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2008 Subaru Outback XT Limited with Manual 5-speed Transmission in Brilliant Silver Metallic.

Purchased in May of 2011 with 55k on the Odo. Currently at 100k as of 4/15.

 

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig8812a.png

 

I also keep a pretty ridiculous/meticulous excel record of fill-ups, maintenance and modifications; but that'll probably get me mocked if I show that around.

 

Electronics/Tuning

Duralast Gold battery

Tactrix 2.0

PLX SM/AFR (and DM-5 AFR Gauge)

FDM AUX/Switch plate (center console, green test connector switch)

 

Engine/Intake/Fuel

DW65c fuel pump

New OEM fuel filter/housing (100k)

DW 850cc Injectors

OEM TB hose

Air Pump Delete via Kstech plates

Grimmspeed Crank Pulley

OEM Turbo Banjo Filter checked/replaced

 

Transmission/Drivetrain

Tranny/Differential Fluid changed for Extra-S

Cobb 5MT Shifter Bushings

GroupN Transmission Mount

GroupN Transmission Bushings

 

Wheels/Tires

04 STI BBS Silver wheels

Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 225/55ZR17

Primitive Racing 3mm Wheel Spacers (rear only)

 

Turbo/Exhaust

Ceramic coated and DEI Ti wrapped OEM Manifolds, Crosspipe and Uppipe

Ceramic coated and DEI Ti wrapped Cobb Catted Downpipe

Perrin Turbo Heatshield

 

Brakes/Suspension

Centric Premium Rotors

Hawk HPS Pads

New OEM hoses

AVO Rear Swaybar Mount Brace

JDM OEM 19mm Hollow Rear Swaybar (w\ JDM OEM bushings)

Moog Sway Bar Endlinks (Front and Rear)

 

Interior/Exterior

FDM Cubby Pod Rev 3

FDM Clock mount Rev 3

OEM Hitch

STI Alternator Cover

Redline Hood Struts

 

 

Purchased but not installed:

GrimmSpeed EBCS

VF52/37 Hybrid Turbo w/billet wheel

DW FPHWK

JDM OEM V8 STI TS Header and Uppipe (cleaned and painted silver)

JDM OEM TS Turbo Heatshields (lower, upper, side and mount)

LGT Calipers (Front and Rear, rebuilt, satin black)

Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads

JDM "TGV"s

Mamba Tek adjustable Wastegate Actuator - modified

 

 

 

Planned

BTS-5056/58J kit

FDM Honeycomb Grill (F-150 grill maybe?, or FDM?)

DIY aluminum/coroplast full bellypan

08+ STI Intake/TMIC conversion - Cause cheaper than Aftermarket TMIC

 

 

 

 

REMOVED MODS

PLX Boost and DM-5 Boost Gauge (fried the sensor module... :( )

Walbro 255 lph (loud, requires modding of fuel pump housing)

Alternator Sense Diode Mod (increased alternator ~0.5V, caused battery boiling maybe)

AVO TB hose (didn't fit and the OEM does well enough, part not worth getting)

Hogzhaust (previous owner-installed. rusted muffler flanges and had to get new gaskets...)

Technafit Stainless brake lines (had to modify, poor fit all around)

05-07 STI FPR (didn't fix my fueling issues)

GrimmSpeed Master Cylinder Brace (not sure it does enough/anything for the $ for a DD)

AVO 20mm Rear Sway Bar - contacted drivers side muffler flange over bumps

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Edited by Flinkly
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FDM Cubby Pod w/ AFR and Boost gauges

 

Gone thru a few revisions, but the pic is the current rev.

 

Rev 1 incorporated the AFR and Boost gauge, plus 2 mini-usb plugs. one was for the tactrix 2.0 and the other was AFR/wideband sensor output. I could've had one USB plug and a usb hub in the dash, which I've done now, but rushed the design. cords hanging over the stick made for messy road logging and an annoyed significant other.

 

Rev 2 incorporated a support bracket on the back to attach to the clock housing, whish is a huge improvement. also got rid of both usb plugs and outputted my STL file with smaller chords, so it made a nicer looking FDM part.

 

And the cubby's been closable since the beginning, which was a requirement of my significant other. not that I've ever let her close it. the gauges have pointed me to a few issues already, one where I popped the hood, re-attached a hose to the IM, and was done before the light turned green. BAM!

