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Need help diagnosing issue


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Before you do compression test, remove the coil packs and twist the electrical contact pins slightly. As these cars age, the electrical plugs on the coil packs become slightly loose and if you twist the pins with a pair of needlenose pliers slightly, it will make everything tight again when you plug the connector back in.

 

It doesn't take much twisting-just a little, but I have fixed a lot of cylinder misfires with this and I think that you should try it before throwing in the towel on a compression check. It just may fix the issue.

 

Good luck.

 

I'm going to try this and check to see if the #4 coil pack is getting power to it. If that doesn't fix the issue then it's going to have to go bye bye.

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I'm going to try this and check to see if the #4 coil pack is getting power to it. If that doesn't fix the issue then it's going to have to go bye bye.

 

It's possible that that would be part of the issue, but honestly that's not going to have any bearing on the oil consumption. Just FYI. If you solve the misfire issue you'll still want to track down the oil consumption issue.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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I'm going to try this and check to see if the #4 coil pack is getting power to it. If that doesn't fix the issue then it's going to have to go bye bye.

 

Just a suggestion, but, if you're still making payments on this particular vehicle, you will have to let the car go at a significant loss. (and that's IF anyone will take it off your hands!) Your best bet, both financially and in terms of having a really fun asset, is to buck up, drop the cash and fix it.

 

To put it in perspective, an 05LGT in Limited trim with over 100k on the clock has a NADA value of 89ish, market dependent. If you owe anything less than that, you're in better shape to further invest, unless you'd like to be nearly 5k in the hole when you sell it at a loss, for about 3k, tops, to someone who knows they'll have to replace the motor. (For at least 5k!)

 

Think hard and weigh your options before you let it "go bye bye" -

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It's possible that that would be part of the issue, but honestly that's not going to have any bearing on the oil consumption. Just FYI. If you solve the misfire issue you'll still want to track down the oil consumption issue.

 

Yeah, I would still want to figure out the oil consumption issue as well. I don't even know if it's consuming as much as I thought. I get crazy different readings on different days. I always check the oil after I park the car, after driving it. But sometimes it seems like it's low, then I check it again on another day, and it's fine.

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Just a suggestion, but, if you're still making payments on this particular vehicle, you will have to let the car go at a significant loss. (and that's IF anyone will take it off your hands!) Your best bet, both financially and in terms of having a really fun asset, is to buck up, drop the cash and fix it.

 

To put it in perspective, an 05LGT in Limited trim with over 100k on the clock has a NADA value of 89ish, market dependent. If you owe anything less than that, you're in better shape to further invest, unless you'd like to be nearly 5k in the hole when you sell it at a loss, for about 3k, tops, to someone who knows they'll have to replace the motor. (For at least 5k!)

 

Think hard and weigh your options before you let it "go bye bye" -

 

I don't owe money on it. It's almost at 150k and I bought it for about 5k.

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Yeah, I would still want to figure out the oil consumption issue as well. I don't even know if it's consuming as much as I thought. I get crazy different readings on different days. I always check the oil after I park the car, after driving it. But sometimes it seems like it's low, then I check it again on another day, and it's fine.

 

 

To check the oil, park the car on level ground, I do this at work, pull the dip stick about 3", close the hood, go to work. 8 hours later, open hood, wipe stick, check oil, top off as needed.

 

This is the only way to check the oil correctly in these cars.

 

oil compsumtion, check the PCV, if it rattles when you shake it, its good. A ej257 is now $1645 not $1800

 

Rings are the next issue. See my click here link for what I did.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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To check the oil, park the car on level ground, I do this at work, pull the dip stick about 3", close the hood, go to work. 8 hours later, open hood, wipe stick, check oil, top off as needed.

 

This is the only way to check the oil correctly in these cars.

 

There are other ways to skin a cat; I check mine every time I get gas, and it takes ~5 minutes (flat surface imperative).

 

1) Pop the hood, pull the stick and break the seal on the fill cap

 

2) Fill gas tank, check other fluids, clean windows, wipe down wheels, chat up MILF, whatever occupies ~5 min

 

3) Wipe dipstick, re-insert, check level on both sides, wipe, and repeat until I'm satisfied that the reading is accurate, adding oil if necessary and re-checking until the lowest reading is at or slightly above the H fill dot

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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For what you have in it, and if you like the car, and if it's in good shape otherwise, it would definitely be worth putting some money in it. Unfortunately, there are no other cars out there like these. The 4th generation body is extremely handsome, compared to other cars of the era, but even to new models. It's sleek, refined, and has excellent body lines (my opinion) while the other manufacturers made stodgy cars.

 

Of course, it's up to you, but these are cool cars. ;):)

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  • 5 months later...

So major update after a long time!

 

So it turned out to be two burnt exhaust valves. So I took it to get a head job.

 

That fixed the misfire and the shutter problem. Also, since head gasket was replaced it got rid of a small coolant leak

 

However, it became apparent that it had an oil leak. It seemed like it was leaking form the rear main seal. Therefore, I took it to go get the rear main seal replaced and the clutch while they were at it.

 

The car ran smoother after but it was still leaking oil. I discovered that it was leaking oil from the turbo oil line. I took it back and all it needed was for it to be re-tightened.

 

After all that work and a lot of money involved, the car seems to be running fine without leaking oil so far.

 

However, I feel that the turbo is sluggish now. It feels like it doesn't boost past 5k rpms.

 

Could the turbo be on its way out?

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So for the head job they didn't pull the motor? It can be done, but on a high mile car it just makes sense to yank it. That's the time to replace the rear main seal, clutch, etc etc.

 

We can't speculate as to whether your the turbo is on its way out... it could be a number of other simple things, too. Do you have more leaks? Are you seeing full boost? Turbo shaft play should have been checked with the downpipe off, to assess the health and remaining lifespan of your snail. Guess they missed/ignored that one as well?

 

Why are you finding all these leaks, and not your mechanic? Seems like you need a more attentive and knowledgeable wrench.

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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So for the head job they didn't pull the motor? It can be done, but on a high mile car it just makes sense to yank it. That's the time to replace the rear main seal, clutch, etc etc.

 

We can't speculate as to whether your the turbo is on its way out... it could be a number of other simple things, too. Do you have more leaks? Are you seeing full boost? Turbo shaft play should have been checked with the downpipe off, to assess the health and remaining lifespan of your snail. Guess they missed/ignored that one as well?

 

Why are you finding all these leaks, and not your mechanic? Seems like you need a more attentive and knowledgeable wrench.

 

Yeah they didn't pull the motor to do the head job, they just took it apart with the engine on.

 

Yeah the mechanic was not very good at looking past the original issue. All of the work could have been done the first time I took it. I was about to refuse paying for work that my car needed.

 

I am currently not aware of any leaks and I don't have a boost gauge to see if it is hitting full boost.

 

However, I am now looking elsewhere to take my car to. If anyone knows good shops nearby East Los Angeles, I would appreciate the heads up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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