cryo Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 yeah we are actually doing a fair amount of work to the GM cars these days including custom tuning. Just finished up an 815hp ZL1 Camaro on E85.....I likes me a v8 grumble every once in a while for sure. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 yeah we are actually doing a fair amount of work to the GM cars these days including custom tuning. Just finished up an 815hp ZL1 Camaro on E85.....I likes me a v8 grumble every once in a while for sure. That is sweet, didn't know you guys had started taking on GM. Will have to reach out to you when I need a re-tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 I just got done rebuilding my motor and putting the car back together. Was my first time I have built a motor and did a lot of other things but I know the Corvette C5 platform in great detail now. Unfortunately, I had to tear my motor down for the worst reason you could imagine. Long story short is I lost oil pressure one day, suspecting oil pump went out, which it did. However the reason it went out was because an aluminum foil seal from an oil bottle fell in while I presume the previous owner's shop did an oil change. It damage a couple lifters going through the head which ultimately damaged the cam as well. That seal was floating between the windage tray and pan for who knows how long till it got stock in the oil pickup tube and starved the pump for oil. I know it wasn't me who spilled the seal during the oil changes because I use a Hopkins funnel with a screen in it. PSA: If you take your car to get oil changes somewhere I highly recommend you buy your own oil and remove the seal for them to rule out this happening to you. If you do oil changes yourself make sure you use a funnel with a screen in it. Onto the good I have put 550 miles on the car since the rebuild, it's ran great, no leaks, no CELs, nothing of note in the oil filter, no oil consumption. The only mechanical performance difference between now and prior to tear down is I changed a cams with one almost identical in profile and had my heads ported. I took my car to the dyno for a retune and made good power. The conditions were 45degrees, correction factor of 1.19 and it was on a dynojet. I ended up maxing out my MAF right at redline due to the cold weather I presume. So far so good, I was dying to see if the motor would hold together on the dyno from my build and it did so apparently I did something right. http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af94/tommypenguin/Corvette/DADB03B4-C944-4BD6-9347-F884719F0006_zpsycevqqqb.jpg WOW very interesting to read this. I actually dropped one of those into my first built Motor in my outback XT. It was more like a half of one. I never did see it go through the motor and end up in the oil. Drove it 100K before losing an exhaust valve and so put another built motor in. Lucky I didn't have problems. Sorry to hear your story but glad to read it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 The oil pickup should have a sieve to prevent that from happening. If that's missing it's a bad engine design. It's easy to drop stuff into the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommypenguin Posted August 29, 2016 Author Share Posted August 29, 2016 WOW very interesting to read this. I actually dropped one of those into my first built Motor in my outback XT. It was more like a half of one. I never did see it go through the motor and end up in the oil. Drove it 100K before losing an exhaust valve and so put another built motor in. Lucky I didn't have problems. Sorry to hear your story but glad to read it. The oil pickup should have a sieve to prevent that from happening. If that's missing it's a bad engine design. It's easy to drop stuff into the engine. There is a screen in the pickup tube if that is what you mean by sieve. The aluminum portion was wadded up, the plastic portion was spread out, I would suspect probably 25-30% of the screen area was obstructed by the debris. While I can't prove definitively it was the cause of the oil pump failure it seems logical to think that it would have accelerated the wear on the pump given the obstruction. I will also say this, I've done extensive research during and since the motor build and the oem oil pump going out is a fairly common place. The debris could have been there for years and the pump just failed naturally. I upgraded to a melling oil pump. The OEM lifters on the LS1 are also known to be a weak link, specifically the rollers. GM discontinued the LS1 lifters and now recommends replacing them with LS7 lifters, which I did along with a cam almost identical in profile to the previous cam. You can see a couple of the cam journals with damage to them in the pics below, that was the culprit for the metal shavings I discovered after cutting open the oil filter which led to my need to tear down. I don't believe I provided the most critical reason in this thread for having to rebuild. In addition to having the lifters, cam and pump failure. I discovered a crack in the block along one of the head studs. The previous owner had upgraded heads installed by the shop that likely dropped the oil bottle seal into the engine and if you don't clean out the head stud bolt holes, you can crack the block from the pressure of the torque value. They obviously didn't clean out the bolt holes and I couldn't in good conscience put everything back together with a cracked block. The block is aluminum and given my power levels I couldn't find a shop that had faith in being able to weld it to hold up for the long haul. I had to buy a replacement block for a grand. I ended reusing my stock rotating assembly, hot tanking new block and parts, honing cylinders. Polishing crank, replacing rings and bearings, decking heads. Reassembling myself. Looking back, had my block not been cracked I would have likely been able to just replace the cam, lifters, oil pump and been back on my way if I was looking for the cheapest route back on the road. I did a whole bunch of preventative maintenance while doing the build. If you're bored and need some bathroom reading I wrote a lessons learned thread from rebuilding the motor. http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/3756131-engine-rebuild-diy-lessons-learned.html Couple pics of the carnage for the thread. http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af94/tommypenguin/Corvette%20C5%20Engine%20Removal/7AA6C90C-C21C-48AA-A0EB-80931B61240F_zpsd19wwrzb.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af94/tommypenguin/Corvette%20C5%20Engine%20Removal/DF11E4C0-938D-47AD-8100-F3D005286C58_zpshqswn4cj.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af94/tommypenguin/Corvette%20C5%20Engine%20Removal/DA527B9F-C480-4260-8F37-9D8E0C3362D1_zpsnxwnwwqw.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af94/tommypenguin/Corvette%20C5%20Engine%20Removal/5B0EEBE9-D5C2-4B5C-92F4-526EACF6465B_zpstuxoa1v8.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af94/tommypenguin/Corvette%20C5%20Engine%20Removal/EBFBA279-BA2F-46B7-8472-4B39DC5DA5D5_zpsobn9r5bo.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af94/tommypenguin/Corvette%20C5%20Engine%20Removal/D46B8618-749E-4701-B64D-C4C5FE4C60AC_zpskcgds3ud.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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