 

Original thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cubby-plx-guages-install-169217.html

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Edited by Flinkly
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Alternator Sense Diode mod

 

 

 

Parts:

  • Diode Digi-Key PN: 10A02-TDICT-ND
    • 100V 10A general purpose diode ( have 8 left... ;) )

    [*]Napa mini fuse holder

    [*]Sacrificial mini fuse

Followed this DIY: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f115/alexs-pbp-03-x-avo-turbo-kit-70917/index16.html#post1246541

 

Didn't measure change, can't feel it, but didn't seem to hurt!

 

 

 

EDIT:

 

I've since removed this MOD, since it appears to have been over doing it, electricity wise, for my battery and causing it to boil over and corroded my battery terminal. since removing it, I haven't had any issues.

 

I had completely cleaned (and soaked in baking soda) the parts in question, and coated in grease to protect them, and it still came back.

 

So all in all, don't do it. fuel pump wiring mod and other such things are a much better option for improving electronics.

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Edited by Flinkly
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STI BBS Wheel purchase and Plasti-dip peeling

 

PLEASE, if you plasti-dip something, do a lot of coats, apply evenly, and clean the part before spraying. It has been a huge pain to peel the black plasti-dip off everything but the face of the wheels (where the original owner did a decent job). He also didn't peel the original stickers, among a general cleaning. It's strange to think that others don't respect these nice wheels as much. Forged, 16 lbs, great looking wheels, in our bolt pattern and general offset.

 

So after peeling and cleaning, there's still a lot of refinishing that needs doing. 2 of the wheels have some major paint chipping on the face from what looks like gravel impacts, and 2 wheels have some curb rash. Purchased 2 cans of Wurth silver wheel paint, supposedly a good match for the original paint, and am about to go to town with a file and sandpaper to get things smoothed out. some light filler, primer, Wurth silver, and probably Duplicolor clear. I'll try to post the continuation of this process as I move along.

 

for now, here's some pictures of the before, during and after peeling process. still more cleaning to do before moving to the actual refinishing. But boy are they going to be great when I'm done...

 

On a side note, I was going to have them "professionally" refinished, but the local shops were quoting about 1k for fixing the light damage and repaint. since they're worth about 1.2k max, I opted DIY.

 

Here's a fantastic, detailed walkthrough of what i'm going to attempt to do myself. It's even with STI BBS wheels!

 

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/149801-fix-refinish-oem-bbs-wheels-extremely-detailed-10-step-guide.html

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rebuilt VF52

 

it's a VF52 rebuilt by sixstarspeed with a few upgrades. new OEM profile billet compressor wheel with ETT, ceramic coated turbine housing, perrin blanket, and ported/polished wastegate. and of course new journal bearings/CHRA and non-OEM oil line.

 

http://6starspeed.com/vf60tu.html

 

currently doing some scheduled maintenance and checkout before install and tune, but here's how it is before install:

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  • 3 weeks later...

FDM Clock Bezel

 

Got tired of not being able to read the clock if the sun was out, due to the crazy reflective and sloped surface, so I decided to redo it. I had ideas of adding switches for the green test connector and some other mods, but decided not to so that people wouldn't try them out. keep those out of sight.

 

My first revision, I planned on keeping the buttons on the front, and re-using the button parts. after installing it in the car, it just wasn't nice looking, and decided to redo some other things that I could have done better, as well as move to a clean front face.

 

The second revision fixed all the things I seemed to have missed in my first rev, but somehow my CAD was off with respect to the clock and the opening I had for it. since there's no reason to not do it right, I redid it just to center the opening to the clock.

 

I also wired the board for a single switch in the rear of the clock case. it's a toggle switch that wants to stay in the center/off position, and to the right is "up", to the left is "down". so whenever I pull the battery, i'll have to pull my cubby to reset the clock. not a big deal to be for the clean looking new clock bezel. i'll admit i'm already thinking of relocating the switch to the glovebox or center console (along with my ECU test switch).

 

The FDM cubby pod post shows my rev 1 clock bezel installed without the smoked and red plexi pieces (all our digital pieces have a red plexi piece to change the green display into the "grey" display you see). the first picture below shows the original part, rev 1 and 2. the second picture shows the wire I soldered to the thru holes for common and the "up" and "down" switches.

 

The third picture shows the final product installed in the car.

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  • 3 weeks later...

FDM (or at least that's the plan) Hood Duct

 

So I started designing it some time ago, but just recently got the hood flange of the duct 3d printed to check my work. Didn't take into account the shrinkage from 3d printing as much as I should have, but otherwise it looks fantastic.

 

The plan is to make a new duct and interface for the AVO TMIC I have installed. I don't use my engine cover, so the OEM duct leaves a lot to be desired.

 

More updates to come...

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Can you give me more details on the Techna fit lines? I ordered these last week (the OBXT specific ones) to install with my upcoming LGT brake conversion/upgrade.

