Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Need help please!


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum so please take it easy. Anyway, just bought a 05 Legacy GT wagon with 80K miles last week. Awesome car, minus the fact that I believe that the turbo blew yesterday on me. While I was just cruising along, I kept hearing the whipping sucking sound. I pulled over to inspect the vehicle and nothing looked out of place. Next thing I know after getting back on the road there was this rattling noise and no boost what so ever. I called a buddy and had it towed to our shop to sit there till I get time to work on it. Does anyone have an idea what it could be? There was no oil spills or anything, but I think the turbine is rattling in the turbo housing. I just got the car, and I am very disappointed that it is out of comminsion now. :confused::spin:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Well since you have a shop I am assuming you have some mechanical aptitude. So, you will need to remove the top mount intercooler. 3 12mm? maybe 14mm bolts and two hoses (BPV and throttle body). Remove the heat shield on the turbo 5 10mm bolts. Remove downpipe 5 14mm bolts and two on the exhaust flange under the car. This will give you access to the back side of the turbo. Take a look at the compressor wheel. If it has smacked the housing a few times it most likely sent metal into your cylinders. If this happened you are most likely hosed for a new short block. Then the real fun begins.

 

Good luck! Use Google to search with LGT.com at the end of your query. Much better then the sites search capability's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck! Use Google to search with LGT.com at the end of your query. Much better then the sites search capability's.

 

google, "site:legacygt.com 'your search criteria' "

 

Also, if for some reason you think the motor is still good to use, you MUST:

 

-drop the oil pan and clean/inspect for debris

-replace the oil cooler

-remove/replace the 4 banjo bolt oil filters

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

the GT's start around 1600 in the 05 manual.

 

 

 

There's a sticky at the top of the powertrain forum about this.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

google, "site:legacygt.com 'your search criteria' "

 

Also, if for some reason you think the motor is still good to use, you MUST:

 

-drop the oil pan and clean/inspect for debris

-replace the oil cooler

-remove/replace the 4 banjo bolt oil filters

 

Ahh this car has turned into a nightmare!:eek: Well the engine will run, just has the annoying rattle. Im hoping that all I have to do is change the turbo and what you have listed above. Honestly I have never dealt with turbo vehicles. Only have I had supercharged or built NA motors. Where do you recommend getting the parts from? Preferably somewhere that is not going to rape my wallet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't start the engine again until you have removes the down pipe and checked the turbo for shaft play.

 

It may be to late already, the turbo will put metal into the oil system.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't start the engine again until you have removes the down pipe and checked the turbo for shaft play.

 

It may be to late already, the turbo will put metal into the oil system.

 

This.

 

1000X This.

 

If you think the engine will run, I would remove everything, clean as much as you can, then do a compression/leakdown test and go from there.

 

Until proven otherwise, it is safe to assume you have large chunks (relatively large of course) floating around in your oil. Of course, this assumption is based on the assumption that your turbo is in fact toast. Check that first.

 

 

EDIT:

for future reference, here are the banjos I talked about: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't start the engine again until you have removes the down pipe and checked the turbo for shaft play.

 

It may be to late already, the turbo will put metal into the oil system.

 

Awesome... well the only time I started the car was to get it onto the trailer and out of the fast on coming traffic. So how much am I looking at repair cost wise?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This.

 

1000X This.

 

If you think the engine will run, I would remove everything, clean as much as you can, then do a compression/leakdown test and go from there.

 

Until proven otherwise, it is safe to assume you have large chunks (relatively large of course) floating around in your oil. Of course, this assumption is based on the assumption that your turbo is in fact toast. Check that first.

 

The main problem is, due to my job and school I have very limited time to work on the car. Maybe a weekend every three weeks if I am lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This.

 

1000X This.

 

If you think the engine will run, I would remove everything, clean as much as you can, then do a compression/leakdown test and go from there.

 

Until proven otherwise, it is safe to assume you have large chunks (relatively large of course) floating around in your oil. Of course, this assumption is based on the assumption that your turbo is in fact toast. Check that first.

 

 

EDIT:

for future reference, here are the banjos I talked about: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html

Do you think if I run fresh oil in it with a new filter one or two times then drain, it will get most of the metal out? I am looking for some low cost ways to fix this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're going to do anything, do an "oil system flush". Not seafoam, or the like, but a true flush....I'm not sure how it actually works, just heard of it.

 

What will happen if you try and do the 'fresh oil and filter' thing, is the metal will do damage long before you get it out.

 

 

again, this is all assuming your turbo is blown up. It is possible you caught it before your turbo sent metal shards into the engine.....based on what you said ('noise and no boost'), it is not likely, but possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In most cases that only gives you a false sense of security. If the turbo went you need to pull the pan, and clean it, replace the oil cooler.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In most cases that only gives you a false sense of security. If the turbo went you need to pull the pan, and clean it, replace the oil cooler.

 

Best place to get the oil cooler? Also cleaning the oil pan, just drop the pan and look for particles, then clean it with a degreaser?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get an OEM cooler from Subaru....not that expensive. weluvsubaruparts.com or subarugenuineparts.com

 

And yes, just clean as much as you can, where ever you can. There will be lots of baffling, so you'll need to get around those.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get an OEM cooler from Subaru....not that expensive. weluvsubaruparts.com or subarugenuineparts.com

 

And yes, just clean as much as you can, where ever you can. There will be lots of baffling, so you'll need to get around those.

 

Okay, so lets get this straight. Take off downpipe, check turbo, replace turbo, replace oil cooler, and clean oil pan?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, so lets get this straight. Take off downpipe, check turbo, replace turbo, replace oil cooler, and clean oil pan?

 

No.

