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Brake Squeal


j255c

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I have 8500 miles on my car, and under moderate to heavy breaking between 40-30mph theres a noticable break squeal. Subaru just did my normal 7500 oil change break inspection, but i feel like they didn't even bother checking hte brakes. Does anyone else have this problem? it doesn't really make sense to me that the rotors or pads have worn out.

 

Thanks

Jeff

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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without actually hearing it, here are some possibilities...if you have break dust build up, that can cause the squeal. Another thing I have done to all my cars is to pull the pads out, and adhear a brake "anti-squeal" adhesive to the back of the pad... Often times, the copper plate that is profided works well, but not perfect. This is an additional buffer that is made for this situation.

 

I use the stuff seen in the picture, not my picture, found on the web, but I just buy it at Auto Zone. I have used it on all of my cars, and never have a squeal problem.

 

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0310vet_baerweb06_s.jpg

 

Here is a link to a write up I did for my audi allroad on changing out brake pads and rotors...and you can see the red stuff in there and where it goes....

http://forums.audiworld.com/allroad/msgs/74256.phtml

 

and a pic from that link to show the relative orientation of the red stuff in the set up.

 

http://www.rmcb5.com/albums/album11/brk17_JPG.jpg

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Dust build up is a killer and will make the brake squeal big time. A few squirts with the hose inside the brake housing should get rid of the build up. Then a couple of vhard stops should move the rest, then hit it with the hose again. That should keep it clear till the next time u wash the GT. But be mindful to wash that area everytime u wash the GT.

Ada///M.

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+1 on the lube, just put on my new shoes.....no squeaks at all......got 2 packets of the .99 cent brake lube from Autozone. 1 packet for the rear, 1 packet for the front....good to go.....

 

And I just drove back from NY, my wheels are black from the brake dust, still no squeaks....LUCKY ME :D

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  • 2 weeks later...
Another solution is to make sure your pads are bed-in properly. Much of the noise from pads/rotors is because there isn't an effective layer of pad laid down on the rotor. Ideally, the pad is actually in contact with the pad material deposited uniformly on the rotor...not on the iron of the rotor itself. When the pad layer wears off, contact with the iron sometimes starts to cause a squealing. This is even more noticeable as you get more aggressive with the friction materials. Please check out this link from our website to learn more about bedding in brakes: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/bedincontents.htm
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i've done the bed in process (but honestly only one set of 10 (60-10 tops)....i did the anti-squeal almost everywhere!...between the pad/inner shim/outer shim and calipers on the fronts and between the pad/shim and calipers on the backs...(just the front underside of each caliper, not the piston side!)....

 

My squeals are at low speed...coming to a stop, just barely creeping....

 

Hey JRitt, you think another session of bedding in the brakes would solve this?!?...its been about 2weeks since the first session...

 

any help would be greatly appreciated...

~Sucka-Duck~
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Dust build up is a killer and will make the brake squeal big time. A few squirts with the hose inside the brake housing should get rid of the build up. Then a couple of vhard stops should move the rest, then hit it with the hose again. That should keep it clear till the next time u wash the GT. But be mindful to wash that area everytime u wash the GT.

Ada///M.

 

I did this Monday and the noise was gone. For about ten miles. :(

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SnoDork,

You may want to try another bed-in cycle. A lot of the noise issues that we see depend on driving habits. Poeple that tend to bed-in their brakes, and then brake very lightly during daily driving wear the pad transfer layer off rather quickly. The cold pads are typically more abrasive, and they slowly scrape off the the transfer layer. They remain in abrasive mode, rather than adherent mode. This is what happens with my fiancee when she's driving on an aggressive street compound. I bed it in, and she wears it off in a couple of weeks...then I re-bed. She never gets the brakes hot enough to transfer any pad material.

 

Someone who gets on the brakes harder and drives more aggressively around town or for fun usually maintains the pad transfer layer longer. When they're really heating the pads up (canyon run, etc.), they're even adding to the transfer layer. They won't have to do a 'formal' bed-in as frequently.

 

There are always going to be tradeoffs with any friction compound. A pad is typically designed for a specific purpose, or set of conditions. In general, a race pad is designed to have a lot of bite when heated, and a very high max operating temp. On the street cold, it has little bite, eats rotors, and makes dust. A street pad is the opposite. It has more bite cold, but falls apart with massive heat. It doesn't dust as much typically, and it's easier on the rotors. Here's something we put together on the topic a while back. You have to choose which of these issues is important to you, and then make a pad choice.

 

Pad Choice

 

Many of our customers ask us, "Which brake pads are best for my vehicle?" Unfortunately, there is no single clear-cut answer. Different driving conditions require different types of friction, as there is no single pad that works optimally under all conditions. There will always be a compromise in at least one area of operation. You need to ask yourself which of the following issues are most important to your particular driving style.

 

 

  • COLD STOPPING PERFORMANCE. How well does the pad grip on the first stop when the system is at ambient temperature?
  • HOT STOPPING PERFORMANCE. How does the pad react at higher temperatures, such as on a road course? Rotor and pad temperatures typically exceed 1000 F on road course
  • PAD LIFE. How long will the pads last in a given driving environment?
  • ROTOR LIFE. How aggressive is the pad on the rotor, and will it groove the surface?
  • NOISE. Does the pad squeal? High performance pads will always have some noise.
  • DUST. How much dust does the pad generate, and how easy is it to clean?
  • COST. Is the pad affordable compared to how it performs?