 

What made you decide to go with the VF52 over 16/18g?

 

Thanks!

Edited by Rhitter
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Interesting that you had an issue with technafit lines. I installed the front ones on my last car ('05 LGT wagon) and they were great. Later on, I had Chris at Technafit send me some spare parts that I needed and he did it completely for free--great service.

 

Sorry to hear your experience was different.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Can you give me more details on the Techna fit lines?

 

Well, my first issue was ordering thru THMotorsports.

 

They do have cheap prices, and I've ordered several things without problems till this, but they lack decent customer service(there is a little) and sometimes just don't follow thru with the correct parts. Too big of a company with no attention to the details.

 

Order from our venders here if you want the right parts, great service, support future development, and continued offerings. (Underdog Motorsports, Infamous Performance, etc.)

 

So THMotorsports sold kits labeled as Techna Fit from a supplier that used to make them for Techna Fit. They sent that info to me about 9 months after I ordered them. Due to the bad fit, I requested a refund, and they said no.

 

I had previously complained to Techna Fit directly before THMotorports informed me of their known substitution of non-Techna Fit parts. They informed me, in a nutshell, that they had never heard these complaints and would offer no assistance.

 

They were supposedly the exact same as the actual Techna Fit parts, but might not be. But I had three issues.

 

  • First was that the connection to the hard lines no longer had retention to the "holding tabs" on the chassis. so they just rattle around loosely.

  • Second, the rear lines didn't have a 90 degree bent post on the caliper banjo fitting to locate the part to the caliper. isn't required, but I would have liked to get a direct replacement part/fit. I coulda let this go, but after the other two issues, might as well add this one.

  • Third, the plastic molded over the hose to banjo connection had a huge radius, and was too close to the rear banjo's that I had to dremel them down to be able to even install the lines. There was at least a quarter of an inch of interference between the plastic and the rear of the caliper.

I'll try to find the pictures I emailed around and attach them here. I'll also re-word the first post so as to not put this wholly against Techna Fit.

 

Sent from my XT1028 using Tapatalk

 

EDIT:

 

Found one picture so far, poorly shows two issues.

 

First is the post with a 90 degree bend that locates the rotation of the fitting/banjo to the rear caliper. the bend goes away from the camera, and into a hole on the caliper (at least for my 08 OBXT).

 

Second, the proximity of the molded plastic (molded over the joint of the flexible line to the banjo hard line) to the banjo on the new line, vs. the old line. That molded plastic is thicker than the banjo, and won't allow the banjo to be bolted flat to the rear of the caliper without taking a fair amount of plastic off the line.

 

I apologize for the less than stellar pictures and description. I hope it makes sense. I'll look for the other, better pictures tonight.

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Edited by Flinkly
grammer, rewording, added picture...
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What made you decide to go with the VF52 over 16/18g?

 

I started my turbo search with a few reasons for it, and ended by removing some and adding others.

 

At first, from the info I scoured off the webs and on here, it seemed as if the VF52 had an insignificantly better time to boost than the 16g. This, and my thought of getting a lightly used one at a good price is what started my search for a VF52.

 

After looking for a low mileage VF52 from someone who didn't seem SUPER sketchy, I ended up buying one (only spent a few months looking; CG, NASIOC, here...). On arrival, it didn't have the lack of shaft movement I was led to believe, and was able to get a refund (thank god the seller was a nice guy). Only cost shipping, and some shop time to have a second opinion inspection (I didn't trust my own conclusion, with this being my first turbo inspection). Overall, the compressor wheel was able to touch the housing, which is just too much movement. rebuild woulda cost 400 locally.

 

From there, I started looking at professionally rebuilt. My local rebuilder was kinda a nutjob, so I looked online and found SixStarSpeed. after looking at their offerings, I ended up choosing an OEM profile wheel with ETT, which should widen the compressor profile in both directions (quicker spool, higher top end flow).

 

Just to add, SixStarSpeed has been SUPER helpful with information, opinions, and getting the turbo done right. Great company to work with and talk to about what you really want. They also currently have a 2 year warranty, which I'm sure I won't need, but is assurance to the quality and attention to details they have.

 

The last thing that really sealed the deal is that a VF52 (OEM CHRA/ turbine wheel) mates up "perfectly" with a VF36 P25 Turbine housing. So for ~$250 dollars (not including supporting mods for TS), I can switch over my VF52 to TwinScroll in the future for added fun and modding. I would have done it now, but there's a lot to switch over and now just isn't the time for me. I assume I'll live off the VF52 for a few years, then move over to TS for something a little different for a few years, and then hopefully there will be a newer turbo outback with manual tranny by then (or i'll have to make one).

