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Depends on what's wrong with it.

 

Your brevity leads me to believe that the engine is toast, no?

 

If that's the case -- $3k-4500, though you'll likely have to dip lower to get a buyer to take it off your hands. This is also market dependent; in some areas of the nation, Subarus just don't sell very well. ie, The South, East Coast.

 

I honestly haven't had time to touch it. So I still have no idea what is wrong. I live in the Midwest, but due to my lab work sessions I will have no time to work on it. It has 84,000miles, think $8,000 is reasonable?

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My buddy is going to start on the car tonight, since I am three hours away attending Med School. He believes that it might be a worn pivot bearing on the waste gate. Maybe this will be a cheaper fix.

 

I honestly haven't had time to touch it. So I still have no idea what is wrong. I live in the Midwest, but due to my lab work sessions I will have no time to work on it. It has 84,000miles, think $8,000 is reasonable?

 

What did your buddy say about it? He thought it was the pivot bearing on the wastegate -- Was that the problem?

 

If it needs a new engine, it's an expensive paperweight. It'll need about 4k just to get it back up and running again. Buying it for 8k and then dropping another 4k, plus time and hassle doesn't seem like a very good investment for most people who just want a car to drive, which is arguably the majority of the car-buying market. As for someone who'd buy it knowing it's a "mechanic's special", you'll be lucky to get 4k for it.

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What did your buddy say about it? He thought it was the pivot bearing on the wastegate -- Was that the problem?

 

If it needs a new engine, it's an expensive paperweight. It'll need about 4k just to get it back up and running again. Buying it for 8k and then dropping another 4k, plus time and hassle doesn't seem like a very good investment for most people who just want a car to drive, which is arguably the majority of the car-buying market. As for someone who'd buy it knowing it's a "mechanic's special", you'll be lucky to get 4k for it.

 

He never got time to look at it since his wife was in an accident. Sounds like it be better to send to someone else,and have them work on it. After it is fixed sell it and cut my losses.

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Cutting your losses is selling it as-is. Like I said -- To fix it, you're looking at spending at least 3k (likely more) to fix it to make it roadworthy again. I don't know what you paid for it, but in my personal opinion, it'd be worth more if you put a new engine in it before you sold it, but the common consensus is that money invested in repairs is not (often) returned in a subsequent sale, post-fix.
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If the car is sound otherwise, a investment now and doing it right, you'll reap the benefits over the coming years in driving pleasure.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Rattling noise and no boost? I don't remember a "bearing" on the shaft for the turbo wastegate, at least not something that would rattle as described. The wastegate is internal and is located on the back side of the turbo (hot, exhaust side). The hot side is cast iron. The intake, compressor side is aluminum. On top of the turbo is the wastegate actuator. It looks like a small metal can with a rod that sticks out the back. This rod attaches to a lever arm above the hot side to open/close the wastegate. The actuator rod attaches to the wastegate arm with a pin a circlip. If it had somehow detached at this point, you would get symptoms as you described. Your wastegate would be waving around like a flag inside the turbo and you wouldn't get any boost. I don't want to give you false hope but it would be worth it to take a look. You will at least get a little familiarity with what the turbo looks like anyways. Best of luck...

 

 

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Rattling noise and no boost? I don't remember a "bearing" on the shaft for the turbo wastegate, at least not something that would rattle as described. The wastegate is internal and is located on the back side of the turbo (hot, exhaust side). The hot side is cast iron. The intake, compressor side is aluminum. On top of the turbo is the wastegate actuator. It looks like a small metal can with a rod that sticks out the back. This rod attaches to a lever arm above the hot side to open/close the wastegate. The actuator rod attaches to the wastegate arm with a pin a circlip. If it had somehow detached at this point, you would get symptoms as you described. Your wastegate would be waving around like a flag inside the turbo and you wouldn't get any boost. I don't want to give you false hope but it would be worth it to take a look. You will at least get a little familiarity with what the turbo looks like anyways. Best of luck...

 

 

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This. Which was why I wanted to know the outcome when he said he was going to have his friend look at it.

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  • 3 weeks later...
So everyone was right about everything. Decided to drop the oil pan, and found chunks of metal. Honesty my heart dropped when I saw all the debri in there. Does anyone have an idea of what the car is worth with the blown motor? I'm going to take a huge hit, but would at least like to get more than scrap money out of it. I don't want to part it out either.
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Thanks, it just won't be a good way to spend my money right now. Oh well live and learn I suppose.

 

Buy it twice and you'll have a brand new car, man. I did it. I'm (mostly) happier for it, and I haven't gone completely broke. .

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In the sticky's on this forum check out, "web links saved by JMJ a few pages in are a list of places.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html

 

post 113

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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If I do, I'd to look for a low mileage used motor. Any idea where to look for one?

 

Why? You'll maybe save a couple hundred bucks, if that. New SB from Heuberger, with gasket kit, is $2081 shipped to your door. Headwork is ~$400, probably less, in your case.

 

You'll need new timing gear -- ~$400

New oil pump ~$150

Oil Cooler ~$200

New Oil Pickup ~$20-$175

 

That's just the basics -- there will be things along the way that you'll want to replace/upgrade, too.

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See my click here link for ideas. That's when the ej257 was $1845.

 

It's about that now -- $1645 (co$t, believe it or not!) plus $200 shipped FedEx anywhere CONUS.

 

On a related note, I just rec'd my new oil pump and oil cooler from Heuberger. After the FedEx guy dropped my first motor, he now brings EVERYTHING directly to me at my desk. :lol:

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Lucky for me, my Dealer gives me the same price as the on line places. Makes it very easy. I made sure and said Hi to the Parts guys at WBM last Sunday.

 

Dropped your block... makes me cringe....

 

 

OP, where did you say you live ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Lucky for me, my Dealer gives me the same price as the on line places. Makes it very easy. I made sure and said Hi to the Parts guys at WBM last Sunday.

 

Dropped your block... makes me cringe....

 

 

OP, where did you say you live ?

 

Yup, and had one of my guys not seen it happen, I wouldn't have known until it was too late. Dude didn't know what it was (other than heavy), and apparently isn't a car guy, but was super apologetic once he found out how much it was.

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