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I agree with JR...but one area I have also noticed that some molykote needs to be applied is the actual pad carrier. I applied some caliper quiet goop underneath the pad carrier after I cleaned it, and that seems to have made one of the wheels stop squeaking. I didn't do the other three, as this was just a test, to see if it fixed the issue. So far, the one wheel does not squeek any more, and the other three are prone to low speed squeeking. I plan to fix this, by taking off all the carriers (both top and bottom) for each caliper, applying molykote, or other, (minimal is better) and then putting the carriers back on. I think that this should do it, so let's hope my experiment works. I will let you all know the outcome.
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If you are going to be doing ONLY street driving, anti-squeal goop is probably okay. However, if you are going to really push the car or take it on a racetrack, you are going to have a big mess on your hands when that stuff cooks. It will bubble, ooze, and generally make a giant, sticky mess. Cooking that stuff all over your rotors is not going to help stop the car...so...consider yourselves warned. :p As I said though, for normal driving, the anti-squeal goop will be fine.

I generally don't recommend this because a customer says, "nah, I'm not going to take the car on the track." Next week, guess what he does...:lol:

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Heh...yeah...definately would not want to do that if anyone is going to the track. Plus, street compound pads on the track would basically melt away by the end of the day, anyway. True track pads for track days, and no goop. That's the way to go...and given it doesn't take much time to change the pads, it's not all that of an issue, for people tracking the cars.
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  • 2 weeks later...

So, I attempted to fix the 'squealing' again, as it was only coming from the rear. I took off both calipers, cleaned them with brake parts cleaner, applied some caliper quiet solution, and put everything back together. They were quiet for about 10 minutes. It's driving me up a wall..here...with all the noise from the bobcats. Otherwise, they work just fine, alongside the lines...and fluid.

 

Anyone have any other resolutions? I would love for it to go away....? PLEASE?????

 

*goes and lays down in a corner...crying in desperation! PLEASE!?!?!?!?!?*

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The same exact stuff that is shown in the picture above. They were bedded in properly...everything is torqued down to spec...and everything else looks good. No glazing on the pads, not much dust on the rotors, from what I can tell...so, not sure what's next on the list to check.

 

I cleaned everything pretty thoroughly...applied the caliper quite stuff, that I got at autozone (the red stuff above was applied when I fisrt put the brake pads on)...and tightened it all back up. Still get some squeaking at very low speeds. Maybe the rotors need to be replaced? That's the last thing I can think of...before I go insane!

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Hmmm strange, I just bought 2 $0.99 packets they keep behind the counter...used the caliper paint kit cleaner to clean the plates off........

 

I really am at a loss here.......I have TONS of brake dust and still no squeak'n....just weird...I hope you figure it out...I'd go nutz.....

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trust me man, I am at the point where I am about to jump outta the car...hehe! NOT! But, you get the drift...almost ripping what's left of my hair out! I might just have to give everything a thorough cleaning, when I change out the rear lines, one of these days.

 

Could it be the 'play' in the brake pedal? Anyone?

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trust me man, I am at the point where I am about to jump outta the car...hehe! NOT! But, you get the drift...almost ripping what's left of my hair out! I might just have to give everything a thorough cleaning, when I change out the rear lines, one of these days.

 

Could it be the 'play' in the brake pedal? Anyone?

 

Manish, also remember the rear pads probably take quite a bit more time to heat up (during bedding)... like JRitt mentioned... this could provide less transfer material and contribute to the noise?

 

Try re-bedding with slightly more aggressive heating cycles.....

Free Sonax Cleaner Deal

http://www.brakeswap.com

Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol...

Great service. No bumping required :icon_tong!

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Well, just an update, for you folks...I finally got rid of the noise, for the most part. I spent the day cleaning everything from caliper, to pad, to pad carrier, to rotor. Lubed them all up with some grease, put everything back together, and it's all good. I did have to remove the shims/backing plate, though...as per advice from another member on the board....thanks Subietonic!

 

All in all...a little bit of squeak...once they are really warmed up, and you apply the brakes at the point where the car is almost at a stop. Nothing like it was before...and trust me, it's SO much better. I drove the car for a good 20 minutes or so...locally, and on the highway...and did not notice any noise as there was before. It was SO bad earlier, that I had to close my windows, just so that I could have silence. Now, I can leave all 4 windows open, and drive around town, with little to no issue. I'm happy now...rant over.

 

Enjoy.

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Congrats on fixing that squeal. There are a few things that can make a driver go absolutely bonkers, and that definitely includes brake squeal...

 

Thanks...and yeah, I totally feel ya with that. The noise was driving me crazy man...especially during rush hour traffic, when I was at low speeds. I could hear the squeal so bad that I had to close all the windows...even with the cooler weather. But, so far, so good...and I hope it stays that way. :D

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  • 10 months later...

bringing it back.. i have enormous amounts of break squeal w/ my carbotechs i never put any type of grease or lube on the pads so im assuming i just need to buy some and apply? yes? Thanks for your help

 

-Jeff

06 TB EVO IX SE stock turbo monster subaru hater :lol:
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