 

There is a little more to it though, I must admit, for going from an OEM VF52 based system to TS VF52 system. I've calculated about $1700 extra dollars to do it completely. I could have saved maybe $400 of that by getting an AVO DP from the start rather than my current COBB DP, and there is ~$400 in ceramic coating and wrap cost that I've added that isn't necessary either.

 

let me know if you want more info or have more questions... :)

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Not as of yet. Want to get all of them finished, then I'll be getting new tires mounted on them.

 

Right now I've stripped the Plastidip off of all 4, and thoroughly cleaned 2 of them. need to finish cleaning the rest (stickers, brake dust, tar, etc.), do some sanding/filing down of paint chips and curb rash, filler, sand, primer, sand, paint, clearcoat.

 

Got married and spring has hit, so they've been on hold. Also, my Wife's company had a major layoff, so her multi-week trips to china that I used to get all my car work done during won't be happening anymore.

 

I do have this picture I found a while ago of a Brilliant Silver OBXT wearing silver BBS's though. It reminds me that I need to finish the project ASAP, so my girl can finally wear her new shoes.

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Overall, were the the Technafit lines on the long side (compared to OEM)? I have a set of both Goodridge (for LGT) and Technafit (OBXT) right now and the Technafits are about an inch longer.
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  • 3 weeks later...

So a PM question came along of:

 

Why did you decide not to get it (VF52) ported /polished?

 

Well, my wastegate is ported (to help stave off boost creep, but I also use a downpipe with a cat). Turbo Subies sometimes have boost creep issues on OEM wastegates (and maybe non OEM too?) when there's low exhaust backpressure (no cat in DP). So the lesson is to get a catted DP (as well as a reasonably ported wastegate) so as to not have boost problems, as well as saving the environment. A well-tuned EBCS probably helps with boost creep issues as well.

 

But, to really answer the question, I've held off on porting and polishing exhaust components (including the turbo) because the gains just aren't there vs. the cost. And porting and polishing is really to help get that last bit of top end HP, and since my OBXT is my DD, and I don't hit 6.8k very often, I like quick, bottom end torque. Which is what gets sacrificed with exhaust porting (most of the time).

 

Instead I "invest" those dollars in ceramic coating and good heatwrap on the exhaust to speed up flow (and reduce temps in the bay, but that isn't as important, at least to me). Holding heat in your exhaust helps engine efficiency, reduces boost lag, and increases power (you're using the heat energy for turbo "power" instead of letting it leak out of your pipes and slow down your exhaust gas. Gas expands and slows down as it loses heat.)

 

Oh, and I'm pretty into efficiency too, as well as quick power. why not have your cake and eat it too?

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The actually seemed to be slightly shorter once I installed them. I think that's because they have less flex than the oem lines.

 

Just thought I'd post here in case anyone searches for 'Technafit'.

 

I had my OBXT specific lines installed with my Brembo swap. When I got back home from the shop (about 15 miles) and went to clean my wheels I noticed that the front right line was rubbing the rim :eek: and had worn through the clear jacket. I called the shop and they flatbedded my car back to their place. I had some LGT Goodridge lines which they installed and they had no rubbing issues but, my luck, one is leaking at the caliper. Now I am waiting for them to get lines and not getting my car until sometime next week.

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Just thought I'd post here in case anyone searches for 'Technafit'.

 

I had my OBXT specific lines installed with my Brembo swap. When I got back home from the shop (about 15 miles) and went to clean my wheels I noticed that the front right line was rubbing the rim :eek: and had worn through the clear jacket. I called the shop and they flatbedded my car back to their place. I had some LGT Goodridge lines which they installed and they had no rubbing issues but, my luck, one is leaking at the caliper. Now I am waiting for them to get lines and not getting my car until sometime next week.

 

Just to clarify these were the OEM lines that were rubbing? Or the Technafit lines? I honestly don't see how they could rub on the rim. They essentially route the same as the OEM lines.

Edited by Rhitter
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Just to clarify these were the OEM lines that were rubbing? Or the Technafit lines? I honestly don't see how they could rub on the rim. They essentially route the same as the OEM lines.

 

These were the Technafit lines that were rubbing on the rim.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Not yet, been WAY TOO SLOW in working on the car. Currently have quite the to-do list with it, and finishing the BBS wheels is sadly enough at the bottom. My roll to stage 3 is at the top of the list, with general maintenance and engine health check to happen at the same time.

 

I do think I'm going to stage a picture to see what it'll look like, which I hope will boost my desire to get it done.

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