 

Check the turbo, and see how bad the damage is. If it looks like this, or the turbo looks like that, you're gonna need a whole new engine.

 

If nothing looks terribly amiss, you'll need to drain the oil and drop the pan. This can be achieved by undoing the intake manifold's connections to the sides/rest of the car, then unbolting the engine mounts from the crossmember, and lifting the engine up a bit to get access to all the pan bolts. You'll probably want to drain the coolant while you're at it, since the coolant lines run to the oil cooler as well.

 

Get your oil analyzed using approved tribology lab, like Blackstone. They'll let you know if there's any excess metals in there from your turbo, or your bearings, and it's a great tool to ascertain the overall health of your engine.

 

If it comes back clean, you got lucky.

 

If it doesn't, well. . . Pick where you wanna spend your college tuition. :)

 

Knowing first, whether or not you've got turbo shards in your engine/oil is really only the first step. Simply replacing the turbo, oil cooler and pan isn't going to solve any long-term problems; if there are indeed excess metals in your oil, the only way to ensure that they do not contaminate the rest of your parts (read: kill your new turbo), is to replace the shortblock and have your heads serviced.

 

Good luck! We're all pulling for you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No.

 

Check the turbo, and see how bad the damage is. If it looks like this, or the turbo looks like that, you're gonna need a whole new engine.

 

If nothing looks terribly amiss, you'll need to drain the oil and drop the pan. This can be achieved by undoing the intake manifold's connections to the sides/rest of the car, then unbolting the engine mounts from the crossmember, and lifting the engine up a bit to get access to all the pan bolts. You'll probably want to drain the coolant while you're at it, since the coolant lines run to the oil cooler as well.

 

Get your oil analyzed using approved tribology lab, like Blackstone. They'll let you know if there's any excess metals in there from your turbo, or your bearings, and it's a great tool to ascertain the overall health of your engine.

 

If it comes back clean, you got lucky.

 

If it doesn't, well. . . Pick where you wanna spend your college tuition. :)

 

Knowing first, whether or not you've got turbo shards in your engine/oil is really only the first step. Simply replacing the turbo, oil cooler and pan isn't going to solve any long-term problems; if there are indeed excess metals in your oil, the only way to ensure that they do not contaminate the rest of your parts (read: kill your new turbo), is to replace the shortblock and have your heads serviced.

 

Good luck! We're all pulling for you!

Awesome, I am about to give up on this car if it cost more than $1,500 to repair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome, I am about to give up on this car if it cost more than $1,500 to repair.

 

If a new motor is needed, would this be okay?http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/191093215322?lpid=82

I have honestly never messed around with boxer engines before. In my area it is mostly muscle, diesels, nissan, or hondas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If a new motor is needed, would this be okay?http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/191093215322?lpid=82

I have honestly never messed around with boxer engines before. In my area it is mostly muscle, diesels, nissan, or hondas.

 

No.

The motor should be:

EJ255

EJ257

 

JDM motors need their own ECU among many other things. That's $$$

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome, I am about to give up on this car if it cost more than $1,500 to repair.

 

TL;DR Just give up now, then. Sell it to someone who is willing and able to maintain it.

 

Used turbo $650-$1100 (Top price is brand new from Subaru)

Oil Cooler: $250

Oil Pump: $150

Oil Pickup: $20-$170

Gaskets n Stuff: ~$150

 

That's a little over a K right there, and while you're in the middle of it all, you'll discover stuff that needs fixing/replacing that will also cost $$. (Hoses, etc.)

 

I don't know who told you these are good cars for students on a budget, but, they're not. As a general rule, if the parts come from Ebay, they're not good for your car.

 

And again, this is all contingent upon whether or not your turbo has spit impeller shards into your engine. New SB from Subaru, plus gasket kit is $2081 shipped. (At least, that's what I paid ~>3months ago.)

 

Seriously, I'm crossing my fingers for you, kiddo. But, from what you've described, it doesn't sound good. Just as a reference, I'm in the middle of a motor replacement, and with all the parts I've bought to replace old/worn stuff, plus the new shortblock, gasket kit, headwork, turbo, etc, etc, etc. . It adds up. I've just about bought my car twice. YMMV.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TL;DR Just give up now, then. Sell it to someone who is willing and able to maintain it.

 

Used turbo $650-$1100 (Top price is brand new from Subaru)

Oil Cooler: $250

Oil Pump: $150

Oil Pickup: $20-$170

Gaskets n Stuff: ~$150

 

That's a little over a K right there, and while you're in the middle of it all, you'll discover stuff that needs fixing/replacing that will also cost $$. (Hoses, etc.)

 

I don't know who told you these are good cars for students on a budget, but, they're not. As a general rule, if the parts come from Ebay, they're not good for your car.

 

And again, this is all contingent upon whether or not your turbo has spit impeller shards into your engine. New SB from Subaru, plus gasket kit is $2081 shipped. (At least, that's what I paid ~>3months ago.)

 

Seriously, I'm crossing my fingers for you, kiddo. But, from what you've described, it doesn't sound good. Just as a reference, I'm in the middle of a motor replacement, and with all the parts I've bought to replace old/worn stuff, plus the new shortblock, gasket kit, headwork, turbo, etc, etc, etc. . It adds up. I've just about bought my car twice. YMMV.

 

Well I will look at the turbo and post a pic. If its not a to bad fix, ill repair the car. Money is not an issue honestly, just like anyone else don't want to spend a fortune.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on what's wrong with it.

 

Your brevity leads me to believe that the engine is toast, no?

 

If that's the case -- $3k-4500, though you'll likely have to dip lower to get a buyer to take it off your hands. This is also market dependent; in some areas of the nation, Subarus just don't sell very well. ie, The South, East Coast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use