhaust it had been running rich compared to the other 3. I am calling around for prices on a valve job tomorrow to see what it would cost to have them done and have seals installed. deit made a few calls around and the best price i got was from my usual machine shop i have used for all my other misc needs. will probably be dropping them off for seals, surfacing and valve grind tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 well here is where I was at when I started , since then I took a buffing wheel and some tooth paste to the headlights so they look WAY better now http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150129_122828_zps85be38cf.jpeg engine out of the way, everything waiting on a good cleaning up, had a couple pics of the removal process but you have all seen what that looks like so I didn't waste the space http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150203_143754_zps38d85825.jpeg pressure washed the long block, took the heads off and dropped them at the machinist, should hear back later today about whether they just needed seals or if a valve grind was required. took a scrubbing pad to the piston tops to get the little bit of gunk off http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w216/ridered972/20150203_143739_zpscf126211.jpeg found the 4eat I need to replace mine with already pulled for me about an hour away from here, in the process of trying to find a set of wrx struts nearby but no luck so far, will be going to picknpull in a few to try and get a pair of sway bars, windshield squirters, driver door mirror and some small interior stuff. just placed the order for all the misc gaskets, seals, oil pump, timing component set etc for my engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 been reading and whats the possibility of my lash adjusters being clogged up or bad? or is it more likely to be a bad valve seat or worn valve, this engine wasn't well taken care of it had some NASTY old oil in it when I got it. I would be surprised if you didn't have a bad HLA or two. I posted the FSM procedure for bleeding the HLAs here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...-192029p3.html And some pics of the process here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ei-191227.html But in my experience a bad HLA didn't seem to affect the way it ran, but it seemed a bit smoother when I bled and replaced some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 I would be surprised if you didn't have a bad HLA or two. I posted the FSM procedure for bleeding the HLAs here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...-192029p3.html And some pics of the process here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ei-191227.html But in my experience a bad HLA didn't seem to affect the way it ran, but it seemed a bit smoother when I bled and replaced some. sweet deal thank you for the links hopefully i will be getting my heads back from the shop today. im sure the time in the hot tank cleared out any crap that may have built up so hopefully i can bleed them and be good to go picking up my transmission tomorrow afternoon, hopefully the heads today, and i made my parts order last night, full gasket set, timing component kit with everything but a belt and water pump since both of mine are new, some new headlight bulbs and a set of 4 new kyb gr2 struts (for the legacy) i was going to go with some used wrx or sti stuff but i may as well go with new stock struts and upgrade my springs a bit later on. also made a run to picknpull for some misc small parts, replaced my broken tail light housing, the windshield squirters that were missing for some god unknown reason, and a couple small things like the ash tray and some of the surrouunding trim that was missing, for some reason every single legacy in the yard was missing the cup holder above the stereo so now i get to scavenge at another yard for one. i did find a 97 outback i can pull the sway bars from but i didnt bring my breaker bar so i will have to grab those at a later date. EDIT: just got a call from the machinist and he is just picking up some valve seals for it because he didnt have any on hand, it did need the valve grind so here in a couple hours i should have them back sub-edit: looks like i may have gotten lucky i got offered a set of 03 wrx wagon struts/springs for a good price so going to have to put a cancel on those kyb's from rockauto and pick these up on my way to get the transmission tomorrow, pretty stoked i wasnt happy about having to keep stock struts on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 hey guys i need some quick clarification, will i have any problem putting 02 wrx sedan struts on my wagon other than a saggy back end gotta find out tonight, i am going in the morning to go get my transmission and the struts and wheels are on the way there he also has some of the 5 spoke 02 sedan wheels i would really like to pick up with the struts with stock size tires. gonna do a search on fitment... i think they will fit they are 16x6.5, 5x100, +53 offset with stock size 205/55r16's aanyone know for sure how well the 02 sedan struts will fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 hey guys i need some quick clarification, will i have any problem putting 02 wrx sedan struts on my wagon other than a saggy back end gotta find out tonight, i am going in the morning to go get my transmission and the struts and wheels are on the way there he also has some of the 5 spoke 02 sedan wheels i would really like to pick up with the struts with stock size tires. gonna do a search on fitment... i think they will fit they are 16x6.5, 5x100, +53 offset with stock size 205/55r16's aanyone know for sure how well the 02 sedan struts will fit? i can tell you the wheels/ tires will fit no problem, i put a set on my sedan, and had them on my wagon for a while as well. the struts will fit, i dont think the wrx will drop you down significantly tho. the sti ones will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93ej22 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Okay awesome thank you for the help! Im not looking to go real low more about the better spring rate, some time later on i may go with some lowering springs but for now the half inch is fine I am getting the struts with 3-5k miles and the wheels with nearly new tires all for 250 for that price i could survive having to redrill a couple holes and make some rear spacers. guy really wants all the old parts out if the garage since he went with coilovers and bbs wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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