rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Hey all, Finally got the legacy all back together. Found out quite a few of the valves were bad, so Suba Performance in Denver replaced all of them with SS Brian Crower valves and completely serviced the heads back to spec. While the engine was apart I replaced the water pump, timing belt, lots of seals, gaskets, new rubber hoses and o-rings, replaced the turbo with a BNR-16G, threw on a perrin uppipe and inlet hose. Naturally all fresh fluids and whatnot as well. I drove the car as is into the garage where it was torn apart (engine running) but now the car won't start. Car cranks over fine, tries to fire (not just a dry crank) but never succeeds in running. Re-checked the timing and that was spot on, checked to verify fuel was coming in. triple checked everything through the engine to make sure I didn't miss anything plugging back in etc. Had a friend come and he checked a few things, also verified that the coilpacks were plugged in the right order (anyone have a picture of the orientation just for kicks?) Only thing I'm missing is the sensor on the oem uppipe is gone because the perrin unit doesn't have a bung for that. Need to grab a resistor but that shouldn't affect the start. The gas in the car is pretty old but it did run beforehand. I will want to get that out but not sure how to do it unless I use a tiny hose to siphon half a tank. Any thoughts/suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silen7guardian Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 If the fuel has been sitting, then mixing fuel stabilizer with a gallon of good gas and pouring that into the car might be somewhat helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 The EGT probe won't make it not run but it will throw a CEL. Try to reset ECU and see if that changes anything. How did you verify fueling? Only two things will keep the car from running: no fuel or no spark. (simplified, I know there is more to it). Simply put we need more info. -Check what codes are stored / pending -Verify fuel pump in working (check fuse, listen for whirr below rear seat) -Are test mode connectors connected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silen7guardian Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Is the crank position sensor good/connected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 How long has the fuel been sitting? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 You know what worries me is that there is no CEL. Never plugged in the test connectors but the car hasn't thrown any codes yet and I did a clear to see if it would do anything. But I only have one of those cheap code readers fairly limited in its capabilities Haven't verified that its getting spark yet It's just odd as it was running before. I did replace the plugs but that was about it. Don't know if that sensor is good now but it worked beforehand and yes it is plugged in. The car sat for about 3 years, I have no idea how old the gas is though as I never put anything in there. Fuel pump is working we checked that too, you can hear it run. Just pulled a fuel line and checked that way to make sure it was coming through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1fast4by Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Whoa! 3+ year old fuel? Get that stuff outta there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Possibly lol... Is there some special way to get the gas out? I bought a fairly small hose to stuff down there but it gets jammed about 8 inches in. Does the filler hose get that small or is there some anti-siphon thing going on in there nvm I see there are a pair of drain plugs under there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 3 years!?!?! Yeah, that fuel is now water. Flush it out. The fastest way is to disconnect the fuel line by the intake manifold, then connect a hose to the line and place the hose in a large bucket. Turn the iginition to the "On" position and it should start pumping it out. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Doesn't the fuel pump only come on for a couple seconds to pressurize the lines? Will it actually empty the tank or just do a little at a time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 It should stay on, as long as the line doesn't pressurize. drain it until the fuel gauge drops down to the Red mark. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I had a similar issue when I changed my timing belt. It would keep turning and turning and turning but never start, so I pulled the belt and redid it, even though it looked like it was right. I believe the black clips are for rears, and other color is front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Great thanks good to know, I have the white pair up front, black connectors behind. Hmm i guess if the fuel deal doesn't work I can pull the belt but I'm pretty sure its right on, checked that a few times just to be sure before and after the engine was in the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Did you use a cam adjust tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 No, what is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 ??? are you trolling me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 A cam bolt, it goes inside center of the cam and you can rotate the cam to where it needs to be. If you did not rotate the cams for the belt, its probably wrong. Looks like this, but this is not it! Just a reference http://www.autotoolworld.com/Assenmacher-VW-5220-Camshaft-Adjuster-Socket_p_126252.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 No... you mean a cam lock? To help with timing? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Company23-506-Subaru-Cam-Lock-Tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Ah I see what you mean. Well naturally yea I had to move the cams when I put them back. Tried to roughly line them as stated in the service manual and then i moved them appropriately with the cam pulley installed so everything was in its proper position before installing the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 yep! Just making sure, lol. But if all else looks well, and it keeps turning and turning, recheck the belt. I stared at an engine bay for 3 hours before I decided to redo it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Awesome well I'll check the gas first of course lol thats much easier then give that a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 You should be able to pull the fuel feed hose turn the key to on and fuel pump should pump all the gas out into a gas can. 3 years...or you kidding us... Next question, who put the heads together ? See my click here link for pictures if you need. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rizzors25 Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Alright that works I'll be dropping by today to play around. Suba performance in Denver did all the head work but i did the final assembly ie installing the heads, cams etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I wonder if the valves are shimed correctly ? with no compression, you will not get the car to start. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 It should stay on, as long as the line doesn't pressurize. drain it until the fuel gauge drops down to the Red mark. no ! its one for 3 seconds at key on .. then it stays on when the ecm has crank and cam signal you can hot wire the pump under the back seat super easy and pump the gas out. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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